I can’t seem to find a genuine Valeo one without spending over 400 quid which I’m not prepared to do.
Looking on the net I cannot find a Nissens one with the right part number for the P38.
Britpart and Bearmach seem to be the easiest ones to get hold of but I’m not sure I trust them enough.
David.
To get the screw out of ours i had to lean against the screw driver with quite a lot of force as it was incredibly tight so I’ve got a feeling it might have cracked when I did that.
I think I’m going to change it for an original type matrix. Just need to find one now as I’m not paying the 400 odd quid that Rimmers want for a genuine one.
David.
I replaced the heater matrix o-rings on the P38 which had just had the new engine fitted to it and I'm still getting a drip at the end of the matrix so I'm assuming I'm going to need to take the dash out and change the whole lot.
I've seen people talking about the Audi heater cores that do away with the o-rings, are they really necessary? Are they more of a hassle to fit?
Would be grateful for any advice that can be given.
Thanks,
David.
I know Mark quite well and have dealt with him a lot over the years.
He is still trading and is very busy, unfortunately, due to COVID he's running with only himself and no other staff so getting hold of him can sometimes be difficult.
David.
I fitted a 3.5mm input to all of my earlier cars and it worked great.
On the later cars I've got a GROM Audio box fitted behind the dashboard which enables hands free calling and bluetooth streaming. They're about £120 but worth every penny.
David.
I put Cross Climate SUV's on mine in August and I'm very pleased with them so far.
David
I can’t remember off the top of my head. It was from Island 4x4 and was around 100 quid plus VAT.
David.
Well, the brand new radiator that was fitted to the VSE started leaking after a few weeks. Annoyingly, it was 4 weeks out of warranty when it started leaking.
Anyway, a new one was duly ordered and fitted and whilst the car was on the ramp I decided to recommission the LPG system that I left disconnected when rebuilding it.
With the manifold removed everything looks nice and clean, no puddles or anything under the other side of it when looking with the bore scope either.
The injector pipes were then fitted and routed.
It was bloody cold in the workshop this evening so I’ve put the rest off until tomorrow.
The LPG reducer has one outlet fitted to it out of the box, the previous reducer was the same and used a Y in the gas feed pipe from the reducer to the injectors. The new reducer has a secondary outlet in the box so I’m going to fit that and then a separate feed pipe to each bank of injectors.
I need to get the software for this LPG ECU downloaded so that I can check that the new reducers temperature sensor is giving the right reading to the ECU and to make sure the pressure is set properly.
Hopefully, by the end of tomorrow it should be running as nicely on LPG as it did prior to the engine being swapped.
David.
I'd guess at crankshaft sensor here too.
There'll be no fault code, however, if you use diagnostics, and try cranking the car you'll not see any rpm whilst cranking.
David.
Interestingly, if you order new washers from Land Rover today, they send you flat washers! I ordered them for a car I bought without any washers on it and the noise was awful and was amazed to find they were just flat repair washers.
David.
If it's not tripping the thermal cut out it should be ok I'd guess.
There's a lot of people who remove it on the Disco 2's due to the problems with rotten pipes and valve block failure though so it's probably not worth it.
I'm asking out of curiosity rather then looking to implement something.
David.
Well, after sending AUTODOC the link to 6 forums and screenshots to several posts on Facebook, they have agreed to refund the cost of postage on the faulty items that they sent me.
The spheres had the hole drilled into them, there weren't any washers on them. Well, not on the stuff from the 80's onwards that I've had. The size of the hole varied depending on the position of the sphere on the car and the model of car it was on, as did the pressure of the Nitrogen in them.
I've had Citroen's for years and still do, including the Activa model I mentioned. It's an interesting system and is actually pretty damn simple when you understand it. It's very handy having the recharging rig, pressure tested and all the related tooling to maintain them as not many places will touch them through fear of cocking it up.
The basic Citroen systems had 6 spheres, the hydractive ones had 7 spheres and the Activa's had 10 spheres.
David.
