Next on the list of minor annoyances is the Cruise control on the 02...
It was fine, then just stopped.
The light on the switch is off, however, I suspect that is a bad bulb.
I do have difficulty connecting to Hella CC with Nano, but when it eventually does, I get to check all functions.
If the dash switch is not pressed, I cannot ever connect, and if I switch dash off whilst reading data, it stops, so I think switch is OK
Speed input valid, and follows actual speed whilst driving.
Brake light shows ON when pressed.
Wheel buttons show proper response.
Vacuum lines are good, and I swapped in a known good vac pump/ diaphragm module.
Swapped in the ECU from the 99, which is the same part number. No difference.
What I cannot get to change is the "Brake / Clutch switch" status. It stays reporting "Pressed" no mater how I manipulate the
CC switch on the pedal.
So, I have "Cruise Status" DISABLED showing on line one of the inputs screen.
Cruise is "SET" in Becm settings
Anything else to check? I will remove cruise control brake switch next and test on the bench.
As an aside, Oddly, the CC on the 99 is duff as well at the moment. Nano reads same for it as well. Dash switch on 99 does light up.
It is as difficult to connect to with the Nano as the 02.
The reason for this question is that I am going to be driving from Oregon to Southern California next week and planning to stop at as many breakers as I can that have P38s......
So far, 2. A 96 and a 98. And that's from 21 breakers!! Getting scarce!
I am after a differential for the front axle of my 02. ( And a handful of other odds and sods)
Don't need it yet, but wanted to get one as there are fewer and fewer P38s coming up in breakers yards.
So, is a 4.6 1998 differential a 4 pin and if I have a choice, would a front axle be in better condition than the rear?
Any other parts I should have on the shelf? I'm thinking transfer case?
With any kind of luck, I will be able to power up the becm and use nano to pull up the mileage.. I'm good with anything under 150k miles.
Cheers!
As the title says. How the heck can a blend motor short to positive when it is mounted onto a pcb
which is encased in plastic, then screwed to a plastic box?
I have had an entertaining day chasing my Right hand blend motor shorted to ground issue.....
Removed, tested, cleaned, replaced. Same error.
Tried 3 different, known good HVAC heads. Same problem.
Swapped in a used replacement. Problem went away! Only to reappear as "Potentiometer feedback circuit failed" (or something like that)
Put in a 3rd B/M after testing, cleaning, and re testing. This one faulted with Motor shorted to positive.
Took the motor out of the one with Pot failed error, and put it in the one with Motor shorted issue.
Got motor shorted error on this one.
I am thinking now that the caps on the B/M PCB are the issue as they will die with age.
How else could stray current trigger a fault?
Tomorrows job will be to remove these caps and see what is happening.
I am sure they are there to filter the noise from the brushed motor, Worth a try...
I will source replacements and try that if no joy.
If Marty was around, I am sure he would have a better plan.
I am open to suggestions.
I will report back tomorrow......
Hey Gilbert,
When are gonna get us a Frankenstein ai for the Pub?
I have not laughed at a forum post from the dark side for a long time!
Thanks!!
On the other hand, be afraid, be VERY afraid..........
For those who don't lurk on the dark side, I am referring to this:
Got a new one on the '99
Last night, I went for a drive and within about 30 seconds of setting out, with lights on, I got 3 messages:
RH Tail Bulb out, LH Tail Bulb out, License plate lamp bulb out.
Upon inspection, all 3 lights were merrily shining away. Shut off and upon re starting, got the same thing.
I have checked RAVE thinking it was possibly an earth issue. Found that they do not share a common Earth point, so non starter there.
Any clues as to where I look from here?
Having fixed the issues on the RT side with distribution motor, I have turned my attention to the LH side distribution flap motor.
Nano shows error as "Motor short circuit to 12 volt positive"
The motor moves the flap just fine from recirc to fresh.
I have unplugged the motor and substituted in a blend motor with a good drive. Works fine. Same error.
I found the 2 wires at the HVAC head unit plug and snipped them and attached motor directly to the plug.
Same error.
I have swapped in 2 different known good, tested working head units and same error.
What am I missing? Nothing in that circuit is shorted to positive anywhere???!
Well, it's not so much an "Issue" as a real boneheaded maneuver.
I was replacing the diversion blend motor on the RH side of my LH drive '99. went well, and no more checkbook.
