Finally started the job of breaking it up - i think one more day and the engine will be out. Then its suspension bits off, then doors etc (as will be useful to someone), then that's about it apart from the odds and sods you like to keep like nuts and bolts and wiring. Hopefully another day this Bank Holiday will be reasonable and I can get on with things more. Really wanna get Michael back on the road as I really miss driving him!
Thanks guys - I'll check with my local breaker to see if they can collect with no wheels first then - if not a set of old wheels is in order..... roll on the dryer weather so I can finally get it sorted - really miss driving the old guy about!
Small update - damn the snow! I started to strip the car down - just before (and during) I tried to start him and he almost ran - few chugs then died and the exhaust warmed up a bit so he is firing .... so that's good enough for me - no more bothering to start till the lump is swapped over.
So dash is removed and the blend motors are out (useful as I need a set - assuming they're OK!)
Various bits off - and plenty of spare screws and bolts now! LOL
I'll start to pop stuff up on the Bay of E I guess to see any interest - and then go from there - hopefully recover some of the cost.
I will swap over the Stormers as not only are they nice looking but the tyres are a bit better than on my RR Sport wheels. I'll need to find some really cheap and crappy wheels for it so the scrap man can take it away when I am finished with it - any ideas for the cheapest option?
Hopefully if the weather improves I can have Michael up and running in a month or two....
no10chris wrote:
Mine was starting for a few seconds, so fuel must of been present to a degree, but once it fired the pressure wasn’t good enough, if your pulling it out, I wouldn’t bother to much as you know it was running ok before, I bet once transplanted it starts straight away
Good point - just wanted to be 100% sure..... I'll chuck some more fuel in and swap the starter as it's a pretty quick job hopefully
Orangebean wrote:
Like Chris says- from empty it can take 15 litres to pull though enough to run- especially if it's on a slope
I've been ill so not tried but would it still fill the fuel rail if this was the case?
Probably leaky rocker box gasket dripping oil down on a vey hot exhaust....... I presume that's a problem on the L322 just like our P38's?
no10chris wrote:
I had one that was running nice, stopped and it wouldn’t start, like you the fuel light was on, took 3 cans before it would start, give it a shot of easy start, should fire up !
I thought I was being naughty thinking about easystart - but I'll bung some more petrol in and try some too....
Gilbertd wrote:
If the starter is losing drive then it has to be a problem with either the starter or the ring gear. It's a pre-engaged starter so should stay engaged all the time you keep the key turned not lose drive like the old bendix type.
Thanks - I thought as much..... so I'll swap it out and fingers crossed.
Well my nephew came over last week to help me get the engine out of Michael, and to start the removal of the 'new' engine.
The day started well and we got the old one to the point of needing a lift off the mounts and a quick drop to undo the bellhousing bolts. We stopped for lunch and then thought we'd start the new one and get it running nicely up to temperature so we could check it over fully.
IT WON'T START!!
We added £5 of fuel as the yellow light was on. It pumps fuel to the rail ok as far as I can tell.... It has a spark (although looks a tad weak to me)... and we had a fully charged battery PLUS my nephews Fiesta hooked up with jump leads running.
It sometimes tries to fire but the starter grinds and then looses drive to the flywheel just before it starts properly. It just won't actually start. I tried to swap the coils form Michael as I renewed then last year, but no change.
I wonder if I swap the starter it will help it start up by spinning better? What else could it be? After goign at it for several hours we gave up as it got cold again! Sigh
HAPPY NEW YEAR by the way!
Hmmm... this car is alive I think! Started to dismantle all the bits from the other car ready to take the knackered engine out... and ......
Alarm starts going off on this one! Unlocked and it stopped - locked, all seems OK. Half hour later alarm again. Battery fine as car started perfectly. I've ended up having to disconnect it! Sigh. What is it with these bloody cars!? Hopefully this weekend the other car will be free of engine and this time I am goign to clean up the engine compartment, and also check steering box etc while there's lots of space.
no10chris wrote:
I’ve got 20” khans, I must admit the ride is harder, but the handling is superb, I throw it around like it’s a car..
