The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
236 posts
Feb 25 2020
12 April 2020 - 19:03

wow that is a nice stable!

I think I will also add a note of a different color .... my beauty in green ... but I do not have any current "whole" photos so ....

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After a looot of lingering and money wasted (I am gearing up for the "biggest cock up" topic, I think I have good chances of winning a respectable prize there :-/ ) I've finally came across a non-runner (engine no compression) '99 4.6 with a nice body and interior for a cheap price and at only 10km from my workplace and could not let it go ... here it is with my current workhorse taking it "home"

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30 August 2020 - 05:16

Hello and welcome, brother of "model year".
I had in the past the 'rough road' error, this comes from the ABS/brakes computer. In my case, a failed ABS sensor kept acting up and sending on-and-off the signal. Obviously ABS/ETC were not working.
"Signal implausible" means the ECU received a signal that it cannot interpret ... either out of range, random, none, etc.

18 September 2020 - 05:33

Well, me also got very messy lately, but there are couple items I can let go - and find quickly if needed:

I got a lot of 2x Alpine radio units (Thor), one working with valid code, display ok, (only the volume acts up once in a while), the other I never tried it. Also 2x matching Alpine CD-changers with the magazines, one was checked by a service and cleaned up, is working but it jumps a bit (I fixed the silicon buffers but it did not do the trick), the other I don't know.
I moved away from the OE units and will not be going back, so these are available for any purist interested.
Since they all have some issue of sort, and True to His Word - remember the "mate's rates" :-) - I consider the lot "good for parts" and will accept any reasonable offer :-)

18 September 2020 - 05:36

I got a favor/request instead, to any US-resident ... I am trying to buy some stuff from there and although I have a shipping address and all arranged, I can't get to buy it since the online form gets "confused" with me being non-US but having a US-address for delivery mismatching - obviously - my CC/billing address. If anyone feels compelled to help, PM me and I will explain :-)

09 October 2020 - 07:57

Sunroof drain could be only from the top area, because after it goes down the A-pillar it exits the cabin - the outlet is in between the fender and the door, you can actually spot it if you open the door.
If blocked on the upper part however, you should have leak spots in the headlining or in the carpet.
On mine I get a drip (little) from the upper seal (roof/door seal), I've silicone it but still does drip (it is glued originally to the roof area, but with the years it lets go, and it also "smashes flat". The rear doors have the same problem... and all those one drip right into the sill channel area.
Hope you find the cause ... water ingress is one of my top hates in a modern car, nevermind a "British" car, and a "luxury" car ... :-(

31 March 2020 - 05:46

They say you do choose your ride, but sometimes your ride chooses you. This certainly applies in this case!!!
Nice introduction, happy you have found your love-for-life (at least until some new ecoterrorism takes place)!

14 June 2020 - 11:05

Bring up this one ... I haven't done anything to it in days, but Marty has :-)
Waiting for BeCM ...

14 June 2020 - 11:10

You can ask the breaker to take the glass off and ship it without - if yours is fine, of course, but the problem of the large, heavy and awkward size remains. I have the same problem, you be better off searching high and low locally, and then get your hands very (very) wrapped around a repair/rebuild kit.

29 July 2020 - 17:33

Always used it, especially to attach and detach the trailer (what a blessing, air suspension!).
Also with passengers, parents and woman's parents are older and somewhat of short leg reach :-)

To prevent the bothering system interruption when a door opens, I've inserted a switch that allows me to disable the 'door open' signal, so that the car can continue to go down. I wish we could setup Access Mode at limited speed like newer RRs can do, to do this in ours we need a way to fool the EAS which looks for the "P" and the vehicle speed at zero...
Anyone want to play? :-)

29 July 2020 - 18:07

Uhm ... mine won't go into Access unless I am at zero speed, even if I pre-selected before.
What you are suggesting in mine works in that "crawl mode".

I mean I'd like to select access mode and the lady to drop her fat body onto access before I stop (say, under 10 km/h), this way it is fully down by the time you stop :-)

18 April 2020 - 19:02

This fall right into my area ... in our resto/custom projects part of the deep cleaning and "renewal" of interior parts includes heavy washing to get rid of several years of dirt, and the foam soaking is a classic occurrence.
Sorry to be blunt and drastic, but with the proposed ideas will be nearly impossible to get rid of the wetness, you might also incur in a mushy smell that you might never get rid of, or the foam rotting and disintegrating, which I seem to understand is already happening.
The type of cells of the foam are not made to hold water, nor they easily release it ... I've had a car leaking water in (it is a parts car in our wrecker yard) and even after a full summer with little rain the bottom part would still be wet ... I've had another in which I was unable to pull the carpet out to access some connectors, the water turned to ice (it was winter) and it "glued" the foam to the metal :-)

The P38 has a very very thick foam, even by other brands' luxury vehicles standards ... really high and heat formed very precisely to the metal floor. Don't cut it, even if partially missing it still keeps the shape somehow.
The only real solution is to take it out and let it dry, the way Clive did.

