rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's
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Sep 13 2016
26 April 2018 - 11:22

The HP PAS line from the pump to the box has a weep at the crimped joint, its also very rusty. Clearly i should be looking to replace it.

When looking on LRCat:

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/93085/93086/7406/93109

It suggests ANR3855 for my early car.

However ANR3855 is dealer only and discontinued.

There are two other part numbers listed, for later chassis numbers, QEP104660 and QEP105440.

So i guess my question is, how similar are these later hoses, and will i be able to use one on my early car?

I imagine the box end is the same, the steering box didnt change AFAIK. I also wonder about the interim part... the 105440 part is for '99 onwards cars, which is presumably thor and potentially had potentially different PAS pump placement, but the 104660 part appears to be GEMS age and went from '97 to '98

Was there a GEMS steering pump change around there that means the 104660 hose wont fit my older pump?

23 May 2018 - 13:58

for the third time, the car has popped a fault code for the front left height sensor, so i've gone to order a new one.

Seems that for early cars like mine, they sell a "Kit" which contains a new bracket, some wiring and bolts and things.

The kit is obviously handed, because the bracket is side specific, however what i'm wondering, is are the sensors used the normal 97-> sensors or are they specific to the conversion kit?

02 May 2018 - 16:34

I figure its better making a new thread about this, rather than adding to the other post, as i'm fairly sure its a new/seperate issue...

As per this thread:
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/853?page=2

The car had weird fuelling issues before its MOT. It failed the test with massively high CO, then after being parked for a few weeks, would barely run at all with massive missfiring and belching out black smoke. Plugs were all caked black with soot when i removed them. There was a fault code which pointed to the MAF, so i got one from ebay, fitted it along with some new plugs and it passed the MOT just fine with perfect CO readings.

Fast forward to last night. Its not been used since it passed the MOT as it wasnt taxed, but i taxed it yesterday and took it out for a run to get pizza. Drove perfectly well all the way there and all the way home. It wasnt hugely far, maybe 4 or 5miles but enough to get it fully warmed up etc. Even gave it a full throttle blast upto 60mph and it was all fine. Until i turned into my street, when all of a sudden it wouldnt rev. Idled fine as did very light throttle, so i trundled into the drive and parked up.

Some cursory checking last night showed it was exactly the same on both petrol and LPG, and missfired both under load and while revving in neutral, at the same point on the revs. It would rev upto about 1500rpm, any more and it starts acting up. I tried it with the MAF unplugged, exactly the same. MAF readings also looked sensible enough. Lambdas also looked sane. I reset adaptions and no change. Checked CTS and it read fine.

Left it overnight, went out this afternoon and fired it up from cold, problem gone. reset adaptions and put everything back together and took it out for another drive. Sure enough, after about 10minutes, same shit. Managed to drive it home with light throttle. I dont think its load related specifically, but obviously being an automatic the rpms naturally want to climb up past 1500rpm and thus it starts spluttering.

I made a short video, i thaught the audio would have been much more audiable but its not that great annoyingly. Hopefully if you crank the volume right up you can hear it. However you can see me blip the throttle a few times at the start and it revs cleanly, then slowly adding throttle up to 1500rpm and you hear it start its weirdness, then i really opened the throttle and it started popping and banging.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vu2ivbphj76cv0c/2018-05-02%2015.46.32.mp4?dl=0

07 April 2018 - 14:30

So the car is being awkward as usual.

Started the front axle balljoints this morning and its fought us the whole way. getting the hubs off took what felt like hours of beating, one oil seal is ruined, and i smashed both CV boots so those are also wrecked.

Then started on trying to break the tapers free on the balljoints... The top ones came free easily enough but the bottom one wouldnt shift. I've ended up grinding the balljoint cone off, then taking the knuckle to the bench and smashing it out with a lump hammer.

So finally we're at the worst bit of the whole thing, pressing the balljoints out. I ordered a big G Clamp style balljoint press and it fits well enough, but i cannot get the balljoints to shift. I've tightened it to the point the spanner jaws are spreading and slipping off the hex and theres been no movement at all. I cant get a socket on because the clamp is hard against the arch liner.

Anyone got any pointers to get the balljoints moving? Theres a few guides floating around that seem to cover reinstalling them, but the removal is glossed over...

14 July 2018 - 10:06

Urgh typical. Few months back I changed all the ball joints on the front end, and also replaced the axle oil seals and CV joints.

