But there's only 2 wires, one from the battery and one to the points? How can you cock that up when there's only two terminals on the coil?
It's beyond comprehension. We even ran a wire direct from the battery to the coil negative (it's a positive earth) but still no spark.
I tried suggesting running another one back to the positive incase the earth was bad but I was over ruled. It was too hot to argue.
Just for fun, the car has been rewired maybe 2.5 times and every cable is now red.
Well that's easy- connect the red wire to the +ve terminal, and the red wire to the -ve terminal
Job done :)
Hah :)
luckily the whole thing fits in the back of a decent sized van, so it might be coming back to England for a final rewire. Honestly, there can only be about 70 cables in the whole thing - they didn't even have a loom from new because the wires were run in individually.
The other problem is the guy who "looks after it" for my old man last worked for the Dutch Airforce on F16 airframes. I can't think of any mechanical experience less relevant to an Austin 7.
Except, of course, aviation electics all have single coloured wires- usually beige :)
If you get stuck, give me a shout. Doing old cars like that is my "day job". No Nano required...
Took my friend Gary down to the coast (5 miles) to a Spanish garage to collect his car and found surprise surprise that they reckon they can read and reset the P38. This is a bit lucky because all the other garages here I have asked over the years even if they can read codes have never been able to reset things and the nearest official RR garage that can is in Malaga 35 miles away. I don't think this local garage will be very expensive ! Anyway, going down on Wednesday to see if they can make sense of the high idle speed. Not sure if I should put on the new TPS which threw up the high idle in the first place or just let them reset the old one which at least idled ok. But after cleaning the idle valve and repairing the breather with the old hosepipe I notice that the faulty running under heat and low rpm /road speed up hill is much better - nearly normal ! But maybe there is a fault with the TPS at those higher driving rpm speeds ?
Also- looked at the replacement breather hose on website suggested by one of you (dare not check back - wipes my message) and the pic looks a bit longer than my old one which is L shape and only about 8 ins long. Also, I can only see one of these breathers not two from crankcase to the intake next to the TPS. Mine is a GEMS so perhaps there is only one.
Seems daft to have to spend so much of your time and effort to sort out what should be a simple problem. Bring back the old suck-squeeze -bang -blow and hammer and spanner of my old cars .....
It was Orange about the breather hose ...............
You can, part numbers as in these examples:
https://www.lrdirect.com/LLH500090-Hose-Oil/?
https://www.lrdirect.com/LLH500100-Hose-Breather-P38-Plenum/?
Or you can just find some plastic based hose and fit it with hose clips as long as it doesn't kink. Rubber water hose goes manky very quickly in oil.
EDIT didn't see your last where you used hose pipe :)
Theres a breather hose on the other side too...
super4 wrote:
Seems daft to have to spend so much of your time and effort to sort out what should be a simple problem. Bring back the old suck-squeeze -bang -blow and hammer and spanner of my old cars .....
Even an old banger would run like crap with the equivalent of a hole in the inlet manifold :)
Think if there was it must have been tiny until I pulled the hose about and it just fell apart. But it certainly pulled and ran better coming up the hill tonight. The TPS I ordered and tried out was here - do you think this would be a genuine reliable part even though the keyway is a different design where it engages ?
Actually, I'm beginning to think it might be wrong for the P38 - don't know how to tell !!
UK order From MG-Rover-COM new £23.99
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/NEW-LAND-ROVER-TPS-THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-FREELANDER-V6-02-05-SLD100080-/311478731971?hash=item48859444c3:g:C2gAAOSwPcVVybV0
I've not seen any tps like that , if it work then ok,, but I wouldn't hold my breathe on it !
The clue is in the description,,
Well it is identical to the one already on the P38 ? apart from keyway on otherside ! Where does one find correct part nos for these things ?
Do you have a multimeter? If so you can compare the two.
They're just a potentiometer.
Pins 1 to 3 are the fixed resistance, pin 2 the wiper.
Check that fixed resistance is the same on both
Check that the resistance varies between 1 and 2 and that resistance is similar when throttle is in the same place.
All above done with TPS unplugged.
You can do the same measurung volts when plugged in and switched on, but more potential to fritz something if you short the wrong pins or something!
If resistance maps out and new TPS physically fits, then it'll do the job even though it's a Freelander part...
If the keyway on the one you ordered looks like this
it's the wrong one. The top of it looks correct but the part number your need is ERR4278 which has a sort of butterfly shaped keyway. Not cheap though.
You should have a breather on both rocker covers. The shorter L shaped one goes from the LH (as looking at it sitting in the car) goes up to the throttle body. The other one is longer and goes from the RH rocker cover to a stub on the side of the plenum chamber.
super4 wrote:
Well it is identical to the one already on the P38 ? apart from keyway on otherside ! Where does one find correct part nos for these things ?
If in doubt, ask on here.
Rimmer's website is pretty good:
https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/SubCategory--Range-Rover-P38--m-77
or you can wade into one of the online parts manuals and improve your Russian at the same time:
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234
Gilbert you are on the ball ! Yes my ordered TPS has that keyway and the original has the butterfly shape. Do you think I've cocked up the system completely by putting the wrong one to try ?
Orange - yes I have a multimeter but after what Gilbert says perhaps I should not bother !
super4 wrote:
Do you think I've cocked up the system completely by putting the wrong one to try ?
Even if you've put the wrong one in, the adaptives devil will eventually get most of the way towards sorting it once you fit the right one.
You've got a multimeter- test the old one as I suggested above. You're looking for a smooth change in resistance as you move the spindle, with no drop outs. Easy to spot with an analogue meter, less so with a digital.
If old one passes the meter test, put it back on :)
Yes have analogue and digital meter - did actually try when I first took it off and as far as I could tell it seemed pretty smooth but I thought my test was not very good so ordered the wrong one for £21. Now as Gilbert points out the correct one is in the region of a hundred !! What for - just a bit of plastic with a pot in it !
You'll be hard pushed to buy a new ERR4268 anyway. My usual suppliers are all showing obsolete/ out of stock. I think test the old one again slowly and carefully and cross your fingers that it passes, then put it back on.
No idea why they used a different keyway but the one you have is for a Freelander. Same part number for both the 1.8 4 pot K series and the KV6 but different to the P38 with a completely different engine. They both do the same job but I can't see the one you have giving a consistent reading. As long as the old one tests OK, put it back on.
super4 wrote:
Took my friend Gary down to the coast (5 miles) to a Spanish garage to collect his car and found surprise surprise that they reckon they can read and reset the P38.
Now there is a typically Mediterranean attitude. If they reckon they can do it, why didn't they spend 5 minutes proving it rather than booking you in for Wednesday? I would think they can read and reset any fault codes but so can a £30 generic code reader, unless they have something specialised they won't be able to reset the adaptive values. It'll be down to what you asked them, can they reset faults or can they reset adaptive values, the two things are very different.
Thanks Gilbert. Will do some testing. To be fair to Spain Garage I was parked 70 m away and they were full inside with cars and very busy dealing with customers including Gary counting out his 700 euros in notes ! The garage guy came out to listen and look at the engine and still seemed confident that they could do it. I tried all my spanglish to make sure he understood but 'adaptive values' are beyond me so just have to cross fingers.