Hi All,
I have had the Pscan.uk diagnostic/programing unit since it's early days, and it's been really helpful sorting things on my MGTF and my MGZS....
Some time ago I asked the maker about getting it to be compatible with the GEMS Range Rover as GEMS is so close to MEMS, and both were compatible with the T4 units at Rover.... well he has just released the initial Firmware upgrade to get this started:
Reads both OBD2 error codes and Landrover proprietary codes.
Reset error codes.
The live data is the same as data as that exposed to an OBD2 tool as this appears to be what a factory tool does.
Learning of EMS code from 10AS (tested) and BECM (untested).
Specifically this puts the GEMS ECU into a mode such that after a power cycle it will learn the next 10AS / BECM code that it sees, it is not immediately learned.
Testing of immobiliser status.
This appears to be of use only on the first power cycle that an EMS is learned following the above EMS learning mode is engaged.
Once an EMS code is learned and then power cycled again the status is not useful.
Resetting of adaptations is not yet implemented.
Output actuation is not yet implemented.
So it looks like another really useful (and not costly) diagnostic tool has arrived for us here too!
Link to their support forum on www.the-t-bar.com (MGF/TF forum who offered the space when the other forum he used vanished!)👍
Hi All,
So my replacement engine is out of the donor car and cleaned. I snapped one of the exhaust manifold bolts and have had no luck removing it even with a stud extractor, so I'm going to drill it out and helicoil it. My question is what size do I need? I'm pretty sure they are 8mm but what thread pitch?
Thanks as always.... He's almost back together!
OK it's come to the time I have got off almost all i want from the spare car - and I need to swap the alloys out for something cheap so it can still roll. I have one spare to use, just need to either find 3 more or my other option is what other wheels fit a P38? It doesn't matter about size as long as the PCD/Fit will allow it to roll on to a flat bed!
Hope someone can advise what I could potentially check the Bay of E for?
Thanks,
Adam
Hi All,
Well I still can't work out the issue with MIchael's clacky engine (when warm) and looking at replacement second hand lumps they are going for £600 (ish) upwards.
Anyway a M Reg 4.6 HSE with 150K on the clock and no MOT has come up very close to me. It hadn't started for a few months and the seller said he didn't think it would start, but I decided to go and have a look anyway. I got there and he said he'd try to start it using his van if I wanted to help... we hooked it up on jump leads, let it charge for a few minutes, turned the key and ..... he fired up! I have to say not much crap came out of the exhaust for a car that's sat for months, and the engine was very quiet for a V8. I also was shown about £700 worth of work that was done earlier in the year - new rad, water pump and heater matrix, along with a few other bits. After 20 minutes of running there was no overheating, no funny noises, and when we switched it off and tried to start it again it worked - so the alternator is obviously OK too.
The body work is a different shade of blue so no panels are good for me, although there are good panels in 965 colour code. It has Stormer alloys, which I am not sure I want yet, so I am pretty sure I can recoup my money OK.
So I am thinking of taking some holiday days, whipping the engine out of Michael (which is annoying as I did the mini refurb on it!), keeping the LPG system intact but out of the way. Then getting the engine out of the new Rangie, do the mini refurb - core plugs, seals etc - and chucking it in Michael, then popping the LPG system on it eh voila!
What does everyone think? I am sure I'll have lots of spares for mine, as well as bit's to sell to recoup some costs... so as long as it's a good engine (which it certainly sounds like) then I am getting my Rangie back for winter! Then he needs an MOT which he passed with no advisories last time.
Seems a pity to essentially scrap the new one, as it's not bad at all, but needs must!
Hi Guys, This is carrying on form my 'clack' thread - but I think that's got a bit 'what if' so I thougth a specific question deserves a new thread - of not then apologies.
So I have still not separated the gearbox/engine as I've not been that well lately - however I have been Googling like mad! I found a video with EXACTLY the same noise I get when the engine is warm:
So this got me thinking if there were any solutions to do woth the oil rather than a mechanical issue in the bellhousing....
I found this video:
So today as I feel a bit better I raised the old boy up and took the sump off..... but the pickup is rock solid... damn that quick fix idea is gone now!
So a bit more Googling raised this:
The thread suggests it's all down to the oil thinning too much...... a few people put in cooler thermostats and thicker oil... but that got me thinking about the oil pump itself. Bearing in mind he has 170K on the clock almost it must be worn right? I wonder if all the engine work I did stirred up enough much that it caused enough wear in the pump to cause it to not give enough pressure when the oil is hot? I knwo I can hear the noise more on the bellhousing are, but listenign to the videos that seems to be generally the same, maybe it's just acting like a resonator?
I guess I might be barking up the wrong tree but thought I'd throw myself on your collective knowledge and ask first..... it just seems to me to be more 'oil' based that 'cracked flex plate' as it happens as soon as it warms up?
Thanks
HI Mod Team.. just a quick note that Forefox is starting to report this site's SSL cert is not correct. MIght be worth checking as google has set some SSL suppliers as untrusted (we had the problem at work!).
Adam
Well I do wonder if these bloody trucks are alive (and extremely grumpy!!)....
A week or so on from treating him to a set of nice blue carpets and..... he's developed a clack! It's not there when he's started but as soon as he warms up there it is. Like a light metalic clacking. Put the revs up very slightly and it dissapears! I did an oil change as I hadn't done it since I had the engine out and put it back in with new seals etc.... so I thought maybe it needed that - no difference!
Just as I started to really enjoy driving him with the new seats and carpets he fights me again!
Anyone have anyt ideas? Woudl it help if I uploaded a sound byte of it?