While investigating my shit brakes, I found this:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/VAGcqjiidzjs6neX8

Looks like the axle oil seal on that side has failed pretty badly... Which makes me concerned as they were genuine seals, not cheap shite. Either I've somehow installed it incorrectly or theres something going on with the ball joint adjustment collet thingy that's ruined the new seal rapidly.

27 April 2018 - 16:03

So the P38 likes to use coolant, and i think most of it is actually just leaking out than anything nefarious.

I've fixed a few engine bay leaks, but while working on it changing the plugs the other day, i notice a puddle of coolant on top of the LPG vaporiser... Theres no way coolant could have dripped onto there, it must've come from the vaporiser itself?!

Looking at the vaporiser, it appears to be in three pieces. i guess a coolant loop in the centre, then the two actual gas parts on either side. It seems to be leaking from the seam between them. It also has that sort of red crystally look you get when coolant has been leaking and evaporating away over time...

Anyone heard of this before? fixable? Or new vaporiser time?

It looks very similar to the Bigas RI-21 vaporiser that tinley tech sells.

15 April 2018 - 15:54

The EAS tank is empty (it leaks out if its been parked) and the car decided to empty its airbags as i shut all the doors with it jacked right up.

The engine wont run as its waiting on a new MAF...

Is there any way i can get EAS to fill the tank and lift itself to normal height without starting the engine? I have nanocom, not sure if i can start the compressor and open the appropriate valves with that?

15 May 2018 - 21:04

I know its mostly a cosmetic issue, but i really would like to sort the head liner out. Its sagging in the rear load area, but more annoyingly the sunroof covering keeps falling on my head!
I've seen the kits from martrim, just wanting to make sure this is the right stuff:

http://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/brush-nylon-headlining.php

I want the black fabric which isnt listed as a kit for the range rover, anyone care to suggests how much i need? I'll probably cover the A/B/C pillar trims as well if i can?

25 April 2018 - 13:08

While sitting behind the rangey at the weekend i noticed a rusty protrusion on the rear bumper. Closer inspection showed two rusty protrusions which turned out to be hanging out of the access holes underneath, that are there to let you undo the bumper.

I fished about in the hole, and this fell out:

enter image description here

Looked at the other side and sure enough, the same thing was hanging out of the hole on that side too.

Bumper appears to be very loose, so clearly these mountings have failed. But i'm unsure if its just the bumper itself thats rusted out, or if the chassis is knackered... Does anyone know how the bumper attaches and where those rusty nuts are likely to be from?

I would remove the bumper for a look, but the LPG filler is attached to it which makes it a less trivial task.

09 July 2018 - 19:58

Touched on this before a bit but still not sure where i stand.

The brakes on the P38 have always felt poor. But its a big heavy car thats fairly old, and comparing it with modern cars is quite difficult, modern stuff always feels a LOT more powerful due to much greater power assistance (some might suggest too much). Its the heaviest car i own, and also has the smallest brakes of any car i own or have owned for a number of years. So i'm unsure if its right, or it has an issue.

When i bought it the accumulator was burst, so it got a new accumulator and a full system bleed following the instructions in rave. It all worked well enough, but the pedal always felt a bit "wooden", There wasnt a lot of bite to the brakes, and you needed quite a lot of pedal effort to stop quickly. If you heaved on it, it did stop, as we discovered when my mate was driving and didnt notice a motorcyclist, and full emergency stop spec braking had it stood on its nose.

Last year, one the the rear calipers had siezed. Upon inspection the opposite side had been replaced recently (it was shiney silver vs the siezed one which was very rusty) so i replaced the siezed side and bled the new rear caliper only, using the hydraulic pump (ignition on, open nipple, press pedal, wait till nice clear stream of fluid, close nipple, release pedal)

After that the brakes felt noticably better with a more positive pedal feel, which puzzled me at the time, given i'd only replaced one caliper.

When i did the front suspension a few months ago, i noticed the front caliper dust boots were all torn, and shortly after the drivers front started sticking, and also developed a horrible "warped brakes" vibration. I decided to fix it all properly, so ordered a pair of new calipers, and nice new brembo disks and pads (not fancy drilled or owt, just decent quality standard parts). I guess, after things improving so much when i replaced the rear caliper i expected big things...

Today i managed to get them fitted, and bled the system following the rave instructions, except i didnt touch the rear booster or rear caliper bleeders as i figured those hadnt been disturbed.

