Todays progress, albeit backwards.

Front bumper off, and started dismantling things to get the fans out and the main rad ready for removal. I'll drain it once I have the replacement in my hands, just in case I need to move the vehicle before then.

Fans came off, one does actually spin, both by hand and under power, but it's stiff and a little graunchy. The other one is welded, and even applying a direct 12 volt feed to it from the battery did nothing more than produce pretty sparks.

Top two bolts came undone ok, but the bottom two sheared, and they aren't coming out unless I can get to the back of the air con condenser after removing the main rad. Even then, I'm not holding my breath.

Windscreen washer pump seems to have given up the ghost in the last few weeks, so checked all three pumps, and two of them are dead (windscreen and headlight washers). More bits to buy, yay. Am I safe going second hand from the place in Norfolk, or should I not skimp and just go new on these?

In the cabin, noticed a tiny weep of red coolant coming down from the joint onto the heater matrix, so will have to get back into that once the coolant has been drained. Given that I've used new seals, any thoughts on how else to fix this? Copious amounts of goo?

Carpet is very slightly damp again too on the drivers side, but I think (hope) that's rainwater as the scuttle panel is off for access to the bolts holding the dash framework in place.

Ebay suggests its OEM, going by one random hit I landed on.

I've ordered a 16mm inline bleeder to stick in that hose (it's already reduced from 22mm for the LPG reducer).

Ordered, along with a new header tank.

Has anyone tried putting an inline bleed nipple in on the heater matrix feed?

Do the dimensions of that Direnza one look about right to those that've seen a rad out?

I can feel a phone call and a big order going in to that guy.

Ta. Best replace the two fans whilst I'm in there too. One is seized and the other incredibly tight.

Suggestions for good radiator brands then? Island only have britpart.

Gordon suggested a few posts back putting the front off side wheel on a ramp to raise the header tank.

My badly worded question was whether the vehicle would sit at an angle as desired, or whether it would level itself out?

Would a ramp work, or will it level itself off?

Dash is still in pieces so I can visually inspect the blend motors and the flap positions. They are where they should be.

It just occurred to me that I've not screwed the two halves together yet (got distracted during reassembly), so that might be allowing air to escape. Will check that tomorrow. Not convinced the gap is big enough to prevent any heat pickup though.

The hose isn't the issue. I replaced it with a land rover original so have two hoses now both of which are fine.

The issue is that the bleed pipe outlet on the rad was previously snapped off, and someone has put a piece of copper pipe in the hole, threaded on the one end so it screws in. The copper pipe is ever so slightly narrower than either hose. I even tried sticking a bit of fuel hose on there which was a much tighter fit, and it still ends up spraying out under pressure.

I could change the rad, but it was working in this configuration before, so it really should still work. And I have no confidence that changing it will make any difference.

There's the LPG reducer, I could remove that. But its always roasting hot once engine is warm, so doubt its the problem.

Also, the hevac is pretty steadfastly refusing to put out any heat, blend motors are working fine but temperature at vents doesn't change. Pipes into and out of the heater are hot. Inlet is roasting, outlet slightly less so. Hevac temperature sender agrees with dash and agrees with my hand when pipe is touched.

Half tempted to buy one of the vacuum filler things, but they are expensive and, again, my confidence is low.

Sigh.

The connection between the radiator and the bleed hose isn't ideal, due to a previous owners bodge. That joint ends up with fluid spraying out after driving it. Could that also be allowing air back in, or air locking the bleed hose?

The hose itself has been blown through with an air line, and the jet is as clear as I can achieve. There is some flow through it, but not as much as on Gordon's.

Right getting a bit narked with this coolant issue now. Nothing I do seems to make the blindest bit of difference.

Thanks ferryman, reckon a deep 26 would go on? I ask because its supposed to be torqued up on fitting.

Aye, me and Gordon had at it for a fair while but either couldn't get all the air, or more is getting in somewhere.

Unrelated, anyone know what size socket is needed for the knock sensor? Turns out that's also been previously bodged by someone on the right hand bank.

Well, it lives. That's the good news.

Some blue smoke under full throttle in sport, although that may have been clearing up as time went on. Got dark though so couldn't see as well.

More immediately though, the main issue is the coolant. I'm not sure if it just needs more bleeding, but every time the throttle is blipped, you can hear bubbles in the pipes from the heater matrix. Also, the big top hose is pressurising.

Hoping that it isn't something up with the head gaskets. :(

Cheered up slightly by the lovely noise it makes whilst giving it a leaden foot. :)

I don't speak for anyone else here but myself; I don't have an issue with you having that link in your sig Marty.

I've had the battery off mine plenty of late due to doing the heads etc, and have found it can be a bit reluctant to recognise the key in the barrel. I pretty much just keep turning it off and on and perhaps pull the key a few times and pressing the button, and it seems to wake up and decide I can play after all fairly quickly.

I'm sure there's a technique to it someone else around here can explain, but whatever it is, it might be worth trying that.

Excuse my ignorance, but what does RTV stand for?

I'll know they're tidy, though.. ;)

Besides, it's a Rangey, forever is about 2 weeks.