Hi fellas, this is a strange one, but I hope since we are in a P38RR forum we are not entirely normal and someone can chime in and give me some ideas or support.
I will try to be succint ...
I have an old-timer project, a 280ZX which I sadly came to the conclusion it will never materialized as a restauration during my lifetime.
I've given up and found a brother in arms willing to take it up, but he balked at the cracked windscreen and asked me to deal with it and then get to discuss business.
After long searches, I've sourced in Cardiff (CF32TX) a windscreen (aftermarket, but is new!), a practically unicorn part as you can imagine.

Problem is the windscreen is not packed, and seller is not taking the responsibility to pack it for transport, nor willing to organize shipping. I could pay it online no problem, though.

Now my forwarder (warehouse is in Kent) is willing to solve both issues, and pack the screen to come to me in Bulgaria, but wants an inordinate amount of money for the in-UK transport, like 2GBP per mile (each way). They were honest enough to suggest I look for an alternative locally, and they can deal with the international part.
I have no idea how much a courier pickup would cost, even less if we talk about something bulky and fragile as an automotive windscreen.

I know it might be a shot in the dark, but is there anyone that travels that route and would be willing to take this on, dealing with the seller as well?
Obviously I will compensate adequatelly .... if this is somewhat possible, my forwarder can take care of the rest from Kent onwards.
Is not an urgent or big rush, but if it can happen, the sooner the better, to liberate myself and move on ....

Thanks!!!

I got an issue that is keeping me busy and driving me crazy.
Rear right woofer has became nearly silent, you can barely hear it. The midrange in the door card sounds loud as normal.
I replaced the speaker with another three spares I had laying around, with two same effect, with one there is some "movement", but again very low.
Removed the radio and replaced with another from a neighbor, same.
Open up the ISO connectors and swapped left to right the pins (a major pain in the butt), same. Is only that side that gives trouble.
I replaced the amp in the door with another I have laying around, same.
I shortened brutally the cable going through the door, in case it had gone bad somewhere unseen, no improvement.
I tested the speakers with a multimeter, all give around 3.4/3.5 ohm. The midrange in the door card, 2.5 ohm.
I tested the output to the woofer in the door amp, both give around 10Kilo ohm, I do not know if is right, but both are consistent.
I do not know what else to do ....

I am now seeing the ETM and the wiring diagram for the rear door bass speaker looks weird (page 144). Can someone help me interpret which cable goes which way in those connections? I can reroute them to match the diagram, if I can understand it (I am tired today, played with it for three hours after work ...)
Someone has messed around in this car in the past, so something might be out of line. I do not remember if this worked before, but I think it did.

I got something that keeps me puzzled, and ask for some input.

Backstory: when I started to take apart the interior, I had in a couple of occasions to move the car without airbag, sometimes in a rush fitting a steering wheel as it was. When I finally started to put together the interior, I've noticed that turning the wheel there would be a "crunching" noise coming from the steering wheel, and I assumed I've ruined the clockspring that was not aligned to the wheel itself.
As the car runs fine, I left it for other time ...

Fast forward one year and a half to today :)) and finally I got sorted another clockspring to replace, I took the shrouds off, and so on, fit the wheel and turn slight, and start to hear the same 'crunch' ... took wheel off and I realize comparing with photos online that my wheel is missing that little button that is supposed to "push" the contact with unlocks the spring - I do not know how to explain in other words.
I will go now down to the garage to see if my other spare wheel has it, otherwise I will need to look for it.
This is okay, but ->

But I got another problem, which keeps me puzzled: if I fit the clockspring in its tabs in the steering column, and then I put it in the position that is "locked" to accept the steering wheel, is moved to one side like 30 degrees, in the sense the steering would be out of center
If I push it manually, then is misaligned and I fear the moment the wheel goes in, will break it again.
When I stopped the car this was not an issue, and I have not taken it to align or any messing with the steering linkages.
What could have happen? What am I doing wrong?
I do not mind having the steering "out of center" and take the car to align, as long as I can get rid of the crunching clockspring, but what do you guys think could have happened?
Thanks for bearing with me ...

Feel bad about opening a topic for this, but there is nothing similar to piggyback to ... need some ideas here
I have a Witter flange tow bar, which is OK for me, but sometimes it would be more useful if I had a receiver/hitch the "square" type, like the US ones. I am planning to fit a motorcycle stand, would like a sturdier support for the bak-rak, and I am toying with the idea to use it to assist in my idea for a portable crane like those available for pick-ups.
What do you suggest I do? Modify the Witter somehow or ditch it for an US type - which unfortunately would not be approved/certified in EU, although here in Bulgaria this would not be an issue since they really do not look right now at these things, but abroad they do ...

Having asked permission to The Chief, He Has Agreed to open up a topic where we can share what we might have to give away, or need to find, for our RRP38s, whether is for sale, to buy, swap, or donate to another fellow in the pub forum :-)
His Only Requirement was <<not to spam with sales listings for every single bit and to remember to give "mate's rates" to forum members>> :-)
No need for specific rules, but to make it easier it would help to state where the item is, or where it can be delivered, condition, etc. ... and once sold/found to clear it or update the posts!