Took it for a drive and i'm still not convinced its right. Maybe the new parts just need some time to bed in, but the pedal feels (i think) softer than it did before, and not really any more effective. I had expected it would have improved a decent amount once i replaced the siezed calipers, instead its left me feeling a bit "meh". I did 20miles, mostly motorway so not a great deal of braking, and it did seem to be improving towards the end of the trip, so potentially it does just need bedding in.

I'll put some miles on it and see, maybe i should redo the whole bleeding procedure including the rears... what would be really handy would be having a go of a good working P38 to see how it compares. Unfortunately i'm not sure anyone on the forum is particularly local to Fife/Lothians area.

03 May 2019 - 18:58

I've had a persistant coolant leak from the inlet manifold for a while. There was always a puddle of coolant underneath the big fitting on the right side of the manifold that feeds the heater matrix. I had actually assumed the threads were leaking (theres signs of PTFE tape).
Inspecting it closely earlier i noticed some slightly worrying signs, firstly, it think the hose looks noticable swollen. Its ~19mm at both ends, but it bulges out beside the inlet manifold in a rather unnatural manner, and replacement hoses on ebay look nothing like that, they appear to be 19mm all the way along. Secondly i think its leaking from the cords... I tightened the clip up but it continues to leak. I think the coolants actually seeping along the reinforcement cords and out the end, suggesting the inside of the hose is compromised. A disaster waiting to happen for sure!

The small complex that feeds the heater/expansion tank/thermostat, also has signs of pink coolant leaking from the joints, so i'll replace all of those, and i think actually i should just replace everything. The lower thermostat hoses are drenched in oily ming which also isnt good for rubber hoses, and the main top rad hose looks a wee bit "uneven" though not swollen to the extreme of that heater hose.

So that leads me to the question. The heater o-rings. They arent (obviously) leaking, but i believe removing the heater hoses runs the risk of disturbing them? I've noticed when inspecting the pipes earlier that the top heater pipe that pokes thru the bulkhead was covered in the usual tell-tale pink deposits, suggesting coolant is leaking either from the pipe or the o ring. Theres no obvious dampness inside though.

I dont really have time to sort the o-rings at the moment, but i'd like to get this clearly knackered coolant hose sorted out before it leaves me stranded... What are my chances!?

25 April 2018 - 14:24

enter image description here

Another years ticket completed.

Few bits i still need to sort though!

20 April 2019 - 19:06

When i had my door apart to fix the latch, i discovered two rubbers in the bottom of the door. I asked about it at the time and someone said they were the rubbers out of the window rails and will cause the window to rattle when they're missing and its open. Sure enough my window rattles and i'd like to fix it.

Does anyone have any pointers for refitting these rubbers? After todays efforts at trying to fix stuff, i'd like to be a little better prepared and avoid another frustrating day getting nowhere!

Cheers

31 July 2019 - 20:59

Hi folks,

I've just fitted a new bumper to the rangey, and i've managed to break some of the nut-clip things that hold the foglights on (old and rusty!)

I would like to get some new nut-clips. The two that clip onto the metal beam at the top look pretty standard, i've properly got a box of them somewhere. But the ones that clip onto the foglights themselves for the lower fixings look a bit special.

I've tried to find them on the lrcat thing, but i just cant find them. Maybe they just come with the foglights? But i've noticed the blanking covers that go in instead of fogs dont come with the nut-clips (various places sell them new, and they clearly arent included in the product pictures, so that would imply they do come seperately.

Anyone know the part number?

Cheers
Kev

05 June 2017 - 07:01

So we plan to drive the Range Rover to goodwood at the end of the month. I've done a few local trips of around 80 miles and thus far it seems fine. Theres a slight drone on lifting off the throttle, and a bit of vibration at certain road speeds that i'd like to sort out, i guess i'll start with wheel balancing.

Before we go theres some bits i want to get sorted out, like getting the LPG working! and fixing the shonky track rod end, but those are in hand and i mostly know what i'm doing there, hopefully get onto that this weekend.

However the two bits i'm not sure about are the cruise control and aircon. Neither are critical ofcourse, but both will hugely transform comfort levels on a long trip, AC especially if its hot!

Are there any common faults with either that i should look at?

I scanned the HEVAC with nanocom a while back and i'm sure there was a fault code for low pressure, though i cant actually remember (i'll scan again later). I dont think theres any way to scan the Cruise control system though is there?

When i get the alignment sorted i plan to ask the garage to attempt to gas up the AC system. Which i guess will either work, or find a huge leak... The AC condenser behind the grill looks pretty corroded, but i dunno if it will actually be leaking or if it just looks rough!

