Car now staying up overnight after fitting the 4X4airseals (Landyair) O rings
I'll hold my hands up and admit I did find one of the rear solenoid small thin seals that I changed not seated properly. As you (Gilbertd) said I doubt I would disturb them again unless I really had to.
I did however measure the thickness of the O rings and apart from the thin internal solenoids O rings being the same size, the X8R ones were approx 1.53mm against 1.73mm for the 4X4airseals (Landyair) seals.
If I have to do this again in the future I will definitely use the slightly thicker O rings.

Thanks Gilbertd,
In hindsight I wish I'd left the solenoids alone but I thought that I was doing a good maintenance rebuild because as far as I know the seals have never been changed in the cars life. It's gone through two sets of air bags and a few compressor rebuilds in our sixteen years of ownership but no issues with the valve block.
Fingers crossed the Lanyair ones will do the job.

Unfortunately for me it was only after fitting the X8R "o" rings that I saw their hit and miss successes on the web.
I've had an air leak for a while, mainly when it was cold outside.
I have isolators from the output side of the vale block for the air bags so knew it was the block, which on stripping found the diaphragm damaged.
The car now fills a lot quicker but I have found leaks on virtually all of the top solenoids with soapy water and the car drops in a few hours
I stripped some of the worse leaking solenoids to see if I had caught/twisted any on the seals but they are all fine.
I have now sent for a set from 4X4airseals who were originally Landyair, has any one had any issues with their kits ?

Our Green Flag cover is through the Caravan club Mayday cover.
Part of the package we have covers a breakdown on the way to a caravanning holiday. They will take your caravan to site for the holiday and then home again if the car has not been repaired.
You can also add another car to the policy for just £25.

We're with Green Flag and the twice that they've been needed got a good service.
Just for info, if you have an accident they will recover you, the AA won't.
My wife (who was driving alone) was left on the side of the road after an accident, she had been with the AA for twelve years and all the lady on the phone said before putting the phone down was "we are a breakdown
service not a recovery service".

yes I've fitted BPR6ES - 7822 plugs.
My hand book states 35-40 thou plug gap for the 97 which seems quite a large variable ?

I've just replaced the NGK spark plugs,
I usually gap them at 0.035 thou the lower end of the setting, this time however I set them at 0.040 thou just to see if it made any difference and because I do have issues at mot time with emissions. Usually passes but has to have two goes and be hot.
We had to do a 70 mile round trip to pick up some furniture on mostly dual carriage way, reset dash before leaving, speed limit on the way there and 60-65 on the way back. The engine seemed smoother.
Lie-o-meter on the dash shows 22.7mpg !
Now I know to take that with a pinch of salt as it needs a brim to brim to be accurate but I've never seen it that high on the dash before.
So I'm just wondering what others gap theirs at and whether anyone else has seen such a difference in changing the gap size.
Nick

Gilbertd, many thanks for the advice, looks like I'm going to have a nice day lying under her in the near future.
At least I'll know that they've been done then for peace of mind.

We'll be towing the twin axle caravan around Scotland in August so I think as said it won't do any harm.
Hopefully over this short a period there shouldn't be any sludge build up and as I intend doing an engine service and oil's check before we go I can just add it in.
Any comments on adding "Lubeguard" to the ATF in the transfer box (111k miles) as its the only original unit on the car. Engine was replaced about 30K miles ago and running VR1 20W50 in it and both diffs have been replaced and will get a drain and refill with a decent EP90.

After some advice please.
I had a Bristol Gearbox rebuild installed 5 years and 15k miles ago.
Should I do a filter and oil service on it ?
Works as it should but I've got it into my head about the box bedding in and the filter needing changing.
Am I worrying over nothing ??
Thanks,
Nick

Thanks Gilbertd, not having owned a later P38 I thought that they all had four.
We never stop learning but I suppose that's why why are on this forum as it's a great source of knowledge with helpful people.
Many thanks Nick

Thanks guys, no I don't understand either.
Plug was the right colour and shape, only issue on first attempt to connect the plug and receiver was that the pins pushed out of the plug.
Pushing them back in with needle pliers seemed to work but it didn't bode well from the off.
Mine are now at least ten years old and have done 110K miles so I think I'm going to bite the bullet and get a pair of GKN sensors.
She is a 97 Gems so at least I've only got the two to get LOL !!

