Back in may i had an issue with the crank sensor. The engine would idle fine, but wouldnt rev at all, you could coax it upto 1500rpm, and any more it would start popping and farting. Got a new crank sensor, fitted it, problem solved.
The old thread is here:
Fast forward 6 months, its just done the same thing. Pulled onto the local dual carriageway, gave it full beans upto 70mph, and when i lifted and settled to a cruise it started bucking and the RPM needle dropped to 0. It flicked back up to normal RPM a few times and power returned, then dropped out again etc. Managed to pull off the road and stopped in a layby. As before, it idled perfectly. This time any throttle input at all would cause it to start spluttering popping and belching smoke. Just like last time, but at a lower RPM.
I managed to drive it home at 5mph by just letting it idle along on the torque converter.
So my first thaught was simply "these aftermarket sensors are fkn shit, i should just go buy a genuine landrover one..."
However when digging that old thread out i realised something. Both this time and the previous time, the thing has failed immediately after a full throttle high RPM blast up the same duallie. The previous time it died a bit further down the road right enough, after i'd turned off the duallie and was back on the local road. Which got me thinking, could high RPM's somehow be related? I mean clearly its not the first time in 6 months its been at max RPM, it gets full beans a reasonable amount, but it certainly got me wondering!
Soo, the P38 has been laid up for a bit with a knackered exhaust. Finally got it sorted last week, and took it to work last Wednesday. All good, till i went to go home, and it did a repeat of the "harry potter incident". (Shortly after buying the P38 we drove it to the harry potter thing in Watford (from scotland), and after spending many hours there and leaving the place at 10pm, the bloody thing wouldnt unlock, i didnt have a clue what was going on (nor had the EKA code) and left the wife slightly pissed off!)
I avoid using the remote, because the copy battery door is a very loose fit, and often turns a bit while in my pocket, resulting in the key code being reset. Furthermore, the car has the crappy old battery-flattener reciever, which i was using for a while with the ariel unplugged and eventually just unplugged the whole thing to save any hassle. As a secondary point i would really like a working second key/remote, has anyone got to the bottom of that yet?
However in the two years i've had it, it has occasionally done this unresponsive thing and its usually fixed simply by unlocking and relocking it, and sure enough on wednesday that did infact work, albeit after a few goes. Used it on saturday with no problems. Today however it was booked into the exhaust place again for some rectification work (one tiny silencer is insufficient! :P) and same thing happened again. Except this time, no amount of turning the key was making any difference. I pulled the battery, reconnected, tried key again, nothing, tried EKA, nothing.
After much pissing around i took the door card off, and unplugged the lock, got the meter and belled out the wires. From what i could see everything worked. The only question mark was the "key turned" switch didnt work first time i tried, but then started working immediately after. Maybe a bad connection on the meter leads, not 100% sure. I plugged it all back in, reconnected the battery, and unlocked the door, and normal operation was resumed.
Clearly, i need to fix this properly!
Theres much chat about refurb latches from Marty, but his website suggests those are no longer available. Theres also some recent chat about MGTF parts, but i'm not actually clear on what needs done. Hopefully someone can tell me what the best approach is...
If i buy a RH LHD MGTF latch, i presume it fits the P38 door, but does not have the third microswitch that the P38 requires? Can this microswitch be sourced easily? Anyone have a part number for a suitable microswitch? Or am i better just fitting new switches to the P38 latch? The idea of getting a whole new shiney latch certainly appeals.
I would also like to sort the door handle. The handle itself is loose, and has the usual sticking stuff going on, so i guess i will pull it apart and try and sort all that out at the same time.
Lastly, can anyone think of any other issue that might be at play here?
Can anyone with a Nanocom or similar tell me what these engines display normally for their long term and short term fuel trim?
Can anyone also suggest what the device means by a "positive" trim?
In my mind, a positive trim = Adding fuel, but i'm not convinced thats correct given i've fitted slightly larger injectors yet the trim is jammed at 38.75 and the sensors are stuck around 1v.
Long term trim was showing at -154, which i thaught was way out of whack, so i reset the adaptions. But then it went to -160... surely reset should be 0?!
As per the other thread, i've various running issues that i'm trying to resolve. If i'm going to replace parts, i tend to buy new, as then i know i can rule it out. However the MAF's are ludicrous money, so i've got a used one.
So i'm wondering if i can send my MAF to someone on here with a GEMS car that actually works, and swap it in and see if the MAF is actually working properly. That way i can rule it out as a possible issue!