Would propping the carpet up and using a heatgun on low allow the foam to dry out do ya'll think?
Propping a piece up and putting heat is a miserable solution with questionable results. DO NOT use a heat gun because the concentrated heat melts the foam, which contracts sharply and makes a horrible smell (don't ask me how I know). At most, you can use one of these small heater like for the bathroom (obviously you need a mains... uh, you guys in UK got what, 110V?). And you need to think to leave it for hours and hours, and you will never be able to get all the foam to dry anyway, since whatever remains in contact with the floor is still ... wet. And besides the time and electrical expense and the risk of melting down the heater directly, you also need to keep the car ventilated from time to time .... ah! and you might end up twisting/deforming the carpet - depending on the "propping element", which will probably ruin it. Been there, done that :-( (all of it including the heater meltdown lol)

What Clive suggests, to do we do it regularly in our workshop with the vacuum cleaner/carpet washer (we use a Karcher SE400, borderline between a home appliance and a pro machine, but okay for regular use).
But only when you cannot get the carpet out, otherwise the best way is to really take everything out, power-wash it with good household cleaning materials, and then use the vacuum to take the biggest drip and then let it dry naturally. Obviously is a nice season job.
This type of "wet vacuum" machines can help you take some of the water in the foam underside the carpet, but it is a long an tedious job. Nevertheless, if you cannot get the carpet out now, and you have access to one of those, you can give it a go for the time being and guaranteed will remove some of the water.

Sorry for the long post. Now, some candy ... here's the underside of the carpet, see how precisely it fits!

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And here is being washed .... lots of dirt, it changed actually color

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20 April 2020 - 05:43

I had one missing in mine, but after fitting the tow connector all is fine :-)
Hope you get it from someone here, reference is NTC8902 and if available should cost next to nothing.

To the supreme leader of this establishment: could such type of topic be used for a "want/offer/exchange" corner?
No commercial advertising of course, just a means to get, swap, or get rid of stuff in a more friendly manner ...

15 June 2020 - 18:44

Welcome ... I am of the "new breed", never been other there lol
Good another Thor ... we are mighty!

16 June 2020 - 04:57

Same here, wasted two days on that. Did not manage to break yet, but it does make sinister creaking noises and to have a sunroof and don't use it ....

16 June 2020 - 04:55

thanks but ... ugh. Too much .... will stick to the ebay maltese option :-)

03 April 2020 - 20:26

How much of a gap are we talking? If is only to fit the DVD where the VHS is, then "weld" with a solder some plastic until you get a narrower hole, then just trim/sand it until you get an adequate shape. If you have skilled hands or catch the angle right, you are ready for finishing directly
Me, I don't have the touch of my colleague and always end up misshapen, so I need to use the filler to level

Remember, a VERY good source of quality ABS pastic are old car parts! For example, a discarded door card ... better an older car that had fairly "straight" cards. Also an old plastic box, or tray, are suitable donors. An old flat shovel ... just look around you! I rarely buy new stuff for these works ... rummaging around your junk you might find unexpected surprises! :-)
Once I've used the "bed" of a broken toy dump truck ....

02 September 2020 - 17:53

I concur the P38 is very well suited for towing duties. I did haul many a car in its dedicated trailer (twin axle with 14" wheels, around 2.3/2.5t gross, generally in the class of vehicles I work with) and never an issue. Usually I lock the EAS on standard height and I am pretty level.
With the small trailer for lighter duties (single axle unbraked with 13" wheels) I lock instead the EAS on motorway mode, because on standard remains tilted backwards.

Always remember to utilize the gearbox to its full potential, don't leave it stuck in D and expect it to take all the strain!

21 October 2020 - 10:37

Update: I did some research and confirmed what that I would not want to have the throttle body icing up when I do not want to ... so here we go .... messing around to see how to T-join the pipes I had the plastic pipe disintegrate at the slightest touch (I did had to touch it) ... options for replacement are:

  • 8mm copper tube to bend at will
  • 8mm silicone hose
    I gather most of you have gone for the silicone...

Now I was also wondering where to do the T joint ... if I use the pipe coming from the top of the radiator back to the expansion tank, could I run into any issues? It looks like the right one (same size) and also both coming back to the tank ... I am only concern for some airlock and therefore coolant being unable to escape the radiator in case of overheat ...

20 April 2020 - 13:06

Agree with all. Mind you, methods with heaters and so on inside the vehicle are possible, but not that effective.
Best "drier" I have found some far is the Sun :-)
Nothing beats a good afternoon baking, both sides :-)
Any smell just ... disappears!