Was looking for something similar in the search archives, but came out empty handed.
Who shares the passion, enjoyment, or despair of owning/riding/restoring/repairing /hoarding motorcycles or bicycles?

My stable has a '98 Guzzi California EV and a '94 Vespa PX150 (that this year decided not to work at all so it misses the season!), but I am still overjoyed as I managed to put back on the road after four long years my old faithful Guzzi, so now I feel renewed!
This brought me also the will to finish lingering on the subject of getting myself a small enduro/trail bike, which I am looking at since years but never accomplished ... feel free to throw ideas or if you got something you want rid of, well ...

I also got to rediscover the joy of pedaling and I got myself a small 20" folding bike to carry around, in addition to a regular "touring" 26".
I've done more road on a bicycle this year than the last - at least - five ... feeling good about it as well.
Need to post some pics.

You guys?

Inevitably, to keep alive any vehicle you must have faced the inevitable dreadful news of no longer available parts ...
Can we use this topic to list stuff becoming unavailable for the P38s and eventual alternatives or options, even makeshift ones?
Not talking about any uber-rare Autobiography stuff or unicorn accessories, but most basic things sooner or later we all might need.

For example, I've been made aware that temp sensor by the heater core, STC3256, is NLA (Valeo). I am happy I got mine recently, but I am not sure how to rig something when it will go south.

OEM heater core Valeo is also out of catalogue, still can be found (I got one as NOS - New Old Stock in UK, incidentally). Alternatives are available (Nissens, Britpart), but not sure I'd swear by those.

Keep going ...

Taking off from this phrase from Gilbertd on the 'EAS height' topic ....
It was designed the way it was for a reason so quite why people seem to think they know better than the man who designed it is beyond me.....
... without wanting to sound like flaming, I always find a lot of issues (sometimes idiotic) with the design of the vehicles I own, maintain, repair, and modify. Often said modifications are to address shortcomings or flaws in the original design, due to constrains or requirements set by the manufacturer (which I do not necessarily need to abide to), outdated/obsolete components (normal, nothing to complain about), and so on, but other times, are something completely out if any reasonable thinking .... now, without getting into the obvious of the P38s design shortcomings (say, the RF), what curious quirks or strange things of the P38 call your attention?

One of my most mind-boiling ones is the decision to throw the driveshafts and output of the BW TF on the left side, opposite to any other LR since 1948, needing a separate arrangement for everything, and obviously negating the possibility to share components with the rest of the vehicle range. I have not come across a sensible justification for such decision. The Taylor claims it was done to improve comfort for the driver (in RHD vehicles) having more legroom, but there is not really a noticeable difference ....

About the EAS, while I understand locking the operation while brake is on and/or door(s) is(are) open, don't see really the reason for it to 'wake up' and settle/level the vehicle. You might object is in order to avoid excessive leaning, but honestly even if you deflate fully one bag only, it does not really go that much out of normal ... it seems designed to just waste air - and drain battery. Am I missing something?

Mind you, I love the RRP38 as a whole, this is just for ....pub talk ;-)

Used searched but no results ... a mate from Italy has a late Diesel with the MAF sensor, and his HawkEye shows a "Boost Temperature" reading fixed always at 124.8 deg. Vehicle has no strange behavior, fuel consumption in the norm, smoke, all seems fine, but the weird data remains.
He tried swapping MAF with another friend same year/model but no change in the data observed. Unfortunately don't have access to a Nano or other means of checking (actually, do these phony things app like Torque work on P38s?).
Anyone has come across a similar case?

Haven't seen this one yet, but I am sure it is a staple into each owner of a second hand vehicle ...
These are some of the horrors I've met when taking apart stuff that was not working, or not part of the vehicle originally ... this topic is meant to amuse the experienced, to scare the unwary, and in general to promote despising those creating such works of art ...

Attempt at solving battery drain with rallye style on-off switch

by making a hole into the pillar

bodge job on the windscreen washer

just a little bit of dirt ...

you can always evaluate the level of dedication of the diligent P38 owner by forensic examination of the remains of the scuttle panel filter ....

I've never understood what was the purpose of this ...

and finally .... aaah! a classic from one of my favorite characters: the LPG installer! Together with the audio "pro" and the alarm "wizard", the typical LPG installer completes a fantastic trio whose aim in life seems to be only to ruin classic car posterity ... in this particular case, what was the need to drill thru this ... oh well. By the way, using the same cable from the switch I've moved it from "there" to inside the ashtray, without trouble. Despicable people ...

Well, I got more, but now is your turn to delight the crowds! :-)

Mentioned somewhere my mistrust and disaffection for OE instruments, geared to provide minimal relief to unwary drivers, and in the case of the P38's ECT, downright scary - having the Nano reach 117 and the needle isn't moving because it moves after 120 is worthy of distateful words for whoever designed it that way.
I always thought of getting some extra info, I reutilized my old Scangauge and fitted it where the front ashtray is, and use it to monitor IAT and ECT more precisely (at least I know better when I am going to blow!), along with fuel calculations for trip computer, VLT, etc. But this is not enough.