Having done the heater core on my 02, I was just breezing away putting everything back together, because I knew what I was about!
Replaced glove box fascia, having smoothly clipped in the cable release cassette........Without checking to be sure it was engaged....OOPs
Put in hinge fasteners and attempted to open the glovebox. Yea, Right! Latched, and the cable is not engaged.
So, what is the approved procedure for extricating myself from this??? Non destructively preferred.
I suppose it is the same as if the cable broke at the latch??
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Cheers!!
Edit...An hour later......
Had something to eat (And Drink!) and had another look.
I am guessing that if I use my super shallow ratcheting screwdriver, I will be able to remove at least the screws along the top of the
piece that holds the top in. Then attempt to either re seat the cassette or jigger the release with picks?
Fortunately, the aforementioned ratchet driver is in the tool kit on boat, so my only option tonight is another G&T.....
Any refinements cheerfully welcome!
1999 HSK, Petrol
I had been having issues with a "FAULTY FUEL SENDER" indication on the message center display accompanied by fuel needle plunging
to zero and low fuel indicator light being illuminated.
This only happened after a fill up, so full tank. It got good when fuel was below 3/4 tank and was correct to empty.
I assumed that it was a sender with a worn track at the top end, so I swapped in a fully tested, known good fuel pump and sender assembly.
This seemed to fix the issue straight away! The old sender indeed had bad sections on the track at the top end, and about the 3/4 mark.
Bench testing with ohm meter confirmed this.
Now, however, I am getting a "FUEL GAUGE FAULT" indication on the message center, along with the needle plunge and low fuel light indication.
When ignition is switched on, the gauge reads correctly. after starting, and idling a few seconds it faults out. I noticed that a few times when it stayed accurate
for a bit, that pressing the brake would fault it out (Bad earth somewhere?)
Plugged in Nano, and looked at fuel sender values. Got a 36 and this dropped to a 26 when brake was pressed.........And went as low as 8.
I cannot seem to find my guide to the Nano that indicates what these readings should be?
Comparing to my 2002, the fuel sender readings on it stay solid at 69 when I press brake....(It has less fuel, so I would expect different number)
Any hot tips as to where to start looking? I have confirmed earths under the bonnet are good, so I suppose it's under the dash next.
Aloha,
My PC that runs RAVE in the shed is on loan......
Does anyone have a handy list of the (7, I believe) wires on the RH 2 plugs on the controller that need to have B+ and earth connected
to enable testing of the unit on the bench?
I have a couple of plugs to use for the test rig.
Going to overhaul 5 HVAC controllers and it would be very nice to be able to check out bulbs and display on the bench.
Aloha,
Over the years I have seen some nice and not so nice P-38s at wrecking yards.
The one thing the breakers don't know is the mileage of the Rangies.
If you happen to have a Nanocom and a suitable battery, you can not only determine the mileage, but also test the stereo / amps
and unlock the doors, tailgate, and lift hatch without destroying anything. And without the key.
I recently had amazing luck reading the mileage on an 99 that had the dashboard and all the electrics therin
removed by what appeared to be a dull shark! A total shambles.
As I wanted the rear diff, I wanted the mileage, so using an 18v Makita cordless tool battery and a set of leads and clips to fit,
I gave it a try. To my astonishment, it lit up and I was able to read the information.
Just clip an 12-18v battery to the battery leads and fingers crossed, it will play!
I have tracked down an noise I have been hearing lately to the rear axle.
Upon draining the oil from the rear diff, I found it to be the color and consistency of milk chocolate pudding.
Not a good look for gear oil. Obviously water got in there, which is a real mystery to me as I have not been wading at all
since the last time i serviced the rear end. Vent tube is in place and routed properly as well
Be that as it may, I believe the diff to be stuffed!
I was able to get a decent used diff from the local breakers with 174k miles on it.
Rather than just drop it in, I was planning to replace the outer bearings as well since they share the nice wet lube oil......
Question is, How are the bearings best removed? Rave does not seem to get into the actual rear axle other than R&R diff assy.
Are they as difficult to press in and out as the fronts?
Any hints and tricks for doing this greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Tom
Aloha,
I have been doing battle with EAS gremlins.
Rt front would randomly go down sometimes in 15 min, sometimes not at all. For days.
