The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
247 posts

Aloha all,
I was nor sure just where to post this, as I believe it needs to be posted EVERYWHERE!
Recently, I was directed by KCR (Thank you!) to a bloke named Simon.....
He has come up with a nifty postage stamp sized board which, when inserted into the Bosch engine ECU will send the mobilisation
code needed for the fueling and ignition to function. There are 3 wires to solder on to the board and one pin lead to clip.
Install takes about 15 min start to finish. He needs to know the mobilisation code as it is pre programmed into the chip.
He can provide the chip preinstalled into an appropriate ECU which just needs to be swapped in. No soldering skills needed.
There is also a jumper to install at the Becm to disallow it having a say as to cranking, which it does indeed
disallow in an alarmed and immobilised state.
With this device installed, I proceeded to annoy the Becm by locking with the fob, and unlocking with the key in the door.
Normally, this will trigger the alarm and immobilisation mode will be activated needing either the EKA or a push of the button on a working fob.
To my utter delight, I found that the engine started just fine and there were no notices on the dash. All systems worked fine as well.
Of note, the dashboard alarm Led does continue to flash as if the alarm is going off. As I have unplugged the sounder,
this is the only indication I have that there is anything going on. I believe sounder can also be disabled in Becm with Nano....
I then locked the car with the key, and waited 2 minutes.....The Becm goes to sleep, so no unwanted battery drain.
I got 2 of these and will install in the Borrego tomorrow.
The peace of mind this will bring to me with regard to wife and friends using the trucks is priceless! No worries about the dreaded
"Engine immobilised, enter EKA or press fob" message to them when far from me and the Nano (Also, always seems to happen on a dark and stormy night) :)
I believe this little board could keep a good number of very nice P-38s out of the Knackers yards!
Especially considering the difficulty / expense involved in getting replacement fobs now.
Oh, yes, I do not work for or with Simon. Please contact him if you have questions. He is now registered on this forum, so should respond.....He is "PsiDOC"
I shall continue to report on performance as needed, but so far? FLAMING BRILLIANT!!!!!
Cheers, Simon!!

Some observations on random EAS and locking issues. I am hoping Gilbert can offer a theory.....
My friend is still here and using Bolt to run errands with. (He is the one who had odd issues with EAS a couple of weeks ago......)
A few days ago, he was parked next to the Borrego, and when he unlocked Bolt via Fob, whilst talking on his CDMA phone
the Borrego promptly woke up, and lowered just the rear end to the bump stops. (Timer relay is out, and just a 4 pin in place.)
It has had zero issues with EAS prior to this, and none since.
2 days ago, he was walking past the Borrego, and his phone rang. The Borrego locked itself. No fobs involved, but the dogs
were in the car, and wife had just checked on them, thus BECM was awake. Wife had left keys in the ignition, so had to use Valet key
and then fob to re mobilise.
Last night in Bolt, he turned in the seat to get something from the back seat, sat on his phone and butt dialed it. The doors locked themselves!
I am aware that CDMA phones can affect EAS as I was helping a friend in Australia figure out why his would randomly go to access
height for no apparent reason. It turned out that it was his phone and it only occurred when he was in a fringe signal area, thus phone was putting out more power to connect. Around town, no issues.
Here, his CDMA phone has effected both the 02's but only when he is in a low signal area.
I have GSM phones and have not had issues, that I am aware of. My Mate in Oz also had no issues once he switched to an GSM phone??
I know the factory phones in these were CDMA in US, so I am curious as to what has changed, if anything?
Maybe the factory phones were to blame for some folks EAS isssues?
Any clues?