I was watching a YouTube video that Marty sent me last night where Tiff had the Overfinch P38 on Top Gear.
He referred to the ART system that Overfinch fitted (Active Roll Technology) and then showed a shot of the wheel arch:
You can clearly see a big green ball in the wheel arch which looks exactly like a Citroen sphere that was half filled with Nitrogen for damping.
In the 90's, Citroen had a system that they called "Activa" which used active hydraulic rams instead of drop links to ensure that the Xantia's that it was fitted to didn't body roll. There was never more then half a degree of body roll.
http://www.citroenet.org.uk/passenger-cars/psa/xantia/xantia-5.html
I wonder if Overfinch retrofitted this system to the P38? Top Gear said they charged £9k to do the work so I can't imagine they did it to very many P38's!
Does anyone have any information on this setup? I'm really curious how they did it and how they integrated the Citroen setup onto the car. I won't do it to mine as it's not worth it but I'm really intrigued at what they did and how they did it.
Googling reveals very little unfortunately.
David.
One of them is behaving perfectly, thankfully...
The other one, the one that had the new engine is back in the workshop as the radiator which was brand new developed a bad leak from the middle of the core. We’ve got a new radiator to go in it and I’m going to reinstate the LPG now that it’s just about finished it’s running in process too.
The new engine in the VSE has a torquemax camshaft, bigger valves and gas flowed heads according to the specs we ordered from V8 Developments. When sitting on the motorway at 60-65 and you press the accelerator it does pull better then the standard car. There’s quite a difference. How much of that is down to the modifications I don’t know as it’s impossible to say how worn the camshaft is without stripping it.
I’m tempted to fling a camshaft into the other car and see if it makes a big difference but there’s a lad on the Facebook Group who has Supercharged his which has got me thinking... It’s probably not wise, but life’s a bit boring if you only do what’s wise.
David.
I raised this with PayPal and opened a case but the cases on PayPal are time limited.
Due to the length of time AUTODOC took to acknowledge the fault and refund me, PayPal closed the case and will not reopen it. Nor will they let me open another case.
From now on, I’m only using a credit card when shopping online.
David.
Good afternoon, all!
If anybody is considering ordering parts from AutoDoc, I'd strongly advise against it as when you have problems, their customer service is non existent and they will never refund the entire cost of your order!
On 12th May I ordered 2 new height sensors for my Range Rover. Upon fitting them to the car and following the correct tightening procedure as per the workshop manual, both sensors broke.
It turns out that the body of the height sensor stood proud of the mounting points which meant that they snapped when tightened. You can quite clearly see this when using a straight edge across the sensor in the images below:
After discussing this with the supplier they asked me to return the items to them using a prepaid shipping label. I packed the items and took them to the post office and 8 weeks later received an email stating that my claim had been accepted and that they'd be refunding my money.
5 days later I got a message from PayPal advising that I'd received a partial refund from Autodoc. When looking, the refund was £8.43 short of the amount that I'd paid. I questioned this and have been told that because Autodoc had to pay a courier to deliver the faulty items they sent me they won't be refunding the entire amount.
So... in a nutshell, THEY send me parts that are quite clearly flawed, I then go out of my way to provide the packaging and make a trip to the Post Office to return the parts but they withhold the cost of postage from the refund.
It has taken me months to get to the point of actually getting a refund and now they are refusing to refund the cost of postage. Admittedly, it's less then £10, but it's the principle that stinks. Especially as it took them over 2 WEEKS to deliver the items to me in the first place!
I'd love to say this was the first issue I'd had with Autodoc but I've received broken parts from them in the past as well.
Buyers, be warned!
David.
Those readings dropping in stages sound about right IIRC.
0.05 is about spot on when everything is asleep.
Weather stations and the likes used to be a bugger for keeping things awake, however, if your RF receiver is disconnected it shouldn’t be that causing it.
David.
The tyres that were on this one prior were FullRun or something like that. Whatever it was on when I got it.
The Michelins are much, much quieter. They look good on the car too. Daft as it sounds, I like the design on the side wall lol.
David.