O2 readings from on nanocom are laggy, so will show it switching, but not how quickly, unless its ultra slow.

Resistance is really just checking the solenoid coil is intact. Good to check but is purely an electrical test.

38.75% is its maximum adjustment on the short term trims. Will wait and see what gilbertd's testing shows

Interesting read. Where are you based?

I would put an oscilloscope on the o2 sensors and confirm that they're switching properly and at the right rate (roughly once a second).

You also mention the injectors are ok. Can you elaborate on that? It could be one or more of them is leaking slightly, which would result in over fuelling at idle, but much less of an impact under load.

There is, but it doesn't list the gems injector.

mad-as wrote:

(http://StanWeiss-electronic fuel compatability) is this what you are looking for
That link is broken..

Seemed alright to me.

Yes box out and completely disassembled. Checked each set for drag. It was the small set of flaps at the bottom of the box which were causing the majority of the drag.

If you have no air conditioning gas it's also worth pulling the box behind that out and dismantling/cleaning it. I cleaned a customers one recently which had enough leaf debris in it for a nest. Tried vacuuming it out with a long pick up tube without removal but it's nigh on impossible in situ to get much of it.

Google suggests that should be D1830GA.

Got my HT lead probes for the scope today, a quick test on my car suggests they're all firing about right, for the most part.

mad-as wrote:

when you say cleaned up the flaps do you mean you trimmed up the rubber edges around the flaps or modded the inside of the air box. the real issue is the box shrinks and the end float of the shafts dissapears this is where the problem is if the flaps are tight
ps when the lube dries it will fault again?

I trimmed the edges where they were visibly adding excessive drag, and added more end float in places by sanding back the box. Lube is silicon based so shouldn't dry out in a hurry.

Just checked a GEMS injector, it has D18306A stamped on the side of it.

Cheers Marty. Another job for indoors then. Better clear some space in the workshop :)

Hi folks,

Lock mechanism in my daily has gone US, no longer detects the door opening, closer doesn't seem to return on it's own properly (guessing broken spring or similar) and makes an awful metal against metal bang when closing.

I'm guessing it's not worth attempting to repair it, but are the rumours of the rear doors being pigs to work on true?

Yup, they are wired 'correctly'. Took the HEVAC unit apart and cleaned up the flaps, lubed them and trimmed them slightly to reduce friction. Calibrated fine afterwards. Hey ho. :)

Hi Brian,

Will need to test that when I get a chance. I'm pretty convinced that the fueling off idle is pretty close, but at low revs it's still rich. So my current thinking is dirty/leaking injectors on one or more cylinders. Need to build a test rig for them to check that theory.

Tried them on another car and could see a difference in intensity. On mine though I didn't see any noticeable difference.

Got the new coil pack today, and it made no difference whatsoever. :(

So back to square one.

I've pulled the hevac again and will sort the flaps out; they're not welded but there's room for improvement and the current from the motor is higher than I'm happy with, so that might help. The errors, when it was throwing them, were potentiometer faults rather than motor shorts, but with HEVAC, nothing is necessarily as it seems. :)

I'd expect the left and right hand flaps to be free, but the distribution flaps move three sets of flaps via gears, so those are never going to be movable with a finger flick.

Also the fact that the motor current is down at < 10mA implies it's not exactly being worked hard.
Think I'll check an unloaded motor to see what current it draws too for comparison.

I've got a set of those, hadn't really thought about using them for this though as I didn't expect to be able to see a difference. Will give that a shot, ta.

Lpgc wrote:

This is a bit after the event since you've bought new coil packs but...
Brian_H has mentioned using some sort of spark quality test equipment to identify failing coil packs on some of his cars.
Think I'm right in saying a P38 coil pack only has 3 LT input wires, would it be possible to swap the LT input wires and HT plug leads and see if the potential fault condition (sooty plugs) moves to the other set of plugs... I.e. swap which cylinders the good coil and the suspected dodgy coil (within a single coil pack) supply spark to. Or just swap the 2 coil pack positions lol... Going on memory I'm thinking they have 2 coil packs and each has 2 channels, each channel sparking 2 plugs.

That sounds like the Thor coil packs - GEMS has four coils, each feeding two plugs. I'd try that if the problem was more obvious, but a tiny bit of soot on a plug probably isn't going to be definitive, plus I don't know how long it'll take to soot up - the old plugs were at least a year old.

I might try hooking the oscilloscope up to the inputs to the coils, that might give some clues.

Gilbertd wrote:

What plugs are you using and how old are the leads? I reckon on NGK BPR6ES and change every 10,000 miles and generic 8mm HT leads (Island specials) and change every couple of years. On the old school Crypton tuner that had a proper CRT scope, that would show a higher voltage on cylinders that weren't running as efficiently as others. Might be worth a try if your scope can handle the voltage.

I'm using ERR3799NGK's from Island. Can't check the exact NGK part number without pulling one, but that part number sounds familiar. Also brand new generic HT leads from Island.

I'd need a heck of an attenuator to connect to my scope.