The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
22 posts
Mar 31 2018
04 April 2018 - 11:45

Being a little bored over the weekend I had a look at the cost of mechanically owning my P38 over the last eleven years.
So far it's up to about £9100 and in all fairness that includes,
Top hat short engine including new oil pump
Replacement Bristols Auto Gearbox and associated cooler and pipe work
Virtually a complete brake overhaul including washer upgrade to the modulator (parts ordered ready for next week lol)
ACT Carbon fibre inlet trumpets
Tornado chip ECU
Light mist respray
Both front wheel bearings
Fuse box
120 Amp Alternator
Starter motor
Mild steel exhaust
Engine Radiator
General Grabber AT tyres
Viscous coupling (transfer box)
1000CA Battery
Poly bushes (blue)

Then there's the smaller things like,
Water pump and viscous fan
Mud Pod and engine gauges
Off side Headlight
Fuel Pump
Wheels powder coating

So it's looking like with the purchase price of £5500, I'm into the car for about £15000.
Which looking at the parts installed gives me a relatively "new" P38.
Happy days !!

Runs off quickly to find the biggest piece of wood I can find !!!

31 March 2018 - 16:02

A Happy Easter to all,
Just found the site during an afternoons googling !!
And it would seem that I am also a disillusioned RR. Net member, my last post was met with, "this is mainly an american site", Hey ho !
Anyway, names Nick, had my 97 4.6 HSE for over ten years now.
Installed a top hat engine and just over two years ago a Bristol Engineering auto box. Also has a Tornado chip with ACT inlet trumpets and an EAS isolation kit .
Love the cars all around ability and the fact it tows our tin tent effortlessly.
Jobs for this year are rebuild of the ABS unit with the stainless washers, all the rear brakes, lines etc and another go at the headlining.
Oh and replace an offside stone cracked headlight.

04 January 2019 - 11:32

I decided that my bank A O2 sensor was not " flip flopping" as quick as it used too using my Nanocom.
So purchased an AMR 6244 from Island as my chassis code is WA38.
Fitted the new sensor which is physically longer than the NGK that was installed, only to find that the car didn't seem to run well.
I've now refitted the old one and she back to running smoothly.
So on looking at the "new" sensor it has a marking on it of; FAE 77350 and on Googling this it turns out it's a generic sensor for 4.6 Range Rovers built between 1994 - 2002.
The Range Rover P38 parts catalogue shows three differing sensors depending on chassis numbers, surely this means that a single generic sensor is incorrect for my vehicle.
I'd be interested in others opinions and whether only fitting Ngk Sensors is the way to go.

25 May 2018 - 12:18

Just finished a complete re-piping of the car, both rear calipers, new pressure control valve for the rear brakes, Russell's Modulator upgrade with new reservior and a new accumulator.
Bled the brakes using the RAVE procedure and all seemed well.
I had a "pressure switch fault" show yesterday on the Nanocom after dash warning lights, which I've put down to driving off the drive before the ABS system was up to pressure fully and having to brake a few times on our tight housing estate, dropping the pressure below switch limits.
I've done the pressure tests and the accumulator is filling in thirty seconds give or take a second.
With the ign on, the pressure is dropping to pump run again in between four and a half to five minutes. Not constantly the same time, once actually went over six seconds before pump run.
I'm taking it that my pressure relief switch is okay but I may have a slightly worn pump or pump non return valve.
Sods law, going away with the caravan next week but luckily I have a second hand pump and pressure switch which I'm taking with me just in case.
I'm thinking that the pump should be okay for a while, what do you guys think ?