The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
468 posts
Sep 13 2016
12 February 2018 - 22:12

Since i've had the rangey, i've always been unimpressed by the brakes. I asked on here about it and stripped and greased up all four calipers but it was still rubbish. They did ofcourse work, and if you stood on the pedal HARD it stopped on a dime, but the pedal effort always felt too high for the complexity of the braking system. I had assumed it was simply down to my experience with much newer cars, which tend to have a lot more powerful brakes than stuff from the 90's.

So fast forward a bit, my rear calipers been sticking on and off for a few months. It was winter and the weather is poop, so i've been ignoring it, and it "fixed itself" a few times and wasnt a huge issue. You could drive hundreds of miles and the disk would get hot, but not smoking or completely siezed on level. At the weekend i finally fitted a new caliper, bled up that corner and took it out for a test...

And the first thing i noticed was a MASSIVE reduction in pedal effort, the brakes actually felt good.

Given the rear brakes do so little i cant see how fixing that one caliper can have made a difference, so why has it changed so much?!

12 February 2018 - 22:17

Gave the rangey some TLC at the weekend, and one of the jobs was fixing the rear wiper as it was seized.

Luckily it all came apart, cleaned up and greased the shaft and reassembled and it now works perfectly. Treated it to a new blade while i was there.

However the rear wash doesnt work. Theres not a peep when i press the button, so i guess its a pump issue?

Is there a common fault, or do i just need to get in about it and do some testing to see if its the pump itself or something else?

13 February 2018 - 08:33

cool i will see what i find. I guess the gunge jams up the non-return valves, It might be worth trying to flush the line thru with the valves removed to get rid of all the debris?

I also wonder if the tank itself has a leak, as i've poured 5 litres into it then found it bring on the "low screenwash" warning having not really used it all that much!

13 February 2018 - 08:42

The opposite caliper is pretty new (its still shiney silver) and must have been replaced by the previous owner shortly before i bought it. Clearly he should have done both, but has presumably done the bare minimum to get it working again. I would normally have replaced the pair, but since it was already done i just did the one.

When i got it i fully bled the system using the instructions online, as the pedal was in the floor and the accumulator was burst. This time (since it was only one rear caliper) i simply switched the ignition on, got an assistant to press the brake pedal, and opened the rear nipple for 5 seconds and that was it.

I'm sure i could go round the rest of the car, and give it new disks and pads etc etc, but its now working better than it ever has, the pads are all fine, and the disks are pretty new looking with minimal lip. And the money would be better spent fixing other bits like the front balljoints!

I was just intriqued why fixing one caliper has transformed the brakes to such an extent.

17 February 2018 - 09:09

the brrr/clicking noise is probably the ABS firing up because it thinks a wheel has locked.

I've had this before on another car and it was due to a cracked reluctor ring on the CV that the ABS sensor reads. The sensors produce a voltage spike as each "tooth" passes the sensor, and at low speeds this voltage gets smaller. If the ring is damaged or corroded, or the sensor air gap isnt right, the signal can get so small at low speeds that the ECU can no longer detect the pulses and thinks the wheel has locked, and so fires up the ABS trying to fix it.

On that car, it was possible to use the diagnostic computer to view the individual wheel speed sensors, and then driving along very slowly at like 5mph you could see one wheel wasnt reading properly, but if you sped up even to 10mph, they all started reading correctly. When i took it apart the reluctor ring on the CV had cracked due to rust. You could buy replacement rings for that model, but i had a spare CV so just swapped the whole thing out and that was it fixed.

20 February 2018 - 21:12

If theres no pressure in the tank then i imagine the nanocom "raise" button wont do anything...

Mine seems to lose pressure in the tank when parked for a while. The bags themselves are fine, and dont deflate by themselvs, but sometimes it will do the EAS dance and self level itself right down, or perhaps you'll load a lot of weight into it, and after starting it up it does take a while to raise itself, when really the tank should be full and it should lift immediately. If its only been sitting for a few hours, it will usually lift straight away.

I've never really investigated too closely.

20 February 2018 - 21:17

As a random aside, a few weeks back i was towing a trailer home in the snow, and randomly got an EAS Fault out the blue shortly after leaving the mother in laws. First time its ever had a fault, and i was expecting the worst, bumpstops etc while towing wasnt going to be pleasant...

However all it did was light up the four lights on the height button... No "35mph" warning or deflate to the bump stops, it just sat where it was. I drove a short distance to find a safe place to stop and got nanocom out (luckily it was in the glovebox), it said front right height sensor had some issue. Reset the code and everything returned to normal and its not come back.

04 March 2018 - 16:26

when i press the rear wash theres no noise at all, If it was a blockage i'd expect to hear the whirring pump? The front wash pump is clearly audiable.

The front wash pump is also pretty pathetic, so i might swap that out as well, it barely piddles out about 3" up the screen.

03 March 2018 - 19:29

Anyone got a spare washer pump and can measure the diameter of the spigot that goes into the side of the washer tank?


04 March 2018 - 14:03

thanks, thats perfect :)

I've got what i presume is a duff rear pump, and i've also got a washer pump or three from various cars i've broken, just trying to figure out if they'll work before getting in about it.