Well, it's not an oily bit, but it will leak as soon as the tape comes off.......
I loaned Bolt to a mate for a few days and is seems it does not like him.
First, it started a slight front end wobble, that turned into a 60 mph "Wobble- O- Death".
Found LF tyre is a bit wonky and the stabiliser is knackered....Easy fix.
Next, the EAS decided it was going to be in extended mode, blink and beep at him and refuse to lower.
This showed as an "Pressure switch failure" on Nano.....This it has done before, however clearing the fault
fixes it, and the switch, and pump are fine, with recent pump overhaul.
On the way back here, he was driving at highway speed, came to a slow bit, and when he released the brake pedel, he said it roared off like he had hit the gas. This was only once and only for a second, so I am thinking I need to lube the throttle cable.
Annnnnnd.....Last but certainly relating to the title of this post: The rear glass spontaneously shattered as he was driving a low speed on a smooth road.
All this in just 3 days!
He found some small sharp bits of gravel just inside the glass on the lower left corner. This was from some concrete blocks we hauled last year. Somehow a few grains went into the area between the glass and the plastic trim piece on the bottom of the lift hatch and worked their way into a tight enough spot to scratch the glass. bang!
Question is:
I know the glass is bonded, but is it tough to remove one from another hatch and re install. I can get a hatch from a breaker for 50 bucks, but it is a horrid green respray, so if I can swap the glass I will be happy.
I tried searching, but came up empty.

Having a pair of 2002s, I have the opportunity to observe some slight differences. One of which is a real mystery.....
On the Borrego,when I press the wash button for the windscreen, the wipers start, the water sprays for as long as hold the button.
Once I release the button, the wipers continue for a few seconds to clear the screen, then park.
On Bolt, when I do the same, it does the wipe wash however, when I release the button, the wipers immediately park!
No delayed off.......
Is this an Becm setting? I would assume they should both act the same?? I know, assuming anything
on a Rangie is a short path to madness!!

Thoughts? Observations? Adjustments?

Well,it is DSP, but that part works, when it works....
I had both radios in both 02's go out within 3 days of one another.
On Bolt, the unit would play for about 2 minutes in the morning, then started showing "Telephone" and going silent.
There is no phone and no cabling for one....Sometimes, once it cooled down, it might give me 2 more minutes of music, before
doing the same thing.
On the Borrego, it started showing me all of it's pixels on the display, A couple of days later the display went blank, then shortly thereafter it went silent.....
I tried swapping the heads from one to the other and also swapped in known working DSP amps.
The issues switched with the heads, so it was the heads.....
So, driving Bolt with the dead stereo, it would occasionally start "Popping" from the speakers.
I could effect this by hitting the brakes, or turning on the headlights. Points to an ground issue (Imagine that?!)
I did get in a known good head, and this worked well in Bolt, until I hit the brakes, then it shut off......
So, I believe the common earth point here is C0708-0 per Rave.......I cannot however find the section that tells me where this is?
I suspect it is the earth point under the radio? Little help Gilbert?
On another note, on the Borrego, it crackles when I turn on the ignition whether or not the head is plugged in or not!
It is not the DSP as I have swapped in both my good spares as well as the one from Bolt. Same result.
Kick panel plugs are clean and shiny......Where is the "Other plug" on the way to the DSP?
I know on the "other side" this crackling has been diagnosed as failing DSP. I do not believe this is so.
But with the DSP amp, who knows! I could be wrong;)
Hope to get some tunes going again soon!

Edit: Sorry, should have posted this in Oily Bits....No coffee yet.....Please feel free to shift it.

I seem to be getting the old "Baffle them with Bullshit" routine from Allisport!
They sent me a tank for a gems, which takes a cap that looks like it is from a Classic.....They sent no cap.
It has only 2 nipples, and no provision for over pressure blow off.
The last 8 weeks, I have been waiting for them to send their
"New Design" which is supposed to use the existing pressure cap rather than a bayonet style........
It seems they now are under the impression that "Some" P-38s were made with "Different caps".
YEA, Right!
Before this devolves into a trade war, can anyone recall seeing a P-38 with a plain screw on cap?
Here was his response this morning to my sending him pics of the tank they sent:
Comments welcome!

