Will do - it's only just become GEMS compatible. It gets regular updates, so once I've sent my feedback to the maker he can look at expanding it like he's done for the MG Rover cars.

Thanks - something else to order!

I will get this bloody engine in soon!

Hi All,

I have had the Pscan.uk diagnostic/programing unit since it's early days, and it's been really helpful sorting things on my MGTF and my MGZS....

Some time ago I asked the maker about getting it to be compatible with the GEMS Range Rover as GEMS is so close to MEMS, and both were compatible with the T4 units at Rover.... well he has just released the initial Firmware upgrade to get this started:

Reads both OBD2 error codes and Landrover proprietary codes.

Reset error codes.

The live data is the same as data as that exposed to an OBD2 tool as this appears to be what a factory tool does.

Learning of EMS code from 10AS (tested) and BECM (untested).
Specifically this puts the GEMS ECU into a mode such that after a power cycle it will learn the next 10AS / BECM code that it sees, it is not immediately learned.

Testing of immobiliser status.
This appears to be of use only on the first power cycle that an EMS is learned following the above EMS learning mode is engaged.
Once an EMS code is learned and then power cycled again the status is not useful.

Resetting of adaptations is not yet implemented.

Output actuation is not yet implemented.

So it looks like another really useful (and not costly) diagnostic tool has arrived for us here too!

Link to their support forum on www.the-t-bar.com (MGF/TF forum who offered the space when the other forum he used vanished!)👍

https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/pscan-uk-diagnostic-tool

I'll get a new Crankshaft Position Sensor then.... probably best.

Any idea about the knock sensor? There seems to be one both sides?

OK, well after sorting the snapped exhaust manifold both (other thread about Helicoils) I managed to heave the replacement engine in to place yesterday.... All went well after a lot of pushing and shoving (and swearing at the engine for not staying straight on the lift as i used my 'tipping' device to try and align the bell-housing up!).
By the time it was getting dark I was reasonably happy that at least it was sat on its mountings and bolted up except...... I'd managed to mangle up one of the knock sensors on the passenger side - literally bashed the plastic part of the sensor off! This bloody engine does not want to go in. Looking at this tiny sensor it seems to be REALLY expensive for some reason - anyone know an alternative source? I can find a second hand one on eBay for £25?
Also the Crankshaft Position Sensor - the one from the spare car is the older type - but the one on mine is newer but got bent by the reluctor ring some time back - I bent it straight again but wondered if i can either use the old type (with a wiring adapter I can make up) or do I need a new one do we think?
Thanks again as always.

Kit worked a treat - thread is now restored. :-)

dhallworth wrote:

Rather then helicoiling a manifold bolt, it might be worth having a look for a machine shop that could remove the bolt via spark eroding. I did that with a cylinder head on an old Discovery I owned, worked a treat and there's no chance of you drilling it slightly off centre or not square.

David.

The head is still on the engine unfortunately... and I really don't want to dismantle this engine at all if I can at all help it. Great idea though for those with the engine in bits - never thought of that at all.

Thanks guys. I bought new stainless Allen Key type bolts of the original size, so need the correct thread. Guess I'll send this kit back and get a 3/8" 16 version.

Another sunny weekend wasted.... Sigh.

Hmmmm....

I got my 'M8 * 1.25' thread repair kit from Amazon. I measured the threads and they were pretty much 8 peaks in 10mm so I was fairly happy this would be right.

However it arrives this morning and I measured up a bolt to the tap they supply with the kit and the threads do not 100% line up. Although is that because the tap is bigger to get the repair thread in? Anyway, I thought that's OK I'll try to wind the bolt in to one of the repair coils - and it wont even go in..... so my worry is the kit is wrong. The drill they supply has '8,3 HSS' on it and the tap says 'STI8X1.25 HSS' - surely the tap needs to be bigger than the repair it is supposed to be making? Sorry if I sound dim but now I am confused!

Once again help appreciated!

EDIT: Just found this on another forum: 'for the 4.0L the diameter is 3/8, thread is 16, length I believe is 1.25 inches... '

Thanks all. Been a bit sick over weekend so I'll check into it this week and hopefully this weekend do it.

Hi All,

So my replacement engine is out of the donor car and cleaned. I snapped one of the exhaust manifold bolts and have had no luck removing it even with a stud extractor, so I'm going to drill it out and helicoil it. My question is what size do I need? I'm pretty sure they are 8mm but what thread pitch?

Thanks as always.... He's almost back together!

Ok found out that apparently VW T5 wheels fit? 5*120 with almost same offset. Seen a set of these:

They're local and cheap..... Opinions?

Brill thanks!

Thanks - What is the PCD by the way? That way I can also see if other manufacturers (maybe less desirable) ones might fit?

OK it's come to the time I have got off almost all i want from the spare car - and I need to swap the alloys out for something cheap so it can still roll. I have one spare to use, just need to either find 3 more or my other option is what other wheels fit a P38? It doesn't matter about size as long as the PCD/Fit will allow it to roll on to a flat bed!

Hope someone can advise what I could potentially check the Bay of E for?

Thanks,
Adam

Oh never thought of that!

Ah OK - well once I've finished if there are any plugs people need I can cut them off with some wire attached. I'll strip the car of wire anyhow as it's always handy to have different gauges of 12v wiring to hand.

gordonjcp wrote:

Just as a matter of interest, what's the engine in your donor car and what are you planning on doing with the engine bay iring loom? ;-)

Both 4.6 GEMS - so no loom changes needed - old loom will be used for the odd connector no doubt as they are bound to fall to bits or need re-soldering LOL

Hopefully I can drill it out once engine is out and I have more space. I can do it while doing the core plugs etc.

BUGGER!!!! Managed to snap an exhaust manifold bolt! I seemed a bit tight so I put loads of release fluid on it and left it till last - slight turn and SNAP!

I am guessing I can drill and tap it when the engine is out?

Got most of the rest of the bits off the engine ready for removal - plus jet washed it all as it is really oily as the valley gasket has leaks at the rubber seals..... Theoretically just the drivers manifold (some bolts or at the flange for now) and the bell-housing/Flywheel bolts to do now.