Go wash your mouth out with soap and water, why on earth would anyone want to spend on petrol , even at the current low prices, when they can run on LPG at just over half the price?

I believe the P suffix means it is the Piro system, no doubt Simon will pop up sooner or later and confirm, but the installation is the same on all the OMVL systems. I've just uploaded the installation manual to my Google Drive here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QUYczdyovWh4kzWAX7igisoVIrnT_aUU. If you can, it's better, on a car with a full flow heating system, to plumb the reducer in series with the heater matrix with the flow going through the reducer first. It ensures you get full flow and also warms up quicker.

Thanks Richard,

The previous setup had a T plumbed into the supply and return to the heater matrix, now I've moved the vaporiser I was just going to rotate them around 180 degrees and set it up the same. That's how mine is set up and it changes over within the first mile or so of driving.

Out of curiosity, what is a Piro system?

David.

It's just a later version of the OMVL XXI system with different firmware and a few extra features. There was the original OMVL Dream which was just called the 21, then it became the 21C, then 21N but by then they had gone over to Roman numerals making it the XXI-N and the the XXI-P for the Piro. When I first bought my Classic, with reducer in parallel, it would freeze within 300m on a cold day and the P38 the heater would drop to lukewarm at idle. On both I changed the plumbing to series which cured both problems as the coolant had to flow through both rather than having a choice of which way to go. On the GEMS it's much easier to get neat pipe runs doing it that way and there's also less joints to leak but IIRC it isn't as easy on a Thor.

Ahh! That makes sense.

Once this engine is in and running I'm thinking of having the ECU remapped by Mark Adams at Tornado Systems. He reckons it unleashes 10-15lbft more torque which will be beneficial when towing and fun when not towing!

Once that's been done I've got a funny feeling I might need another trip to Simon to get the LPG mapped properly.

David.

Mine is Tornado mapped..

Makes a difference to the low end grunt "slight" might be because my motor has been around the block LOL

dhallworth wrote:

I keep making myself more work on this car...

The steering box has been removed due to the leak, I bought one on eBay to fit to the car so that I can just get it finished and I can rebuilt this one at my leisure with a new seal if it's ok once I've stripped it down and checked it.

I was thinking about this VSE earlier and remembered that it took an awful long time for it to warm up and switch to LPG. Looking at the setup today I decided to make a load of changes. The LPG ECU was mounted on a bracket mounted to the top of the drivers side shock absorber mounting and the reducer was mounted onto the other side of the car.

The installation looked a mess as all of the wiring was tied to the bulkhead and I didn't like it.

Today I've removed all of the LPG wiring, relocated the ECU into the empty box behind the battery (where the ECU sits on a GEMS car), relocated the bracket for the vaporiser to the drivers side shock mount, and started to tidy everything up. This has massively reduced the length of the coolant pipes as they no longer have to run the width of the bulkhead to get to the reducer and it keeps a lot of the LPG wiring hidden under the battery cover when it's fitted.

My other VSE has the gas installed in a similar manner and it looks much tidier under the bonnet.

Annoyingly, moving the reducer to the other side means I need to reroute the LPG pipe from the tank as it runs down the NS chassis leg. To do that, I'm going to have to rotate the tank around 90 degrees too but it'll be worth it when it's finished. Looking at the pipe from the tank to the engine bay today I noticed there's a union joining the pipe under the B pillar of the car. It probably isn't an issue but I'd rather it was one piece from front to back so I've ordered 6 metres of pipe, some P clips and some tech screws to mount it.

The reducer is covered in coolant stains and looks awful, I've tried rebuilding these before and have never had good results so I'm going to replace it whilst I'm at it.

The ECU has REG by OMVL written on the front of it. On the label it's got DREAM XXI-P. I don't suppose anybody knows where I can get a manual/wiring diagram for this setup?

Thanks,
David.

Wiring diagram is included with the software download - which you can get from https://www.lpgshop.co.uk/lpg-diagnostic-software/

This should be the one you want
OMVL Dream XXI P Diagnostic Software: Dream XXI-P 2.3.00.zip[21.8MB]

https://www.lpgshop.co.uk/content/downloads/OMVL/Dream%20XXI-P%202.3.00.zip
StrangeRover wrote:

At the risk of being lynched..