Hi Tom
After seeing the picture that you have sent it looks as if you have the new design which has replaced the original typr as shown in your first picture. The new design should fit the standard cap however we have since found that a few cars were built with a different cap which I imagine yours has. I can send a cap to you asap or we still have a few of the old parts so we could make an old style header tank for you but we don’t have any of the ALLISPORT caps so it would come with a standard bayonet cap.

Please let me know your preference so I can get this sorted for you.

Well, the good news is it is not DSP related. I still have 2 working DSP amps and 2 spares......
After having zero issues with the head units, I now have one on each car!
Now that it is cold and wet here (Getting down to freezing at night) I have found that the Borrego's stereo now comes up with "Telephone"
and refuses to do anything.
On Bolt, the stereo had a few hours where you could not turn it off, change stations, or volume. You could shift it to CD to shut it up.
Next day, dead as a doornail......... No display, no response to anything. 3 days later, it is back and after about 15 min of being able to control it, it is now on, and stuck.................On a horrible station!
Cannot change anything, at all. Sat nav still speaks loud and clear when appropriate.

Full disclosure: LH pollen filter cover has been giving me fits as i have tried several different types of closed cell
rubber to get a new seal on it. No luck yet. Thus, there has been water trickling down onto the LH side. I have not removed the kick panel yet.
On the Borrego, I am thinking back by the amp? Where does the "Telephone" signal come from? I am imagining a loose plug that is getting damp?

This is one of those Things that make you go "Hmmmmm...?"

Actually it is not making me go Hmmmmmmm? any more, it is now making me go "ARRGHHHhhhh!!!"
EAS on Bolt (02) has been flawless for a long time.
It has been cold (28-40F) lately, as well as wet.
Loaded up the wife and mutts and took a run to our favorite Fish & Chips shop. Made it about 2 of the 3 miles back and suddenly got an
EAS FAULT message on the dash. All lights on selector flashing, and extended height indicator on cluster.
No worries thinks I, Just plug in the trusty Nano, and sort this out.....Easy....... NOT easy......
The Nano initialises, I select EAS with engine running and all doors closed, select faults, the fault screen comes up, and the Nano promptly reboots itself!. I tried multiple times and it either reboots, or just shuts down when i try to read faults.
If I try to look at any of the other EAS screens, it simply freezes on that screen, and does not display any data.
I have to unplug the Nano to get it to reboot.
Nano reads engine, SRS, HVAC, Trans, etc no problem. Just throws a wobbly on the EAS.

As it is a dark and stormy night, I did not get under the bonnet, but as it was sudden onset, I am thinking water in connector, but which one?? and why would this cause the Nano to have such a dramatic shutdown?
Any thoughts?

Full disclosure.
I was chasing a slight weep at the Left rear of the engine on the white 02 "Bolt".....
As I still do not have my full tool set to do head gaskets as they are still in Hawaii due to the virus related lock downs and quarantines, and
the fact that I needed to shift about 600 miles North with all of the kit, and needed to use Bolt to tow with.....
And, as Bolt has 156k miles on the clock, and has been a perfect performer in all other ways......
I very timidly added 1/2 of the small blue bottle of K-Seal to the rad tank....I know: Imminent disaster!!! Overheating, plugged heater core, ruined radiator...Etc....Ad Nauseum....
But wait! The weep stopped!......Then it returned a week later but much less....So I added the second 2 oz of K-seal (The other 1/2 bottle)
I have now done 2 major round trips 1400 mi each, and towing heavy trailers up and down the mountains
on I-5 and doing 75-90 mph in 100+ degree heat with A/C blasting with not a drop of coolant spilled, and no overheating issues!
I was, and am still fully prepared to replace both the heater core (with Audi) and the rad, which is factory......
However, as it is not blocked, and has performed much better than I expected on the towing trips, I will say:
"The stuff seems to work as advertised"
I will admit to being very surprised and expect to find a deep smouldering crater in my parking space sometime soon, but until then,
I am content to let things simmer along as they are.
I felt I needed to post this as the various snake oil quick fix "Mechanic inna bottle" type things seem to get nothing but bad reviews.
Could be I got lucky? Heck, I will take luck any way I can!
Oh, I am sure that some of the stuff will really ruin a cooling system, but hey! Just saying......

