If they could be separated, maybe thread them so can be screwed together, but that’s some thing to look at in the future
Three pieces looks to be the way its done. Point, wire and rectangular end piece.
$64,000 question is does a mullered point mean a mullered seat underneath which also needs re-working. If so we need some way to re-finish the seat. May not be possible if the design relies on the anodising to provide a sufficiently hard face.
Looking at Morats self dis-assembled version I suspect the pointy bit is simply held on to the keep-it-together wire with loctite or similar engineering adhesive. If it is loctite then a bit of heat will shift it just fine. Looks as if the top end of the wire just goes through the hole in the flat part and is bonked flattish to stop it coming back out.
Brass should do for the pointy end. Only potentially tricky bit is if there is a recessed seat for the spring on the backside of the point. Hopefully not as those little back facer type tools are a tricky grind and easy to break.
Realistically might as well make 50 as make one or two. Time to see if that capstan attachment in the too good to bin cupboard actually fits my Smart & Brown 1024 VSL. Maybe I should have grabbed that Britan! (http://www.lathes.co.uk if you want to know what the old fool is blathering on about!).
Clive
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Looks like Morat can use one of his own products...
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I’m thinking that the shape is more a guide to keep the O-ring sitting nicely
What I thought about was getting a set of small inline NRVs and turning them down on a lathe to fit inside the valve block where the "normal" NRVs go, with a groove to hold an O-ring at each end to seal the gap and hold it in place.
gordonjcp wrote:
What I thought about was getting a set of small inline NRVs and turning them down on a lathe to fit inside the valve block where the "normal" NRVs go, with a groove to hold an O-ring at each end to seal the gap and hold it in place.
Something like these babies perhaps :- https://www.cambridgereactordesign.com/miniaturecheckvalves/#close . No great issue to make a carrier the right size for one of the small tubular ones. As they are complete units we don't have to worry about seat condition. May be a bit spendy.
The common, economically priced, off the shelf check valves for pneumatics and fluidics control applications are made to take push in nylon tube like our air suspension so tend to be too big. Smallest ones are for 4 mm tube and, typically, are 9 or 10 mm Ø overall. Too much to turn down methinks. Ordinary miniature ones start at 1/8 BSP thread so way too big.
Need to watch the crack pressure. Many of the process control variety have very high, 'hundreds of PSI, crack pressure which really won't do. I think around 7 or 8 psi is normal for pneumatic / fluidics control type valves which should be OK.
Need to verify flow rates too. Should have looked more closely at the valve block when I had mine apart but I presume standard is a simple O ring on a flat seat style lifting into a sufficiently big pipe so as not seriously restrict airflow.
Clive
My guess (without pulling them apart) is that the NRV's are only 2 parts (3 if you count the spring).
The first part being the central shaft and the tip with the groove for the O-ring which form the valve itself, and the second being the square brass back piece.
If you could make replacements for the valve assemble then in theory the rest of it should be re-usable. If looks to me on the originals that all it is is the spring and back piece are slid onto the shaft and then this is crimped flat at the end to stop the bits from flying off.
In theory you could just cut the end off to get the brass piece and the spring off, and then just slide them onto a new valve assembly, crimp the end in a vice (for example) and done.
The hardest/precision bit would be turning the valve assembly in a lathe as it's so small! I don't think there is a groove or anything on the back of the valve head for the spring to sit in - I think it just presses against the flat surface.
no10chris wrote:
The previous owner was special ! I’d call them something else, but special doesn’t come into it, they were obviously one of those, looked after by an enthusiast people, who shouldn’t be anywhere near a p38. They must be related to the guy who sold mine, lol.
There's a guy here who owns a garage down near Alabang, that specialises in European cars. He also runs a P38 and does a fine line in San Miguel flavoured hospitality.
He turned to me one day, as we were looking at a real sorry case and said, "There are two types of people. Those who should own a P38 and those who shouldn't." How true.
A friend of a friend is very interested in the Ascot but I wouldn't sell it to him for any price, he definitely falls into the latter category. Runs a 3 series BMW but has so far spent £2.5k with various mechanics to fix an oil leak but it still leaves a black puddle wherever he parks it. Got a flat tyre and had to get someone out from a garage to change the wheel. Definitely not a potential P38 owner.
This is exactly the reason I was so careful where the Beast went!! I knew you wouldn't let just anyone have it, Gilbert.
And my block is back in :)
Thank you Mr OrangeBean - yours will be coming back to you in the next few days and it is in excellent condition. However, I did manage to pop out one of my collets when refitting the block and it rolled out through the annoying funnel at the bottom of the plastic box. I robbed one of yours but I'll replace it with one from the block I bought to get the NRVs - just in case you're wondering at the lack of smart water on that particular component :)
Also, I noticed when stripping mine down that you can adjust the angle of the threaded rod that the rubber washers/nuts attach to for the compressor. I left that adjustment a bit slack and the compressor sat on it much better when it went back on. The reduced side loading in the rubber bushes has brought compressor noise back to "is it running?" so that's a result too.
The Duchess is currently sitting on the most level ground I can find within parking distance and I'll see how much she drops in the next few hours. With a bit of luck, that'll be the end of it.
In other news, I replaced the boot hatch gas struts. Now the boot stays up, but also closes without needing to be slammed. Who'd a thought it, eh?
My next task is to summon up the courage to move the intake manifold and finally fit the silicon coolant hose from the block to the expansion tank (totally bypassing the throttle heater plate).
Thanks again the Marty for service above and beyond, and Orangebean and BPSM for sending/lending me parts!
Pleased you're sorted Morat. Don't courier the old one back until after Jan 1st, as I'd hate it to be lost in the pile of Christmas related parcel traffic that gets logjammed in the system this time of year!
No need to take inlet manifold off to do that hose, by the way. Just pop the Air Compressor off. Don't forget to take tension off belt first though :)