I have been busy the last couple of days on interior stuff.
Got a very nicely re done headliner out of an 98 at the breakers (26 Bucks!), and today, swapped it into Bolt.
I have wondered over the years just what the 3 VERY heavy duty welded steel brackets are which attach at the edge of the rear opening up at the top lip.
They have nice colour matched covers with a slot for whatever goes there.
I have never seen these on another P-38. and was debating whether to punch in the 6 additional holes to re attach them.
In the end, I installed them as they really help hold up the back edge of the headliner.
So, why are they there? What accessory was so heavy it needed these 3 serious brackets to hold it up? Mini crane?
I cannot attach a photo at present as camera is elsewhere.....
Getting ready to place the factory roof rack on the Borrego, and noticed the rubber gaskets are a bit knackered.
I have had a look and cannot seem to find any for sale.......nor the part number for that matter.
After spending the last 4+ months in New Zealand, where I drove A clapped out Camry, A totally soulless Bluebird, A miserable Kia, and a super cheepo Honda somethingorother, I am home here in Hawaii for a week. Here, I have a really small Chevy Shitbox of a hatchback Hire car.
For various reasons, I have been through 3 of these Chevy's in 2 days! (The blue one was the worst, only went 2 miles before shitting itself)
Being on an extended trip on the old lifeboat, I closed up shop here, sold the wife's 00 and de registered and stored the 02.
Kept a battery maintainer on it and she fired up instantly, and rose back up to ride height! Magic!
I was invited to to neighbor's house for BBQ and as it is not currently road legal, I "Had" to take the 8 mile back way up the mountain (Mauna Kea) to get there.
Fortunately it is an old sugar cane haul road, and has not been repaired for over 20 years, so it is in really bad shape (Yes!!)
For a quick jaunt up the hill, it was just plain fun with 2 river crossings.
Getting to the point.......RANGE ROVERS ROCK!!!! ('specially P-38's)
It is soooooo nice to drive a real fully capable truck that feels and handles like a velvet tank.
I had almost forgotten this due to the load of tin can trash I have been borrowing, or hiring lately.
I know that you all know this, but I am still having an Adrenalin rush from a very fast descent. Too much fun!
Oh, the Home kill Beef and Beer was epic as well! :)
Aloha, I have made the last 2 posts here in "Opening Time" as they were not electrical, or oily in nature......
Please advise if they should be elsewhere?
Yesterdays fun was replacing the right side blend motor. having read Rave, and the tips and tricks from the old .net site,
I went with the drop the glovebox, cut the duct, drill a hole for hidden screw method, and was able to get it changed.
I spliced the wires at the HVAC plug, for ease of access.
After installation, and taping the duct, I tested it for function, and found that during the process of shifting the ducts, I
dislodged the pipe that runs across to the RH side vent! No way to get it together from beneath!
SO, I thought to simply remove the Passenger side Air bag.....Looks easy with the 4 torx screws and a plug.........
Just gotta pop off the trim above the glove box.....Yea! Right!! Using Jos Guese's instructions from .net, I tried to gently but firmly get it to pop loose. It would not budge!.
In doing this however I noticed that the whole mess is a bit flexible, in that a padded airbag case is nestled in a padded dash.
Thus, the tip of the day for anyone trying to get the bloody airbag out is to use a thin, flat pry bar (Stanley Wonder Bar) and gently lever the bottom edge of the airbag up over the top of the trim strip. It actually pops out easily.
Make note of the clear lexan spacers on the lower front of the airbag to be sure they go back where they belong. Replacement is reverse
with the top edge going in first, then just gently prise the trim back to allow the 2 tabs on the airbag to drop in to the slot.
With airbag out, it was easy to fix the duct work although, I never worked out where the odd 100 mm wide U shaped convoluted spring clip came from???? It just fell out as soon as I started messing round with the ducts....
You also gain great access to the blend motors from above!
Note: Be careful when putting the air bag back that the glove box release cable is correctly routed, and not pinched under the forward left attachment point of the bracket.....If you do, you will need to drop the glove box, remove the airbag again, and shift the cable......Just saying.....
Easy 2 hour job........next time! 4 hours for the first go. I would have also done O rings at this time if I had thought to get some beforehand.
I posted this on the "Other" forum, so sorry if you are seeing it twice......
Looking forward to hearing the difference in brake parts!
Also, Any issues with basic EBC rotors and Ultimax 2 pads?
Here's the link.....
I have been searching for the last week for someone who can sell me rotors that are not Chinese knock offs.
I am about to buy some Brit made EBC rotors and pads for the Borrrego, and came across an interesting question.
The place I am looking (TH Motorsports) lists brake parts as for:
w/ 4 Engine VIN
w/ 6 Engine VIN
Same thing for rears.
The same kit with slightly different part numbers is a bit more $$ for the 6 Vin........
I was under the impression that the brakes were the same from 95-02?
Anycl ue as to what they are concerned with the engine vin for? I assume this is either a Bosh / Gems thing, or a 4.0 / 4.6 thing........
Looking forward to learning something new!
Looking for some consensus on new shockers for Bolt.
