yeh fair enough, TBH i havent actually looked! Most car propshaft UJ's dont have grease nipples.
If the OEM ones are actually OEM, then get those. I've bought various OEM parts for my Audi, and when they come you can see they've sanded the Audi logo off! Lemforder are the OEM for most of the Audi bushes. Its exactly the same part, but they're not allowed to sell it with the Audi logo on it outwith the genuine parts network!
Same thing when i bought TRW control arms for the front of my old BMW.
Unfortunately landrover parts places seem to have the habit of sticking "OEM" on anything that isnt complete junk.
On the other hand, your original ones have lasted nearly 20 years without grease nipples...
I generally pit the awkwardness of a job, the time it takes, and the possible collateral damage should it fail, against the cost of the parts.
If the only options were £7 for bearmach and £90 for genuine landrover, well i'd be taking the cheap ones.
But the difference between £7 for aftermarket and £12 for the hardy spicer joints is basically nothing. Certainly not worth risking it failing, either catastrophically, or even just getting noisey and having the hassle of another weekend spent bashing at the underside of a P38!
yeh, i'm pretty sure it has timed out before though, which is why its left me scratching my head.
Hope its not discharged the battery too much given the temperatures! I'll have a prod at the weekend.
Arrived home earlier and noticed the interior lights were on in the rangey.
Everything looked shut, so i got the key and locked it, and the dash booped and said "tailgate open".
Sure enough, the tailgate was shut, but not actually latched. Gave it a slam and locked it again and it happily locked and the lights went out.
Turns out the wife opened it at lunch time and got the pram out the back, mustnt have closed it properly.
But its left me wondering, shouldnt the interior lighting time out after 10minutes or so, so as not to drain the battery if a doors left open?!
From owning my E90, which has similar clip in brake pad sensors, once the brake warning is triggered you need to prod some buttons on the dash to clear it, even after you've replaced the sensors (or twisted the wires together, which worked perfectly well on mine). If you try to reset the warning without changing the sensors, the "brake pad warning" gets replaced with a "visit workshop" warning instead. But either warning will still clear by simply fixing the sensors, and going thru the reset motions on the dash stalk. No diagnostic kit required.
i bought that pipe, and had fitted it along with my small rear box. Sounded lovely, but it really was too much. The engine seems to produce a drone around 2300rpm which bursts my head. If it wasnt for the drone i'd probably have left it like that!
I ended up getting a local shop to install a box into that pipe, which helped a bit, but it still drones :(
Its fine if your doing 70mph, and isnt a problem accellerating thru the gears, But if your towing or stuck in traffic doing 60ish the drone is really bad. Infact i found myself knocking it down into third at some points just to give my ears a rest.
Fairly sure the hazards flash and the wee red LED on the dash starts blinking when the car is locked, but i will check tomorrow to be sure.
Managed to get the scope out this morning and capture some traces.
I uploaded the screen captures to google drive here:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1j0Ucc4hITsk0on_65Tvtbc2NR0WrQYtQ
I think as far as i can see, its all working as it should be. Nice repeatable looking signals when pressing the fob buttons when scoping directly from the reciever. Traces looked slightly odd once the filter was added, but that might be a scope issue, i didnt try adjusting anything.
Also captured a random burst of noise that popped up when connected directly to the reciever. You can really see why these caused issues, as sitting there for 5 minutes i saw quite a few bursts, sometimes much more persistent noise than the captured trace as well!
So that begs the question... If the receiver and remote are working, why on earth cant i pair it up?!
no not skye, central belt of scotland.
Those old volvos do seem to be a pretty cheap option, i guess they had a name for safety back in the day, and their general image alters the typical driver which probably means their accident figures are lower than the average.
every company has their own rules.
For some companies adding older experienced named drivers will bring the price down, some quite significantly. Others it makes zero difference.
When my sister in law started driving, she wanted to go on the mother-in-laws insurance as a named driver. It wasnt fronting, it was the mother in laws car and she just wanted to use it now and then. The insurer simply refused to add her, and said she would have to be put down as the main driver. Caused much hassle having to cancel and take out a new policy mid-term.
