Good you solved!
Talking about rear wiper, I can say the Britpart blade is really a shitpart blade ... very short-lasting product!
Ah ah ... I am planning to go down your road in an inverted course ... looking to replace all the 'toys' with an 88/110 combo and ... call it a day :-)
The handles are not stiff like they were before I refurb 'em, I even found new right side which is driver's UK side which now is NLA.
You tug and it comes out fast and nice, not stiff, it just takes a lot of effort to "pull" the door open. Can't explain it, but next time I pass to some friend with a bodyshop will ask.
Probably the striker plate it is, it would not suprise me.
I also can confirm what you have is normal ... believe me I spent long periods with a partially clogged radiation and temps were always in the +100 C ... done thermostat, water pump, and whatnot, but nothing changed until I've replaced the rad and since there I have never seen higher temps than 92-95 even when towing in summer (2.5/2.7t car trailer).
Now, instead what you mention is a very common problem with "modern" vehicles, and after "cooking" one car I have become very wary of that. Underood temps are very very high on modern cars, especially turbocharged and with the cat/cats located in the engine bay. Unfortunately, there is no way to get around it. Often I get to use almost new cars and the situation is the same ....
Unless you plan a way to fit some "extraction fan" that can activate manually of with a timer-relay, you will need to live with it.
When I come back from a trip or extended city use in how weather, when I park in the garage I usually crack open the hood and let it ventilate, if I have the chance. Much to the amusement of some of my mates, I do the same even in public places, provided I get to watch the car or if it is in a private area. I do the same also when I stop during a long trip for a walk or a cup ... yeah I know is not giving proper support to fight the usual "P38-British-LandRover-always-break-down" look on others, but I don't care ...
One not to add to his very useful topic is how to actually "adjust" them after putting them back in ... I mean I did the refurb of both my front ones, but they stick somewhat and are very hard to open, you need to pull with a certain firmness and I am sure this will break them earlier, especially when my passengers are ... what they are.
Rear ones are light touch and click open, so it must be a problem of adjustment ... I looked - poorly - into the manual but I did not find how you do it.
So there is hope yet! Thanks! Now, on to the next task ... topic for another thread!
Marty does have a limited number of his RF filters in stock.
Any way to confirm the current situation? I have a "colleague" from the Italian forum with a RF interference issue and he is going bonkers. He mentioned did send couple emails to Marty's shop email but no answer ... as I know Marty is in NZ he might not follow that mailbox anymore ?
Sorry to hear Kbs, is not a problem to move on, but if you feel "forced" to do so, it is not so easy to bear. Hope it goes well with the other projects!!
I had opened a thread for such cases time ago, might want to use it ....
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1983-the-place-for-sales-swaps-wants-offers-gifts-and-giveaways
You lost me on the "robust design" lol
Man this is gold ... sometimes I wish I hadn't such a stupid car, but at the same time I rejoice there is so much wealth of info about it! :-)
Interesting!
How did you manage to repair the hi-beam vs flash problem?
Any cheap option of dash switches bulbs? I see hefty prices ....
Yes, entry side, but now you got me thinking from where it "sucks" .... it was like soot, not oil.
Will take it apart again and look carefully and the lower part of the air filter box.
I am indeed surprised .... do not know what to say. Will look at it in say a couple months to compare.
Yess, you must be right .... might as well do it at once. Never a rest moment!
However is the switch and valve relief work, I wonder if is only an o-ring problem then ...
Maybe unrelated question is this possible the air filter get soo dirty? What do you believe is the problem here? It had like 9k km ...
https://1drv.ms/i/c/05b738b1c4563d88/EcWZfAtgljFKrv86XnRcxkgBjheDcw7uwJoITPxOChqcHQ?e=tWspnR
I've brought this up, because I've just changed the oil and the filter was leaking as well.
I thought it came from up high where the valve covers were leaking but no, I've fired her up to make the level and I got a drop immediately rinning down the filter.
I had no time to look well in the region ... can it be the oil switch gasket leaking instead, or both? Which you recommend is an easier one to address?
So with lots of happyiness and cheer, I took apart again the thing, luckily this time the valve covers were not part of the work, so I cut some corners here and there not stripping everything by the book, and managed to do it all in one go and be done in time for going in the afternoon to the LPG check.
BUT
on engine startup, it became very rough running, with rich smell and unstable idle. First time it happens, and I thought it was due to the LPG, after a couple minutes became stable, and running to the LPG place around 10km down the road, no issue at all.
Man connects his thing, and in that moment all hell breaks loose, engine misfires, rough idle, car shaking like a 2cv ... unheard of. Obviously no calibration is possible.
I fish the nano out and I have both O2 sensor with "loss of signal" ... well, might have come their time, at 300k km.
I apologize and excuse myself and promise to return to calibrate with the sensors replaced.
As expected, on the way back home the Rangie works flawless.
I did not took photos of the finished job as it became late and the following day I made the 800km journey to get this Tesla without a single hiccup.
Now I will order the sensors and replace them, clear the trims and see how it goes.
