Oh dear - thought he might be wrong ! So did the EAS guy in USA (Storey ?) get into the system and write the programme to do all that stuff ? And it does adaptive resets ? That means I could reset idle ? Will it work on my old laptop which runs the early EAS and would i need a new lead to OBD as presumably the existing lead is just for the simple existing EAS
And - where do I get it all and what cost ?
Direct from Storey http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a/range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock-v3
Comes with the required cable but that will be sent by post so might arrive before Christmas.....
Ummmm
I linked to it earlier in the post.
Yes he wrote it
Yes it does adaptive resets
You'll need to check with Storey Wilson whether you need a new cable and what OS it needs to run on. If you don't need a new cable you can probably negotiate a cheaper price. as all you'll need to do is download and install the software
The cable shown on his website does appear to be a USB to OBD cable with the built in interface and it does say that it is a specifically designed hardware and software product so I suspect it won't work without the cable.
Gilbertd wrote:
The cable shown on his website does appear to be a USB to OBD cable with the built in interface and it does say that it is a specifically designed hardware and software product so I suspect it won't work without the cable.
I was thinking it might work with the free Easunlock cable
I doubt it as that is just an RS232 to OBD cable with no active components at all. I suppose it's always possible that the interface in the cable is just a USB to serial adapter built in but I doubt it or you could use a straight cable and separate adapter. It's probably very similar to the Chinese copy Opcom unit I've got to talk to Vauxhall/Opel cars and the similar one I've got for Vagcom (VW/Audi) and they aren't interchangeable.
Curious then, does disconnecting the battery on Gems reset some adaptive values?
IAV adaptives are reset when the battery is disconnected from a Jeep (yes I know not a P38)... After having the battery disconnected they will immediately stall when restarted unless the throttle is held open a bit, easy to learn the knack of preventing a stall by feathering the throttle until adaptive is relearned though. Trick is to keep the engine running at just under normal idle speed using the throttle and back off on the throttle very slightly every time idle speed climbs a bit until eventually it idles at normal speed without having to touch the throttle.
Seems to be having a lot of problems finding someone who can reset adaptives but does he really need to do that? Well before going to the lengths Super4 has been through trying to find someone to reset adaptives I'd have tried the feathering the throttle method from a cold engine start, which is when the ECU holds rpm at higher than usual rpm before settling down to normal rpm and therefore when we might expect most of the learning to take place.
Hot weather out there so engine won't see 'cold cold', will only see 'warm cold', if no luck during the day I'd try again at night or early morning when the engine is cooler or fool the engine temp sensor into thinking it's cooler.
Never had to hard reset engine adaptive values on any vehicle using specialist equipment, fixed hundreds of P38 engine management issues of all types but never touched a Nanocom, sceptical about it being necessary in this case. Aren't gearbox shift issues associated with duff TPS readings at least on one of Bosch or Gems?
Lpgc wrote:
Curious then, does disconnecting the battery on Gems reset some adaptive values?
No, as said, all it resets is the windows, sunroof and radio, adaptive values stored in the GEMS unit are stored end of. Holding the throttle open won't do anything either as the problem is a high idle not low. The TPS value stored for closed throttle has remained but by mucking around with an incompatible TPS he's caused the value at closed throttle to be set lower than the TPS is capable of supplying. So GEMS thinks the throttle is partially open all the time and is opening the IAV to act as a progression jet. I caused the same problem by starting the car with the TPS disconnected so it saved the low value (i.e. zero) as closed throttle so as soon as I plugged it back in the 0.7V was seen as throttle open. Seems it will self adapt downwards but not upwards.
He's not got duff readings so gearshift won't be affected. His readings are correct other than the minimum value expected can't be achieved by the TPS so while the ECU is expecting to see something in the region of 0.4 - 5.0V it can only output 0.7 - 5.0V so at idle it's wrong but correct everywhere else. What he will find is that with a high idle, downshifts will be clunky.