First of all some background. When i bought the P38, it came off ebay, with one listed fault, a bad crank sensor. Apparently the engine would run for about 15mins, then die. The bloke told me the rear seal was leaking and that had contaminated the sensor. Sounded fishy but the cutting-out-when-warm i'd seen before with crank sensors, so i figured it probably just needed a new one.
When i got the truck home, i put a new crank sensor in it, but discovered the one i took out really wasnt all that old. Hmmmm!
So, take the P38 in for its MOT today, Drove it up and down the dual carridgeway probably 6 or 7 miles to make sure it was all running fine, then dropped it in for its test. Went back to collect it and the boy tells me he couldnt test it as it wouldnt run, kept cutting out. Great.
So i drove it home, just. Last half mile it was acting very strangely, missing and cutting out and not wanting to idle, before finally stopping right outside the house. I managed to coax it onto the drive, and sat there pondering what was going on. Tried ot start it a few times and it would start, rev up a bit then you could hear the engine had simply stopped firing. Adding more throttle would sometimes help it pickup but it would fart about for a few seconds then die.
First thing i did, somewhat randomly, was pop the petrol cap off, to be greeted with a loud and pronounced hiss. Hmm, vacuum in the tank perhaps? I started it, and it fired up perfectly and dropped to a nice idle, revved fine, ran fine, all seemed fine. OK i thaught, somethings wrong with the tank breather. But lets be sure, i'll take it for a drive and see if i can repeat the same fault.
Drove to the petrol station, no dramas, removed cap and there was a small hiss. Put a tenner in and drove home. About a quarter mile away this time, it just dies. I coast into a side road and try to restart, but nope it starts revs abit, pops farts and cuts out. OK i thaught if its a fuel delivery issue, i'll see if it'll switch over onto gas. Started it, revved it a bit and hit the gas button. Once gas came on it suddenly sounded much nicer, revved up nicely, but it was short lived, as a few moments later it starts missing on gas as well before stalling.
Scratching my head and wondering how i'm going to get it home, i sat about a bit, tried it a few times, then after some pondering, unplugged the MAF... It fired right up. Waited a moment to see if it was shortlived, but nope, kept ticking over. But hmm! its done exactly this before with the petrol cap.... So set off home and it drove home just fine. Much like the trip to the petrol station, it drove with no issues and all worked perfectly.
Back at the house i ran it on the drive for 10 minutes with no issues.
Sooo, whats going on? MAF failure? Fuel tank cap a red herring?
Do the electric seats have height adjustment?
I feel i'm sitting too high, I've tried to adjust the seats but pushing the lever down seems to tip the seat base rather than actually lowering it. Maybe i'm doing something wrong!
The bit thats really puzzling me is i'm sure it was fine until the missus drove it and spent about 5 minute pissing about with the seat control and now it feels jacked up! I need to figure out the memory functions so i can store my position!
I bought myself a remote filter from Marty and decided to install it today. I also have a new door latch, which i havent fitted yet due to a missing connector that i'm waiting on coming.
So i tried fitting the filter today and havent had much luck. The remote isnt currently paired, and the RF module was disconnected to stop the usual battery drain issues. I plugged the new box in and reconnected the receiver, and tried to pair the key using the "turn it in the lock and press buttons" approach. It didnt seem to work.
So i figured i would disconnect the new filter, and just connect the receiver in its normal way and try pairing. That also didnt seem to work.
I dug out the nanocom, and opened up the RF menu, and it stated "The BECM has not received a valid radio code". I cleared it and tried pressing the buttons to see if it would change, but it just continued saying the same thing. I dont know if its supposed to update and show a code etc though.
Any idea whats going on? Theres a possibility that the remote pairing isnt working due to the dodgy door lock, it was locking and unlocking mostly fine when i tried, but the latch is iffy and intermittent so maybe thats affecting things, but the BECM saying it hasnt recieved a radio code seems strange?
Anyone got any ideas? Come back to the car after a day out in Watford and it wouldn't fire the central locking
Don't have a working remote
Opened the door and alarm went off.
Now it says engine disabled.
Any ideas? I have a nanocom but can't seem to display the alarm info. It says unable to connect.
Over the past few days, i've seen some electrical weirdness with the P38.
Since i've had it, the dash often beeps "Alternator Fault" when you turn the ignition on, but otherwise seems to work fine.
The other day the wife had the rear door open putting the wee man in his seat, and i'd put the ignition on while waiting (not started the engine) and i heard a relay clicking somewhere in the dash. When i looked at the screen, the "Door Open Left Rear" was flickering on and off in time with the relay, the battery warning light was also flashing on and off. When she shut the door, it stopped.
