Thanks both - much appreciated ! Just for interest my old Willys jeep (£85) when I was 17 started to cut out at traffic lights and after loads of searching and taking apart I found the cylinder head had a small crack in it which opened when hot - of course the good old side valve engine cylinder head was pretty easy to get off but it was pure chance I found the crack -hardly visible and not very obvious for a new boy !

I only mention this in case it helps when you are having problems with your Willys jeeps !!!!!!

yes - I read something about that on the forum - sounds very possible - but quite hard to get at isn't it - in my old age I'm developing a horror of anything that means getting down or underneath - back still twinging after kicking the front wheels off from underneath - but I think it is a good idea and will try - bear in mind that everything is 38 degrees so water won't be that cold !!

Saw something about damaged teeth position on crankshaft but if it is the sensor is it just a simple matter of bolting in a new one ?

Well yes and no - I didn't want to trouble anyone until I had done my homework properly but I could do with some clever thinking. I knew I had to run on petrol for a good 'tuning' before playing with the LPG. But, it got to the point that the engine stalled under slow running and load up hill - hot outside here (38 degrees typically) so with nothing to lose I stopped under a bridge and bravely carried out a recal (had the laptop in the car) Lo and behold - obeying the on screen instruction about RPM - not moving foot on accelerator - it had finished in a minute or so and said complete. Immediately, the engine behaved itself and ran reasonably on Lpg to get me home up the hill. Also, ran ok on petrol. Is it possible that it was so far out of tune on the petrol side that it just wasn't able to readjust ? So it now runs on LPG and petrol more or less ok but I still have the original problem which caused me to start messing with it. This is - starts ok when cold on petrol - changes to LPG as specified in my set up - but soon sounds as if not quite right in the smooth running department. This seems related to temperature because after some hour or so driving there are moments where under load and slow travel (10 mph) up hill it just does not produce any power and despite jumping on the accelerator, to gun it to change down, it just gives up. At higher revs on motorway not such a problem but lack of power on hills. I'm still waiting for the set of new ignition leads so can't be sure that they are not the problem. But I also wonder about other bits - what effect would a faulty accelerator potentiometer have for example. I mean they wear out on your old radios and amplifiers so ten years in a roasting engine can't be good. So to simplify - seems ok when cold but as engine heats up problems begin but come and go so its not like a major failure - any suggestions ?

Thanks Ob - complicated but easy when you know how !

Hi folks - LPGc in particular ! have taken good note of all advice but when it comes to Autocal - starting on petrol - I see it is necessary to run at a particular RPM and not make any change on the accelerator as the ECU carries out its calibration - the question is - what starting RPM should one begin with ?

That is a reassuring bit of info GeorgeB. I have paid special attention to all advice and printed much of it out. Especially noted LPGc's early piece about Autocal but could do with a simple idiots guide when it comes to that. I have studied the Zavoli Tech Manual page 32 Autocalibration but will want some advice about 'loose' ends. For example, when autocalibration is finished are the settings automatically saved in the ECU ? Since asking this, friend in UK explained that Calibration is stored in ECU - as far as the set up technology is concerned I assume one has to put in various 'knowns' before pressing the Autocal or is the system clever enough to read the type of injectors, reducer etc ? It also says carburation may need changing after Autocal as well, another hurdle I know the configuration can be saved for future use. Will be a relief if i ever get it running as it has done for ten years without a problem !

Right BlueP - No excuse now - I should be able to report back when it is perfect !

Thanks Gilbert - The Leads and driver for the Zavoli Diagnostics were sent by Tinley Tech on the 16 Jun. After three weeks with nothing in sight I asked Tinley to send some more which took about a week. The originals arrived yesterday - six weeks in post - now I have to post them back - the glories of the EU...... I only wanted to live near Salcombe and poddle about in my dinghy. The bureaucracy here makes it almost impossible to put a little boat in the water - especially if the outboard is more than about 9 horse - original registered paperwork required from manufacturer, insurance etc etc ....and you can't register/import a UK car with LPG ..............

Thanks - will do - how long does it take for petrol to get back in order ? and how do you tell when it is right ?

I must seem as if I'm not paying attention but my excuse is that I thought the petrol side was more or less ok and it could carry a bad ignition lead until new ones come. Just had a message from Tony to say he has broken down in Madrid on way from UK so the new solenoid won't be here today after all. Think I will pop the diagnostics on again and take out the plunger in the solenoid and leave it out in the heat - that will at least show if the solenoid is causing the problem. I don't think I was able to save the original config may have done but wasn't sure how - I notice the saved config only shows in the file list if you select the correct cylinder numbers instead of displaying all configs regardless !

But that Reset ECU button in the screen - what does it reset things to ?

