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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Just bought some oil for the mrs car :(

use code oil50 to reduce oil by 50% at Eurocarpart.com

I got 5 litres for £12.49 which would normally cost about €50 here in France.

I'm sure you will appreciate this especially certain people who use their mrs dishwasher for degreasing car parts.

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Amazon has these invaluable bolt grips on offer of the day so thought Id share the deal as maybe of use to some.

The base 5 piece set for £11.99 and the extension set for £ 12.99

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B0000CCXVZ/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B000QW6K8I/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

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Well, Ive come to realise despite repairing the car more than it was really driven, it is in fact that which I enjoyed.

Now I have had to give up the car, I am at a loose end and its made me think that the constant repairs was what was keeping me sane in an otherwise mundane life.

Ive also been reading up on selling a spares/repairs car in France and it wont prove easy. You are not allowed to sell a car that cant be driven, luckily mine can, albeit only a few miles before it blows out.You are not allowed to advertise the car for spares only. Its all very harsh because they dont want any cars that need repairing in circulation and therefore forcing you to get it scrapped.

I will in fact advertise it on a Polish forum where they buy spare/repair cars across Europe so fingers crossed.

If I cant sell it I will gladly offer it to anyone on here for free but obviously it will need collecting on a trailer so let me know if you would be interested.

Fortunately I have a motorbike, Goldwing thats 30 years old so I have something to tinker with in the mean time.

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I have just used a vacuum coolant filler today , the top hose and bottom hoses where the only ones to collapse under vacuum, not sure if it should be more.

The vacuum held at the recommended pressure so in theory shows there isnt an air leak.

I am still desperately clinging on to the last hope of fixing my car.

Just been reading up on Heater core problems and am wondering if this could also be a possible cause of my problem, maybe its clogged or something.

Whats the best method to bypass the heater core on a Bosch?

Finally got all my bits to start replacing the H/G.
Just swapping over the brackets from the old cylinder head to new and also the bolt from the front of the R/H ( passenger side) cylinder head that goes to a part on the aux belt.

I cant undo it as it doesnt have a fixed nut, Ive tried using grips to no avail. Does any one know a part number or name of this bolt.
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Whats your opinion on these I just received.
They are recon,Cleaned, skimmed and tested but as you can see there is damage . I was not informed of the damage but I'm guessing its location wont affect it working. There is also a scratch on the skimmed surface, again is this outside the important area?

Im feeling a bit disgruntled as they dont really meet the same standard as advertised from Emmotts on their ebay listing.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390383328132?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Is it really worth the difference in price?

I am looking at LR original stretch bolts of which a full set will cost about £65.

If my head gasket fails again I will scrap the car so the reuse issue isnt a problem for me.

The ARP's which I hadnt even heard of until mentioned on my Head Gasket thread are from what I can find about £140 with Rimmer Bros. I have seen a set on ebay for £110 but it mentions that they are RPI-Partsrange ( is this the same RPI company I was told to avoid )?
I might be tempted at about £100 as they seem easier to fit.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-V8-ARP-Mains-Stud-Kit-Engine-MG-TVR-Kitcar-MGB-Morgan-V8-Land-Rover-/152183253177?hash=item236ed428b9Ⓜ️manrA8DhRlwcuOv1iYrmdLw

As you all know Ive been keeping you all busy helping me with my overheating problem which I really appreciate but after weeks and weeks of agonising over the cause and changing costly parts I have decided to go with my gut instinct and strip down the engine as Ive probably spent €100 in coolant alone and have bled the system till I was blue in the face.

I have found what appears to be a very well put together detailed blog on how to do the head gasket should I get that deep in stripping it down called Paulsp38.com

http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/engine-refresh/

Anything you'd like to add in making it easier or recommended parts is obviously appreciated .

Thought I'd change the water pump today.

There is a narrow rubber strip between the radiator and slam panel.

I have often left tools on there before but what I didn't realise is, the rubber strip was covering a gap and placed my pulley holder on it which is heavier than the usual screw drivers and narrower than the wrenches etc.

