Urgh typical. Few months back I changed all the ball joints on the front end, and also replaced the axle oil seals and CV joints.
While investigating my shit brakes, I found this:
Looks like the axle oil seal on that side has failed pretty badly... Which makes me concerned as they were genuine seals, not cheap shite. Either I've somehow installed it incorrectly or theres something going on with the ball joint adjustment collet thingy that's ruined the new seal rapidly.
So the car is being awkward as usual.
Started the front axle balljoints this morning and its fought us the whole way. getting the hubs off took what felt like hours of beating, one oil seal is ruined, and i smashed both CV boots so those are also wrecked.
Then started on trying to break the tapers free on the balljoints... The top ones came free easily enough but the bottom one wouldnt shift. I've ended up grinding the balljoint cone off, then taking the knuckle to the bench and smashing it out with a lump hammer.
So finally we're at the worst bit of the whole thing, pressing the balljoints out. I ordered a big G Clamp style balljoint press and it fits well enough, but i cannot get the balljoints to shift. I've tightened it to the point the spanner jaws are spreading and slipping off the hex and theres been no movement at all. I cant get a socket on because the clamp is hard against the arch liner.
Anyone got any pointers to get the balljoints moving? Theres a few guides floating around that seem to cover reinstalling them, but the removal is glossed over...
The HP PAS line from the pump to the box has a weep at the crimped joint, its also very rusty. Clearly i should be looking to replace it.
When looking on LRCat:
It suggests ANR3855 for my early car.
However ANR3855 is dealer only and discontinued.
There are two other part numbers listed, for later chassis numbers, QEP104660 and QEP105440.
So i guess my question is, how similar are these later hoses, and will i be able to use one on my early car?
I imagine the box end is the same, the steering box didnt change AFAIK. I also wonder about the interim part... the 105440 part is for '99 onwards cars, which is presumably thor and potentially had potentially different PAS pump placement, but the 104660 part appears to be GEMS age and went from '97 to '98
Was there a GEMS steering pump change around there that means the 104660 hose wont fit my older pump?
I figure its better making a new thread about this, rather than adding to the other post, as i'm fairly sure its a new/seperate issue...
As per this thread:
The car had weird fuelling issues before its MOT. It failed the test with massively high CO, then after being parked for a few weeks, would barely run at all with massive missfiring and belching out black smoke. Plugs were all caked black with soot when i removed them. There was a fault code which pointed to the MAF, so i got one from ebay, fitted it along with some new plugs and it passed the MOT just fine with perfect CO readings.
Fast forward to last night. Its not been used since it passed the MOT as it wasnt taxed, but i taxed it yesterday and took it out for a run to get pizza. Drove perfectly well all the way there and all the way home. It wasnt hugely far, maybe 4 or 5miles but enough to get it fully warmed up etc. Even gave it a full throttle blast upto 60mph and it was all fine. Until i turned into my street, when all of a sudden it wouldnt rev. Idled fine as did very light throttle, so i trundled into the drive and parked up.
Some cursory checking last night showed it was exactly the same on both petrol and LPG, and missfired both under load and while revving in neutral, at the same point on the revs. It would rev upto about 1500rpm, any more and it starts acting up. I tried it with the MAF unplugged, exactly the same. MAF readings also looked sensible enough. Lambdas also looked sane. I reset adaptions and no change. Checked CTS and it read fine.
Left it overnight, went out this afternoon and fired it up from cold, problem gone. reset adaptions and put everything back together and took it out for another drive. Sure enough, after about 10minutes, same shit. Managed to drive it home with light throttle. I dont think its load related specifically, but obviously being an automatic the rpms naturally want to climb up past 1500rpm and thus it starts spluttering.
I made a short video, i thaught the audio would have been much more audiable but its not that great annoyingly. Hopefully if you crank the volume right up you can hear it. However you can see me blip the throttle a few times at the start and it revs cleanly, then slowly adding throttle up to 1500rpm and you hear it start its weirdness, then i really opened the throttle and it started popping and banging.
for the third time, the car has popped a fault code for the front left height sensor, so i've gone to order a new one.
Seems that for early cars like mine, they sell a "Kit" which contains a new bracket, some wiring and bolts and things.
The kit is obviously handed, because the bracket is side specific, however what i'm wondering, is are the sensors used the normal 97-> sensors or are they specific to the conversion kit?
The EAS tank is empty (it leaks out if its been parked) and the car decided to empty its airbags as i shut all the doors with it jacked right up.
The engine wont run as its waiting on a new MAF...
Is there any way i can get EAS to fill the tank and lift itself to normal height without starting the engine? I have nanocom, not sure if i can start the compressor and open the appropriate valves with that?