Will take your word on that mate, if I'd read the same posted on some other forum by someone else I might have queried whether the IAV was used as a progression jet.
Still, if the throttle does completely close maybe a cold start could prompt re-learning? Curious about what you said regards the learning only (or much more quickly) applying both ways at the closed position, not both ways for open positions. I've seen them with long standing unrelated issues that have seemed to have caused the IAV to learn to be more open (to achieve high enough rpm in the light of other problems) which have then caused higher than normal idle when the underlying problem was sorted, but I've never had a problem with them re-adapting to bring rpm back to normal idle speed.
Studying all the comments I sense that Gilbert is ticking all the right boxes. It is strange but you will know the reason, when I start the engine it goes to a normal idle speed as soon as starting - holds for 5 secs or so then slowly climbs up to abt 1600 and holds there. It does not seem to be idling quite as fast as when I first put the old TPS in - perhaps there is a bit of adaptive stuff working. Engaging gear it falls to normal but that is because of the load applied.
Hey I like the idea of the latest EAS gear - did not realise it was available and it is more or less affordable if the dogs go short on food ! Expect it will need the USB to OBD lead as the existing one as you say is RS 232 and I made it up myself from instructions.
There is still the underlying fault which started me on the wild goose chase and caused me to play around with things like TPS which was idling perfectly - and that is that at various road speeds but around 2500 rpm ish or lower it suddenly looses power when throttle applied for increase in gradient- sounds as if missing - makes a sort of hollow wof wof noise but recovers at changes of speed and gear. At 70 - 80 mph there is no noticeable problem - smooth and with power. I have yet to change the CPS which is LR original and the right one !! It seems that the ECU is getting duff info from a sensor - either through failure, heat or bad connections.
Should just say that the Gods in the Big Range Rover Garage in the sky were pretty sniffy when they saw my impromptu temp hosepipe repair job and looked distinctly uncomfortable when they saw the LPG stuff all over the engine..........I could sense they were ready to blame everything on that foreign intrusion.........
If you get the up to date diagnostics you'll be able to do some more in-depth fault finding and real-time data analysis.
Actually, looking at the site it doesn't appear to do real-time data from the GEMS. Just read fault codes, clear them and do sync stuff
Might be worth checking...
Oh - for the novice here does that mean it won't do the sort of reset thing - someone earlier mentioned it as if they had one ! Does anyone have the EAS vers. 4 stuff who can say what it does for certain ? have read the list but not clear what it can do !
It clearly says that it will do the adaptive reset but what it doesn't say it will do is show live data so you can't see the lambda sensors flip flopping as they should, you can't have a readout of revs against air flow, etc, all useful things to have when trying to do diagnostics on a modern fuel injected car. I've owned my P38 for 7 years now and for the first 5 I used the free EASUnlock software and a generic code reader, which would do live data, before buying the Nanocom. I bought it solely because it could reset the adaptive values (so I could set my TPS back where it should be and not twisted round on elongated mounting holes to get round the very same problem you currently have) and also read faults on the HEVAC, ABS, SRS and BeCM.
The problem you have currently is that when you first start it the idle air valve is at the default position for idle, then it reads from the TPS, sees a higher voltage, assumes you have given it a bit of throttle and opens it up to give you the high idle. Stop procrastinating and take a drill to the mounting holes. You can always reset it back to where it should be once you have the ability to reset the values.
Yessir ! I will now - just like to have clever toys to play with - just hope the movement allowed by the holes is within range and position !
If it isn't, elongate them further. It needs to move clockwise as you look at it from the front.
Thanks gilbert - in the middle of job - thought I had made the hole long enough but still a fraction to go - the slightest start on the pot track triggers the faster idle - took it off but plug still on and engine idles perfectly. Being a fussy guy I am trying to do prof job with minimum plastic removal that does not spoil the integrity of the TPS and its fixing. You'll think me a fussy bugger ! By the way, would you expect to see a gasket on the TPS - mine has none but was very secure as from the factory with blue gluey stuff in threads - but someone may have changed it before !