That is a very diplomatic and useful piece of advice ... if it ain't broken, don't bother with it!
I will refer at the earliest opportunity ...
I came wandering in here because of a question of another fellow P38 Diesel owner.
He has the same -38.8 display on the nano, and was wondering about it.
His point is that perhaps the difference comes from the setup of the cars: early/older Diesels, without MAF, have the IAT sensor on the manifold, whereas 'late' ones is integrated on the MAF.
Perhaps Nanocom has not updated the logic e either the signal is not coming through the way the Nano expects it ....
However now I read above Richard seems to have solved the mystery with another ECU ... here I am to pick your brain on that, so I can suggest it as an option. It would be interesting to know what exactly makes the ECU fail at sending the signal ... his car runs sweet and fine.
Sometimes the little jobs are the most satisfying ... I got so much to update, hope I can do it soon!
I thought of many ideas at the time, but I am out of patience and interest to keep playing. Nevertheless,
The idea of Richard for the speakers is far simpler than the attenuator, which unfortunately fails over time. I did mine first time in 2016 and I had to re-do it last year, but I could not find the same components and now it does not sound as good as it was.
I never manage to make my PWIRC work however ... darn
I assume running Waze via the phone means I loos navigation if I have to deal with a call.
Not necessarily! I am jumping across different vehicles, sometimes in the day, and I did setup Waze to 'stay on top' the screen at all times. It means if a call comes through, Waze remains on, and if you make a call, is just the time you take to dial in, then it returnd. I have an old Samsung, so is not top notch technology ....
I used kitchen products, those above the owens, cut to shape.
Those two pipes are driving me crazy ... I got one lamp always foggy, the pipes are free of debris - blasted with compressed air, yet nothing seems to take away the misty condition, then in some moment bulb goes kaputt ... I am already on the third one. Ohwell.
I have shortened the plug years ago, and never got the messagge again, except in one time in which I was low on power and propably the BeCM was out of ideas of how to get my attention. Immediately I though "I need to shorten the plug again" but instead went away and never back since.
I made this work years ago from underneath with the raised vehicle, lots of sweat and swear words - curious how similar the two words are LOL
Bumper off is ideal to get at the pumps, but there is also the simpler option of removing the headlight and access from above. This is also good to check the condition of the nuts holding the headlamp, which tend to rust happily, and grease them accordingly.
Good you solved!
Talking about rear wiper, I can say the Britpart blade is really a shitpart blade ... very short-lasting product!
Ah ah ... I am planning to go down your road in an inverted course ... looking to replace all the 'toys' with an 88/110 combo and ... call it a day :-)
The handles are not stiff like they were before I refurb 'em, I even found new right side which is driver's UK side which now is NLA.
You tug and it comes out fast and nice, not stiff, it just takes a lot of effort to "pull" the door open. Can't explain it, but next time I pass to some friend with a bodyshop will ask.
Probably the striker plate it is, it would not suprise me.
I also can confirm what you have is normal ... believe me I spent long periods with a partially clogged radiation and temps were always in the +100 C ... done thermostat, water pump, and whatnot, but nothing changed until I've replaced the rad and since there I have never seen higher temps than 92-95 even when towing in summer (2.5/2.7t car trailer).
Now, instead what you mention is a very common problem with "modern" vehicles, and after "cooking" one car I have become very wary of that. Underood temps are very very high on modern cars, especially turbocharged and with the cat/cats located in the engine bay. Unfortunately, there is no way to get around it. Often I get to use almost new cars and the situation is the same ....
Unless you plan a way to fit some "extraction fan" that can activate manually of with a timer-relay, you will need to live with it.
When I come back from a trip or extended city use in how weather, when I park in the garage I usually crack open the hood and let it ventilate, if I have the chance. Much to the amusement of some of my mates, I do the same even in public places, provided I get to watch the car or if it is in a private area. I do the same also when I stop during a long trip for a walk or a cup ... yeah I know is not giving proper support to fight the usual "P38-British-LandRover-always-break-down" look on others, but I don't care ...
One not to add to his very useful topic is how to actually "adjust" them after putting them back in ... I mean I did the refurb of both my front ones, but they stick somewhat and are very hard to open, you need to pull with a certain firmness and I am sure this will break them earlier, especially when my passengers are ... what they are.
Rear ones are light touch and click open, so it must be a problem of adjustment ... I looked - poorly - into the manual but I did not find how you do it.
So there is hope yet! Thanks! Now, on to the next task ... topic for another thread!
Marty does have a limited number of his RF filters in stock.
Any way to confirm the current situation? I have a "colleague" from the Italian forum with a RF interference issue and he is going bonkers. He mentioned did send couple emails to Marty's shop email but no answer ... as I know Marty is in NZ he might not follow that mailbox anymore ?
Sorry to hear Kbs, is not a problem to move on, but if you feel "forced" to do so, it is not so easy to bear. Hope it goes well with the other projects!!
I had opened a thread for such cases time ago, might want to use it ....
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1983-the-place-for-sales-swaps-wants-offers-gifts-and-giveaways
You lost me on the "robust design" lol
Man this is gold ... sometimes I wish I hadn't such a stupid car, but at the same time I rejoice there is so much wealth of info about it! :-)
Interesting!
How did you manage to repair the hi-beam vs flash problem?
Any cheap option of dash switches bulbs? I see hefty prices ....
Yes, entry side, but now you got me thinking from where it "sucks" .... it was like soot, not oil.
Will take it apart again and look carefully and the lower part of the air filter box.
I am indeed surprised .... do not know what to say. Will look at it in say a couple months to compare.
Yess, you must be right .... might as well do it at once. Never a rest moment!
However is the switch and valve relief work, I wonder if is only an o-ring problem then ...