I finally traced a strange thumping noise to LF and RR shocks having worn bushes.
As they are probably original, and I have 155k on it now, I may as well replace all 4.
I have Arnott Gen IIs on it, so no extra height.
What do we like these days for shocks?
I am in the midst of doing diffs, T-case, and engine services.
I noticed ~after, of course~ that I was sold 75-140 full syn gear oil, and manual calls for 75-90........
155k miles on the beastie, will there be any issue with the wider viscosity range gear oil?
Did a search, and found no answers......(Did not even bother trying on the dark side!)
Aloha, and G'day,
I am here in Oz helping a mate with his L322.......Fan got unbalanced, and broke the water pump clean off! (td6)
We are looking for the fan, Pump, and while we are at it, some new rad hoses.
I have found some things at land-rover-parts-shop.com, and others at LRDirect.
What I am after is just which parts are to be avoided.....I already know to steer VERY clear of anything from Britparts.
Any others? or ones that are usually good value?
Being NA based in the past, i have not paid enough attention to you UK guys and where you like to shop. Being in Oz now, I am amazed by
the blatant ripping off of the customer that is practiced by some outfits.
So, who should we be shopping from there?
Oh, yea......The LAST thing I would buy myself would be an L322!!!! P-38's RULE!!!
I have been messing about with a couple of spare compressors this afternoon and have noticed something possibly amiss.....
The exhaust valve makes sense with it's O ring seal and stiff backing plate, but the way both of the units I took apart were assembled, the
intake reed valve has a short piece under it which effectively prevents it from sealing on the flat surface of the head. This allows a lot of air to return to the intake side
on every compression stroke!
Thinking this was wrong, and as I have 2 on the bench, I assembled one as it was (and like I saw in several you tube videos) with the short intake reed below
and one with it in the logical place, above.....
Upon bench testing, the second method provided about 2x the airflow. To eliminate the variables of piston and motor, I swapped the order of assembly on both and re tested.
Same result. Short reed above and long reed on the bottom works much better......
Next, I will check the 2 pumps on the Borrego and Bolt.....
Took a spin to the breakers today ("Essential" industry, thus open!) There is a 2001 beautiful dark green, EAS still holding air! and
a new headliner. I found a 4 inch blow out in the main Rad hose, so I think we know why it is at the knackers yard. Sad!
The owner obviously took good care of it other than the hoses......
I will probably return to grab all of the EAS stuff to put back under the Borrego.
Among the bits I scored another DSP amp (2 good spares now!) and all of the temp sensors for the AC
3 working blend motors.........Gotta get rid of the "chequebook!" on the HVAC But that's not what I need to know.
My windscreen has a slowly creeping crack that was just under the rear view mirror mount when I bought Bolt, and has now crept
down about 6 inches.....Also a stone chip on the passengers side, about 50% of the wires
do not heat.... I think it will be time to replace it soon.
The 2001 at the breakers has an pristine windscreen that can be had for $40 bucks.....I just need to remove it intact.
I have seen wire saws in use in the past, but have never tried them out.
I am assuming it is simply glued in with some really good snot?
Any clips or fastenings I should have in hand before starting?
Any words of wisdom? advice? If I break it trying to remove it, I will not be charged......What could possibly go wrong?
I will probably enlist the help of a proper glass fitter to re install it......Maybe......
I was chasing a slight weep at the Left rear of the engine on the white 02 "Bolt".....
As I still do not have my full tool set to do head gaskets as they are still in Hawaii due to the virus related lock downs and quarantines, and
the fact that I needed to shift about 600 miles North with all of the kit, and needed to use Bolt to tow with.....
And, as Bolt has 156k miles on the clock, and has been a perfect performer in all other ways......
I very timidly added 1/2 of the small blue bottle of K-Seal to the rad tank....I know: Imminent disaster!!! Overheating, plugged heater core, ruined radiator...Etc....Ad Nauseum....
But wait! The weep stopped!......Then it returned a week later but much less....So I added the second 2 oz of K-seal (The other 1/2 bottle)
I have now done 2 major round trips 1400 mi each, and towing heavy trailers up and down the mountains
on I-5 and doing 75-90 mph in 100+ degree heat with A/C blasting with not a drop of coolant spilled, and no overheating issues!
I was, and am still fully prepared to replace both the heater core (with Audi) and the rad, which is factory......
However, as it is not blocked, and has performed much better than I expected on the towing trips, I will say:
"The stuff seems to work as advertised"
I will admit to being very surprised and expect to find a deep smouldering crater in my parking space sometime soon, but until then,
I am content to let things simmer along as they are.
I felt I needed to post this as the various snake oil quick fix "Mechanic inna bottle" type things seem to get nothing but bad reviews.
Could be I got lucky? Heck, I will take luck any way I can!
Oh, I am sure that some of the stuff will really ruin a cooling system, but hey! Just saying......
I sold all my parts cars to a mate in Hawaii when I started wandering on the boat......Now I need a Transfer case for the Borrego (Machine gun syndrome)
The 1995 car has had the Tcase pulled and left in the back when he sold the trans out of it. Becm is gone as well, so shutting the back was a bad idea.