So the P38 likes to use coolant, and i think most of it is actually just leaking out than anything nefarious.
I've fixed a few engine bay leaks, but while working on it changing the plugs the other day, i notice a puddle of coolant on top of the LPG vaporiser... Theres no way coolant could have dripped onto there, it must've come from the vaporiser itself?!
Looking at the vaporiser, it appears to be in three pieces. i guess a coolant loop in the centre, then the two actual gas parts on either side. It seems to be leaking from the seam between them. It also has that sort of red crystally look you get when coolant has been leaking and evaporating away over time...
Anyone heard of this before? fixable? Or new vaporiser time?
It looks very similar to the Bigas RI-21 vaporiser that tinley tech sells.
While sitting behind the rangey at the weekend i noticed a rusty protrusion on the rear bumper. Closer inspection showed two rusty protrusions which turned out to be hanging out of the access holes underneath, that are there to let you undo the bumper.
I fished about in the hole, and this fell out:
Looked at the other side and sure enough, the same thing was hanging out of the hole on that side too.
Bumper appears to be very loose, so clearly these mountings have failed. But i'm unsure if its just the bumper itself thats rusted out, or if the chassis is knackered... Does anyone know how the bumper attaches and where those rusty nuts are likely to be from?
I would remove the bumper for a look, but the LPG filler is attached to it which makes it a less trivial task.
I know its mostly a cosmetic issue, but i really would like to sort the head liner out. Its sagging in the rear load area, but more annoyingly the sunroof covering keeps falling on my head!
I've seen the kits from martrim, just wanting to make sure this is the right stuff:
I want the black fabric which isnt listed as a kit for the range rover, anyone care to suggests how much i need? I'll probably cover the A/B/C pillar trims as well if i can?
Touched on this before a bit but still not sure where i stand.
The brakes on the P38 have always felt poor. But its a big heavy car thats fairly old, and comparing it with modern cars is quite difficult, modern stuff always feels a LOT more powerful due to much greater power assistance (some might suggest too much). Its the heaviest car i own, and also has the smallest brakes of any car i own or have owned for a number of years. So i'm unsure if its right, or it has an issue.
When i bought it the accumulator was burst, so it got a new accumulator and a full system bleed following the instructions in rave. It all worked well enough, but the pedal always felt a bit "wooden", There wasnt a lot of bite to the brakes, and you needed quite a lot of pedal effort to stop quickly. If you heaved on it, it did stop, as we discovered when my mate was driving and didnt notice a motorcyclist, and full emergency stop spec braking had it stood on its nose.
Last year, one the the rear calipers had siezed. Upon inspection the opposite side had been replaced recently (it was shiney silver vs the siezed one which was very rusty) so i replaced the siezed side and bled the new rear caliper only, using the hydraulic pump (ignition on, open nipple, press pedal, wait till nice clear stream of fluid, close nipple, release pedal)
After that the brakes felt noticably better with a more positive pedal feel, which puzzled me at the time, given i'd only replaced one caliper.
When i did the front suspension a few months ago, i noticed the front caliper dust boots were all torn, and shortly after the drivers front started sticking, and also developed a horrible "warped brakes" vibration. I decided to fix it all properly, so ordered a pair of new calipers, and nice new brembo disks and pads (not fancy drilled or owt, just decent quality standard parts). I guess, after things improving so much when i replaced the rear caliper i expected big things...
Today i managed to get them fitted, and bled the system following the rave instructions, except i didnt touch the rear booster or rear caliper bleeders as i figured those hadnt been disturbed.
Took it for a drive and i'm still not convinced its right. Maybe the new parts just need some time to bed in, but the pedal feels (i think) softer than it did before, and not really any more effective. I had expected it would have improved a decent amount once i replaced the siezed calipers, instead its left me feeling a bit "meh". I did 20miles, mostly motorway so not a great deal of braking, and it did seem to be improving towards the end of the trip, so potentially it does just need bedding in.
I'll put some miles on it and see, maybe i should redo the whole bleeding procedure including the rears... what would be really handy would be having a go of a good working P38 to see how it compares. Unfortunately i'm not sure anyone on the forum is particularly local to Fife/Lothians area.
Another years ticket completed.
Few bits i still need to sort though!
As per my other thread about my new P38, when i took it for its MOT it seemed to be running very rich, reeked of petrol, had no power and was generally pretty rough.
