Hi Gents, I've just had the Bordeaux blow all the water from the expansion vessel, and when topping up the water just disappears ( presumably to the sump) but not to the floor
Topped her up and did about 1 mile - same again - red hot and steamy - blowing like a whale/
Filled again and ran without the filler cap - started to pump water out as soon as the engine ran - there was "mayonnaise" on the cap and she's been using a bit more coolant than normal - I suspect the head is dead !
Anyhow, I'll not be fixing and asking should I strip out the gas conversion ( done 3 yrs ago by Simon - bloodly lovely job) or just leave it on the eBay listing ?

Hi Gents, is there a multi-pin connector available that fits to the tow bar wiring plug behind RH rear light cluster, or do I have to cobble something up ?
The o/s is a 7 wire - the n/s a 4 wire - what is the function the n/s 4 wire connector ?
Finally, do I need a trailer indicator relay or is it built in to the car ?
Just fitted a tow bar and the boys in blue round here are getting keen on trailer inspections

Hi Gents, the right hand side blend motor seems to be duff the book symbol is showing and the air temp isn't too good, the LHS is just fine
If I need a new blend motor do I also need a Nanocom input to calibrate the new unit ?
Do I access the motor by dropping the glove compartment, and is there by any chance a fuse for this motor ?
2001 Bordeaux

Hi Gents, I recall some info on here about an O ring on the oil pressure safety / relief valve that could be the cause of a leak and also the O ring of the oil pressure switch. I know where the oil pressure switch is but not the pressure safety valve, guidance appreciated.
Also, if the rocker gaskets are replaced is there any need to renew the inlet manifold gasket ?
Finally I've tried my selection of metric sockets on the outer bolts of the rocker but none fit - is it non-metric ?
I have a nuisance leak - steam clean on the way.
Thor 4.0

A tad expensive - but a good idea

My P38 Thor 4L has a full recon engine with about 50k on the clock.
I've done about 20k with 20/50 engine oil / filter changed every 6500 ish - no issues at all.
Rave mentions 10/40 Semi Synth.
Looking at changing the oil soon and just musing whether or not to go to 10/40.
I've just laid out circa £400 for tyres and will cry buckets if the 10/40 duffs things up.
What say ye ?

Hi Gents, what are your thoughts on buying Wabco 2nd hand ABS sensors as opposed to new but not Wabco ?
Are the non-Wabco any good ?

Had a few weird issues with the car today inasmuch as the height went to max and eventually onto the bump stops. The 4 neon height indication now has all lights lit, warning on the dash about not exceeding 35mph and no sign of the EAS compressor kicking in.
I have checked the appropriate fuses and relay - they are fine.
I don't know where the thermal switch is, so could do with some guidance on that.
Tailgate is closed so that ain't the culprit.
Should I bridge out the EAS relay load connections to see if the compressor runs or is there something else I should look at first ?
Pleased I kept the Freelander as a spare...lol !
P38 - 2001

I'm having ABS activation whenever I brake below 15mph, bit of a nuisance when crawling in traffic and having to apply the brakes.
Removed the ABS relay and went for a short drive (not on main road) and the ABS activation / brake judder stopped, so to my mind that ruled out any air in the brake hydraulics.
After a few applications I lost the brakes completely - fair enough.
Replaced relay and drove without ABS fuse, again no ABS or brake judder below 15 mph but at least the brakes didn't go West.
Strangely the ABS compressor activated every second application of the brakes with the ABS fuse removed, whereas with the fuse and relay in it behaves normally - i.e. cuts in after 4 or 5 applications.

I assume the fault is with one of the ABS sensors - your thoughts ?
The 3 amigos don't show under normal driving conditions and the ABS light goes out after a few MPH as it should
2001 - 2001 P38

I'm fairly sure the dessicant in my Bordeaux is the original and even though she pumps up OK I'm thinking some new dessicant and a pump piston seal kit is about due.
Question is : Will removal of the items cause me to have to get a Nanocom guy to reset anything ?

My dear LPG Bordeuax started to get a bit sluggish on the battery last week and today it was a no go.
Checked voltage - fine, but current wasn't there and no indications from charging light, quick diagnosis was a duff battery.
Managed a start with a jump lead and another battery, and after a bit of muttering and swearing it was off to Halfrauds with the trade card, and left the engine running.
Delightful young lady at the counter insisted on the Reg no., so as to be sure I got the right battery - God bless her cotton socks.
Battery was hauled from the shelf, all tilled up with discount and they took it to the RR for me.
Got home and started work, making sure to keep 12v on the leads with the spare jump battery.
No problem, I've done this loads of times, hang on this is a tight fit - damned thing is about 1" too long and is on the tilt - more swearing.
I don't believe this - the battery poles are arse about tit - more swearing.
Yanked out the new battery and snapped the plastic pipe from header expansion to rad - more swearing.
Water everywhere and it was damned hot - more swearing.
Emptied my shed and found some 8mm soft copper tube,external bending spring and jubilee clips to make up new ends to the rubbers.
Started to cut the pipe and the hacksaw blade snapped - yes - more swearing
After about an hour I found another junior hacksaw - cut pipe and made the joints, top up with water and off to Halfords.
Drove to Halfords with old battery after jump leading, saw the delightful young lady and told her my woes.
Can you show me the receipt please ?....................Guess what ? - it was at home.
Sorry can't do anything without a receipt...blah blah blah, so off home and did the swearing in the car.
Eventually got the correct battery,fits like a glove and all is well.
I owe the swear box quite a few quid !
Not too sure what the moral of the story is.

