Ohhhhh ! then the nibbled bit is just where the flexible one goes under the reservoir, I suppose I can just replace the flexible bit if I have to ? Is it a simple job for a guy who can wield a spanner ? I'm surprised at how many things under the bonnet I don't know anything about - and I used to rebuild the old engines that we grew up on ..........

Yes Gilbert thanks - makes sense - that was a bundle I repaired before - it has some damage again but see my pic - what is that black round dome thing with the yellow bookmark on ? It has a tough rubber hose coming out and passes under the brake master servo - the rubber/plastic pipe has had some damage from nibbles

Thanks Sloth - that seems to fit the bill - the rats had built the start of the nest using the plastic/rubber air blocks near the bonnet hinge and olive twigs. They did this in the last day or two! When I get the energy and rain stops I'm going to have a search and remove the rest of the nest. Didn't realise there was a cooler for the gearbox or sensor or where it was. Will have to track the wiring as I have no idea where it runs. Does it go into the fuse box ?

I had not considered the Battery as a problem. It does not appear to be in bad order. I would have thought that the newly arrived rats doing something to wires is most likely. Presumably there is a temp sensor in the gearbox and if so where would the wiring be ? If I find and fix the problem will I have to reset CPU to cancel the problem message ?

I like to test the skills of the experts here and am very impressed with what you know !! So, they are back. I opened the bonnet on the P38 to check water etc and found myself being stared down by two pairs of eyes. Two Rats had decided to move in because contrary to popular opinion the Rain in Spain does not stay on the plain. They had returned to their popular nesting site against the bulkhead behind the coolant reservoir and conveniently positioned to eat the wires that come past out of the bulkhead. Well I repaired these before and I have not got down to inspect the wiring yet but having jumped in the car and turned on the ignition I get a warning - Gearbox Overheat-check handbook. Obviously the engine had not been run so no overheating possible. So Gilbert and others, what do you think ? Is it just a wire eaten through ?

Bit irrelevant but here in Spain LPG fluctuates from about 68 -71 cents a litre -that is about 59 p to 61 p and is not very common in use. LPG stations are about 20 -30 miles apart in built up areas like the Costas but many hundreds of miles when far from major cities. Many taxis seem to have moved onto LPG. Not many normal cars use it but I have been surprised to see some modern ones that you would not expect on it. Camper vans and Roamer homes often stop at my local LPG garage to fill their gas bottles for cooking and heating. I'm not sure that they are supposed to do this but apparently it is much cheaper.

Ok, thanks for that - all clear now - my LPG is more or less ok but I still have strange running probs common to both and still have to change the crankshaft sensor to eliminate that as a possible problem and replace my coolant thermostat which has failed open and the engine does not get hot enough for the LPG to kick in ! Cold and muddy up there on my mountain and I'm loathe to try and get underneath !!! Leaving the car at the nearest garage while they do the work is a problem as getting home and about difficult - on my own here !

Also, I'm not good at starting messages to people and I did once mention that I made a mess of trying to sign up for the forum and could not log on so three of my membership attempts are invalid (no password or inaccessible) but listed. For neatness they could be removed - they are 231 Seeba, 232 seeba and 233 superviv. I finally succeeded with super4 !

It's all a bit beyond me - I fumble my way through the forum and hadn't realised that LPG was no more. Does this mean I can't ask questions on LPG anymore - I see it is 'forbidden' when I search !

Here here - take care of yourselves and family and pets - don't forget the four wheeled ones .............

I know I'm a bit late on this one but my story might be of interest - I think I told it before somewhere here. Was taking my 6 Border Collie puppies to Switzerland in the P38 and stopped in Madrid for petrol. Middle of August and hot. Left key in ignition - windows closed 'cos aircon had been on. As I was standing filling the tank suddenly all the locks went on as one of the puppies jumped on a door button. Thought OMG what the hell do I do now. Went to the pay desk to pay and explain I couldn't move the car and the old guy behind the desk listened to my problem, turned round and reached to a wire coat hanger on the wall behind him and handed it to me without saying anything. I realised there must be an answer here so managed to bend and wriggle the wire hanger past the edge of the door and reached down to hook up the button. To my great relief all the locks came up and I was in !!! Nowadays, if I leave ignition key in and get out I ALWAYS open window.
Maybe it was between glass and rubber - can't remember now !

I just have to dive in here - father bought a bombed house in Bickley, Kent and built our new house on the land. The garage he built was over the remains of a cellar so we had a large inspection pit covered in wood planks for free. Above was a steel beam so with a cord/rope pulley I was able to hoist my Willys jeep engine out and do any work. One such exploit I had lifted the engine and turned it sideways when the pulley slipped, dropping the engine back into the compartment, the sharp rear of the bell housing guillotined the main steel braided wiring loom leaving me with an extra repair job. If I was in the pit I had to push the car back from underneath to be able to climb out and pull it over me to work on it ! Do I qualify for the entrepreneurs club ?
Not sure what this has to do with dead engines in Cornwall but I didn't start the deviation !

Thanks all - amazing all the intricacies of what will and what won't work on these gadgets - actually, I realise now my Creader despite being a 'Pirate' in name only, works pretty well - the only problem is the operator - he isn't very good at interpreting the data - but it was a good buy at £30 and eventually it should be possible to understand it. The RSW stuff does the rest pretty well. My poor car performance is linked very closely to the outside/ambient temp here in Spain and now that it is cooler it performs much better - no where near right but noticeably better.

