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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Yes and yes again.

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Does number 8 look steam cleaned to anyone else? :(

I don't have an IR thermometer, but I reckon really the only hose where air can collect measurably is the engine to LPG reducer to heater matrix pipes. That's where I put the bleed nipple.

Don't quite get how the air is supposed to get out of the heater matrix, since the output hose immediately drops 4 inches after coming out of the bulkhead. I bled that by pulling the hose off at the top. Seemed to work, with a fair amount of idling and fast idling.

Was really only after I took it out on the road I started getting the noise from the matrix pipes again.

OK so hevac checked and reassembled. Definitely not leaking from the matrix itself so that's good.

However, with it filled back up with coolant, and the air bled out as best I can tell, taking it for a spirited test drive results in.. Air being heard in the matrix pipes again :(

Hard to tell if its pressurising or not.

Heater output is being odd too. Driver side slightly warmer than before, passenger side tepid at best, whilst at low fan speeds. Higher fan speeds and output from the vents is fairly pointless.

And of course, new o rings on the matrix and its still leaking ever so slightly, no change from pre rad change there.

All in all, meh. Don't know where to go with it now really.

I'm not bothering about it; new rad is in and connected. Need to go to gemm tomorrow and get the o rings etc.

Hopefully the neoprene strip turns up tomorrow too then I can reseal the hevac and matrix before filling it up.

Gearbox cooler from front - LH side
Gearbox cooler from back - LH side

Gearbox it is then, looking at the pipes.

Dremel has evened the score. Rad out.

What's the lower of the two small ones? Looks a bit wet at one end, although that could just be from coolant off the main rad.

Scores at half time. Radiator 4, me nil.

One of the bottom bolts is just spinning, and with the two small rads in place and the viscous fan and cowling in there still, removing it is proving difficult.

Might see if I can dremel the head off the bolt.

Todays arrivals:

Deep 26mm socket to remove the knackered knock sensor.
Replacement washer motors from Furness.
Replacement coolant reservoir (bearmach branded).

If the weather permits later this afternoon, I'll make a start on fitting the coolant bits'n'bobs.

I wouldn't have thought the number of pictures involved would place much strain on disk space (or bandwidth), but if that does become a consideration, then it opens up an obvious reason for collecting donations.

The benefit of having them hosted here is that, in theory at least, people can disappear and the content doesn't vanish with them.

Aye I know about pasting images, couldn't be bothered by that stage. :)

Most of the welding on it looks fine, just a few bits which are a little unsightly. I don't really have time to return it now anyhow, so think I'll give it the benefit of the doubt and fit it.

Hopefully new reservoir arrives tomorrow then a quick trip to Gemm 4x4 for some more heater o-rings and exhaust to downpipe gaskets and I'll have everything I need to start this job again.

Pfft. Made me set up a new virtual host and install software and everything.

Direnza twin core aluminium radiator
Air-con fans from Furness
Inline 16mm bleed valve

I have a host, my own, I just don't like using the public ones ;)

Took the pipes off the air-con housing, and.. dry. I've not tried sticking something up the way to check it's not blocked there yet. And more weepage visible on the heater matrix pipes.

Deliveries starting to arrive today.

Inline bleed valve came first, branded Kalori. Looks tidy.

Replacement fan pack, fans spin by hand, not tried powering them yet, but I'm sure they'll be good.

New rad. Very shiny, but the welding leaves a little to be desired. Externally it's not too bad, although there is some skag around one of the top brackets, will need to see if that fouls on fitting. Internally, something is rattling, I'm guessing a bit of skag fell off in transit. Looking through the bottom pipe, there's a lot of skag from welding in there, not blocking the pipe but not pretty at all.

I might take some photos later if I can be bothered with the faff of uploading.

Gordon, rebuilding the lock barrel is probably worthy of a topic/sticky all of it's own..

Re water in the footwell, I wonder if it's actually the A/C drain(s) blocked, since I've been messing around with the HEVAC a lot. Pretty sure the air con actually works in this car (or did prior to engine disassembly). Will have to check the drains tomorrow in daylight.

Oh the other new fault that it's exhibiting is that it's not parking the rear wiper. It's just stopping randomly in the middle of the screen. Thoughts?

Cheers Martyuk, that swings it for me. Norfolk folks it is.

I'm not worring about going back in. The dash is still resembling a T1000 so getting at everything is trivial.

Could be right about air getting in there, but equally it could just be the pressure that's blowing past the O-rings at the same time as it blows out in the engine bay. I'm pretty certain the water on the carpet isn't coolant, as the coolant is a nice red colour, and this water isn't. The couple of drops of coolant on the heater matrix don't appear to have made their way further down either.

No audi core mod here, thanks. :P