I have a battery of old school VDO gauges I was going to fit to my HZJ laying around inutilized, but they barely match the clean shapes of the P38 cockpit, so I decided to settle for a more sober look and just put something small where the rubber mat sits in the dashboard, and just fit up to three gauges. Now is where the fun starts.

1) has anyone ever installed or seen anything installed there? Having the dashboard out (all peeled off, I had a lot of fun with the glue!), I would like to drill and run all cables while everything is accessible. I've noticed the dash center indentation where the mat goes fits fairly well a mini MudPod, which does fit three gauges and has a similar "grain" finish to the top of the dash, ok, but the underside is taken by the ducts of the HeVAC, there is not much room to manouver. Any opinion before I drill carelessly? :-)

2) to minimize the mess but maximize the info I found that the Madman EMS is a nice pretty package, recommend you look at it. Price is hefty, but has a lot of inputs. Unfortunately, the EMS2 is out of production, its black/green dial was perfect to match the rest of the dashboard. The new EMS3 is full color like those Japanese aftermarket radios, but that is what it is. Inputs are VLT, EGT (I guess don't need this on the V8 at the time, unless I go S/C), CLD (Coolant level), ECT (Coolant temp), Oil pressure (or Boost), Oil temp, and up to 2 outputs where via relay you can activate something else, for example the condenser fans.

3) Now, I got all the wiring for the MadMan and I am wondering where to attach myself to. I will run all wires to the engine bay, but leave the EGT disconnected at the time. My plan was to wire:
a) Oil pressure - what to use? there is like no place to fit one around the filter, maybe one of these "sandwitch flanges" that fit in between filter and block?
b) Oil temp - not sure yet usually the suggestion is a plug in the sump, either drilling, or replace the sump plug with one with the sensor. I do not like any of these ideas, so I thought the following: the gearbox cooler has a temp sensor on the side (more on this later), what if I fit one to the engine oil cooler and monitor from there? I am planning to take the gearbox cooler sensor out of my donor Rangie and run it with a tester to see what response it provides ....
c) Coolant temp is fairly easy, I will select the hottest point - I think is the top hose - to have a separate reading from the sensor that feeds the Motronic (and the Nano or the Scangauge in my case). 2 readings is better than one!
d) Coolant level is also easy, I had a mate in Italy done in his D2, using BMW expansion tank with provision for a sensor and a sensor itself, wired accordingly
e) back in the day where every hot day was a dat of terror, I've spliced into the switch for the condenser fans to have the possibility to activate them manually. I will now wire this switch to the MadMan relayed output, to have the gauge directly activate the fans once a worrisome temp is detected.

Since I am not a master in electrics, anyone that wants to throw a suggestion on this ... be welcome - even a "why are you bothering?" but I have already passed that stage :-)))

Will write later about the other auxiliary gauges I am planning ...

... in my endless quest for understanding the intricacies of maintaining a P38 Range Rover, I've came across this forum some months ago, while researching the (evil) magic of the RF "green dot" "blue dot" and similar, and attracted by Martyuk's knowledge on the matter, I took note of his website and send him an email (which he never answered lol) and though nothing more of it ... yeah, bad, I know.

Time later, in one of my numerous email exchanges with Phil (known here as 'Holland&Holland'), I've noticed in one of his videos this place was mentioned, and I did notice the curious fact I was again redirected here ... so this time I've decided to look more carefully.
And I've found something I was looking for since quite a while: a close community of 'aficionados' to this neglected and fascinating vehicle, which is really much more than the sum of its parts - especially taking into account its history and heritage, development, and giving a lot (in all sense) still over 25 years.... (I also did learn why Marty might have never had time to answer my email as well!).

There are plenty forums online (I am not into FB WH and the like, old fashioned I am), some of them pretty rich in info and people, but there is always a certain 'distaste' getting into them as you belong to the much fabled hated distasteful "black sheep" of the LR family (actually time shows there is plenty dark in many of its siblings also, but less talked about). Also, forums age as cars and people age, and much info is being lost which cannot be maintained if not by those with true spirit of sacrifice. Which from some initial reading (soon will be more), here seems to be plenty lol!
So I hope then to be able to be part of this, and amuse you with some tales of my love and suffering for my beloved Rangie.

She is a 00 4.6 and is my third RR, l had in the past two Classics (a 2-door '85 which I regret deeply losing, and a 4-door EFI Vogue '89 which
I also regret selling). I've also had a Disco 300 '97 (also very much remembered), after which I made a long stint in the Dark Side, where I was dazzled by American and Japanese starlets (some amazingly capable), but somehow I always longed to get back to the Green Oval. Must be the 'imprinting' of those Sandglow vehicles full of mud jumping through rivers and jungles when I was a kid ....

Well, I guess this was long enough for an introduction (I tend to write a looot!). Will see how to post images online to provide more grounds for entertainment, and after gulping a drink or two will find sufficient courage to explain why of all available I've chosen a P38 to return to the fold :-)

Thanks for having me!