Its done the same thing a few times when doors are open, but the other day while driving along, i'm sure i heard the same relay clicking a couple of times while driving. There was nothing obvious on the dash, no beeps or warning lights, just the clicking of a relay.
Swapping the battery with a good spare one at the weekend and was looking at the proper mess of wiring going to the battery. The new battery (which is near brand new and came in a car i was breaking for parts) annoyingly had the terminals the other way round, so i had lots of fiddling to do. I still need to properly re-make the ground wire and tidy up the live.
Cleaned up some old crimps from a spotlight kit that had been cut off at some point. Was left with the power and ground for the LPG kit and a small harness with two fuses.
While there i found two relay modules clipped to the side of the inner wing. One looks like your typical automotive relay. the other is bright yellow and says LANDROVER Voltage Sensitive switch. Its connected to a small harness which goes to the battery + and has two fuses, a 20A and a 15A. The output from the relay disappears off into the foam behind the ABS pump.
Any idea what it could be? I might try to get a small fuse box and mount it on the side rather than the mess thats there just now. But that relay makes the whole area really untidy.
So the P38 has an LPG kit on it. Its all quite old, and i'm not convinced its working properly. The vapouriser appears to be leaking coolant as well.
It has a BiGas SGIS ECU and the Vapouriser is an RI21 DOUBLE, and after some previous discussions on here when i got the car, i swapped the bigas injectors (which werent working properly) out for some Valtek Type-30's. Used the bigas software and managed to calibrate things and get it all mostly working. Its now perfectly drivable on LPG, and if you never switched to petrol you'd probably never have an issue.
So, the issues.
Recently i had a new exhaust installed, and afterwards was surprised that the car felt a lot snappier and more responsive. However it transpired it wasnt the exhaust at all. The car had simply run out of LPG, and was running on petrol. Having done 20-30miles on petrol before refilling the LPG tank, i realised that once on LPG it went back to how it was before.
Second issue, is that at WOT, the car seems to switch to petrol. It doesnt usually beep (though occasionally it does and switches the gas off), the petrol light simply starts flashing, which i believe means the LPG ECU has decided it cant meet the petrol demand, and switches back to petrol. This switch is also REALLY rough, especially if you lift a bit and it decides to switch back to LPG, you get a big jolt as the fuelling goes to shit in the transition. I dont see why 8 LPG injectors should be unable to meet the demand, given the woeful power output of these engines... The vapouriser is apparently rated to 375hp so that shouldnt have a problem either...
Yesterday, while driving on the motorway, i was sitting at 70 climbing a very slight hill, when the LPG ran out. First thing i realised was it felt like someone had opened the throttle about 30% more, the car immediately picked up and started accellerating without my foot moving on the throttle. As i thaught "WTF?" the LPG switch started beeping to say the gas had run out. That suggests to me that the LPG mixture was wrong, but also makes me wonder why, if the ECU could see the pressure dropping, why wasnt it compensating by opening the injectors more...
Clearly i need to sort the vaporiser leak, either by rebuilding the BiGas unit, or fitting something better. Perhaps the vapouriser is faulty or clogged up or something? I'm also wondering if the ECU itself is just too old and crappy and needs updated?
What are folks thoughts.... I often hear people saying the car should run just as well on LPG as it does on petrol, but thats clearly not the situation here!
Folks, i'm a bit stumped with getting the P38 to accept my radio code.
The radios been showing code in for weeks since i had the battery off. Last week i tried to input the code, but I had misrememberd the code and entered it incorrectly. The radio then ended up stuck with the incorrect code on the screen. Tried everything and it wouldnt clear, so eventually read somewhere that removing fuse 1 and reinserting would clear the code. Did that and it changed to ----, which the internet suggests is wait mode. I faffed about a bit pressing buttons (the internet says press band and man together, which didnt seem to work, but eventually, it popped up CODEIN again. So i punched in what i thaught was the right code, and again, it was incorrect, and the wrong code was stuck on the screen again.
So i drove home got the right code, and yesterday morning i tried to reset it again. Pulled fuse 1, reinserted and now its back showing ----. Tried everything, no joy, just stuck on ----. Did 80odd miles yesterday in it, easily an hour and a half or more, with it sat showing ---- the whole time. Got in this morning, still showing ---- and still wont change back to CodeIn.
Any ideas? Driving it an hour to the mother in laws tomorrow and dont really fancy zero music the whole way!
