The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
53 posts

Ahh, that could be it. I've always thought it was the unlock EAS button to clear faults.

I'm trying to get my 1994 HSE back on the road this year but my first job - sorting out the EAS is not going to plan. My EAS system as always had trouble communicating with the software but I was able to establish that the likely culprit was a duff height sensor. I've since replaced the sensor but the now the software is bringing up a whole bunch of fault codes, which I believe is indicative of a communications problem, and it refuses to clear them. In all other ways the software seems to be working. i can actuate the pump, and the various messages, I can get my height sensor readings etc. The Tx/Rx values appear to be correct.

Any suggestions?

I don't know what year in question the Range Rover is but if it's an earlier one, a possible engine conversion option would be a Jaguar AJ16 6 cylinder. They're bomb proof, run Lucas SAGEM engine management and were most commonly bolted to 4HP-22 or 4HP-24 automatics. The N/A 4.0 has 240 HP, and the Supercharged 6 from the XJR ahas 320ish. The only question is whether it will squeeze into the engine bay.

So I went and had a look. Car is a lot better in person than the pictures make it look. I arrived to find all the tyres pumped up. I even got to take it for short drive.

The Interior is in fantastic condition. The steering wheel has chipped wood and worn leather and the headlining is sagging but the seats, carpet, and trim are excellent. Front seats have very light wear. HVAC working fine with no book symbol. I tried the front windows and both went up and down OK. No error messages on dash (146,000 miles)


The Body is straight. There's a small scrape on the corner of the OS Front wing, and the lower tail gate is corroded. Doors are good as is the uppper tail gate. The LPG filler is behind the petrol filler cap.


It was out of gas so I wasn't able to test that. The engine fired up straight away from cold. There was a ticking noise that concerned me but it appeared to be coming not from the engine but from the tensioner pulley and it went away shortly after. Other than that and a slight blow in the exhaust (noticeable from the nearside) the engine ran very quietly thought it seemed a little lumpy to me thought that may just be down to it sitting for several years. Air Suspension all works as it should. It has had replacement rear bags and a replacement/rebuilt compressor and there's a pair of new front bags sitting in the boot. The brakes seemed a little weak and it pumped away for a bit on start up so it may need an accumulator, but again this may just be down to it sitting for several years. The tyres hold air but are mismatched brands and will need replacing. I only drove it up the lane and back but it tramlines - certainly the tyres are a part cause of this, but who knows, may need some front suspension work. It needs windscreen wiper blades though the washer works as do the wipers.

The story behind the car is that the current owner bought it from a coworker in January 2019 but then found a hideous Toyota Hilux that he really wanted so this has sat since then. The chap he bought it from had it for several years and has had the cylinder heads done amongst other things. It was parked up for a couple of years while he and his wifer were travelling and when he came back it had a supension fault. He replaced ithe rear bags whereupon he discovered the compressor wasn't working and gave up, selling it on to the current owner.

The car has been off the road since 2016 but has not failed an MOT and the MOT history looks pretty clearn. Reg is W996KNN if you want to check it yourself.

I think it's a good honest solid car with some service and repair history. The only things that worry me a little are that it has a battery cut off switch under the bonnet by the battery which suggests there may be a battery drain issue, and there's a mess of wires in the boot where there was a play station hooked up (it has screens in the headrests. That said it wasn't throwing any error messages so it's probably nothing that can't be sorted easily enough.

I need another vehicle like I need a hole in the head so somebody do me a favour and buy it before I do.

I've got far too many vehicles making demands on my time and my wallet otherwise I'd be all over this. I'll probably still go take a look as it's not too far from me. 2000 Vogue on LPG. Looks tidy but little information.


I think it's the original interior, just the photos are giving it a sort of brownish tinge. Westminster's were a dark grey leather.

I came across this 2002 Range Rover on the Copart website if anyone is interested. Low mileage, uncategorized, and looks to be cosmetic damage. It's located at Copart Westbury.

I've arranged for a local(ish) garage to do the job as it's currently our only car and I can't afford to have something go wrong and leave us stranded.

The near side front balljoint on my car has suddenly decided to go dangerously floppy (after passing the MOT with flying colours five months ago) and I've just dicovered that the guy I used in the past for this job has retired. I've more than enough broken down cars already to keep me occupied so I'm not going to take it on myself. Can anyone recommend a reliable shop in or near South Somerset who can be trusted to do this job at a reasonable cost?

With respect to the injector upgrade - this only applies to GEMs engines. The point of the upgrade isn't to have "bigger" injectors but to upgrade from the older style single pintle injectors to the Gen III 4 pintle injectors. The later injectors atomize the fule much better than the earlier ones which tend to shoot it out in a stream. In theory you should see slight gains in fuel economy, engine responsiveness and emissions. Of course, unless you've recently had your standard injectors overhauled and cleaned, it's possible that much of the gains are simple due to swapping fresh injectors in place.

I'm going to be swapping some Gen III injectors out of my old 4L into my HSE and will let you know what sort changes I see - I can't tell you whether or not they improved the old engine substantially as it also got a cylinder head swap and new camshaft at the same time. After much research I found the best match for flow and the correct impedence were a set of injectors out of a Volvo 960 24v straight six.

If your RR has the Thor engine, it will already have the more modern injectors.

They gave me the EKA over the phone. It must be my dashing good looks.

Thanks, sounds reasonably simple.

I have another cluster. How hard is it to swap the mileage chip or replace the MOSFET for that matter?

It looks like I may have a solution to the problem! When I bought the car the card with the EKA code was missing from the owners's manual. The seller told me that he believed the EKA was the same as the radio code which was written on the inside cover of the owner's manual. I phoned up my local Landrover dealer today and as it turns out the codes are not the same (they're very similar so I can understand why the guy I bought it from misremembered).

I've used Marty's door latch test before on my old P38. Thanks for the reminder about the bonnet though as one of the two catches is sticky and does not always do its job. Will check in the morning.

Is it repairable?

I knew the battery in the my key fob was failing. This morning I had trouble unlocking the car and when I went to do the school run this afternoon it wouldn't at all. Popped into the hardware and grabbed some new batteries but now it won't start at all. I'm getting an engine-disabled, press remote or enter keycode. Unfortunately neither pressing the remote nor entering the EKA is working. I suspect the key's not synced and I'm going to double check the keycode with the dealer, though i'm pretty sure I've used the EKA in the past. Unlocking the driver's door with the key unlocks the bootlid, but nothing else.

I've had the door panel off and it appears that someone has replaced the original latch with the later style one with the extra harness (the car's an M-Reg so it should have the early latch).

There has been a "whirring" noise coming from the driver's latch for the past few weeks when I unlock on the remote.

I've got a multimeter and can test it but the car's parked on a busy road three miles from home so I didn't have time this evening. Before I start on that, any advice?

I've tried cleaning the bulbs and have also swapped them for known good bulbs/holders. and still no dice. i'm suspecting the wiring between the dash and the BECM.

I've replaced the bulbs with new ones though the old ones looked OK. Instruments illuminate as they should and warning lights too.