The cruise control system i've had something similar in an older Audi, and remember they were a pig to diagnose as there was no diagnostics and about a million different things that went wrong with them. The ECU's also packed up, and the P38 ECU looks pretty similar to the one used on the Audi so its probably the same boat. I remember for the Audi someone wrote a bit of a guide showing various things to probe, which attempted to narrow down where the issue was. Is there something similar for the P38?

Cheers
Kev

14 September 2016 - 17:32

As per my other thread about my new P38, when i took it for its MOT it seemed to be running very rich, reeked of petrol, had no power and was generally pretty rough.

In an effort to cure the thing running like a burst arse I've ordered some new spark plugs. They havent arrived yet, but i decided i would whip the old ones out and check them over to see if any of them gave any clues to it running poorly. Started on the left side of the engine, first three plugs were dark and sooty with a white tip, then i discovered HT lead number 7 sitting next to the plug, on top of the exhaust manifold... I think i've unplugged it when i was changing the crank sensor, and havent put it back on! Pulled number 7 spark plug and sure enough its wet with fuel as you'd expect. Fairly happy that i'd found something actually wrong, i started on the other side. No missing leads this time, but plug number 6 was also wet with fuel. Hmm!

At first i wondered if 6 and 7 shared a coil (being wasted spark i figured the disconnected lead might have disturbed the other cylinder) but no, 7 shares with 4, which was fine, and 6 shares with 1, which was also fine, so i'm unsure its a coil issue?

So 6 not firing is currently a bit of a mystery, but at least i'm getting somewhere with it. I'll maybe pull number 6 lead off completely and check it over for damage, they look like fairly new magnecore leads. I guess its also possible that number 6 injector is dribbling or otherwise not spraying properly?

18 September 2016 - 18:10

While bleeding my rear brakes, i discovered the bracket that holds the rear brake pipes to the axle case just floating in thin air:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hinsgnb8s5vdzsi/2016-09-17%2012.31.51.jpg?dl=0

I tried to see where it had come off, but couldnt figure it out. There was no witness marks or remains where it had broken off. I also noticed the metal shields that are covering the abs cables were only attached at one end, and were just floating at the other end with nothing to bolt onto.

I started wondering what on earth was going on, and today managed to get a photo of the rear axle on a '95 P38:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/82m9nx6ie4062y7/IMG_20160918_140308525.jpg?dl=0

Slightly different angle, but you can see the same hose bracket, and also can see that its bolted to a small "platform" thats part of the axle case. You can also see the wire covers are bolted to a tab on the axle. These features arent present on my axle.

Sooo, i suspect my axle has been swapped out for a later one, as later trucks didnt have the centre mounted flexis, and instead had a flexi at either end.

I want to fix it properly, leaving me two options. Fabricate a platform on the axle case to properly mount the bracket, or convert the pipework properly to the later spec.

Can anyone get me some pics of the later pipe layout? I believe theres some sort of bracket at each end of the axle, then a flexi upto the chassis to another bracket.

I need to have a look on my axle and see if the axle brackets are still present!

11 October 2016 - 08:13

I've got a pair of nearly-new Britpart front shocks from my P38.

When i bought it, i thought the front shocks were blown, so ordered some new ones. When i went to install them i realised the bottom mounting for one of them had come undone, and there wasnt anything wrong with the shocks, they just werent attached.

I fitted my new ones anyway, and when i removed them realised the shocks were almost new looking.

They're cheapy britpart ones, but i figured they'd do someone to get thru an MOT or whatever. I've had them on ebay for 99p and they didnt sell, twice. So before i chuck them in the bin, does anyone want them? Just cover the postage and they're yours.

17 September 2016 - 06:31

Has anyone come up with a decent alternative source for these?

One of mine wasnt catching and failed the MOT, and ones missing its cover. I managed to find a replacement one in the scrappy for the MOT failure side, but it too has already been glued together, and its latching doesnt feel particularly positive. Of the three P38's the scrappy had, they were all in the same state, with cracked/broken/missing covers.

Hoping that some other car might be able to offer a compatible clip?

12 April 2017 - 14:30

Sorry for the seperate posts, but its better to keep each issue in its own thread i think.

Another issue i've got is the steering makes a sort of groaning noise when turning to the extremes of travel. It also feels fairly stiff especially at low speeds.

When driving its mostly fine, but navigating a car park for instance where your turning to full lock it makes a weird noise. I guess i should try to record the noise as its hard to explain!