Morat wrote:
The Duchess has a new LPG reducer courtesy of Simon the LPG wizard. LPG is 99ppl round here vs Petrol at 130ppl but it's still a saving I guess.
Running a treat!! Thank you Simon :D
Morat wrote:
The Duchess has a new LPG reducer courtesy of Simon the LPG wizard. LPG is 99ppl round here vs Petrol at 130ppl but it's still a saving I guess.
Running a treat!! Thank you Simon :D
Yesterday I went to the garage to retrieve the queen and once again cranking and not start ... puzzled by the event, i decided to apply Richard's advice and fire up the nano and inserted the EKA, then tried the procedure to no avail, I mean my car is totally "insensible" to any turn of the key that is not opening/closing the car itself. So the manual inserting of the EKA will have to wait another time ....
I thought to attack then the only other thing I could, this is the fuel inertial switch off.
After some acrobatics as I could only open the door a little, enough to loose the seal, I pulled off the panel and I found one of the cables loose in the connector, hence the random activation .... well, once fixed HARD since then I have been using the P38 for two days and multiple starts with no further issues!
I hope I am done .... on to the next thing :-)
I've rebuilt a EAS valve block. It was the perfect activity for a wet and windy Sunday afternoon and it was nice to get it off The List. Whether it works or not remains to be seen. The driver pack looks suspiciously crispy on the back...
I'm hoping to have a full Valve Block/Driver Pack/Compressor setup in the plastic box so I can stick it in the boot for long journeys.
I have a compressor and a driver pack in the boot for long trips, but a valve block might be overkill ...
I have always had water ingress into the spare wheel well. First investigations (20 years ago now) showed the tell tale marks of seepage from the rear tailgate seal. After many attempts to implement the tried and trusted remedies of cutting drainage slots in the seal, removing and relocating the seal and ‘adjusting’ the bodywork where the seal fits onto I managed to reduce the ‘leak’ but never eradicate it completely. I then decided to drill a small hole in the metal bung at the bottom of the spare wheel well to drain the persistent leak.
A few years ago I noticed that the tell tale runs from the top of the wheel well were completely dried out and so cleaned them off. Leakage still remained but the tell tale runs marks did not reappear. I assumed that a small amount of water was getting in through the small drainage hole I had drilled during wet weather and draining the same way weather permitted. Not a huge problem but the rear screens still fogged up particularly if the sun came out after a bit of wet weather. I purchased a couple of small moisture soaking up cushions which, when placed on the luggage space cover, did an admirable job of reducing the problem even though they did require regular ‘recovery’ in the microwave!
Six months ago I heaved the spare wheel out of the well to clean it up a bit and for the first time noticed that where the lifting straps are fixed in the wheel well the paintwork was beginning to bubble a bit. On removing the strap mounting brackets some corrosion and holes became apparent. It appears that water was getting in, thrown up from the road surface whilst driving.
The holes were patched/filled and two largish fibreglass mats resined in place before the whole area was repainted and the straps and mounting brackets refitted. Underneath the vehicle the areas of the holes was filled and then well undersealed. Since then I have inspected the wheel well regularly particularly after any rain and it has remained dry and the internal fogging up issue has completely disappeared.
So today I have inserted a plug into the small drainage hole I drilled all those years ago!