In an effort to cure the thing running like a burst arse I've ordered some new spark plugs. They havent arrived yet, but i decided i would whip the old ones out and check them over to see if any of them gave any clues to it running poorly. Started on the left side of the engine, first three plugs were dark and sooty with a white tip, then i discovered HT lead number 7 sitting next to the plug, on top of the exhaust manifold... I think i've unplugged it when i was changing the crank sensor, and havent put it back on! Pulled number 7 spark plug and sure enough its wet with fuel as you'd expect. Fairly happy that i'd found something actually wrong, i started on the other side. No missing leads this time, but plug number 6 was also wet with fuel. Hmm!
At first i wondered if 6 and 7 shared a coil (being wasted spark i figured the disconnected lead might have disturbed the other cylinder) but no, 7 shares with 4, which was fine, and 6 shares with 1, which was also fine, so i'm unsure its a coil issue?
So 6 not firing is currently a bit of a mystery, but at least i'm getting somewhere with it. I'll maybe pull number 6 lead off completely and check it over for damage, they look like fairly new magnecore leads. I guess its also possible that number 6 injector is dribbling or otherwise not spraying properly?
While bleeding my rear brakes, i discovered the bracket that holds the rear brake pipes to the axle case just floating in thin air:
I tried to see where it had come off, but couldnt figure it out. There was no witness marks or remains where it had broken off. I also noticed the metal shields that are covering the abs cables were only attached at one end, and were just floating at the other end with nothing to bolt onto.
I started wondering what on earth was going on, and today managed to get a photo of the rear axle on a '95 P38:
Slightly different angle, but you can see the same hose bracket, and also can see that its bolted to a small "platform" thats part of the axle case. You can also see the wire covers are bolted to a tab on the axle. These features arent present on my axle.
Sooo, i suspect my axle has been swapped out for a later one, as later trucks didnt have the centre mounted flexis, and instead had a flexi at either end.
I want to fix it properly, leaving me two options. Fabricate a platform on the axle case to properly mount the bracket, or convert the pipework properly to the later spec.
Can anyone get me some pics of the later pipe layout? I believe theres some sort of bracket at each end of the axle, then a flexi upto the chassis to another bracket.
I need to have a look on my axle and see if the axle brackets are still present!
Has anyone come up with a decent alternative source for these?
One of mine wasnt catching and failed the MOT, and ones missing its cover. I managed to find a replacement one in the scrappy for the MOT failure side, but it too has already been glued together, and its latching doesnt feel particularly positive. Of the three P38's the scrappy had, they were all in the same state, with cracked/broken/missing covers.
Hoping that some other car might be able to offer a compatible clip?
I've got a pair of nearly-new Britpart front shocks from my P38.
When i bought it, i thought the front shocks were blown, so ordered some new ones. When i went to install them i realised the bottom mounting for one of them had come undone, and there wasnt anything wrong with the shocks, they just werent attached.
I fitted my new ones anyway, and when i removed them realised the shocks were almost new looking.
They're cheapy britpart ones, but i figured they'd do someone to get thru an MOT or whatever. I've had them on ebay for 99p and they didnt sell, twice. So before i chuck them in the bin, does anyone want them? Just cover the postage and they're yours.
Sorry for the seperate posts, but its better to keep each issue in its own thread i think.
Another issue i've got is the steering makes a sort of groaning noise when turning to the extremes of travel. It also feels fairly stiff especially at low speeds.
When driving its mostly fine, but navigating a car park for instance where your turning to full lock it makes a weird noise. I guess i should try to record the noise as its hard to explain!
So when i got the P38 the brake system was broken. The pedal was spongey and brakes were barely effective, one press of the pedal had the pump running and the lights on the dashboard flashing up. It did stop, but the travel was long and the brakes were really weak.
I replaced the brake accumulator, and did a full system bleed, and the problems seemed fixed.
However when driving the brakes dont seem all that powerful.
I've noticed that on startup, the brake pump runs for quite a while, then once driving, every 2 or 3 applications of the brake you hear it start up and run for a few seconds.
Once driving the pedal seems firm, but theres not a huge amount of power unless you really lean on it. Maybe its just an old car thing, and i'm more used to modern stuff. I dont remember my old trooper being quite as bad though.
I knew i'd need to replace the P38's exhaust ever since buying it. It failed its first MOT on major exhaust leaks from a hole in the rear box and a big leak from the flange between the downpipe and midbox. I'd stuck some epoxy putty on there to get it thru the test and started looking for replacement bits.
I wanted stainless and cheap. Not an easy combo. Kept my eye on ebay and found this:
Not ideal being straight piped, but cheap at 50quid and despite the listing not mentioning it, looked like stainless steel. So took a punt.
It arrived and seemed fine, so i decided to sort it out with a silencer. I had a stainless mid box that i'd removed from my brothers 320d BMW when he upgraded the exhaust, and figured it would fit nicely.
