I came across this 2002 Range Rover on the Copart website if anyone is interested. Low mileage, uncategorized, and looks to be cosmetic damage. It's located at Copart Westbury.
My current 1995 4.0 having been written off on the street in front of my house by a young lad who'd had a few too many, I'm in the market for another P38. I'd prefer a 4.6 on LPG. I'm going to look at one tomorrow, but thought I should check and see if anybody on here has one they'd like to part with.
My name's Drew and I own a 1995 base model Range Rover 4.0 who I've named Calamity Jane. You can guess how she got that name. She's currently dead thanks to the dreaded key code lockout and non-functioning central locking. This is doubly frustrating as I just swapped in a high lift cam and some Turner gas-flowed cylinder heads. I'm in South Somerset.
The near side front balljoint on my car has suddenly decided to go dangerously floppy (after passing the MOT with flying colours five months ago) and I've just dicovered that the guy I used in the past for this job has retired. I've more than enough broken down cars already to keep me occupied so I'm not going to take it on myself. Can anyone recommend a reliable shop in or near South Somerset who can be trusted to do this job at a reasonable cost?
The LCD on my message centre/odometer display isn't illuminating. I've changed the bulbs that provide back lighting but still nothing. The messages/mileage is displaying as I can barely make it out at night with lights on.
Any suggestions as to what the underlying problem is?
I knew the battery in the my key fob was failing. This morning I had trouble unlocking the car and when I went to do the school run this afternoon it wouldn't at all. Popped into the hardware and grabbed some new batteries but now it won't start at all. I'm getting an engine-disabled, press remote or enter keycode. Unfortunately neither pressing the remote nor entering the EKA is working. I suspect the key's not synced and I'm going to double check the keycode with the dealer, though i'm pretty sure I've used the EKA in the past. Unlocking the driver's door with the key unlocks the bootlid, but nothing else.
I've had the door panel off and it appears that someone has replaced the original latch with the later style one with the extra harness (the car's an M-Reg so it should have the early latch).
There has been a "whirring" noise coming from the driver's latch for the past few weeks when I unlock on the remote.
I've got a multimeter and can test it but the car's parked on a busy road three miles from home so I didn't have time this evening. Before I start on that, any advice?
I've got a dead Range Rover (1995) thanks to the dreaded key code lockout. Unfortunately the central locking isn't working so I can't enter the EKA. The problem first manifested itself as the passenger door not unlocking on the key. The other doors all unlocked. However the rear doors are now super locked. The front door and tailgate both unlock when I use the key. I can also hear a click coming from the drivers rear door when I lock it with the key.
I've tested both front door latches per Martyuk's excellent guide and everything checks out. I've also replaced the door outstations just in case. Still nothing. A couple of months ago I pulled the trouble codes using my Lynx Diagnostics and it did show no coms with the door outstation and no coms with the centre console. My best guess is that there is a bad connection between the BECM and the front passenger door outstation. Is there any particularly likely spot for the loom to fail?
Also, is there anyone nearby to South Somerset who can unlock the alarm? Apparently the Faultmate MSV-2 can disarm the alarm, but only if I buy the Multi-Vehicle software module which puts the price at somewhere around £900!
Mine just failed this evening. If you're in Somerset, Devon, Dorset, I could collect this weekend.