04 March 2018 - 19:02

i just removed mine and blanked off the manifold outlet.

04 March 2018 - 20:32

i doubt it would cause an airlock tbh, the large bore pipe from the manifold to the radiator is right next to it, and the radiator has its own vent line back to the tank.

15 March 2018 - 10:09

Well the old bus went for its MOT the other day and failed:


Not entirely surprised, as the front balljoints are knackered. Amusingly, they only picked up one, and it wasnt the one that i'd identified myself. So i've ordered a set of balljoints and a press kit to sort those.

Number plate is easy enough to fix, although the holders are very yellowed. I believe its just a 501 wedge bulb?

Which leads us to emissions...

Last year it was an absolute nightmare getting it thru the emissions test. LPG was broken so it was being tested on petrol, meaning the harsh CAT test with its 0.3% CO limit was being applied. It had a faulty MAF and a missfire (which is why it had been laid up for so long) but eventually i replaced the MAF, Both lambdas, all 8 injectors, spark plugs and a few other bits, and finally got it running nicely, and it passed the full CAT test on petrol.

I've since fixed the LPG system by replacing the injectors and re-calibrating, and for the most part it runs and drives perfectly well on LPG. However it failed the emissions test on LPG this time round, managing 3.87% CO against a limit of 3.5%... Waay over what it managed last year on petrol.

I dont understand why the CO is so high. Its running closed loop, so why is the lambdas/ECU allowing it to end up so rich?!

15 March 2018 - 10:35

I've tried a few round here and this one is pretty good. the others always pluck bullshit fails out their arse and are generally not very friendly. One failed me for not having a Cat fitted on my Audi, i literally stood there like WTF, then pointed at the Cat in the engine bay and said "whats that then?".

Sure, he missed the balljoint, but its very hard to see (the boot has split around the wire retainer on the inside) and as people who've worked on these will know, the balljoints are particularly difficult to feel play in compared with a normal car.

Why would i want my failure list to get any longer anyway? :P

16 March 2018 - 13:08

Yeh the guys know i fix everything myself.

I've not had a chance to hook it up, and i'm away this weekend, but next week i'll get nanocom out and see if there are any faults first off, and also if the lambdas are switching as expected.

There was no lambda figure on the sheet, just HC and CO, and it had "non-CAT test" across the top. The limits were also the 3.5% rather than the 0.3% it would have got on petrol so i'm pretty sure the machine was properly setup for LPG.

07 April 2018 - 18:10

Yeh i figured out the jacking the body earlier, wound the C clamp up as much as i dared with a 3ft breaker bar, but its not shifting. Not tried shocking it yet though.

07 April 2018 - 19:30

Given up for the night.

This is where we are on both sides:

enter image description here

Tightened it as much as we dared, the C clamp is actually deforming in the pic its so tight.

Bashed lumps out of it with the ball pein and its not moved at all...


07 April 2018 - 14:30

So the car is being awkward as usual.

Started the front axle balljoints this morning and its fought us the whole way. getting the hubs off took what felt like hours of beating, one oil seal is ruined, and i smashed both CV boots so those are also wrecked.

Then started on trying to break the tapers free on the balljoints... The top ones came free easily enough but the bottom one wouldnt shift. I've ended up grinding the balljoint cone off, then taking the knuckle to the bench and smashing it out with a lump hammer.

So finally we're at the worst bit of the whole thing, pressing the balljoints out. I ordered a big G Clamp style balljoint press and it fits well enough, but i cannot get the balljoints to shift. I've tightened it to the point the spanner jaws are spreading and slipping off the hex and theres been no movement at all. I cant get a socket on because the clamp is hard against the arch liner.

Anyone got any pointers to get the balljoints moving? Theres a few guides floating around that seem to cover reinstalling them, but the removal is glossed over...

07 April 2018 - 22:04

The bottom adaptor is too big, however the balljoint sticks thru by about 3mm so pretty sure the adaptor is pushing against the balljoint, not the knuckle. I was hoping to at least get it started moving, then swap it out for a socket or something to pull it the rest of the way thru.

Unfortunately my press kit doesnt have as many adaptors as the one pictured.

08 April 2018 - 17:30

Cheers for the help guys. Back at it this morning and got them out. Tightened the thing even more and smashed at it with a big ball pein and it finally let go. The passenger side let go with a bang too!


The tools definately bent now though, refitting the bushes was fun with the bent tool:


Didnt start out like that, but the end walked across the cup due to the bend and it all ended up cocked over. However all four went in without issue.

I then realised i ordered 4 big nuts for the balljoints, rather than two big and two small, so i now need to get those before i can finish installing the knuckle.

Also need to get axle oil seals, new bolts to attach the hubs (existing ones were missmatching and ended up pretty smashed up), new CV boots, a new ABS sensor (one ended up getting smashed out!) and i appear to have lost a caliper bolt, so i might just replace the four of those as well.

Not finished, but the backs broken, and once the bits arrive its probably only an hour in the evening to finish it off. Slightly annoying the cars now stuck in the middle of the driveway though! I should have parked it further forwards!