Gave the rangey some TLC at the weekend, and one of the jobs was fixing the rear wiper as it was seized.
Luckily it all came apart, cleaned up and greased the shaft and reassembled and it now works perfectly. Treated it to a new blade while i was there.
However the rear wash doesnt work. Theres not a peep when i press the button, so i guess its a pump issue?
Is there a common fault, or do i just need to get in about it and do some testing to see if its the pump itself or something else?
Anyone got a spare washer pump and can measure the diameter of the spigot that goes into the side of the washer tank?
Arrived home earlier and noticed the interior lights were on in the rangey.
Everything looked shut, so i got the key and locked it, and the dash booped and said "tailgate open".
Sure enough, the tailgate was shut, but not actually latched. Gave it a slam and locked it again and it happily locked and the lights went out.
Turns out the wife opened it at lunch time and got the pram out the back, mustnt have closed it properly.
But its left me wondering, shouldnt the interior lighting time out after 10minutes or so, so as not to drain the battery if a doors left open?!
Just signed up after chris pointed me in this direction.
Need to get some pics of the new bus, only got this one for now:
I figure its better making a new thread about this, rather than adding to the other post, as i'm fairly sure its a new/seperate issue...
As per this thread:
The car had weird fuelling issues before its MOT. It failed the test with massively high CO, then after being parked for a few weeks, would barely run at all with massive missfiring and belching out black smoke. Plugs were all caked black with soot when i removed them. There was a fault code which pointed to the MAF, so i got one from ebay, fitted it along with some new plugs and it passed the MOT just fine with perfect CO readings.
Fast forward to last night. Its not been used since it passed the MOT as it wasnt taxed, but i taxed it yesterday and took it out for a run to get pizza. Drove perfectly well all the way there and all the way home. It wasnt hugely far, maybe 4 or 5miles but enough to get it fully warmed up etc. Even gave it a full throttle blast upto 60mph and it was all fine. Until i turned into my street, when all of a sudden it wouldnt rev. Idled fine as did very light throttle, so i trundled into the drive and parked up.
Some cursory checking last night showed it was exactly the same on both petrol and LPG, and missfired both under load and while revving in neutral, at the same point on the revs. It would rev upto about 1500rpm, any more and it starts acting up. I tried it with the MAF unplugged, exactly the same. MAF readings also looked sensible enough. Lambdas also looked sane. I reset adaptions and no change. Checked CTS and it read fine.
Left it overnight, went out this afternoon and fired it up from cold, problem gone. reset adaptions and put everything back together and took it out for another drive. Sure enough, after about 10minutes, same shit. Managed to drive it home with light throttle. I dont think its load related specifically, but obviously being an automatic the rpms naturally want to climb up past 1500rpm and thus it starts spluttering.
I made a short video, i thaught the audio would have been much more audiable but its not that great annoyingly. Hopefully if you crank the volume right up you can hear it. However you can see me blip the throttle a few times at the start and it revs cleanly, then slowly adding throttle up to 1500rpm and you hear it start its weirdness, then i really opened the throttle and it started popping and banging.
for the third time, the car has popped a fault code for the front left height sensor, so i've gone to order a new one.
Seems that for early cars like mine, they sell a "Kit" which contains a new bracket, some wiring and bolts and things.
The kit is obviously handed, because the bracket is side specific, however what i'm wondering, is are the sensors used the normal 97-> sensors or are they specific to the conversion kit?
Urgh typical. Few months back I changed all the ball joints on the front end, and also replaced the axle oil seals and CV joints.
While investigating my shit brakes, I found this:
Looks like the axle oil seal on that side has failed pretty badly... Which makes me concerned as they were genuine seals, not cheap shite. Either I've somehow installed it incorrectly or theres something going on with the ball joint adjustment collet thingy that's ruined the new seal rapidly.
The HP PAS line from the pump to the box has a weep at the crimped joint, its also very rusty. Clearly i should be looking to replace it.
When looking on LRCat:
It suggests ANR3855 for my early car.
However ANR3855 is dealer only and discontinued.
There are two other part numbers listed, for later chassis numbers, QEP104660 and QEP105440.
So i guess my question is, how similar are these later hoses, and will i be able to use one on my early car?
I imagine the box end is the same, the steering box didnt change AFAIK. I also wonder about the interim part... the 105440 part is for '99 onwards cars, which is presumably thor and potentially had potentially different PAS pump placement, but the 104660 part appears to be GEMS age and went from '97 to '98
Was there a GEMS steering pump change around there that means the 104660 hose wont fit my older pump?