What do you all make or know about this enter link description here

It was sent in an email from Maltings - it looks just like my Creader with one or two changes ie - locks to first vehicle used on and then has to be re-licensed or something. It is £93 (my pirate Creader was about £30)

By the way - this is what it claims to do - I'm sure you know this !
OBDII FUNCTION

1. Read Codes
2. Erase Codes
3. I/M Readiness -- I/M Readiness indicate whether or not the various emissions-related systems on the vehicle are operating properly and are ready for Inspection and Maintenance testing.
4. Data Stream
5. Freeze Frame -- When an emission-related fault occurs, certain vehicle conditions are recorded by the on-board computer. This information is referred to as freeze frame data. Freeze Data is a snapshot of the operating conditions at the time of an emission-related fault.
6. O2 Sensor Test -- This option allows retrieval and viewing of O2 sensor test results for most recently performed tests from the vehicle's on-board computer.
7. On-Board Monitoring -- This function can be utilized to read the results of on-board diagnostic monitoring tests for specific components/systems.
8. Evap System Test -- The EVAP test function lets you initiate a leak test for the vehicle's EVAP system. Before using the system test function, refer to the vehicle's service repair manual to determine the procedures necessary to stop the test.
9. Vehicle Information -- The option displays the vehicle identification number (VIN), the calibration verification number (CVN), and other information of the test vehicle.
10. Retrieve generic (P0, P2, P3, and U0), manufacturer specific (P1, P3, and U1) codes and pending codes
    11.Turn off Check Engine Light (MIL), clear codes and reset monitors
11. Read live PCM datastream
12. Support CAN (Controller Area Network) and all other
    14.Multilingual menu and DTC definitions- English, Spanish, and German, etc
    15.Read pending DTCs
    16.Read permanent DTCs
13. DTCs search
14. Supports most of the OBDII/EOBD test modes include: CAN, ISO9141, KWP2000, J1850 VPW and J1850 PWM.
15. Works on most of 2001 and later OBDII compliant PETROL European vehicles
16. Works on most of 2004 and later OBDII compliant DIESEL European vehicles
17. Works on most of 1996 and later OBDII compliant US and Asian vehicles
18. View & Graph Live Data in Color Graphing and blazing fast refresh rate for better graphing and live data readings.
19. Comprehensive Help, Including OBD Parameter, Mode Explanations & More

VEHICLE COVERAGE:

• Freelander
• Freelander 2
• Defender
• Discovery II
• Discovery III
• Discovery 4
• Range Rover Sport
• Range Rover
• Range Rover Evoque

Jaguars
XJ TYPE
XF TYPE
XK TYPE
F TYPE
S TYPE
X TYPE

SYSTEM COVERAGE:
• Engine
• PCM
• TCM/Gear box
• ABS
• RCM/ SRS/ Airbag
• ICCM/IP
• RLCM /Air Suspension
• BCM/BODY
• HVAC/Air Conditioning
• VDCM
• SASM/Steering
• TPM
• PBM
• Parking assist
• Parking Aid
• AHCM

• VICM/Security/Immo
• DDM
• DSM
• PDM
• PSM
• ATCM
• TCCM/Transfer Box
• ADCM
• SCM
• DRM
• Rain Sensor
• GSM
• Light check/Lighting
• OCS
• HCM
• ICM
• KVM
• Television

In my money saving mode I bought s/h from Emmotts of Colne for a reasonable £35 each or so and the Chris up there assured me they looked ok - I fitted them 2 or 3 years ago and they are fine. I stretched them out before fitting and the rubber looked as good as you would expect so took the chance. Just remember to put your ear plugs in next time Chris ............

I think its possible they can corrode badly from the inside when bad fluid etc gets around inside the system - and one can't see that.

Seems like I'm in good company after all - still think the P38 is the last real Range Rover - just wish I could sort out my running problems..........

NOT the car if you prefer not to be noticed ! I'm no criminal but here in Spain it is safer to be 'incognito'. Some of The Guadia Civil and Policia Local have still got Franco DNA - they treat anyone they stop as if they are criminals - rude - no 'sympatico'. They set up frequent road blocks and stop anyone who takes their fancy. This is the last car one needs if you wish to avoid their attention.......unsecured dog in back is a 600 euro fine and shopping bags on seat can also be fined ! (I know this can be a hazard - but ..... ) This is all abitrary and seems to depend on whether they are short of money that week.

Will the creader do srs stored fault?

Sorry - I don't know (haven't got that far with mine but I don't think so) - I think Gilbert or Brian will know !

Thanks Gilbert - fills in my knowledge and makes sense now I think about it. The original coil pack failed soon after I bought the car (about 60k) and was replaced by RR dealer £ 400 or so ! I did a swap with another old one a year ago but it made no difference to this problem then. Do you think that with the live readings I'm getting from the Creader any probs with the CPS would show ? The MAFseems to show airflow, Inlet Temp seems OK - TPS shows logical increase as one opens throttle -(apart from difference in ECU 1 to ECU 2 - (0 percent idle and 10 percent idle) so can I assume these are all ok ?

I have always had a problem spotting misfires on V8 ' s. Easily fooled after 4 cylinders ! It sounds smooth enough gradually increasing rpm when stationery. Yesterday there were moments when it sounded 'wuffly' - I get different sounds from the exhausts - oldish - may have a leak - But where do I see potential misfires on Creader - can it see them ? There are no fault codes that have come up on my EAS or Creader.