Thanks
Picked up a set of lovely blue carpets for £100..... Also a boot liner for £10 (just needs a bit of matching carpet stuck to it i think now) - Goodness knows why these photos won't go the right way up!!
I was looking about on Google for something and suddeny came upon this from another site:
The Gems engine mod on alty is a must, run a thick cable from alt to battery direct and three things happen.
1 Brighter lights
2 You automatically double up your starter cable, in effect the starter turns alot quicker
3 Shorter cable = less voltage drop to battery keeping it in its ideal charge state
So I guess the question is are there any negative effects? If not then I am off to the motor factors soon to buy a decent bit of red battery cable and some ends!
I want to change the LPG filters (as far as I know they have never been changed!) but I am not sure the size! The photo of the existing one is below - but matching ones with similar codes vary on inlet/outlet size!
I've found a supplier on the Bay of E - advice please as I'd like to do them at the weekend...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112220259969
Found the final coolant leak the other day - turned out to be the T-piece from the heater feed pipe to the evaporator - a TINY drip which was dripping down on the exhast manifold (hence the morning steam from the exhaust wrap as it heated up!). On removing the T-piece it was obvious one jubilee clip had been overtightened, and squashed the plastic a bit. Also to me the heater pipe seems to be a big bigger than the T-piece and so is overly squashed anyway. I wrapped the ends in PTFE tape and gently tightened again, and the leak has stopped for now.
I want to change the T-piece anyway now and have seen some alloy versions on eBay so I was wondering if a 20mm/16mm/20mm joiner would be the right size?
Thanks all you gurus!
OK so I got some suspension bag O-rings and dod the rear drivers side as the car was drooping over night at that corner...... double checked and no bubles now at the joint so woohoo... all done!
Well not quite (it is British after all!)
I popped it up to high ride hight on Staurday evening and this morning came out to him leaning forward with the front drivers side drooping ride down!! The weird thing is that while I was doing the rear I popped off the front arch liner and squirted soapy water all over the bag top to ake sure it didn't need the o-rings doing too..... and there was no bubbling.
So am I just unlucky that the front o-rings have gone now the backs are OK? Hopefully it's not the air bag itself, although it is so slow (it's fine during the day if you drive it about) I'd be surprised if the bag itself was at fault?
Hi all.. bit of advice. When I start the car it clacks - sounds like a sticking lifter to me - and started suddenly during this cold snap. If I raise the revs for a few seconds, then give it a quick rev the noise stops and it's all OK until the next morning. I popped in some valve lifter treatment (Wynns) and it definitely stops quicker now. Yesterday it didn't happen at all, then today it did - but went away after a single rev.
Question I suppose is... do we think it's a sticky lifter? If so what is the best course of action? Obviously the engine was in my garden for several weeks, and I cleaned the central tunnel area etc, and resealed stuff, including various gasket areas. So after a couple of months could something that I dislodged had caused the lifter to stick and/or drain over night? If so am I best using some flushing oil (or I'm told it's just as good to replace 1 litre of oil with ATF and run that for a week or so before doing an oil change?) and then change the oil/filter? Is some Molyslip worth bunging in? Or some more of the valve lifter treatment?
Any advice appreciated!
Managed to nab a set of oxford seats and door cards for £125.... lovely condition... except passenger side airbag had gone off... easy to fix as my '98 doesnt have side airbags... so i sorted the airbag canister, fixed the foam and then sewed it by hand along the existing holes - you can't see it at all - loosks lke factory sewing!
Here they are with the passenger not fitted yet:
Hi All.. me again!
So I've now done all the core plugs etc and flx plate (as per my thread on the dark side), and also cleaned and refilled the cooling system. All is going well, and I bled the brakes today to stop the intermittent ABS ligt coming on. Seems to have worked so far after testing.
Next is the gearbox filter and fluid change. I have been soaking the transmission sump bolts for the last 2 days with squirts of release fluid (great stuff I gt from Lidl of all places). This stuff has helped me get subframe bolts out of my MGTF which normally snap, plus a holst of usually nightmare bolts. However I can only get 3 of the 6 transmission sump bolts to move. I don't want to force them too much, so I've been using my 1/4" socket set, so I can 'feel' things much better. 3 of the bolts undid after a quick 'crack', which I presume was the alloy/steel gunk in the little sump pegs loosening on the bolts. But 3 just wont budge! Not sure what I can safely do to get them to move?! I realised after one of the bolts loosened that they poke right through the transmission casing at the top, so I have also now soaked the top of them in the fluid, hoping that will penetrate into the top of the threads.
Anyone got any ideas? I've watched a few YouTube videos on the subject and they all show them (typically) just undoing! Of course the videos were American, where they don't need to put salt and other associated crap on their roads in Winter! All help appreciated, as I'd like to do as much preventative manitenance as possible on the old guy as he was my Dads, and I inherited him when he died.
Hi everyone - new here (been only on the other site till Chris told me this one existed).....
I have refreshed by old mans engine - new core plugs, seals, filters, gaskets (apart from HG), flex plate (lucky as it had 4 cracks in it!), and cleaned all the casing, wiring and connectors. As I was doing it, which was the first time I touched an engine since my 1967 Mini 850, I noticed the waterways all had a light coating of rust deposit. Not thick but a dusting almost. I also have an MGTF and the way we clean our colling systems in those is with a crushed up dishwasher tablet dissolved and then run for a few hours. Do you think that woudl be OK in the P38? I mean both are alloy engines, and it's amazing the crap it takes out I tell you! Even after a horrible oil/water head gasket failure the K series waterways come up like new with it. Anyway I just wanted to aks as it present he is just full of water as it was the first fill to check everything was OK. I will give him proper OAT once I know what to clean it all with internally.
Thanks,
Adam