Unfortunately for me it was only after fitting the X8R "o" rings that I saw their hit and miss successes on the web.
I've had an air leak for a while, mainly when it was cold outside.
I have isolators from the output side of the vale block for the air bags so knew it was the block, which on stripping found the diaphragm damaged.
The car now fills a lot quicker but I have found leaks on virtually all of the top solenoids with soapy water and the car drops in a few hours
I stripped some of the worse leaking solenoids to see if I had caught/twisted any on the seals but they are all fine.
I have now sent for a set from 4X4airseals who were originally Landyair, has any one had any issues with their kits ?

I've just replaced the NGK spark plugs,
I usually gap them at 0.035 thou the lower end of the setting, this time however I set them at 0.040 thou just to see if it made any difference and because I do have issues at mot time with emissions. Usually passes but has to have two goes and be hot.
We had to do a 70 mile round trip to pick up some furniture on mostly dual carriage way, reset dash before leaving, speed limit on the way there and 60-65 on the way back. The engine seemed smoother.
Lie-o-meter on the dash shows 22.7mpg !
Now I know to take that with a pinch of salt as it needs a brim to brim to be accurate but I've never seen it that high on the dash before.
So I'm just wondering what others gap theirs at and whether anyone else has seen such a difference in changing the gap size.
Nick

After some advice please.
I had a Bristol Gearbox rebuild installed 5 years and 15k miles ago.
Should I do a filter and oil service on it ?
Works as it should but I've got it into my head about the box bedding in and the filter needing changing.
Am I worrying over nothing ??
Thanks,
Nick

I decided that my bank A O2 sensor was not " flip flopping" as quick as it used too using my Nanocom.
So purchased an AMR 6244 from Island as my chassis code is WA38.
Fitted the new sensor which is physically longer than the NGK that was installed, only to find that the car didn't seem to run well.
I've now refitted the old one and she back to running smoothly.
So on looking at the "new" sensor it has a marking on it of; FAE 77350 and on Googling this it turns out it's a generic sensor for 4.6 Range Rovers built between 1994 - 2002.
The Range Rover P38 parts catalogue shows three differing sensors depending on chassis numbers, surely this means that a single generic sensor is incorrect for my vehicle.
I'd be interested in others opinions and whether only fitting Ngk Sensors is the way to go.
Nick

Just finished a complete re-piping of the car, both rear calipers, new pressure control valve for the rear brakes, Russell's Modulator upgrade with new reservior and a new accumulator.
Bled the brakes using the RAVE procedure and all seemed well.
I had a "pressure switch fault" show yesterday on the Nanocom after dash warning lights, which I've put down to driving off the drive before the ABS system was up to pressure fully and having to brake a few times on our tight housing estate, dropping the pressure below switch limits.
I've done the pressure tests and the accumulator is filling in thirty seconds give or take a second.
With the ign on, the pressure is dropping to pump run again in between four and a half to five minutes. Not constantly the same time, once actually went over six seconds before pump run.
I'm taking it that my pressure relief switch is okay but I may have a slightly worn pump or pump non return valve.
Sods law, going away with the caravan next week but luckily I have a second hand pump and pressure switch which I'm taking with me just in case.
I'm thinking that the pump should be okay for a while, what do you guys think ?

Being a little bored over the weekend I had a look at the cost of mechanically owning my P38 over the last eleven years.
So far it's up to about £9100 and in all fairness that includes,
Top hat short engine including new oil pump
Replacement Bristols Auto Gearbox and associated cooler and pipe work
Virtually a complete brake overhaul including washer upgrade to the modulator (parts ordered ready for next week lol)
ACT Carbon fibre inlet trumpets
Tornado chip ECU
Light mist respray
Both front wheel bearings
Fuse box
120 Amp Alternator
Starter motor
Mild steel exhaust
Nanocom
Engine Radiator
General Grabber AT tyres
Viscous coupling (transfer box)
1000CA Battery
Poly bushes (blue)

Then there's the smaller things like,
Water pump and viscous fan
MAF
Mud Pod and engine gauges
Off side Headlight
Fuel Pump
Wheels powder coating
Etc

So it's looking like with the purchase price of £5500, I'm into the car for about £15000.
Which looking at the parts installed gives me a relatively "new" P38.
Happy days !!

Runs off quickly to find the biggest piece of wood I can find !!!

A Happy Easter to all,
Just found the site during an afternoons googling !!
And it would seem that I am also a disillusioned RR. Net member, my last post was met with, "this is mainly an american site", Hey ho !
Anyway, names Nick, had my 97 4.6 HSE for over ten years now.
Installed a top hat engine and just over two years ago a Bristol Engineering auto box. Also has a Tornado chip with ACT inlet trumpets and an EAS isolation kit .
Love the cars all around ability and the fact it tows our tin tent effortlessly.
Jobs for this year are rebuild of the ABS unit with the stainless washers, all the rear brakes, lines etc and another go at the headlining.
Oh and replace an offside stone cracked headlight.
Nick