Oooops well more like fu(k1ng hell and a few more expletifs .

It fell flat on the bottom and there are no gaps at the bottom to retrieve it out.

I then spent 30 mins trying to hook it with a coat hanger to no avail . Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

All I wanted to do was change the pump but as usual things end up taking twice as long as it should because stuff like this happens ( yeah my stupid fault I guess)

Then I remembered after a lot of swearing that as like others have mentioned I have a tool at the bottom of my kit that I forgot about.

A long bendable magnetic pick up tool.In fact I have 2, Doh.
With that and the coat hanger I got it out thankfully as I wasnt looking forward to the idea of taking the radiator off to retrieve it.

Managed to change the tensioner and idlers & drain the coolant so just hope tomorrow will go a bit smoother when changing the pump.

Still getting an overheating problem.

Just watched a video on testing the water pump and it shows that if you can wiggle the fan then the pump is faulty.

I can wiggle my fan using both hands, not a huge amount but should it be rock solid with no movement.

Im sure ive bled the system well this time and it seems to be ok round town, just on dual carriageways its overheating now.

Just did a 300 mile journey no problem but a day later after 3 miles it shot into the red.

I checked the coolant and the tank was empty.

Filled it up but it only took about 2 litres left it overnight night then topped up another 1 litre.

No leaks any where, checked the engine oil and no sign of mixing.

Drove out and again after a few miles shot into the red.

Left it a while and again coolant tank empty. Topped it up again.

Drove another mile into the red again only this time the coolant was still full then oddly the temp gauge fluctuated and dropped back down to dead centre.

I'm wondering if its an air block. I cant remember should the pipe from the radiator into the engine be hard, Its hard to start then as it cools gets softer or does it sound more like a dodgy pump.

Update. Just took the expansion tank cap off and filled up with the engine on whilst squeezing the pipe. Is it normal for it to start overflowing with the cap off.
It doesnt seem to be over heating now but I have no hot air.

Why is it the small jobs always end up being difficult.

Decided to change the seals.

All pretty straight forward but getting the brass seating ring off the piston was a nightmare. Especially when the piston is made of cheese.

Managed to gouge a few pieces out of the piston but luckily didnt effect the seating of the new Diaphram .

My brass ring also has an O ring in the middle which others dont, Although that seal was broken I managed to reuse it as I didnt have a replacement.

Overtightened the bolt holding the compressor to the EAS box and sheared it off.

Luckily its working nicely despite the problems.

Despite changing my air springs my ride still feels very bumpy in that I can feel the road grooves and holes quite a bit.

I'm assuming that maybe the shocks may need changing to.

Just been looking at the dealers and there seems to be quite a selection.

Britpart Cellular Dynamic look within a good price range at £35 a piece, I wouldnt want to spend much more but less is a bonus.

Any recommendations. I dont do offroad .

Anyone know where to get decent touch up paint.

I just bought some from ebay advertised as genuine Land Rover. I have code 602 Oxford Blue yet the paint I have received is more black and the labeling looks photocopied.

Has any one got a working gas strut on their cubby box.

I have just replaced mine as its never been working . I was expecting it to raise the cubby box lid once the release button was pressed but all it actually does is holds it up.

£12 just to hold up a lid, I need to smack the back of my head :)

Where will I find the code for my locking wheel nut key, Its cracked and wont last much longer.

I couldnt see anything on the key itself but looking at Island 4x4 they sell them with codes from A-J

Thought I'd replace the tensioner and idlers today along with a new serpentine belt.

I have a 36mm spanner placed on the fan nut and whacked it with a hammer, all it keeps doing is turning the whole lot.

How do I stop the pulley from turning as well, Is there another tool I need as most forums say a hammer should be enough to loosen the nut.

Managed to replace the serpentine belt although the old one still looked like new.

Just about to buy some ATF from Amazon , thinking I would need about 5 litres but just checked rave and it states 9.7 litres for my 99 4.0 auto.

Am I reading that right? Seems a hell of a lot.