Aerial view of the mess in the valve covers
https://1drv.ms/i/c/05b738b1c4563d88/Eduvx-LCY89GkilKlRl6tBkBjb399X0a11GZmVhbvfnFZA?e=rGqgIW
The rocker does not look very nice, there is some sludge, the other head looked worse but I forgot to take a photo. Ovbiously this has been not one of the most fortunate engines out there.
https://1drv.ms/i/c/05b738b1c4563d88/EWGMM8mQTRNPggATegbGsLIBXJTgNK31O0V_kvN_zc4nzQ?e=1xS3FA
After some more work I've put the covers in place
https://1drv.ms/i/c/05b738b1c4563d88/EUELbgrKQY1Pqajc_IDm1jIBtk5i2Vn28r03zbFQNGml4A?e=mmgxCC
https://1drv.ms/i/c/05b738b1c4563d88/EbJgZtEQf-9DsmtsRJ7uE3wBlUiTDnaocNG5IgO-qoSE1Q?e=bnvPHP
As well as the coils and the injectors, plus the pipes
https://1drv.ms/i/c/05b738b1c4563d88/ET6JKTJZQBRBt34rs4JxvGABCHoKBFZvpd4XKYkZLWimQw?e=bny7ot
https://1drv.ms/i/c/05b738b1c4563d88/EUD34h2WeHBEmSKjSlawJ4kBxOoPDq020ucujvbruoQBxw?e=XlX5fU
https://1drv.ms/i/c/05b738b1c4563d88/EU7FynzU_4RGm6gOj9_Zv8gBo1Pbb_F-j1JXasXe00bTjw?e=o26kD1
With trepidation, I assembled all together again, I fired it up and there was no KA-BOOM, wihch means the job looked well done!
Run, get to operating temp, all fine no errors, no misfire, great ... go for drive, but the engine is low on power, so I connect my cable to see the LPG system, I see no errors, but I cannot complete the calibration. So I went to a friend that has an LPG workshop to see if he can do it, but on the way there reflecting on the low power I remember that, in my continous on-off from this job, I had forgotten to swap the old injectors' nozzles on the new injectors ....
Well, this is not exactly "today", but I did owe you guys an update on a major matter in the life with my P38.
For starters, have in mind I have been using it less this year, I got myself a more modern runabout for long fast trips, so the RR has bee relegated to hauling trips and cargo work .. I would assign her also offroad duties, but I feel I will break something and I prefer another vehicle for that, more on that elsewhere.
BUT
Since quite some time I had the feeling that something was "odd", with engine vibrations and a general rough feeling, plus a sporadic nano record of a misfire. I've checked with a friend that has a workshop with specialized equipment and he noted one of the coils was giving a "weak" spark.
Having the coils positioned in a vey handy place, and in my case passing through there all the pipework for the LPG injectors, it was going to be a combo job. I thought it was going to be ideal also to replace the gaskets on the valve covers, which have been leaking oil since forever, and also, why not have some paint work done on them.
Since the above, the entire summer passed and the problem started to get worse, and no way to get my friend free enough to assist, so then, as usual, I decided to take matters in my own hands and do it myself. How hard can it be?
I got first some covers "borrowed" to minimize downtime, and had them sandblasted and powder coated in matt black. Then I got new injectors - after all, the ones there are like 10years and +130k km according to the original invoice, and I did not want to do the job again soon. Then I got some meters of piping, new coils - Bosch as the OE ones, and bits and pieces. All the procurement alone took me weeks ...
The it was a problem of finding the time, which occurred close to pre-xmass. The reason was I had a job for a friend to go get a brand new Tesla 3 in Thessaloniki, and I really did not want to put many miles on a not so good running engine, fear of worsening the situation.
My starting point was this
https://1drv.ms/i/c/05b738b1c4563d88/EctX3ril5xRDvWEq8_tWI5EBcPIu_SXNrGNL9OJzzfxpAg?e=F35n7O
So after some reading in the workshop, came time to start taking apart things. Due to some quirk of mine, I did not disconnect the cables for throttle and cruise, so the bunch of bananas would be hanging around these. It was fairly quick to get to this stage, especially since the one that worked there before me left only one top bolt for the coils' bracket .... actually quick no, entire deal was days as I was working on "free time", no more than couple hours a day, sometimes even less.
https://1drv.ms/i/c/05b738b1c4563d88/Ec8O8S7IxgJNl1LFC8iN58oBB8BVhJfXXjaInAsvqw0r3Q?e=GhUi4V
The injectors' pipes were very hardened, some really wooden, and a couple had already some hairline cracks, so it was due time. One of the pipes broke as I pulled it, so really was on its last legs.
https://1drv.ms/i/c/05b738b1c4563d88/ESxnNRI6RkBKtI32Rd4PX0oBeTTZiefl2QoQgvae0-3YrA?e=8m4VA0
Can we usually tell if the V8 idles with a misfire on one cylinder by hand feeling the engine rock?
I do not know by hand feel, but I was feeling something was "odd" and I had a defective coil, with misfire on cil 7 - more on another thread
Usually if the RV8 is in order, nothing is felt ... is very smooth