Ah OK makes sense.....
I'll try and give it a go tomorrow as alone today!
I took off the fan and used my torque wrench to turn the crank while I had the cover off... there was only that one bent tooth. Also when I bent it back but it was touching it was a very different noise, more tap than clack. Plus it happened straight away.
This clacking noise is definitely not there when cold at all. Also if I raise the revs very slightly it doesn't get louder, in fact it seems to get quieter! It's still faintly there, although let's face it the V8 is not a completely silent lump anyway.
The thing I don't get is that most noises caused by wear are there when cold as the tolerance is higher, then as an engine warms it expands slightly and the tolerance lowers... unless I am getting is wrong? Unless it's caused by the oil thinning as it heats up? Initially I thought that and that's why I did an oil change when it first happened.
Ferryman - what will popping the plugs when hot and turning over tell me? I'm keen to learn as my little K-Series TF is a very different beast to this V8!
OK well here are the pics:
I straightened the central pin of the CPS as a temporary measure. It has also got wear marks on it so needs changing.
I also straightened the bent teeth. Initially I hadn't bent them back enough and had a very light tick... 1mm more and it was all silent again.
I was very hopeful.... engine quiet as a mouse.... left it running as it hadn't been started for a week and the battery had needed charging.... then...
Engine warms up and.....
CLACK CLACK CLACK
Absolutely no change at all!! I think I just happened to find the bent bits, and these had no connection to the clack at all! The engine does run a bit smoother now, and thinking about it he had lost a tiny bit of pick up power (although at speed no change).... so now I am at a loss AGAIN! Really fed up! :-(
OK I finally have the inspection plate off (typically one rounded bolt head that was behind the sump so no access! A lump hammer and chisel finally got it moving...)
I can see that at least one - amazingly right where the inspection plate is(!) - of the 'teeth' of the flywheel reluctor ring is a bit bent. I can also see the crankshalft sensor and it also looks a bit bent too so I think it's been hitting the bent tooth when it warms up. It looks VERY close to the non-bent teeth so I am going to pop the sensor out and check it as well.
I think with a bit of luck I can tap the reluctor back on to shape with a tiny toffee hammer, hopefully unbend the sensor, and fingers crossed that's the problem! Somehow I must have inadvertantly bent the tooth when fitting the engine back togther maybe?
I will get some pictures of before and after and report back my success (or failure) in a while.... wish me luck!
HI Mod Team.. just a quick note that Forefox is starting to report this site's SSL cert is not correct. MIght be worth checking as google has set some SSL suppliers as untrusted (we had the problem at work!).
Adam
If it ever stops raining I'll get the access panel off and hopefully it will be a loose bolt.
Thanks for the advice - was thinking maybe that would be easier - I am expert in engine removal now after all! LOL
These cars are dfintiely alive and rather grumpy - you give them something new and shiny and they throw a hissy fit and bite you in the ass!
OK so typically it's been raining all day so far! I have a few questions before I check stuff...
There isn't a lot inside that bellhousing apart from the flex plate / flywheel etc, so I am guessing IF the noise is in there it can only be loose bolts / cracked flex plate (although I only replaced that when I had the engine out as it had cracks all over the original!).......
Also if I do need to replace the flexplate (again) can I do it by just somehow undoing the bellhousing from the engine and sliding the gearbox backwards? Or do people think as I want to change the filter etc on the gearbox, and it's sump bolts are a bit stuck, I'd be better getting the gearbox out? Assuming I can get it out without removing the engine?
Sorry I sound a total noob!
OK did a bit more digging. He definitely makes NO noise when cold....
Then when warm THIS happens (better sound recording as no wind today!).
The sound is from low down so I whacked up the suspension and climbed underneath with my long screwdriver as a stethescope.... the noise was MUCH louder when I touched the screwdriver to the bellhousing - so I unscrewed the little plate on the bottom and saw this:
The marks around the edge of the torque converter look pretty new to me... I don't remember seeing them before (although I didn't specififcally look when I had the engine out)....
Does anyone have any ideas? Plus why it only happens when it's warm? It's really odd. I haven't had the front plate off the bellhousing yet so maybe I should have a check in there as I did fit a new drive plate - coudl it be a loose bolt that only shows when warm?
Ah ok I knwo that thing - I'll check tomorrow but pretty sure it's not that clicking....... it's a bit lower down than that I think.
gordonjcp wrote:
Is that from around the plenum/air filter side of the engine? Could be the canister purge valve which clacks open and shut with a noise disturbingly like a slipped liner once the engine warms up...
Funnily enough it is louder on that side...... from the top at least. Underneath you can't tell which side. Where is this purge valve? I'll have a check. (You'd think I'd know this after taking the engine out but alas no! LOL)
Well I went outside in between the rain and tried to get a capture of the noise. He's deifnitely quiet as a mouse when cold - then after about 10 minutes diling its sounds like this:
You can hear it up top but better underneath. It seems worse if the engine is stuttering slightly when the revs are low (which they are at present when on LPG - need to do those filters still!) - raise the revs a bit and it goes away!
If there's too much wind noise in the recording I'll try and do another tomorrow after work.
Thanks guys - I'll see if i can tell roughly where it's coming from and report back!
10-40 as I always do - this time wasn't Magnatec, but then the clack was there before the oil change - hence doing it.....
Well I do wonder if these bloody trucks are alive (and extremely grumpy!!)....
A week or so on from treating him to a set of nice blue carpets and..... he's developed a clack! It's not there when he's started but as soon as he warms up there it is. Like a light metalic clacking. Put the revs up very slightly and it dissapears! I did an oil change as I hadn't done it since I had the engine out and put it back in with new seals etc.... so I thought maybe it needed that - no difference!
Just as I started to really enjoy driving him with the new seats and carpets he fights me again!
Anyone have anyt ideas? Woudl it help if I uploaded a sound byte of it?
Thanks
Picked up a set of lovely blue carpets for £100..... Also a boot liner for £10 (just needs a bit of matching carpet stuck to it i think now) - Goodness knows why these photos won't go the right way up!!
As I've had the engine completely out when I did the core plugs and flex plate, I cleaned all the connectors before refitting - so thinking about it this probably won't help with anything.
Thanks guys
I was looking about on Google for something and suddeny came upon this from another site:
The Gems engine mod on alty is a must, run a thick cable from alt to battery direct and three things happen.
1 Brighter lights
2 You automatically double up your starter cable, in effect the starter turns alot quicker
3 Shorter cable = less voltage drop to battery keeping it in its ideal charge state
So I guess the question is are there any negative effects? If not then I am off to the motor factors soon to buy a decent bit of red battery cable and some ends!
LOL - good point! It's been hammering it down too in Petts Wood this morning - now we have high wind and sunshine!
Thanks - Quick (probably stupid) question.... is there pressure in the pipes when the car isn't running?