Has he broken his compression tester....?
I had exactly that problem when testing the compression on my 4.0. Borrowed a friend's compression tester and couldn't get compression readings on several cylinders. Then I remembered I had my own compression tester hidden away and using it, found compression to be good across the board.
I had that happen when swapping the wheels over from my old Range Rover to the new one. I eventually sorted it by placing some large rocks in front of the the offending wheel, Putting the wheel nuts on but not tight and driving back and forth over the rocks several times.
With respect to the injector upgrade - this only applies to GEMs engines. The point of the upgrade isn't to have "bigger" injectors but to upgrade from the older style single pintle injectors to the Gen III 4 pintle injectors. The later injectors atomize the fule much better than the earlier ones which tend to shoot it out in a stream. In theory you should see slight gains in fuel economy, engine responsiveness and emissions. Of course, unless you've recently had your standard injectors overhauled and cleaned, it's possible that much of the gains are simple due to swapping fresh injectors in place.
I'm going to be swapping some Gen III injectors out of my old 4L into my HSE and will let you know what sort changes I see - I can't tell you whether or not they improved the old engine substantially as it also got a cylinder head swap and new camshaft at the same time. After much research I found the best match for flow and the correct impedence were a set of injectors out of a Volvo 960 24v straight six.
If your RR has the Thor engine, it will already have the more modern injectors.
The near side front balljoint on my car has suddenly decided to go dangerously floppy (after passing the MOT with flying colours five months ago) and I've just dicovered that the guy I used in the past for this job has retired. I've more than enough broken down cars already to keep me occupied so I'm not going to take it on myself. Can anyone recommend a reliable shop in or near South Somerset who can be trusted to do this job at a reasonable cost?
I've arranged for a local(ish) garage to do the job as it's currently our only car and I can't afford to have something go wrong and leave us stranded.
I've replaced the passenger door latch as I assumed that was the source of the original problem, but I didn't know that key code lockout disabled central locking. I'll let it sit and give it a try. If it doesn't work, would it be possible for me to bring the BECM up to you tomorrow?
I've got a dead Range Rover (1995) thanks to the dreaded key code lockout. Unfortunately the central locking isn't working so I can't enter the EKA. The problem first manifested itself as the passenger door not unlocking on the key. The other doors all unlocked. However the rear doors are now super locked. The front door and tailgate both unlock when I use the key. I can also hear a click coming from the drivers rear door when I lock it with the key.
I've tested both front door latches per Martyuk's excellent guide and everything checks out. I've also replaced the door outstations just in case. Still nothing. A couple of months ago I pulled the trouble codes using my Lynx Diagnostics and it did show no coms with the door outstation and no coms with the centre console. My best guess is that there is a bad connection between the BECM and the front passenger door outstation. Is there any particularly likely spot for the loom to fail?
Also, is there anyone nearby to South Somerset who can unlock the alarm? Apparently the Faultmate MSV-2 can disarm the alarm, but only if I buy the Multi-Vehicle software module which puts the price at somewhere around £900!
Everything works in the driver's door. Window and mirror work on passenger door but central locking doesn't.
My problem was that I didn't realize that when it is in keycode lockout, turning the key doesn't unlock any of the doors other than the drivers door. So even though I'd changed the faulty latch in the passenger door I was still under the impression that something was wrong as the key wouldn't operate that latch until the vehicle was allowed to come out of the keycode lockout.
All sorted now. Just needed to wait for the alarm to come out of the advanced lockout state. Thanks for all your advice.
I mean out of the key-code-lockout-rear-doors-superlocked-damn-these-cars-can-be-frustrating state.
Yes, I hooked up the battery yesterday morning, left it and came back and entered the EKA. No indication it was working (no sidemarkers flashing) until I unlocked for the last time and the rear doors unlocked.
Starts... and even drives. Now to sort out some niggles before the MOT and eight months after I started my top end rebuild (famous last words... "This should only take a few weeks dear.") I'll finally have a useable Range Rover again.
Ordered a reman one off of eBay. Should be here Tuesday.
Mine just failed this evening. If you're in Somerset, Devon, Dorset, I could collect this weekend.
I've heard bad things about the RTX alternators so it looks like it'll be the Denso. And won't be able to get before Tuesday earliest. :(
The LCD on my message centre/odometer display isn't illuminating. I've changed the bulbs that provide back lighting but still nothing. The messages/mileage is displaying as I can barely make it out at night with lights on.
Any suggestions as to what the underlying problem is?
I've replaced the bulbs with new ones though the old ones looked OK. Instruments illuminate as they should and warning lights too.
I've tried cleaning the bulbs and have also swapped them for known good bulbs/holders. and still no dice. i'm suspecting the wiring between the dash and the BECM.
I knew the battery in the my key fob was failing. This morning I had trouble unlocking the car and when I went to do the school run this afternoon it wouldn't at all. Popped into the hardware and grabbed some new batteries but now it won't start at all. I'm getting an engine-disabled, press remote or enter keycode. Unfortunately neither pressing the remote nor entering the EKA is working. I suspect the key's not synced and I'm going to double check the keycode with the dealer, though i'm pretty sure I've used the EKA in the past. Unlocking the driver's door with the key unlocks the bootlid, but nothing else.
I've had the door panel off and it appears that someone has replaced the original latch with the later style one with the extra harness (the car's an M-Reg so it should have the early latch).
There has been a "whirring" noise coming from the driver's latch for the past few weeks when I unlock on the remote.
I've got a multimeter and can test it but the car's parked on a busy road three miles from home so I didn't have time this evening. Before I start on that, any advice?