Removed old the rear box, it literally fell to bits:
Then dug the small silencer box out the garage and welded it into the rear of the new exhaust, had it on and off the car about 6 times getting the alignment right, but got there in the end:
I also had a nice tailpipe from an Audi A6, so carefully aligned and welded that on:
Having got to this stage i had a working back box and was quite pleased, but the mid box needed attention. The front flange was leaking, and there was a hole rusted thru it beside the hanger, which had got much worse with all the hacking about thus far.
I decided to get a bit silly, and so used a bit of the old backbox pipe, to create a streight thru mid box. I plated over the hole in beside the hanger with some scrap steel (not shown in this pic, you can still see the hole):
Having examined the front flange, i realised it was leaking because the round part on the downpipe side had crumbled away. After scratching my head i found an Audi exhaust clamp in the garage. These are nice, as they're designed to sleeve over the pipe and clamp on. So i cut the remains of the busted front flange off and set about figuring out how i can use the clamp.
The clamp was designed for 65mm pipe, but the downpipe was 55 and the silencer was 60. Luckily i had some pipe kicking around so sleeved the box and downpipe up to 2.5" to accept the clamp.
I didnt get it fully finished, as i took the backbox back off to paint up the welds to protect them, and proceeded to drop the damn thing on the ground and get the wet paint covered in mud.
So maybe tonight i'll repaint it and get the backbox re-hung.
It is LOUD. I only took it for a quick spin around the block, and that was also before i fixed the leaks. As expected really, my plan is to get a stainless mid-box for it as well, so i'll have it apart again at some point to sort that out, and that will make it somewhat more sensible. In the mean time i figured i'd enjoy a bit of V8 roar!
So while trying to make the car actually run, i pulled all the LPG pipework out the engine bay.
The injectors were originally mounted above the exhaust manifolds which was stupid, so on reassembly i remounted them off the plenum.
The pipework from the evaporator was strange so i removed all that and want to re-do it properly. there was also no filter.
So i currently have this:
Originally there was two short pipes off each side of the evaporator, each running to a Y connector. One branch of the Y went to a gas rail, and the other linked to the other Y.
I understand i should have a filter, and i've discovered filters with two inlets:
So instead of all the messing with Y pieces, can i just run the two evaporator outputs into that, and then run the outputs from that directly to each gas rail?
Well finally taxed the rangey today and took her out for a spin, only 6 miles over to a nearby cafe then home again, but enough to make sure everything worked.
Theres still an arm-length list of niggles and no doubt some other things will pop up as it starts being used. Some notable things from today:
The steering feels a little wandery, i know these are steering box cars and they arent as direct as racks, but not sure if its normal or showing signs of wear. MOT tester didnt mention any play anywhere in the suspension. Steering also makes a strange groaning noise when manoevering at the extremes of travel, i half suspect the damper for that, but unsure.
Doesnt feel hugely powerful. I guess its a heavy car, but i'd expect a bit more from 220hp. I didnt thrash it, infact only applied full throttle once for a short time, but less urgent than i'd have thought. My old Diesel Trooper i think went just as well and it reportedly only had about 120hp... :/
Theres a whine from the transmission. Again, maybe normal, sounds exactly like a public service bus gearbox. I topped up the oil before i went out, as there was nothing showing on the stick when it was idling, put maybe 1.5L down the dipstick hole, but was really struggling to tell what the level was. Maybe it got quieter after that. I plan to replace the sump strainer anyway and give it some fresh new oil, so maybe that will help.
Anyway the thing that stuck me as "i should really fix that" was the air compressor. It was replaced not long before i bought the car, as the old broken one was in the boot. I've noticed it acting oddly after its been parked up, and i'll do my best to describe what it does. When you start the car after its been sitting a while (despite it having been parked in "normal" mode) the Access mode light is on, and the normal mode is flashing. It sits like this for ages, several minutes, before eventually the light goes solid normal. As i was planning to drain the trans oil, i then put it in high mode, and it raised up just fine without any delay. It started lashing down, so instead of draining it i decided to simply top it up. Left the engine running and went under the bonnet to pour oil in the dipstick hole. Noticed that the compressor seemed to run for the whole time i was under there, though no clicking of valves, and obviously got quite hot.
I figured it might just be due to me jacking it up from high, so went out for a drive and decided to keep an eye on it. When we got home, the compressor was properly toasty-hot. I'm not convinced its a leaking bag. I've parked it with the EAS relay removed for a week, and it didnt really seem to "deflate" itself. though its parked on a bit of wonky gravel so maybe one of the rears was deflating.
Any words of wisdom?