Hi Gilbert,
Thanks for that. I did read somewhere that the light would go out after you had cleaned the faulty connection. I will go and plug the scan tool in and see if the light stays off after I clear the fault.
Regards,
Alan

Hi folks, today I though I would tackle the SRS light that stays on. How hard could it be. First I cleaned the plugs for the 2 air bags. Light was still on. next I cleaned the connector behind the R/S kick panel. Light was still on. Then I cleaned the connections on the 2 crash sensors under the bonnet. Light was still on. Next I went looking for the SRS module under the console allegedly. I ended up going to where I have my parts car and followed the yellow cable to the back of the console and there in a secret spot, under the insulation, known to Range Rover assembly line workers is hidden the air bag module. So tomorrow I can clean wiring plug and the module connections. If that does not fix the problem then the only thing left is the clock spring. Could the clock spring be faulty when the horn and the stereo controls all work as they should?
Regards, Alan

Hi Lads, thanks for your kind words. I have been tinkering with the Rangie, but not doing anything that might pull stitches. The first time I had skin cancer cut out of my left leg I tried to do too much, I pulled most of the 36 stitches and I got it infected. Doctor was not happy. I was digging a trench to run power, water and data to my shed. Working in the rain and mud. Dumb shit, in hindsight. I now have the biggest ugly scar to remind me to take it easy, when the doc says to take it easy. I have 3 more skin cancers to get cut out after this one heals up so I am going to be off work for a while yet. This is the punishment you get for spending your younger days fishing, crabbing, swimming, surfing, diving and just spending too much time on the beach in the sun. But it was fun.
Regards, Alan

Hi Gilbert,
yes the blowers work. It is the recirc. motors that come up on the scan tool as 'loss of power, permanent fault '. I am feeling a little better tonight after the operation yesterday. So I will plug the scan tool in after a good nights sleep and clear all the faults and see what comes back. I am reluctant to start crawling around under the dash as I don't want to pull any stitches out of my back. The Doctor was very clear about going home and doing nothing at all. But plugging in the scan tool should be OK. I will let you know what I find, as I did clean the connection to the left side recirc. motor. Interested to see if that made any difference.
Regards,
Alan

Hi Gilbert,
OK, I found the wiring diagram with the fresh/ recirc motors. It looks like the power comes out of the HEVAC unit and then returns back to the HEVAC unit, and most likely earth switched through a transistor. So it looks like I will be pulling the glove box again so I can see what is going on. Then I will have a chance to check the part numbers on the Wabco computers. But not for a few days, The stitches in my back are giving me hell today.
Thanks,
Alan

Hi Gilbert, That is a good point, I never checked the part numbers when I changed them over I had a bit on my mind that day. The one I put in was out of a 1998 model , and it seems to be working OK so I think I will leave it alone for now and work on one of the other issues this vehicle has. The climate control unit has a fault saying perment loss of power to the fresh/recirc motors. Do you know where the fresh/ recirc motors get their power from?
Thanks,
Alan

Hi Folks,
well I have had some success. As the passenger side of the car was in the shade I though I would start there. I removed the glove box and and changer the Wabco computer mounted on the firewall. I cleaned the airbag connector and the connector and the connector to the fresh/recirc motor connector and I also cleaned the OBD plug, and refitted the glovebox and went for a drive. SUCCESS, the speedo works, and the EAS seemed to working also. But I have gained a TC light on the dash. But I have not plugged in the scan tool and cleared all the faults. Not too bad of a result, considering I have both hands bandaged up and right foot and leg bandaged up as well as bandages on my back where I have had skin cancer cut out. Back in tomorrow morning for another operation to remove some more. At least I can drive there in the P38. I might get back to it later in the week when I am feeling a bit better.
Regards, Alan

Hi Gilbert,
yes it looks like it might all be connected. I will start with the OBD connector. Like you said I can't do much until I have communications. I do have a spare ABS computer, so I could try changeing that..
Thanks, Alan

