How are both your steering wheels looking after 6 weeks of use so far? I’m about to order the stuff to do mine I think.
David.
Indeed, I've just thrown away 4 cheap height sensors have have ordered 4 replacement Dunlop ones and 2 new heatshields for the fronts as well.
Hoping the rears will arrive tomorrow and then I can see if I can finally get this frigging thing back off the ramp!
David.
I’ve given up with LR parts suppliers now and go direct to Duckworths Land Rover in Market Rasen. They sponsor the L322 forum and offer discounts to members and free shipping on parts.
I ordered genuine height sensors, got them for the price Island 4x4 list them at before VAT, I ordered Thursday, dispatched to me Friday and here Saturday.
David.
StrangeRover wrote:
dhallworth wrote:
StrangeRover wrote:
When I rebuild tractor engines we get them on a PTO dyno and load them down to seat the rings..
Some of those big 6 cylinder tractors sound amazing whilst at full chat on the dyno!
That they do!
The best yet was a Case CVX Puma!!!
That sounded incredible
I'm half seriously looking for a tidy John Deere 3650 just now. Have a notion for one on wide tyres and a wide step with that 6 pot turbo. Total overkill for what we need but it would be fun!
StrangeRover wrote:
When I rebuild tractor engines we get them on a PTO dyno and load them down to seat the rings..
Some of those big 6 cylinder tractors sound amazing whilst at full chat on the dyno!
Clive603 wrote:
Had a quick nooge concerning Jitsi on the Mac and there seem to be some reports of connection problems with it. Time to delve deeper.
Microphone on my laptop works fine with dictation, albeit with some sensitivity to audio level setting, so seems to be an issue with Jitsi not picking it up properly.
I'll see if I can find someone local who knows about such things to do same room set-up testing.
Clive
For some reason Jitsi doesn't like the Mac. Microphone worked for me the last time but didn't this time and the camera didn't work at all. I did a bit of digging around last time and couldn't find any resolutions. My iMac is only 12 months old and works for everything else I use. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the resolution being set to 5K. Not sure tbh.
I joined but had the same problem as Clive. Strange really as it was just the camera that wouldn't play before, this time it was the mic too.
Never had problems with Webex, Zoom or Teams, just seems to be something with Jitsi that doesn't like MacOS.
The new engine we've just fitted from V8 Developments has a high torque cam, bigger valves and gas flowed heads.
We're still in the running in period and I'm being religious with it so I've not done anything daft with it yet so I can't comment for sure... However, Rob at V8 Dev said when pulling away I can use full throttle but not to let it go over 4k. Apparently using full throttle helps to bed the rings in. On the motorway if I drop to 65, pull it into 3rd manually and give it a boot full it certainly feels a LOT more sprightly then the other identical car we've got.
Once it's done it's running in and we've got our 16ft trailer behind it will be the test :)
David.
I posted this in my restoration thread but thought I'd start a separate thread to increase visibility too!
Recently my EAS has started to mess around. It would lower the front when driving, when arriving at home it would have the front left sitting much lower then the rest of the car and it was generally mucking around. I noticed that one of the rear height sensors was broken so I replaced them with a pair from Autodoc. I'd never heard of them before, they were made by a company called Meat and Doria and came with a 2 year warranty. After a bit of Googling, it turns out they're a fairly well respected brand.
I fitted the rears and swapped the fronts from side to side so they were on the other side of the track and it still wasn't right. I changed both height sensors and stupidly I took the cheaper option and bought 2 from eBay. They were just shy of £50 and again came with a 2 year warranty. After fitting them I've spent hours trying to get the car to take a calibration with Testbook. Sometimes it would but the heights would be all wrong after it, other times it just wouldn't calibrate at all.
Tonight, I removed both sensors from the car, connected a meter to them and worked them through the range of movement whilst taking resistance readings. The results are awful, not only are some of the readings miles from where they should be, the jitter on the meter is mad!
Here's the right hand sensor:
You can see with the arm at the top it was 2.0k Ω, then it went to 1.7k Ω, then 2.35k Ω, 2.14k Ω, 2.35k Ω, 2.7k Ω, and 7k Ω. The 7k Ω reading looked horribly wrong so I moved the arm through a cycle and came back to it and it was 2.8k Ω so the readings are all over the place!
Right hand sensor jitter video... (There's almost 1k Ω jitter with the sensor arm in the same position!)
Here's the left hand sensor:
At the top, it started at 1.28k Ω, then 1.8k Ω, 1.5k Ω, 1.76k Ω, 1.98k Ω, 2.37k Ω, 2.52k Ω and 3.7k Ω. I went back to the 2nd position I measured at 1.8k Ω and it then read 1.6k Ω. Again, the readings are all over the place and are very different from the first sensor.
Left hand sensor jitter video... (There's only about 200ohms on this one).
The next video I took was with the sensor sat on my desk, the meter connected to it and me not even touching it at all. The minimum reading with the arm stationary was 4.441kΩ to 5.796kΩ.
Marty measured one of the older style Dunlop sensors this morning, he got a range from 200Ω up to 1.8kΩ with very little jitter!
So, I think the moral of the story is, don't be cheap and don't buy anything other than genuine Dunlop height sensors!
David.
