Pretty sure from what I've read elsewhere, it's just that single screw that holds the two halves together. Remove that, and you should be able to hinge the front away relatively easily.

You can just about see the screw hole in Morats picture above.

There's a screw which you can see by peering down the top vent holes, that holds the front and back halves together, and means you don't need to disturb the air-con gubbins.

Goes without saying, don't drop the screw into the depths, it'd probably be a pain to get back out.

gordonjcp wrote:

Renewing the O rings doesn't work, because the soft brass cone wears down and they don't sit square on the seat any more, and it all starts to leak badly.

I've not seen inside these beasts, but could new brass cones be machined?

Borrowed a straight edge, so will start fettling with something tomorrow. Probably the Nissan, given the forecast is for snow and nastiness outside.

I don't. Can I pick one up at machine mart or somewhere?

Not made much progress. Had to fix the wifes Honda and get it through an MOT.

I did test that vacuum hose and spotted a big tear in it at a joint on the bulkhead. Pulled the hose out and put my finger over the t piece with the pump operating and solenoid active. Throttle opened fully so hopefully just fixing that split bit of pipe will sort the cruise.

Lpg kit ordered yesterday from Simon. Got a handful of other bits to order before reassembly.

I'm hoping to crack on with the Tino engine rebuild this weekend. Want to get that done ideally before tearing into the p38, so that I've got room in the garage for the bits.

I was going to take the p38 heads and get them pressure tested etc, but is that really necessary? If not it will remove another delay.

Ok, vaguely encouraging things back on topic.. Fluids. And not of the public house variety.

Any recommendations for brands/types of oil, coolant, brake fluid, etc etc?

Kawasaki ER6F

Not too bad I guess; I'll have to stop about two times then between here and the West Country if I'm going that way. Slightly more range than my bike.

True enough re ECU, at least I have a benchmark now though.

Any thoughts on the cruise then - if it's not the brake pedal pipe, could the solenoid in the vacuum pump have failed?

I ended up butchering a mini-fuse and fabricated a new pin. Working a treat, for now, anyway.

That got me to reading the fault codes, of which there was just one.

P1178 Maximum Positive AMFR Correction

Quick google suggests MAF needs a scrub?

Having gotten comms working with the ECM, I moved on to the next job in my face, namely cruise control. Followed the rave troubleshooting procedure through to 3D, which requires a drive wheel to be turned by hand. I went for one of the rear ones, but it didn't really want to turn, I'm guessing both wheels on an axle need to be off the ground to do this (I only had one)?

Anyway, figured that was probably not my problem, so continued on to 4D, and after realising the vacuum pump connector, well, wasn't, got it running.

5D then but the valve stubbornly sat there doing nothing. I've replaced the two small pipes going to the T-piece as they were perished, but haven't touched the long pipe which heads off towards the back of the engine. Any idea what that one is for/where it goes? If I disconnect that one, should there be a vacuum on it's T-piece outlet?

Good call orangebean. After careful perusal of rave, cleaning of all connectors between ECM and OBD2 connector commenced.

I looked at the two connectors helpfully positioned right below the coolant expansion tank, and thought some version of "what delightfully intelligent chap positioned those there".

Sure enough, disconnecting C106 (the 13 pin one which carries the ECM to OBD2 connection), I am greeted by corrosion in the lower half, to the point where pin 9 of the plug has remained seated in it's partner, Argonaut octopus style.

No prizes for guessing what pin 9 does.

Guess I need to salvage a plug/connector pair from somewhere then, unless it's possible to buy these connectors/plugs/pins?

Yeah all registered. Gordon was just over, and on his, we can talk to GEMS, but talking to EAS is ropey at best. EAS on mine seems OK.

Got the nano, but it doesn't seem to be able to talk to the GEMS ECU. My OBDLink MX Bluetooth adapter is able to have a rudimentary conversation with the ECU, which suggests it's there and talking, but the nano isn't working. Suggestions on a postcard, preferably not from Cyprus..

Ah, now that might've been me. I deleted a post on that thread whilst I was fighting with google drive and pictures.

I note the previous mention of Audi, is that a more reliable replacement or something?

My dash is currently fully disassembled, should I be doing these o-rings (and/or replacing the matrix) now? No signs of leaking at the moment.

Nano it is then.

Went over to the very helpful Mr Hallworth today to get the hevac codes read.

Although we could see (and confirm on the screen) that the blend motors were going full travel, both temperature blend motors were giving circuit faults. I'll have to recheck the feedback circuits on them.

One curiosity. We were unable to talk to the gems ecu with his testbook. Anyone seen that happen before?

Is there one that does everything (other than testbook which I imagine is either rarer than hens teeth and/or out of budget for mere mortals), or are they all much of a muchness?

Chuckle :)