hi Richard, yes I could have done the panhard bushes without making special tools but while I was on the lathe, making the tools for the front arms, and I had some material in stock I just made the correct tools to do the job. I will probable never use them again but you never know. Next I have to pull the rear diff assembly out of another P38 I have that has a Maxi Drive (locking Diff ),overhaul it and swap it into my P38. Sounds easy when you say it quickly.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Folks,
I had a interesting week, so to speak. I took my P38 down to my mates workshop and got it up on the hoist to replace all the suspension bushes, ball joints, etc. First up I removed the front arms and pressed out the front bushes, then I realized I would need to make some special tools to be able to press the new bushes in. So that was the rest of Monday taken care of, making tools to press the front and rear arm bushes out and in, and the panhard rod bushes out and back in. So then on Tuesday I replaced all those bushes and started on the ball joints and front axle seals. Wednesday I finished the Ball joints and tidied up a few other bits. Thursday I cleaned up my mess and and took the old girl for a test drive. The ABS light stayed on, so I plugged in the scan tool and it said the air gap on the left front sensor was too wide, so I gave it a bit of a push and a wriggle and the problem was fixed. I went home feeling pretty happy with my work. The car sounds a lot quieter on the road, and feels a bit firmer to drive. All in all I am very happy with the result. And Friday was declared a rest day.
Regards, Alan
Hi Folks, I got my Range Rover up on the hoist and removed the front arms, and pushed the bushes out. Then I looked at pressing the new ones in and I realized I would need some special tools. So I want home to the lathe and spent the rest of the day machining up the special tools I need to finish the front arms. So I haven't had time to get back to the EAS. Harv I will make a NRV for my valve block and see how much of a PITA it is. I know it will be fiddly, being so small but doable. Then I will think about making more. I have recently retired and was looking forward to working on my vintage bikes. About 74 of them. So far I have not touched one of them, but it hasn't been 12 months since I retired.
Regards, Alan
Hi Folks, Well I pulled the NRV out and I found that the one that goes in the opposite way to the other 2 was broken, the little pin was broken. I am not sure if I broke it or it just broke on its own accord. But the air suspension just started playing up on the way home from a trip. So I went looking for another valve block. I found one in a big box of parts I got from a wrecker. I just put it on my P38 and tested it, and it worked perfect. But it is of unknown quality, so I will make a new NRV and reassemble my original valve block and then try it on my vehicle. So I had time find all the tools I think I will need to replace all the suspension parts and load them in to my P38, so I am ready to go in the morning. Thanks for all your help, and I will keep you informed about any progress.
Regards,
Alan
Thanks Richard and Pete12345, lots of good information there. I am off to the shed to do battle with my valve blocks. I am hoping to get it fixed today as I have a hoist reserved at my mates workshop to replace the ball joints, panhard rod bushes, trailing arm bushes and steering damper etc. At worst I can pump it up with the emergency valves and get back to the valve block later.
Thanks very much gents, regards, Alan
Hi Pete12345, I must have missed your post last night. Thank you very much for your diagnosis. That is exactly what I was hoping for some real directions to follow. I will check the non return valves first thing tomorrow morning, then I will check all the other valves.
Thank you very much, Alan
Hi Richard, Well I spent the day working on the Range Rover in the rain. At least the rain was warm, 33c at the moment, in Queensland Australia. I made up an air line with a tap and a pressure gauge and a non return valve and a schrader valve in the line from the compressor to the valve block. After a lot of testing I came up with the same as your suggestion, the diaphragm. So I removed the valve block and took it into the shed and looked carefully at the diaphragm. It did not look that bad, but it was a little loose in the recess. I then started reading the overhaul instructions for the valve block and I realized that the little cover plate is missing. I checked the 2 spare valve blocks and they are the same, no cover plates.So it looks I will be machining up a replacement cover. Only problem is I don't have one to copy so it will be a bit of a guess as to exact sizes go, but a rainy day working on the lathe will not be that bad. I thank you very much for your suggestion. I will let you know how I get on with it.
Regards, Alan
Hi Gilbertd,
thanks for your reply. It is dumping it out of the little muffler. I have a gauge connected to the tank and it dumps all the air.
Thanks, Alan
Hi Folks, I have been having problems with my EAS lately. When I turn the engine off and the air pump stops working the valve opens and dumps all the air out of the tank. But all the air bags stay pumped up. I have checked the valve block and it all looks good. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Alan
Hi redp38,
one thing I don't think anyone has mentioned is the thermal overload switch on the compressor. With the small charge you had in the system there would be no cooling gasses getting back to the compressor to keep it cool therefore the discharge temperature would go sky high and trigger the thermal overload switch that would cut the power to the clutch. If the climate control module was expecting to see a load on that circuit and it did not see that load it could trigger a fault. Also if the system only had 300 odd grams of refrigerant in it I would be looking for were it got out. Condenser, evaporator, discharge hose ETC. Am I sounding like a TAFE teacher ?
Regards,
Alan
Hi Mate, yes I had to change mine when I got my Range Rover P38, as the handle was broken when a purchased the vehicle. I got the handle out and measured the diameter of the roll pin and then I bought a packet of drill bits that size. I clamped the handle in the drill press and drilled out the roll pins and then just swapped over the barrels. You will need to get some more roll pins if you don't have any. The local bearing shop over here carries them.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Gilbert, OK, thanks. I will order some and get them on the old girl. Some times when I start off in the morning she lists a bit to starboard. She comes good after a few bumps or hard corners, so I am thinking a set of height sensors will fix this problem. I am running out of parts to replace.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Folks, I am thinking of replacing the height sensors on my 1995 P38. I see the later ones ( 1997 to 2002 ) are more readily available and cheaper than the early ones.
Can the later ones be retrofitted to the earlier vehicles and what would be involved?
Thanks,
Alan
Hi Gilbert,
the cabin air temp sensor sits above the cubby hole and draws air through a hole in the top of the cubby hole. The reason the fault light is on, on the HEVAC unit is a fault with the fresh recirc door motors, and I just haven't had time to get back to them, I have had 8 lots of surgery to remove skin cancer, Maligant melanoma . So the days when I have feeling good, and being able to get in and do some work on the P38 have very limited. I will put up a story on the installation of the head unit soon, now I think I know how to post photos.
Regards,
Alan Temperley
Hi Guys, Hopefully these will work. I wasn't waiting long enough for the image to load before linking it to the post.
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Hi Gilbert, OK, I will repost them tonight. Did the first two photos show up. I don't know why they aren't showing up.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Folks, Now I know why at work I have a PA, admim. staff and an IT guy. But I did get some photos to attach to this post. So I am very happy with myself.
Regards, Alan Temperley
It was a bit hard to get a good photo with the glare but you will get the idea. The tow ball is in the right side of the view. (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51302878215_581a098f55_m.jpg "enter image title here")
This is a photo of the lower camera. It was mounted on the vehicle when I purchased. (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51301858226_445a7e3f24_m.jpg "enter image title here")
This is how the camera is mounted. I don't even notice it there now.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51302878920_c2c76daa01_m.jpg "enter image title here")