How about removing the system altogether?

"dons tin hat"

Still not got yours fixed I guess?

Edit - just realised Richard posted the download above but I missed his reply.

BrianH wrote:

Still not got yours fixed I guess?

He's only a youngster with too much disposable income and likes wasting money......

Thanks both. Have got the diagrams downloaded now. Shame the installation instructions are in Italian though! Hopefully I can remember where things go anyway :)

David.

The one I uploaded is the English version.

Ah ha! Thanks Richard.

Got it all printed so I can take a copy into the workshop tomorrow.

David.

dhallworth wrote:

Thanks both. Have got the diagrams downloaded now. Shame the installation instructions are in Italian though! Hopefully I can remember where things go anyway :)

David.

Scroll further down and you will find the English after the Italian. Thats the case with a lot of the AEB based manuals. Page 16 of the pdf onwards is English.

Speak to Simon (LPGC).

The LPG was fitted on my VSE but wasn't working when I got it. I replaced all the filters and the reducer but the auto calibration on it used to just stall constantly.

We tied in a trip to visit Simon in Yorkshire whilst we were away. Within minutes he'd diagnosed it as being an ECU fault. The ECU was swapped, a new changeover switch was fitted as the new ECU needed a different switch, and it was then running well on LPG at idle. We then spent an hour driving the car with Simon fettling the LPG from the passengers seat.

The result... there is now no discernible difference in the drive/performance of this car between Petrol and LPG. This car has only done 650 miles since it's MOT in July last year so it's not a massive financial saving for me. I do like filling up at 50p a litre though! The other major attraction is just how clean the oil stays.

David.

The replacement steering box arrived today so i could swap it out and get the engine back in and look to rebuild this one at my peril.

I’ve made a shopping list of the last few bits I need tonight. I’m going to get these ordered this week and I’ve taken next week off work to try and get this buttoned up once and for all.

David.

Just caught up with this thread but Dave phoned me yesterday, we discussed aspects of his LPG install including options for a replacement reducer.

Piro based systems were only made for a few years, OMVL intended them to supersede all the Dream ECU (AEB2568) based systems but the ECUs had problems from the outset which were never fully sorted in any firmware version and they lack features (such as petrol addition capability) compared to even the older AEB2568's they replaced. The switch on the dash looks very similar to the usual AEB119B switches and use the same connector but are incompatible with AEB119B's, the Map sensor looks like a usual AEB025 but the pressure and vacuum pipe positions are swapped and they're not quite fully compatible with AEB025's, they need a specific Piro interface cable and they're calibrated in a different way to AEB2568's.. There's no 'fuel trim bank 2', instead they have a separate map for each bank of cylinders. That said, good results can be had from them and it's still possible to buy spare parts like switches and map sensors.

Well, as per Simon's recommendation the new reducer turned up today. It's very nicely packaged and is really quite small and refined.

In the manual it says it supports up to 350bhp when using both LPG outlets or 250bhp when using a single. As our engine has been fettled with and there's a possibility it's going to be remapped as well I'm going to fit the second outlet and run one to each bank of injectors.

NGK Plugs, Magnecor KV85 Plug Leads, and a new MAF have all been ordered today as well. Hopefully it all arrives quickly so we can make some progress!

David.

Looks like a neat piece of kit.

Nicely made bit of kit, all machined alloy not like most that are cast Mazak (aka Zamak or Monkey metal) which means they are virtually impossible to rebuild as the steel screws seize in and shear off when you try to take them apart.

I've always been able to get my old ones apart and back together without any problems but they've never performed right after being rebuilt. I've done 3 or 4 now. I'm pretty sure Simon (might have been someone else) told me that rebuilding them is a waste of time anyway :)

David.

That does look shiny.

I have OMVL Dream something something that I've taken off of mine for the time being - I may visit refitting it all down the road - once I've tidied that wiring up and now that I've seen that... perhaps acquired one of those too!

Some are worse than others but when you spend £25 on a rebuild kit only to find bolts shear off so you have to spend £75 on a new reducer, you may as well have saved the £25. It's not like a new reducer is expensive anyway.