Well, since replacing the lambda sensors this car has been running perfectly. It's much smoother and torquier too so I think they've been knackered for quite a while!
I then started to chase the play in the steering, I replaced the steering box as it had a grumble due to being run out of fluid by the previous owner when the steering pipe burst. I replaced the drag link and track rod and none of it made much difference. In the end I changed the joint between the steering column and steering box and the car feels much better.
I put the old link in the vice and twisted it with a spanner and you could see some flex in the rubber joint on it so I'm fairly convinced it was that causing my wandery steering.
Recently my EAS has started to mess around. It would lower the front when driving, when arriving at home it would have the front left sitting much lower then the rest of the car and it was generally mucking around. I noticed that one of the rear height sensors was broken so I replaced them with a pair from Autodoc. I'd never heard of them before, they were made by a company called Meat and Doria and came with a 2 year warranty. After a bit of Googling, it turns out they're a fairly well respected brand.
I fitted the rears and swapped the fronts from side to side so they were on the other side of the track and it still wasn't right. I changed both height sensors and stupidly I took the cheaper option and bought 2 from eBay. They were just shy of £50 and again came with a 2 year warranty. After fitting them I've spent hours trying to get the car to take a calibration with Testbook. Sometimes it would but the heights would be all wrong after it, other times it just wouldn't calibrate at all.
Tonight, I removed both sensors from the car, connected a meter to them and worked them through the range of movement whilst taking resistance readings. The results are awful, not only are some of the readings miles from where they should be, the jitter on the meter is mad!
Here's the right hand sensor:
You can see with the arm at the top it was 2.0k Ω, then it went to 1.7k Ω, then 2.35k Ω, 2.14k Ω, 2.35k Ω, 2.7k Ω, and 7k Ω. The 7k Ω reading looked horribly wrong so I moved the arm through a cycle and came back to it and it was 2.8k Ω so the readings are all over the place!
Right hand sensor jitter video... (There's almost 1k Ω jitter with the sensor arm in the same position!)
Here's the left hand sensor:
At the top, it started at 1.28k Ω, then 1.8k Ω, 1.5k Ω, 1.76k Ω, 1.98k Ω, 2.37k Ω, 2.52k Ω and 3.7k Ω. I went back to the 2nd position I measured at 1.8k Ω and it then read 1.6k Ω. Again, the readings are all over the place and are very different from the first sensor.
Left hand sensor jitter video... (There's only about 200ohms on this one).
The next video I took was with the sensor sat on my desk, the meter connected to it and me not even touching it at all. The minimum reading with the arm stationary was 4.441kΩ to 5.796kΩ.
Marty measured one of the older style Dunlop sensors this morning, he got a range from 200Ω up to 1.8kΩ with very little jitter!
So, I think the moral of the story is, don't be cheap and don't buy anything other than genuine Dunlop height sensors!
David.
I regularly drop mine down to access height when parking up and have never had an issue with it. The last car we've had 10 years and only replaced the bags when we got it.
I'd have thought that keeping the rubber moving would be better for it than letting it sit in one position for ages.
David.
Yea... those hoses were binned and the originals were refitted.
David.
So far so good. It's not done 200 miles yet though as we're just not going out much.
Comparing it back to back with mine it's quicker and smoother but V8 Developments advised not to go over 4000rpm for the first 1000 miles so I've been behaving with it.
The other car is being a royal pain in the arse at the moment with suspension issues so it's taking my time at the moment.
David.
You don't need to remove the A pillar trims. There's enough flex to get the scuttle out without having to take the pillar trims off.
Make sure and do it whilst the weather is warm though as the plastic gets brittle when it's cold.
David.
Err... good question... I'll have a look through my phone shortly.
Need to finish the LPG off and get the injector pipes finished before I'll grab some properly finished pictures! At the moment they've got bolts in them to stop the vacuum leaks!
David.
I bought a Yuasa HSB334 from Halfords last week.
With a trade card it is £100 exactly, fits the cradle perfectly with the clamp over the top and comes with a 5 year warranty.
I looked at the Hankook ones online but they were only £9 cheaper and they have a years less warranty. I'm also inpatient... The terminals are also in the middle of the battery rather then right at the edge which put me off slightly as I didn't want the cables to be any tighter but that's just a personal thing.
Halfords are excellent when it comes to changing a battery under warranty too so I just gave them my cash this time around.
David.
I noticed that the viscous fan on the car I've put the new engine in locks up a lot more then the fan does on the other VSE. I swapped them around and the behaviour follows the fan rather then the car so I'm going to swap the fan out at some point over the next couple of weeks when I've decided if I'm going new aftermarket or second hand original.
David.
Cheers Gilbert.
Genuine LR ones are around £20 each or you can buy a set of AllMakes ones on eBay for £39.99 for all 4. I'll get it back on the ramp when I've got the other VSE off it and see how bad they are.
David.
And we now have an MOT :)
The new engine must be in fine fettle as it barely registered on the emissions. It drove really well for the 10 miles each way to it's test also.
I got 2 advisories. The ferrule on the front left and front right brake flexi are corroded. Apparently they're nowhere near bad enough to need replacing but he's given me an advisory. Other then that, he said it was a very solid car underneath.
Time to get it taxed and start using it!
David.
If people were having issues, I guess there's no reason not to try Webex or Zoom next time...