Torque wise, hard to say really, as I barely drove it before doing the engine. Hoping Gordon or someone else local can drive it and see what they think.
Gordon had a play, and didn't seem to think it was too shabby.
He noted some tapping from the top end of the right hand head.
Hevac seems to be relatively happy now, no cheque book icon since the rebuild. So I've begun the process of reinstalling the dash. Got three out of the four bolts back in, will fight with the fourth again another day when it's dry and I have a helper.
Got all four in now, bit of a mission with the side air vent ducts in situ, but getting at their screws after install is nigh on impossible.
Rear wiper has a mind of it's own. Mostly it doesn't park properly, and I'm guessing a side effect of that is that it doesn't know when to stop the wiper for intermittent operation. It briefly worked today for about 5 minutes, but soon went back to wiping continuously. Is the park switch serviceable on the motor?
Bump. Had a quick look at the motor on the vehicle, but the switch appears to be embedded inside, with just the terminals sticking out. Thoughts?
Diagnostics can't talk to GEMS ECU again, so I'm guessing my bodge has corroded away and/or fallen out. I bought a replacement connector off eBay which I was planning to swap in to replace the old one, but instead I might just use one of the new pins and fix the old plug/connector. Was going to make up a metal shield to sit over the connectors too, but didn't get around to it. Might do it one day.
Swapped a pin/socket from the eBay connector, and can talk to the GEMS ECU again. No faults, bonus.
Air con seems to work, sometimes/usually, but the fans aren't spinning up. I need to dig into this further.
Dug further, fuses are fine, relays are fine, manually bridging the contacts on the "trinary" switch gets the one fan spinning and sometimes the compressor. I suspect the issue here is further upstream, as I'm only seeing ~ 0.7 volts on the incoming wire to that switch on its way to the compressor, most of the time. I've not measured what it reads when the compressor actually kicks in, since it's enough to drive the clutch solenoid successfully.
When it does kick in, the small pipe coming out of the compressor gets really hot. No noticable temperature differential at the connection on the condenser, and no real change in temperature at the vents, perhaps very slightly cooler. Typing all this out, I'm wondering whether the system is low on refrigerant.
Cruise control still isn't working. I've gone back through the diagnostics and they check out all the way to the final 'must be the ECU then' test. Gordon reckoned the relay should click when attempting to engage the cruise, and I'm not hearing that either.
I did, they looked OK to my untrained eye. I believe they weren't in the affected range either, from memory.
Perhaps this is just gems vs Thor then. I'll have to find someone else with a Thor to listen to I guess.
Cheers sloth. The small pipe at the pump was too hot to touch, and the return wasn't cold at all. I didn't test bridging the contacts on the single pressure switch, as I ran out of time. Will give that a shot at some point, ta.
Yeah, I spent quite a bit of time cleaning up the interface as best I could in situ. Gave the pipes a wiggle as suggested too. I wonder if the plastic housing is cracked?
Flipping back to ac, checked back of hevac and getting a healthy 12+ volts on the clutch engage line. Lo and behold, clutch has engaged as it should.
Still not getting anything anywhere near cold in the cabin though, even after 5 minutes. I don't really get how the compressor can be running but the vents aren't chilling, unless the compressor is barely working?
Was doing the o rings on a 4.0 westminster today for a guy in Glasgow. Or attempting to, anyhow.
Got the old ones out, they were a little square, but less crusty than mine were. Someone had been in there with the silicon sealant too. Cleaned it all up as best I could in situ, and put the new o rings in, screwed it back together, coolant back in and bled.
However, water is squirting out of somewhere around the black plastic bit where the pipes sit into. Almost seems like it's coming out of the back of it, but it's possible it's travelling down the bolt hole and out?
I've checked that the two pipes are engaged with their individual notches, cleaned off as much silicone as I can, and lubed the new rings so they slide in cleanly.
Any thoughts? Have I missed something, or is it the matrix that's US?
Gas pressure is good; had it checked today. Have ordered up a replacement trinary switch, hopefully that'll sort it. Technically I should've tested the old one, but that involves taking the bumper off again and I couldn't be bothered.
My description is probably fairly poor. It sounds kinda lumpy/pulsing to me:
Tapping.. well that's coming from the right hand cylinder head, tappets I guess. Not sure what, if anything, I can do about that.
Thanks for the suggestions. I had the bumper off yesterday to do a bit more digging, and the switches both tested as the pressure being OK with a continuity tester.
So I then bridged the two terminals on the trinary switch to enable the clutch, but still not getting clutch engagement - most of the time. It did engage for a bit at one point like this, after waiting a few minutes, but I wasn't able to reproduce it later. Even when engaged, although the top pipe from the compressor to the condenser gets really rather hot, the temperature of the bottom pipe never seems to change much, and of course the temperature in the car (or via nanocom) stays resolutely where it was.
It's really frustrating that nanocom can't show the status of outputs like 'clutch enable', rather than just the air-con demand signal. :(
One suggestion I found online was to figure out which wire on the back of the HEVAC drives the clutch, and put 12 volts down it to check whether it does anything. Not had time to do this yet. Any other thoughts on where to look?
In engine news, I'm slowly working my way towards the first 1000 miles. However I have a question about how smooth the engine should be at idle (and whilst revving to some extent). Whilst looking at the 4.0 thor the other day to do the o-rings, before we drained it, he started it up - it was velvety smooth at idle. My 4.6 gems sounds significantly more tractor like - is this normal between the two generations, or is my engine still not right? Unfortunately I don't really know what they are supposed to sound like when in top health. :(
Re pressure, I took it to an air con specialist I know last week as part of this diagnosis process and he reckoned the pressure was OK on both low and high pressure sides, with it not running. The clutch wasn't playing ball at the time so that's as far as we went.
The air lock suggestion is intriguing. That would account for all the symptoms seen thus far. Is that something anyone else has come across?
Thanks Sloth, that sounds like a sensible way to go with the aircon.
I might be utterly wide of the mark here, but given you've got a pipe within a pipe, presumably the inside pipe is the high pressure, and the gap between the two the low pressure.. If the low pressure isn't ridiculously high, what about patching the hole with rubber, I'm thinking something like an inner tube repair patch glued on all the way around, maybe with a piece of rubber pipe slit down the middle and put over the whole thing with cable ties to give it a bit of additional support. Would be cheap and cheerful, no risk of making the problem worse, and if it holds then job done. :)
Sounds like you were asking for the wrong thing :) The one that connects the swivels is a track rod, the one you got was indeed the drag link, from steering box to swivel.
Reminds me of a conversation I had at a garage recently, after I'd replaced my drag link. Guy asked me if I'd had it tracked since doing that, and I replied no, and he was insistent that it needs tracking after that being changed. I gave up trying to explain that it doesn't make an iota of difference to the tracking.
Both mine and Gordons made a bit of a thud when lowering down sometimes, like it's getting hung up on something then gives. Must be a very tiny hang up though as it doesn't physically jump much when it goes. Would be nice to figure out what it is.
Dragging this thread out of it's grave.. I need a nearside sunroof cable and guide, anyone got one on a defunct sunroof assembly they don't need?
Ain't that just typical luck!
Oh well. Need a new one now regardless, it got guillotined in the replacement process. :(
So I'm replacing the gearbox radiator on my 4.6, and heat was required for the pipe connections.
The temperature sensor took a tiny amount of heat itself, so I'd like to test that its working correctly still.
Is it an open/closed circuit style thermistor or a resistance based one?
Its currently short circuit, 0 ohms.
I'd like to check it goes open circuit at a sensible temperature, any idea what the threshold is?
Maybe we should hold it in Glasgow ;-)