He is happy to ship me the Case, (Free!) but I have to tell him how to open the back........
I know you can apply power to the rear hatch switch and solenoid via the RH door.....The door cards are all off on this one, so easy access to all wiring.
So....Probably Richard or Marty........Where does he apply power to open the rear?
On a roadtrip to So California ........
just had an event at petrol station. The shifter was locked in park.
I was able to convince it to work, but now fear it may play up with wife driving.
the other side had a recent thread on best way to disable the interlock......now sadly missing.
In a nutshell, what is the best way to get going again when this happens?
I know it is an electrical issue rather than mechanical. The message center said lh brake light bulb failure at the time it happened.
possibly the becm got confused?
I just got back from the breakers with a radio, dsp, climate control, and a Gps head unit. A good haul.
The radio is from an 02, and is for a mate in Hawaii.
I have the vin from the donor car, so what is the best way to get the code?
I seem to recall a thread about this on .net, but cannot find it now.
Well, today's job is putting all of the EAS bits back on the Borrego!
So far so good, I have determined the method used to place it in Manual mode, and reversed that damage.
It looks like they also unplugged the switches on the dash.....
Gotta tear into the centre console for that one. I do have it raising and lowering nicely and no leaks found so far.
NOW, I have been trying to figure out the initial reason they were convinced to castrate it in the first place......
Looks like (Per Nano) the RH front sensor reads 24 no matter its position. no deviation at all. So, a wiring issue.
Nano throws a fault for out of Range sensor. Pot tests good on the bench.
Question is: just how many potentially corroded plugs do those 3 wires go through on the way to the controller???
I cannot access Rave at this moment......If no feedback soon, I will attack the kick panel plugs on both sides.
I also cannot seem to log on to the Pub on my Android tablet in the shop. Seems to have something to do with Catptha?
Currently transiting to Oregon from California on the Waveney (My other car)...(OK Boat...)
Had a set of brushes in one of the CAV alternators get lunched. Probably a result of a bit of oxide on the slip ring
since we have been idle for a couple of years. In any case, I am after 4 sets of Lucas 6067-69 brushes. Just used my last spare set.
I found it is crossed to an AC-7 and these folks seem to have them in stock:
Question: Any thing good or bad to say about this outfit?
Any better place to get them?
Wood Auto has them, but may not post to USA.....
I was perusing the litany of horrors over on the other side......
Found this nugget!:
"If you look in the BECM under SETTINGS -> OTHER If one of the software versions is showing as '153', then chances are it's still in alarm lockout, and if disarming it with the Nanocom isn't working, then it's BECM out time I'm afraid."
Had not run across this previously. Is this consistently the case, or only on later versions?
If this is a constant, it is a fantastic diagnostic to tell if it is in stage 1 lock out or stage 2 Defcon 5 lock down, and needs pulling out.
Could save a LOT of stuffing about trying to get something working.
Well, the good news is it is not DSP related. I still have 2 working DSP amps and 2 spares......
After having zero issues with the head units, I now have one on each car!
Now that it is cold and wet here (Getting down to freezing at night) I have found that the Borrego's stereo now comes up with "Telephone"
and refuses to do anything.
On Bolt, the stereo had a few hours where you could not turn it off, change stations, or volume. You could shift it to CD to shut it up.
Next day, dead as a doornail......... No display, no response to anything. 3 days later, it is back and after about 15 min of being able to control it, it is now on, and stuck.................On a horrible station!
Cannot change anything, at all. Sat nav still speaks loud and clear when appropriate.
Full disclosure: LH pollen filter cover has been giving me fits as i have tried several different types of closed cell
rubber to get a new seal on it. No luck yet. Thus, there has been water trickling down onto the LH side. I have not removed the kick panel yet.
On the Borrego, I am thinking back by the amp? Where does the "Telephone" signal come from? I am imagining a loose plug that is getting damp?
This is one of those Things that make you go "Hmmmmm...?"
Actually it is not making me go Hmmmmmmm? any more, it is now making me go "ARRGHHHhhhh!!!"
EAS on Bolt (02) has been flawless for a long time.
It has been cold (28-40F) lately, as well as wet.
Loaded up the wife and mutts and took a run to our favorite Fish & Chips shop. Made it about 2 of the 3 miles back and suddenly got an
EAS FAULT message on the dash. All lights on selector flashing, and extended height indicator on cluster.
No worries thinks I, Just plug in the trusty Nano, and sort this out.....Easy....... NOT easy......
The Nano initialises, I select EAS with engine running and all doors closed, select faults, the fault screen comes up, and the Nano promptly reboots itself!. I tried multiple times and it either reboots, or just shuts down when i try to read faults.
If I try to look at any of the other EAS screens, it simply freezes on that screen, and does not display any data.
I have to unplug the Nano to get it to reboot.
Nano reads engine, SRS, HVAC, Trans, etc no problem. Just throws a wobbly on the EAS.
As it is a dark and stormy night, I did not get under the bonnet, but as it was sudden onset, I am thinking water in connector, but which one?? and why would this cause the Nano to have such a dramatic shutdown?