I decided that my bank A O2 sensor was not " flip flopping" as quick as it used too using my Nanocom.
So purchased an AMR 6244 from Island as my chassis code is WA38.
Fitted the new sensor which is physically longer than the NGK that was installed, only to find that the car didn't seem to run well.
I've now refitted the old one and she back to running smoothly.
So on looking at the "new" sensor it has a marking on it of; FAE 77350 and on Googling this it turns out it's a generic sensor for 4.6 Range Rovers built between 1994 - 2002.
The Range Rover P38 parts catalogue shows three differing sensors depending on chassis numbers, surely this means that a single generic sensor is incorrect for my vehicle.
I'd be interested in others opinions and whether only fitting Ngk Sensors is the way to go.
Nick

Ha ha, don't know about being under prepared, for me it's being a retired mechanic and not wanting to have to resort to being recovered or repaired by someone else.
Like Gilbertd I do tend to take parts with me when we tour the UK with the caravan but then the parts spare alternator etc are carried in the van.
I also have been known to check where the nearest L-Rover spares places near where we intend visiting are.......... bit nerdy I know LOL

The spare wheel/well has a tow rope with numerous "D" shackles, serpentine belt, high vis waistcoat's, 12v compressor and to go with my get you home EAS kit a second (just in case, spare) EAS compressor. Also a accident pack with throw away camera, tape measure, etc.
The boot holds my plastic box with a gallon of water, small screen wash, gloves, plastic sheet (old shower curtain) for lying on and a couple of ratchet straps.
My Nanocom resides in the glovebox along with some spare fuses and bulbs also my Green Flag card is in my wallet.
All just to make my journeys a more enjoyable (I WILL GET HOME !!) experience......LOL !!

After being caught out like this and having to drive on the bump stops I've now fitted a manual filling kit to my car.
It has four schrader fillers on a panel mounted on the inside of slam panel next to the air filter.
I have fitted isolator valves to the EAS outputs which then run down to "T" joints from the fillers.
If I have a problem I isolate the out put lines and fill from a 12v tyre compressor which I keep in the boot.
Before driving I unplug the compressor so that it doesn't run and then all I get is the dash alarm.
Rather that than ever having to drive on the bump stops again.

I've got an ELM327 plug in that works perfectly with a Torque Pro app on my phone with our Jaguar but when I plug it into the P38 I get a beeping dash and ABS faults.
Glad I purchased the Nanocom LOL !

Davew, my apologies if I came across as offended, nothing of the sort. We all have our own views and ideas of owning and running our cars.
I'm in total agreement about the snake oil items available to "upgrade" vehicles but while the market is there people will purchase. We have some 1.0 litre hatch backs in our town, lowered, exhausts you could drive in, KN filter stickers etc and you drive behind watching them bounce driving over a matchstick and getting deafened by the exhaust........... but it's fast ???
I think we're in agreement that a lot of the items are a placebo effect rather than actual.
I believe I'm right that Top Gear did a "modding" piece in which they changed tyres, brakes, suspension, body kits etc and they actually made the vehicle worse in both speed and comfort.
We've had our P38 for over ten years, in that time it's been nearly rebuilt. New Top Hat engine, recon gearbox, total brake and EAS overhaul, not to mention bearing, struts and other serviceable items.
We decided as we'd spent so much on it and intended doing more towing now that we've retired that the chip made sense. So barring accidents which I suspect would immediately write it off its's a keeper.
We also have an old (2007) 420 bhp supercharged Jag which was a one off retirement/ redundancy pressy, there are chips available but why you would need to is anyone's guess, especially on today's busy congested roads.

No I haven't and I must admit to not even thinking about it.
As it's not a "performance" car I doubt they'd even look but I went for the exchange ECU so if it all went pee tong it's only two connectors to remove and replace.
I do think that a lot of the people who state that the chip upgrades don't work have never actually had ones fitted but I went in with my eyes wide open. There was no way that a two ton brick was going to transform into a fast handling sports car but it has done what I wanted (and asked Mark Adams to provide) which was more torque on the hills and a smoother towing ability.
Might rethink letting the insurance know on the next change :)

I've installed a Tornado chip along with the ACT inlet trumpets on Mark Adams recommendation.
I didn't want speed but torque for towing our twin axle tin tent.
The car is more responsive and along with the fuel management changes it also now changes down earlier on hills making for a much smoother ride.
Yes it can be slightly more economical (approx 2mpg) but as has been said, you can't have both power and economy.