You might have plenty of time to work on it before long the way things are going...
I have in my stable both auto and manual vehicles ... to each its own. In the sense that some cars are just 'right' with a manual, some with an auto.
For a large 4WD like the P38 I would stick to an automatic, it like it was born to have it ....
Agreed. I loved my manual E30, E39, E46 but the Jeep XJ and the Range Rover P38 are definitely Autos.
All M62s have junk timing gear. The non-TU can run with a 5HP30 but so can the M60 which is actually a good engine.
side note: throw some k-seal and your cracked wall will probably be fixed for a long time.
I water glassed the block over a year ago now and that has, for now, sealed it up. The engine is getting tired however, and something is beginning to blow externally by the sounds of it, or possibly into the valley. Haven't had time to investigate - it continues to soldier on for now when needed.
Joining the queue with other observers, though bit late.Because I too drive a diesel P38 fitted with 4HP24 box.
Keep rovering................
Sloth
Have you seen this blog reference to gearbox control with an M57 which just popped up on the facebook side
Clearly the author never really resolved the problem but looks like there is a fair bit of data there which should help in getting something that works, albeit imperfectly.
Also a little bit on getting the HEVAC going too, click a link on the right hand side.
Clive
I had not - that was only posted up yesterday. Very interesting.
I wonder if they are related to the rallyraid controller - which has stopped being produced/sold now.
Further investigation required.... some reading for today I think!
I have left a message and invited him (Beady) to join the forum. Sorry, if I have stepped on anyone's toes and not asked first.
He has my email address so I hope I get a response.
Another source of information, assuming he is willing to get involved, is Collin from Blackbox Systems who is already a member on here.
Hi Dave, and everyone else on here.
some nice info on here ,hopefully, I can add some more useful stuff.
but first Sloth...
can I ask for some more info on your CAN data input into the DDE4 ecu for road speed?
Not sure if any of you have this doc. BMW CAN info file
I have had issues with BMW taking down stuff we have done/posted so I am now always cautious of what I post, hence the ZIP password,
Welcome BeaDy. That was quick .... 2 hours ! The ink was barely dry on the invitation !
There are a lot of clever buggers on here. You will feel at home.
BeaDy wrote:
Hi Dave, and everyone else on here.
some nice info on here ,hopefully, I can add some more useful stuff.but first Sloth...
can I ask for some more info on your CAN data input into the DDE4 ecu for road speed?Not sure if any of you have this doc. BMW CAN info file
I have had issues with BMW taking down stuff we have done/posted so I am now always cautious of what I post, hence the ZIP password,
Hello!
I will have to dig everything out - I'm still working full time at the moment looking after our infrastructure to support a whole call centre working remotely. I can't complain, but it does mean by the time I get home its usually nap time and repeat :)
From what I recall - the road speed into the DDE came from the ABS ECU on the E39, so to simulate it we were feeding data from a USB CAN interface that just emulated what the DDE expected to receive from the E39's ABS ECU. That worked - although the value needed some massaging to actually read correctly. Bearing in mind we've been trying to use the Thor auto ECU and work just with CAN, the plan was to build a box to go between the DDE and P38 auto ECU and manipulate the CAN messages (and add others from analogue signals as required) on the fly.
Things have stalled as other projects/problems have come up - but I'd still love to get to the bottom of it and revisit the engine swap. I haven't ever looked at the analogue gearbox controllers though - I presume your solution was to take the CAN messages from the DDE and output those as voltages on the various lines?
I'm glad someone else is trying to make this work though and has actually gotten somewhere! I'll throw whatever I can into the mix once I find everything. Might be a couple of days - the bank holiday should be quieter I hope.
some more info for all who want to have a play....
Back when it was all in monochrome.... there was no simple/small programmable CAN microcontroller systems so I made a CAN bus system using a PIC 18F2680 and added aULN2003 so I had some 0.5A outputs for controlling things , for use on the race cars it was very reliable, we used it as an emulator to fool the later DDE5 ecu into thinking it had a whole car attached to it, otherwise it was in a 4000rpm rev limit limp mode.( we found how to write out the errors in the ECU years ago so now it's redundant)
This little thing proved very adaptable and is what I used on the P38 Autobox.
yes you are correct, basically, I read out the data from the DDE4 Can stream, and converted it into the PWM sign using one of the outputs from the ULN2003.
personnally I have no issues with using a PIC on cars but have had lots standard Arduinos fail, I put this down to the fact that the build quality of Arduino varies a lot depending on the source and they arent really designed to be abused on cars.
After I ran out of the initial run of PCB's I a company called found Modtronix made a similar thing and was industrial quality called the SBC28prc2 , this has been unbreakable, even when giving it abuse,
For the new BECM on the P38 Dogger I found this
![Barth Arduino controller](http://www.beady.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Range-Rover-custom-body-controller.png"Barth Controller")
Its first versions used a PIC so my CAN code worked easily , they have now moved to Arduino setup I can highly recommend the quality of these and the price is worth the reliability and no messing around the smaller version is only £87 from RS here STG-800 Arduino programmable CAN controller
That's some impressive info!
Sorry... I have been distracted pissing around with the V8 and it still isn't cooperating. What should have just prolonged its life a bit longer hasn't really worked out, so this might be moving back up the list to just dump the boat anchor.
That's neat on the PIC controller. Ultimately, long term I'd still like to go the CAN-CAN route long term, what I really need to get some more data on that is an E39 diesel auto to see what is going on. Typically nobody I know owns one, and the E60 spits out a different set of data.
Would you be open to sharing any of your work on the PIC controller/converter? It would be great to be able to look at making something like that work with the non-CAN gearbox controller to start with and get things moving. Hardware wise, we can likely build - PIC code on the other hand isn't something we've dabbled with much.
Cruise control is definitely on the list of things to make work once I the engine is in and running, so I'll be posting up the solution to that once we've figured it out. I know we were having some weird results on diagnostics when feeding the canbus speed back in, but it seems like it just needed some tweaking to get it right.
The part ordering has begun... it is quite a list
Am I the only one whose completely out of there depth with all this 🤣😂🤣
Pffft, I've no idea what I'm doing. Throw engine in make broom noise hopefully?
When the engine comes out, one of the first things to change will be the gearbox cooler. I've got a good condition setup from a diesel including the fan fitted as per the later models. Came complete with both temperature switches - so all I need to do is make up a loom with a relay for it to work automatically. Actual diesel P38s used the relay spot used for the ignition coils on a petrol, but I don't want to faff around with that too much - so it will be a standalone setup.
While the cooler and pipework are fairly recent, the fan is 20 years old, and despite being a Spal - had seen better days. Very noisy front bearing. Sadly they're not cheap, so I figured I had little to lose trying to crack it open and replace the bearing.
Manky fan:
Plastics into the ultrasonic cleaner. Actually the motor went for a swim too before starting to hack at it.
Reveal your secrets... will have to come up with something to reseal the area I attacked with a dremel, but I have an idea. The front bearing is a sealed 608 - just need to obtain one of those.
Smooth...