Hey Marty,
I was perusing the litany of horrors over on the other side......
Found this nugget!:

"If you look in the BECM under SETTINGS -> OTHER If one of the software versions is showing as '153', then chances are it's still in alarm lockout, and if disarming it with the Nanocom isn't working, then it's BECM out time I'm afraid."

Had not run across this previously. Is this consistently the case, or only on later versions?
If this is a constant, it is a fantastic diagnostic to tell if it is in stage 1 lock out or stage 2 Defcon 5 lock down, and needs pulling out.
Could save a LOT of stuffing about trying to get something working.

Currently transiting to Oregon from California on the Waveney (My other car)...(OK Boat...)
Had a set of brushes in one of the CAV alternators get lunched. Probably a result of a bit of oxide on the slip ring
since we have been idle for a couple of years. In any case, I am after 4 sets of Lucas 6067-69 brushes. Just used my last spare set.
I found it is crossed to an AC-7 and these folks seem to have them in stock:

Question: Any thing good or bad to say about this outfit?
Any better place to get them?
Wood Auto has them, but may not post to USA.....

I have been messing about with a couple of spare compressors this afternoon and have noticed something possibly amiss.....
The exhaust valve makes sense with it's O ring seal and stiff backing plate, but the way both of the units I took apart were assembled, the
intake reed valve has a short piece under it which effectively prevents it from sealing on the flat surface of the head. This allows a lot of air to return to the intake side
on every compression stroke!
Thinking this was wrong, and as I have 2 on the bench, I assembled one as it was (and like I saw in several you tube videos) with the short intake reed below
and one with it in the logical place, above.....
Upon bench testing, the second method provided about 2x the airflow. To eliminate the variables of piston and motor, I swapped the order of assembly on both and re tested.
Same result. Short reed above and long reed on the bottom works much better......
Next, I will check the 2 pumps on the Borrego and Bolt.....

Well, today's job is putting all of the EAS bits back on the Borrego!
So far so good, I have determined the method used to place it in Manual mode, and reversed that damage.
It looks like they also unplugged the switches on the dash.....
Gotta tear into the centre console for that one. I do have it raising and lowering nicely and no leaks found so far.
NOW, I have been trying to figure out the initial reason they were convinced to castrate it in the first place......
Looks like (Per Nano) the RH front sensor reads 24 no matter its position. no deviation at all. So, a wiring issue.
Nano throws a fault for out of Range sensor. Pot tests good on the bench.
Question is: just how many potentially corroded plugs do those 3 wires go through on the way to the controller???
I cannot access Rave at this moment......If no feedback soon, I will attack the kick panel plugs on both sides.
I also cannot seem to log on to the Pub on my Android tablet in the shop. Seems to have something to do with Catptha?

Aloha, I have made the last 2 posts here in "Opening Time" as they were not electrical, or oily in nature......
Please advise if they should be elsewhere?