I suspect in terms of accident safety, you are very likely safer in a new car than a 25 year old landrover. Modern cars are designed to crumple and absorb the impact. They also deform in carefully controlled manners to keep the large chunks of metal away from the occupants. Clearly size still has an effect. They also have MUCH better ABS and ESP systems, which hopefully help reduce the likelyhood of getting into an accident in the first place. That said, something like a P38 isnt something that urges you on to drive quickly, so i guess that helps.
The trick is to play the insurance companies own game. A friend of mine got banned many years ago, and had obviously huge insurnace premiums upon getting driving again. He ran LOADS of quotes on different cars and had some surprising results. I dont remember the exact figures, but i remember a 2000 clio 1.2 was MORE expensive than a 2005. And a Volvo C70 was surprisingly affordable and not all that much more expensive than the clio. He ended up buying an old '96 Corsa, as thats all he could afford at the time. It was actually one of the most expensive cars he'd quoted on. Its all driven on statistics, so you need to find the loopholes.
When i started driving, a friend of a friend had a Volvo 940. At first we took the piss, we were driving Novas and suchlike, the typical "cool" cars back then, and there he was in his "grandad volvo". He pointed out it was turbocharged and had 200hp and was RWD. Significantly quicker than our crappy hatchbacks and was cheap to insure as well. He was doing it right :P
Fife.... only 7 hours and 413miles each way haha!
Performance? Probably not. But longevity? The Lemforder stuff will last, the other stuff? Who knows, but i've never had much luck with any aftermarket suspension bits. they manage a year or two, whereas the original bits managed 15 years or more.
Its certainly a tempting thing to do, i'm probably quite far away though, where does marty reside?
i did mine recently, and it was a ballache but it went ok in the end. Theres probably a thread of mine from when i did it detailling the trials and tribulations.
The main issue i had was when winding up the "G Clamp" style press thing as mentioned above, the press was actually bending. I didnt get to the "4 foot scaffolding pole" stage, but wound it up as much as i dared then smashed at the housing with a big hammer and eventually it came free.
the inner sleeve isnt usually all that tight. Never done a P38 one, maybe they're different, but on every other car i've dealt with it usually comes off with a cold chisel.
I would be somewhat wary going to all that effort and using a poor quality bearing. I've had nasty bearings fail within 6 months before, and its REALLY frustrating having to pull everything apart again because you tried to save 20quid.
I would stick to the big brands. SKF, FAG, Timken, NTN and probably a couple others. A google search for Saha bearings doesnt even find a website....
The ECU will compensate for vacuum leaks, to a point.
I had four 8mm holes in the bottom of my inlet manifold when i removed the throttle heater plate and didnt realise they were drilled right thru. The engine started, and ran like a sack of crap, but it ran. If you revved it up above about 2000rpm or so, it ran perfectly. Below there it got leaner and leaner as the proportion of air bypassing the MAF got larger and larger. It wouldnt idle on its own, but if you kept a bit of throttle on it'd sit happily enough at 1000rpm. Once warmed up you could just about manage to get it to settle to an unsteady idle, but it would often just cut out.
Thus a small leak in a vac line, or even pulling the EVAP line off completely, would not give the no-start symptoms you were experiencing.
The engine will also start and run with the AFM completely unplugged. Though it usually takes a few goes where it will fire, catch and cutout, before the ECU realises the AFM signal doesnt make sense and starts ignoring it.
Yeh that could work as well. I just figure i dont carry a spare key around for any of my other cars and its fine. If we go on a long trip, we usually both take a key, hers goes in her handbag out the way. Worst case its a 1 day special delivery to get the key posted to whereever you are (assuming someone can get to the house and collect it from the drawer!)
Sloth wrote:
I have the Silca part numbers of compatible blanks if not somewhere. Could get a decent independant key cutter to copy your key's blade onto one of those.
I think that sounds like a wise move actually, i think i will get a basic non-remote key made to keep in the drawer should the worst happen and the remote get lost.
An aftermarket replacement remote key however would be even better!
Just to report back, new crank sensor in and its fixed. Hopefully the genuine rover (LDV) one actually lasts this time!
I did turn the engine over by hand and inspect the teeth on the reluctor, nothing bent or out of place.