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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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The thing is i am getting conflicting results on Google about the inlet and outlet size. I think it's 11mm / 11mm (only because more sites say this!) - and the new one is 12mm / 12mm - so I think it's correct. I don't want to take the old ones off until I get the new ones as I am using the car every day at the moment.

The pipework looks good so I think I am OK keeping that?

I want to change the LPG filters (as far as I know they have never been changed!) but I am not sure the size! The photo of the existing one is below - but matching ones with similar codes vary on inlet/outlet size!

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I've found a supplier on the Bay of E - advice please as I'd like to do them at the weekend...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112220259969

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Mine only started dropping on the front corner after i fixed all the air leaking out from the rear o-rings! LOL Ho hum - you fix one thing and it tries to kill itself with another!

Still drooping - so I got underneath yesterday inbetween the snow and checked the height sensors.

On the front drivers corner that droops there was a nut (now I know where it went when I was doing the engine refresh and dropped it!) jammed against the connector, forcing it slightly outwards. I took the connector off and sprayed electrical contact cleaner in both sides. Then I worked it on and off quite a bit and then let it all dry before popping back togther. However this morning - drooping again!

I think I need to get one of those EAS cables - the OBDII to Serial/USB type - I have the EAS Unlock software already. At least I should be able to see if the height sensor is giving the wrong height reading I guess? I don't supose it matters which one I get off the Bay of E?

Tomorrow I'll change the rear brake pads as they are a bit squeaky now.... oh the joy of the P38!

All done last weekend - I got the 19/16/19 one - pefect fit - no leak! Woohoo

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I bought some faux suede material with a slight grain in cream from the Bay of E... I stripped the old stuff off and cleaned the surface of all loose foamy stuff.

I then sanded it lightly and sprayed on high temp contact adhesive doing a section at a time. I did the same to the material (a bit at a time again) - let them dry and then pressed them down, stretching and squeezing in to the shapes as I went. It came out like new and a year later still looks great. Cost me about £40 all in I think. Plus there's absolutely no foam to fall to bits again under the material.

I also stripped the crap flock off the side trims and covered them in the same faux suede.

Stripped and ready to cover:
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Side trims covered (forgot to take pics of main part at this point!):
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Just had a thought - for the last year or so I would randomly get an EAS fault while it was pumping up from a 'flat' morning - I'd pop the relay and fuse ou for the suspension, wait few minutes, pop back in and it woudl carry on OK. Could that have been the ride height sensor maybe flipping the error? Maybe it's just decided to give up the ghost after I fixed the back? Not sure how I check though?

Thanks - will grab a metal T-piece then - something else to do at the weekend!

Thanks guys - it's a good old GEMS Rangie - assume the pipes are the same size? It heats up really well in parallel so will probably leave it like that.

Thanks guys. It only drops on that corner - all other corners stay up though - so it's not levelling itself off. When i popped it on full height and left it the next mornign it was right down on the drivers front and right up on the opposite corner! MOre due to the weight of the engine causing the rear end to raise a sthe fornt lowered I reckon. It was diagonally leaning!
The bags all 'look' good - I changed the rears a couple of years ago, and at some point the fornt look like they have been done as they look pretty good too. When it drops the air tank must empty too as it took almost 15 minutes before the front corner rose yesterday evening - indicating the pressure tank needed to fill first i think?

It's odd that it was the rear causing it previous to my new o-rings (or at least I think it was!) and now it's moved to the front? I'm baffled!

How about some grey leather off eBay and some Evostick? I am thinking of doing this in the Summer.

Found the final coolant leak the other day - turned out to be the T-piece from the heater feed pipe to the evaporator - a TINY drip which was dripping down on the exhast manifold (hence the morning steam from the exhaust wrap as it heated up!). On removing the T-piece it was obvious one jubilee clip had been overtightened, and squashed the plastic a bit. Also to me the heater pipe seems to be a big bigger than the T-piece and so is overly squashed anyway. I wrapped the ends in PTFE tape and gently tightened again, and the leak has stopped for now.

I want to change the T-piece anyway now and have seen some alloy versions on eBay so I was wondering if a 20mm/16mm/20mm joiner would be the right size?

Thanks all you gurus!

The car hadn't clacked the last few days until this afternoon when I turned him over to pump the suspension back up... it was quite a short clack ... so I think the valve lubricant may be working - albeit rather slowly!

OK so I got some suspension bag O-rings and dod the rear drivers side as the car was drooping over night at that corner...... double checked and no bubles now at the joint so woohoo... all done!

Well not quite (it is British after all!)

I popped it up to high ride hight on Staurday evening and this morning came out to him leaning forward with the front drivers side drooping ride down!! The weird thing is that while I was doing the rear I popped off the front arch liner and squirted soapy water all over the bag top to ake sure it didn't need the o-rings doing too..... and there was no bubbling.

So am I just unlucky that the front o-rings have gone now the backs are OK? Hopefully it's not the air bag itself, although it is so slow (it's fine during the day if you drive it about) I'd be surprised if the bag itself was at fault?

LOL....

Really bugs me that he never made any untoward noises etc, so I treat him to new core plugs and seals and now he makes a rattling noise!! GRRRR

I wrapped mine when they were off for the engnie refresh (as the the bolts ALL had to be cut off along with the brass studs!). I typically bought cheap wrap it seems as he does steam a bit on these cold mornings, but I have to say the engine compartment seems a bit cooler.

I am thinking of maybe finding some thermal gaskets thought in the Spring, just to stop too much transfer of heat to the head. I know this is an issue with eth K-Series I have, so assume it's a general issue. Although as others have said - in the UK climate it's less of an issue.

Orangebean wrote:

You could try sticking a 5W-40 in there for the winter

Oh - didn't know I could! I assumed without 10-40 he'd explode or something? (words added for dramatic effect LOL)

Blimey - hoping I don't need to suddenly do the camshaft and oil pump! The engine out and core plugs and various seals is the most I've ever done to a lump this big!

Hi, sorry for delay replying - It's 10-40 oil. Always use that in him.

Hi all.. bit of advice. When I start the car it clacks - sounds like a sticking lifter to me - and started suddenly during this cold snap. If I raise the revs for a few seconds, then give it a quick rev the noise stops and it's all OK until the next morning. I popped in some valve lifter treatment (Wynns) and it definitely stops quicker now. Yesterday it didn't happen at all, then today it did - but went away after a single rev.
Question I suppose is... do we think it's a sticky lifter? If so what is the best course of action? Obviously the engine was in my garden for several weeks, and I cleaned the central tunnel area etc, and resealed stuff, including various gasket areas. So after a couple of months could something that I dislodged had caused the lifter to stick and/or drain over night? If so am I best using some flushing oil (or I'm told it's just as good to replace 1 litre of oil with ATF and run that for a week or so before doing an oil change?) and then change the oil/filter? Is some Molyslip worth bunging in? Or some more of the valve lifter treatment?
Any advice appreciated!