Yesterdays fun was replacing the right side blend motor. having read Rave, and the tips and tricks from the old .net site,
I went with the drop the glovebox, cut the duct, drill a hole for hidden screw method, and was able to get it changed.
I spliced the wires at the HVAC plug, for ease of access.
After installation, and taping the duct, I tested it for function, and found that during the process of shifting the ducts, I
dislodged the pipe that runs across to the RH side vent! No way to get it together from beneath!
SO, I thought to simply remove the Passenger side Air bag.....Looks easy with the 4 torx screws and a plug.........
Just gotta pop off the trim above the glove box.....Yea! Right!! Using Jos Guese's instructions from .net, I tried to gently but firmly get it to pop loose. It would not budge!.
In doing this however I noticed that the whole mess is a bit flexible, in that a padded airbag case is nestled in a padded dash.
Thus, the tip of the day for anyone trying to get the bloody airbag out is to use a thin, flat pry bar (Stanley Wonder Bar) and gently lever the bottom edge of the airbag up over the top of the trim strip. It actually pops out easily.
Make note of the clear lexan spacers on the lower front of the airbag to be sure they go back where they belong. Replacement is reverse
with the top edge going in first, then just gently prise the trim back to allow the 2 tabs on the airbag to drop in to the slot.
With airbag out, it was easy to fix the duct work although, I never worked out where the odd 100 mm wide U shaped convoluted spring clip came from???? It just fell out as soon as I started messing round with the ducts....
You also gain great access to the blend motors from above!
Note: Be careful when putting the air bag back that the glove box release cable is correctly routed, and not pinched under the forward left attachment point of the bracket.....If you do, you will need to drop the glove box, remove the airbag again, and shift the cable......Just saying.....
Easy 2 hour job........next time! 4 hours for the first go. I would have also done O rings at this time if I had thought to get some beforehand.

Aloha Gents,
Took a spin to the breakers today ("Essential" industry, thus open!) There is a 2001 beautiful dark green, EAS still holding air! and
a new headliner. I found a 4 inch blow out in the main Rad hose, so I think we know why it is at the knackers yard. Sad!
The owner obviously took good care of it other than the hoses......
I will probably return to grab all of the EAS stuff to put back under the Borrego.
Among the bits I scored another DSP amp (2 good spares now!) and all of the temp sensors for the AC
3 working blend motors.........Gotta get rid of the "chequebook!" on the HVAC But that's not what I need to know.

My windscreen has a slowly creeping crack that was just under the rear view mirror mount when I bought Bolt, and has now crept
down about 6 inches.....Also a stone chip on the passengers side, about 50% of the wires
do not heat.... I think it will be time to replace it soon.
The 2001 at the breakers has an pristine windscreen that can be had for $40 bucks.....I just need to remove it intact.
I have seen wire saws in use in the past, but have never tried them out.
I am assuming it is simply glued in with some really good snot?
Any clips or fastenings I should have in hand before starting?
Any words of wisdom? advice? If I break it trying to remove it, I will not be charged......What could possibly go wrong?
I will probably enlist the help of a proper glass fitter to re install it......Maybe......

I am in the midst of doing diffs, T-case, and engine services.
I noticed ~after, of course~ that I was sold 75-140 full syn gear oil, and manual calls for 75-90........
155k miles on the beastie, will there be any issue with the wider viscosity range gear oil?
Did a search, and found no answers......(Did not even bother trying on the dark side!)

Looking for some consensus on new shockers for Bolt.
I finally traced a strange thumping noise to LF and RR shocks having worn bushes.
As they are probably original, and I have 155k on it now, I may as well replace all 4.
I have Arnott Gen IIs on it, so no extra height.
What do we like these days for shocks?

Getting ready to place the factory roof rack on the Borrego, and noticed the rubber gaskets are a bit knackered.
I have had a look and cannot seem to find any for sale.......nor the part number for that matter.
Any ideas?

I have been busy the last couple of days on interior stuff.
Got a very nicely re done headliner out of an 98 at the breakers (26 Bucks!), and today, swapped it into Bolt.
I have wondered over the years just what the 3 VERY heavy duty welded steel brackets are which attach at the edge of the rear opening up at the top lip.
They have nice colour matched covers with a slot for whatever goes there.
I have never seen these on another P-38. and was debating whether to punch in the 6 additional holes to re attach them.
In the end, I installed them as they really help hold up the back edge of the headliner.
So, why are they there? What accessory was so heavy it needed these 3 serious brackets to hold it up? Mini crane?
I cannot attach a photo at present as camera is elsewhere.....

I just got back from the breakers with a radio, dsp, climate control, and a Gps head unit. A good haul.
The radio is from an 02, and is for a mate in Hawaii.
I have the vin from the donor car, so what is the best way to get the code?
I seem to recall a thread about this on .net, but cannot find it now.