Hi everyone, now I have my 1995 P38 going with a rebuilt motor etc. the speedo has not been working. The scan tool says speed sensor input out of range or something similar. Is there any way of telling which sensor is out of range, or should I just replace them all. I have another vehicle I could pull them from. Also another problem that may be speed related. While I was working on the my P38 I thought I would replace all the air bags, and I rebuilt the compressor and the valve block. And I made up and fitted a manual inflation set of valves. And a isolation switch to cut the earth to the relay under the passenger side seat. So when I got it going the air suspension seemed to work sitting in the yard, up and down. But when I took it for a drive, when I got up a bit of speed it dropped to the bump stops. So now I am driving the vehicle with the EAS turned off as when I turn it on it now drops the drivers side down to the bump stops and pumps the passenger side up to max height. Also I have an odometer error coming up on the message screen. Could all these be related? Also the scan tool has lost communication with the vehicle.
Thanks, Alan

Hi Dave,
I have read somewhere that the glass can be separated from the body with a heat gun. Carefully. I think it may have been on the AULRO site. Regards, Alan

Hi Gilbertd,
OK, that sounds like I can make it work. I am fitting the same wide screen head that Martin (Marty UK) has fitted and did a write up on this site. It has taken a while but I am getting towards the end now. I will do a write up with photos when I get finished. Thanks Gilbertd.
Regards,
Alan

Hi folks,
could anyone tell me the colour of the wires that go to the steering wheel controls on a 1995 P38. I have fitted an aftermarket head unit and I don;t seem to be able to get them to work. Although it could be operator error.
Regards,
Alan

Hi Gilbert, OK, thanks. I might bight the bullet and buy the one for sale over here. I see there are some P38 ones for sale in the UK but with the exchange rate and freight and the risk of the glass getting broken. I would prefer to buy one over here in Australia. Regards, Alan

Hi Guys,
can anyone tell me if the sunroof from a L322 Range Rover will fit into a 1995 P38? Mine is rusted out around the frame that holds the glass. And the only one I can find at the moment is one out of a L322.
Thanks,
Alan

Hi Gilbert, I will have a go at modifying the Chinese radiator I have and see how it looks. If I am not 100% happy with it I might have to take you up on your offer and get a Direnza radiator sent over to Oz. I only started to race Vintage motocross when my oldest son became interested in racing. I still like to have a bit of a race but work has been in the way the last few years. I have a highly modified YZ 125, that I like racing. I am normally last off the line and first out of the first corner. It is lightning fast, it scares the shit out of me. But I love it, it is so good to ride. My oldest son did quite well when he was racing. He won some Queensland titles and 3rd in the Australian titles.

Hi Mad as,
yes they take a lot of time. Much to my wife's disgust. I and I forgot a few, I have a couple of Ossa Phantom's and a couple of Montesa VB Cappra"s. They are just my pets. I started with just some Vintage Motocross bikes to race and it sort of got out of control. I keep saying I am not going to buy any more, until the next one comes along that I just can't live without. I have never got to Nabiac museum, but I would to get there one day. I checked with Direnza and they won't ship to Australia. I have a Chinese alloy Radiator but the bottom outlet is not quite correct, so I will have a look at modifying it this week. Where are you based? In the UK or Australia. If it does not work out I will let you know and I might need to look at getting a Direnza sent to me.

Hi Mad as. Yes I have collected a few old dirt bikes. I think at the moment I have 74, not quite sure as I am sure the breed when the shed is closed at night. Mostly early motocross bikes, with a couple of enduro bikes thrown in. There is a lot of Maico's, Can am's, Husky's, Honda's, Suzuki's, Yamaha's Kawasaki's, and a Hercules. I think that about all of them. We did a lot of Vintage Motocross a few back, but not as much the last few years. Regards, Alan

Thanks for the input guys. I forgot to put in the original post that I am currently working on a 1995 P38 with a compression ratio of 9.8:1 , and I live in central Queensland in Australia so I am looking for something with some added performance. Summer temperatures are around 40c. The Chinese ones off a 20% increase in volume, which might help.

Hi Folks,
does anyone have any experience with the Chinese full alloy radiators that are advertised on ebay?

Hi,
with out the camshaft gear bolted up there is nothing to stop the camshaft moving rearwards until it hits the rear plug. hence the 5mm of movement. Bolt the camshaft gear up tight and recheck the end float, I am sure you will find it will be with in spec.