Blimey - now I'm thinking about keeping them!
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
The scrape might just be lacquer? Wet it. If it disappears when wet then you'll get away with just clearcoating it.
As OB says, the seat leather is an easy fix. I followed in his footsteps and bought dye from scuffmaster to re-do my beige steering wheel. Looks brand new.
The drivers leather is much worse than it looks - very very badly cracked and very crispy to the touch.
Orangebean wrote:
All looks eminently fixable- seat leather is an easy refurb, and door could be blown over on just that panel (can't see if it's just a scrape or dented though).
The wheels- if you swap them make sure you swap the spigot rings as well, and make sure you stock up on Fixadent. They may look pretty but they won't ride as well as the standard wheel/ tyre combination. Chris might have a view on that as I think he has 22" Kahn's or something on his.
Definitely a nasty dented in lower door..... so needs replacing i think. I also noticed the passenger door is not easy to open - so not sure whats going on there. The rear wing bodge is more of a worry on the overall quality of the shell in all honesty..... it's bubbling through the filler.
I did think the same about those wheels - I changed my original 16's for a set of RR Sport 19's and it's OK but noticeably less 'soft' shall we say. Was a bit worried that I'd make it harsh.
It's now sunk on the passenger lower side this evening so another issue - could be nothing more than an O-ring i guess.
Aragorn wrote:
Oh its not the expansion tank, its the actual end tank on the new radiator thats cracked!!
Its obviously been a return or something. Box was all bashed up, and the radiator itself had been spraypainted black?!
Another new one arrived today, fingers crossed this time!
Holy crap - that's awful! Mind you my new alloy rad on my TF leaks as it's such a pile of crap - so has to be replaced - so I know how you feel!
OK Pics:
Front
Stormer Alloys
Nasty scrape down drivers door
Tatty interior
Had him running for a couple of hours and no overheating or water loss at all. Checked engine oil (bit low and black) also checked Auto Gearbox fluid (low) so that may account for the naff gear changes.
The rear drivers side wing has been bodged at some point with filler - good paint job, but you can tell if you know what the body line should be like.
Managed to get the wipers working, was the connector to the motor - they're a bit jittery but they work.
All in all he's a bit of a shed, with a good engine. The interior is shot, including the dash (vents sticking out and it's all bent - think badly fitted after the heater matrix was replaced).
Aragorn wrote:
Well, fitted the new radiator today (from the above link).
And the fkn thing is leaking from a crack in the lower end tank.
The world is clearly out to get me!
I had this on my MGTF - New alloy rad, manifold gasket etc - turned out to be minuscule cracks in the expansion tank! I guess plastic that gets really hot don't last forever.
I am happy bunny then! Well at least I will be when I get the engine swapped over! LOL
Here it is on the left on my drive in the dark... more to follow:
Gilbertd wrote:
If they look like this (but with 4 thin pipes coming out of them)
http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/matrix-xj-544-18-injector-rail-4-cylinder-black/
they are Matrix. Not cheap but damn near bomb proof and last for ever.
Mine look just like that with a Zavoli sticker on them.... no wonder I've had no issues :-)
Lpgc wrote:
AdamElphick wrote:
I have had very reliable service from my ancient Zavoli GE system on Michael. Apart from needing filters and an age related leak sorted it's been pretty good..... as there are newer versions I am sure they would be as good.
Well, Zavoli ECU's are fairly generic AEB ECU's so no problem with reliability there, Zavoli reducers are OK, Zavoli own brand injectors not great but sometimes they were fitted with 'Matrix' injectors which really are good.
Mines got two black things, one on each rocker cover, then the manifold was drilled and tapped... All done in Malaysia where it first lived. Must admit the few things I've done have all been pretty simple.