Also, despite having got the LPG to work again (the loose pressure pipe) and thought all my troubles were over the original problem of poor running has got even worse yesterday - What happens is - start on petrol as usual but, as mentioned, now won't idle till engine speeded up for a few minutes - then set off - changes to gas and running pretty well. After a few hours stopping and starting for shopping and engine bay really hot in Spain sun start my journey up the long steep hills home and it looses power and only just keeps going on low rpm. Yesterday, it stalled and took a while to start again for the last few hundred yards. Didn't have the diagnostics on but you may remember the inlet solenoid had cracked and although I have a new one arriving today had to put it back for the moment ! Is it possible that this is faulty under the high temperatures and causing the lack of power and rough running ? Only happens after engine bay really hot (normal on gauge) and under load to get up hills. Next morning when cold no problem (apart from sluggish start on petrol perhaps due to ECU having set itself to cope ?) .

I know its a bit tedious for you helpers but tell me, this screen shot is off my spare computer which I experiment on and the Zavoli software is not and never has been connected to the car. But what if when I had first connected with the laptop I had pressed the 'Reset ECU button' ? Does this change the settings to what happens to be on screen readings at the time or set it back to a sort of delivery state. I may have pressed that in the confusion at the beginning and that would be when the 1.1 pressure setting and one lambda was showing. (which presumably was a first reading )

Oh and nothing to do with Range Rovers but it will show you the sort problems I am up against here ! Life can be very difficult ! https://youtu.be/ADj0zz6ScNg

Yes I understand - wonderful advice from people who really know but I have been a bit lazy and having got it running on LPG again I was frightened to touch it. It is still set on the 1.5 press and two lambdas - the only change I made and I have not recalled or remapped anything. Only additional change is the 4 pre-used ignition leads as a test that made a significant difference to the sort of misfiring rough running - just plucking up the energy to change the other four pending ordering a new set from UK. And I took pity on the renting French holiday makers in my neighbours house and spent a hot day rigging my WiFi so they could be on-line - the young people seemed close to death without it !!!

But I have noted carefully all you have said and will refer to it book in hand as I carry on with the set ups. Remember- the Spanish have a word for this - ' Manana ' and having lived here i know why.......

For the moment is it too late to change back to the 1.1 pressure setting and one lambda ? Would it remember and forgive me or have I gone down the slippery slope with no return ?

Actually - I still have to change the drivers side ignition leads - simply changing the first side has made an improvement - remember - very slow life here in Spain..........

"Oh what a tangled web we weave when first we practise to deceive ( fiddle with LPG) "

Thanks for suggestions on leads - I will order the one's from Island 4x4 - only about £15 and I have a friend with a monthly delivery run to here who can bring them out. Only snag is that he has just arrived for the July run with my lpg filter and won't be back here till end of August but I think I can wait.
LPG and set ups. I think I understand (from the very detailed advice) that before one adjusts or changes any settings on LPG the petrol system must be 100%. Since I have got the LPG working again and made some small LPG pressure changes it takes a moment or two to start (on petrol) and will not idle for a minute or so. Before, it always started instantly and idled perfectly when cold. I noted that one should run it on petrol for a good period so that the Car ECU could read/adjust the settings (in ECU ?) for the changed situation and would provide the correct running setup. I did a little bit of petrol running which seems to have helped when car still warm but not sure if this has helped cold starting/idling. What should I expect ? I accept that I should probably do a recalibration but hoping to put that off for the moment.

Ob - I think I have the rave thing on the computer - have used it - but have been given the Workshop manual by a friend who was selling their P38 and it is very handy to just pick up - no index as such so sometimes hard to find which category the part is in !

Hi Gilbert, sods law said that my particular year of both P38 (1998) and Classic (1990) did not have the hole - missed out by a year - must have been on a tea break - would you believe it ? yes I have heard pipes and fittings are a job to free but having put my back out kicking the front wheels off the P38 - (had not heard the good advice about loosening and turning steering wheel) I am avoiding crawling under that car. The dust and dirt falls in your eyes and the remains of the rats nests shower down too !!! Only going to attempt it if absolutely desperate - as you can guess can't drive or move the car till pump is fixed.
Just found that it costs more to deliver Ignition leads to Spain than they cost - anyone coming out ?

Looks like I've opened up a whole new can of worms ! My vacuum pipe from the switch on the accelerator pedal (which has a broken clip - hell of a job to put back - no proper space for it) arrives at a sort of actuator that links to the throttle on the inlet manifold. I have the workshop manual for the 1995/2001 V8 Petrol and mine is up to 99MY Gems. Its hard from the manual to find and name some of the parts and there are endless sensors which must be a potential nightmare. One job I have been putting off is to cut a hole in the floor of the Classic to replace the petrol pump - have no pit here on the track and don't see any easy way of dropping the tank out. Have already done this with the P38 when the connector came loose having had a new pump put in by a garage here !!! Bit like surgery - have to get your cuts in the right place ! Thanks for the advice about the ignition leads to get.

Thanks - Ob - reassuring to know .