Both Richard and Leolito know my problem - In Southern Spain with b*ed gearbox on my 1998/9 P38 4.0 L Range Rover. I know Ashcroft are recommended but returning old one and getting replacement to here seems expensive and difficult. I need to replace the link chain in Transfer box or replace whole box as well. Any one have any suggestions please ?

Thanks Blanco - i did think of checking France but Leolito has come up with the goods and been very helpful

Thanks Richard - merica is always a problem it seems - told that the best place is ebay germany but so far can't find anything - always used to try scrap yards here in Spain but also told that they are now very expensive for RR headlamps - might still give it a try though. The 5 or 6 near Malaga airport are vast and very well organised and big as football pitches but stuff goes through so quickly that older vehicles are harder to find.

Anyone know the best (cheapest) way I can get a pair of LHD Headlights for my P38 to remain in Spain ? Don't need wiper ones. Anyone got a pair kicking around that they no longer need please !

One of my P38 headlights has a little water sitting in it after rain - passenger side - haven't tried to get in it but is this a replacement job - reflector is showing signs of corrosion !

Definitely an 88mm - lethal ! No enemy seen !

I have 2 identical P38's - same colour - same week of manufacture and my first one has EAS which I have kept in good order. The second P38 (temp emergency buy) has springs and is a horrible experience. Off road on the bumpy tracks here in Spain it feels as if the whole suspension will fall apart any second. The ride and noises are terrible. On the motorway it is quiet enough but I'm no expert on the handling when taking any turning manoeuvres ! Doing the EAS is one of the few jobs I could do on the P38 and from my point of view I have no doubt which is best.

No - don't normally bother with the camera - and it wasn't very dramatic - driving about 70 -80 and sudden loss of power - sort of clicking tapping sound started - got worse within seconds and then just slowed to a stop. Engine didn't seize - just buggered the valves camshaft and pushrods - turns over on the battery - no compression on cylinders - very sad for me but the one I'm collecting tomorrow is virtually identical - same colour and was first registered only a few days later! Will have to swap LPG and air suspension though.

Some of you may remember my ongoing P38 running problems and I'm sure you were bored to death by what seemed insoluble. Well, you will be relieved to hear the problem has been solved by my blowing the engine the other morning delivering her 'who must be obeyed' at 5 in the morning on way to airport. She missed the plane and I have damaged the engine seemingly beyond economic repair by leaving waterfiller cap off (in dark) and valves and camshaft damaged and no cylinder pressure. But, I have found a virtually similar P38 to buy and am collecting it soon. I want to ask, is it straight forward to replace the road spring mod it has had with my wonderful air springs (much superior ride) and although it had been LPG converted (most removed - don't know make) can I transfer my Zavoli type system to new vehicle. They are same year and engine. Are there things to be done to ECU when LPG fitted? I would value any advice !

Fantastic - so good to see but depressing as my loved P38 has been shafted by the Spanish heat, tracks, dust and trackside bushes and is unlikely to ever reach such condition ! Any enthusiasts want a free holiday in the sun ? Bring your Nanocom !

As a follow up my first Admiral renewal has gone down in price by a few pounds in the month ( like the old days when you were good) so - pleased with them !

I'm a bit depressed - seeing the cars you guys play with as 'breakers' makes me feel mine is 'broken' .......it was great when newish but dogs and Spanish roads and heat have taken their toll. And while I'm on, tell me, I think my P38 gems had those sort of figure of eight plastic keepers to guide/separate the HT leads and perhaps I left them off when the newer fatter leads didn't fit - or was it the Classic ? Going senile here, but perhaps the leads are shorting as they are touching metal parts when hot and engine still misfiring - what do you think ? Not strictly on topic I know.

Well now we know - as usual all the correct info comes out on here. I will try and tell my friendly tyre guy what the right way is but I have a problem....my Spanish is cra....and his English never left the starting block - but we wave our arms a lot ..........

Oh thanks - getting senile and muddled with these devices - forget what they can and can't do.....have to get the old laptop out !

Went to get two new tyres today and showed the tyre man (who is actually a super guy) the problem with the nuts whereupon he brought out a box of Landrover/Rangerover nuts that he had saved from customers all damaged in the way that I have shown. He suggested that this was a Rover problem but I pointed out that using my wrench and taking care none of mine had suffered with my handling for 15 years or more. I checked his socket and it is one of those with like 12 flats inside (12 point socket) and when his son put it on to remove the nuts it was only half on - not fully home and not a good fit which is the reason they get damaged. We used my wheel wrench from then on and he gave me two spare nuts that were the correct size but without the smart thin casing on the outside. In future all wheel changes will be done with my wrench wherever I am !!

Oh yes Gilbert - I sort of remember that now. Knowing what you have said before it makes sense to reset the adaptives because after so much bad running with misfiring on the one cylinder at least the system must be pretty screwed up. You don't know how good it feels to actually be able to put your foot down and the car to accelerate and show some desire to respond after so long. I understand that if I can remember how to use my Creader thingy and reset adaptives I should then run on petrol for it to set up again before allowing it to change to LPG ?

All my covers/nuts for which I have used the supplied wrench for 15 years or more are perfect. The tyre replace/repair depots are the culprit - it is the tools they use which have caused the problem. And I'm sure they over-tighten them with those automatic socket tools.
Tomorrow I go for two new front tyres and they will use my RR wrench while I stand over them !!!

Believe it or not, the ones from the classic are identical in all respects except that the thread on the inside for the hub bolts is bigger -- so no go ! Used the two security ones that I had exchanged before.

Ah - so much to learn - I have a long way to go ....

Does disconnecting the battery lose the stored running settings in the ECU ? Should I do that ?

This is what they do to my wheel nuts - about 5 or 6 have ended up like this and I usually drive away without looking when they change a wheel ! Now I am going to speak to them first and tell the buggers they pay if damaged ! Has this happened to anyone else ? What exactly causes it ? Actually, looking at the damage it looks as if the tool they use is a sort of multi grip socket with more teeth in than usual - presumably means it fits all sizes ?? Completely buggers the nut and I cant get my normal wrench on.