Just a thought, is there any evidence to link RR / P38 radiators being topped up in "hard water" areas and the subsequent oft reported leaking block issues are caused by limescale restricting water flow and causing high temps ?

I'm getting a misfire on LPG but OK when I flick over to petrol.
I'm hopeful it's just the plugs struggling on gas but faring OK on the expensive stuff.
I'm assuming the leads are OK as she runs fine on petrol
BPR6ES plugs have done about 17k on gas, new ones coming next week, so will see how it goes.
Maybe the system is due a service - Simon install about 15 months ago, maybe a trip to Sunny Yorkshire is on the cards.
Had a quick spray round with leak detection fluid when engine was running - not a bubble in sight and no pong of gas in the car.

Hi, apparently a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is way better than WD40 and all the other penetrants - that's what I read on a US forum, gotta be worth a try.

I'm still having the annoying notchy brake pedal groaning and noisy spring type noise most prominent when starting off then seems to semi behave. Sometimes the brake seems rock hard but after applying a bit more force all is well.
I've noticed that if I apply the brake lightly when going down hill there is a definate rhythm to the pedal feel of lifting, it's as though at every full revolution there is this groan / brake pedal judder, it's a kind of ABS vibration through the pedal
The problem only occurs when driving at less than 10 - 15mph
ABS light not showing when being driven above 5mph
The car is 2001 and I assume the problem isn't the plastic washers in brake modulator issue, as I believe this was a pre 99 problem.
Up to now I've only cleaned the ABS relay contacts (with hindsight I can't see what difference that would have made)
I called at a local Indie who has a P38 and he took her for a blast - he suspects the master cylinder ( God bless him he gave her a full Nanocom as a freebie and didn't charge for the zoom around the village)
Where do I start ?
New fluid and Rave flush ?
Wheels off and check slider pins
Check reluctor rings............................aaarrgghh!
Calipers, pads,discs ?
Any help / suggestions ?

Had to disconnect the battery for a short while and when reconnected the radio went into "Wait" mode.
Has now been in this mode for a few months, have pulled the fuse with ignition on to kill the radio supply loads of times but still no enter code request display
Any short cuts ?
2001/ P38
Hugh

Hi Gents, does anyone know of some good headliner fitting guys / or girls to do my P38 Bordeaux ?
Don't mind travelling too far from Nth Wales and waiting 3-4 hrs
Thanks

Hi Gents, need some info on why my P38 4.0L (Thor) tends to over run when foot is off the throttle.
For example I can take my foot off accelerator at let's say15mph the old girl just stays there instead of slowing down, same as when foot off going downhill, she doesn't hold the speed.
Pain in th a*** when trying to gauge the slow down for traffic lights and crossings
Tickover is OK on both fuels (LPF and petrol)
Plenum and butterfly valve are clean
Is it a duff TPS ?
If it is the TPS will the electronics self adapt, or is some form of electronic reset required ?
Also, what is the correct setting for the two cables on plenum ?
Cheers

Just been reading about the new MOT rules, it seems if your EML (Energy Management Light) doesn't illuminate when you switch on the ignition it's a MOT failure.
Doh ! Some RR's don't have EML's, could be fun arguing the case with the tester.
Same applies to the ABS, car needs to be driven - the one mean band tester won't drive it onto the road, nor I suspect will the big boys due to insurance issues.
Brings me on to the "dangerous fail" - from what I've read up to now the car can't be driven anywhere at all after a dangerous fail.
Anywhere means anywhere, so will test stations be stacked up with immoveable cars, or maybe have a scrap dealer hawking round with his low loader waiting for freebies ?
Goodness knows how the LPG converted cars will be assessed.
Anyone out there have good news on this ?

Finding my P38 brakes to be a tad hard and not "servo - ish" as per my now sorned Freelander.
Does the accumulator just "die" or are there stages of demise that could cause the hardish brake feel issue ?
Brakes work well when slammed on and car stops OK, it's just the servo type feel is not there.
Accumulator pump works OK and no excessive over-run when pressing the brakes or when driving.
I'm minded to change the accumulator but I'm asking the oracles for advice and words of wisdom before saying adios to £117
2001 - P38
Thanks
Hugh