Figured it as time to rebuild the valve block, so I got the kit and pulled one from my shelf, and did a clean rebuild.
Same issue. Exactly.
I had already done the soapy water test on the bag, but as I had a good spare, I replaced it.
Found that the old one, when inflated and soaped on the bench was a sieve!
Well, good. Job done. Not!
This one went down as well.
Grabbed my other spare front bag and Tested at 50 PSI for 4 days and no leaks on the bench.
Put it in. Same issue.
Had to go see the folks so did a 2500 mile round trip down south.
Problem persisted, but made the trip just fine.
As these were 14 year old Arnotts Gen II I contacted them and they sent me a pair of gen III bags under warranty as they no
longer make Gen II. They honored the fact that when I bought them in 2010, the warranty was unconditional.
Nice new bags for the front. Billet aluminum instead of plastic for the base. FREE!
Put them on, and guess what? Same issue.
SO, I changed the solenoid valve for the RT front bag for another good spare. Problem solved!
New issue, and the real reason for the post is that when the compressor shuts off, and I stop the engine, I hear a LOT of air hissing from the exhaust silencer. Not from the bags, from the tank. Let it sit overnight and it stayed up, but tank was empty.
Swapped the diaphragm valve and same issue.
Gotta be coming from the diaphragm I guess, but cannot see how it is getting there with the system off. Disc looked fine when I did
the rebuild, and it was not leaking like this prior to my trip
I have been staring at Paul P-38's diagrams for a while and am now cross eyed.
Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
Going to pull out the block again and replace the diaphragm, I guess.
Well, I seem to have pretty much run through all of the possible combinations of parts from 4 compressors to make good ones....
My 2 Frankenstein units are going OK, but I don't trust the stator on one of them.
So, I am going to bite the bullet and buy at least one new unit.
What is the latest bestest compressor to buy? Thomas 327 and retrofit? Viair? which one?
OEM Dunlop branded??
Next question is from where? Anyone got a lead on good pricing?
Rimmer seems to have the lowest on Dunlop even with shipping.....
Any advice is, as always, greatly appreciated!
The EAS Compressor on the wife's 99 was reported to be making a lot of noise, and indeed it was....
So, I swapped in a rebuilt pump, and thought problem solved.
New pump does the same thing.
It seems like the pressure switch is not operating and the compressor is jumping around on its mounts and struggling.
Tried sending it to access, then back to extended height, and compressor seemed happier. For a few minutes.
One of the valves is ticking constantly once it gets to height. Wife took mine, and nano is in it, so just guessing right now.
I have a spare valve body, so will swap it out. See if the issue changes.
Well, the good news is I finally found the really small leak in my brake system that had me topping up the fluid about every 10,000 miles.
The bad news is that I found it is the PCRV that's bolted onto the fender below the fluid reservoir. The source of the leak became obvious yesterday when it became a larger leak!
Apparently, the design is such that it will slowly extrude the O ring seal inside causing fluid to escape.
Of course, I found this as I am preparing for a 2500 mile trip South for Christmas next week......
The new part is on order, but will probably not arrive in time, so the question is:
Can this be repaired?
Seems like if it has an O ring that has an issue, it can be rebuilt?
Anyone done this? Know what the O ring size is??
Cheers.
This issue has been going on for some time now, and I am at a loss as to whats going on!
Both my '99 and '02 do the same thing.
When the compressors are running, they "short cycle". By this, I mean they turn on and off in bursts of 15 seconds to a couple of minutes.
Looking at the compressor state on Nano, it shows compressor as "ON", and thermal switch as "NORMAL". It will do this from
stone cold, so not a thermal issue.....
I have several good compressors here, and they all do the same thing, so not the compressors.
The compressor relay is new, and it does cycle on and off with the compressor, so it is getting a signal to switch on and off.
If I wait a few minutes, the system will get up to pressure and the pressure switch will change state shutting off the compressor as it should.
I am looking at the EAS ECU, and I suppose the MosFet driving the relay is possibly thinking it is overcurrent and folding back the output? Looks like pin 8 from the ECU has that signal....
This is no major deal except that when the missus is doing short trips to the shops, it will eventually come up with an "Unknown Fault"
and go to extended height whilst flashing all 4 lights on the EAS switch. Probably finally runs out of air??
While I am at it, has anyone come up with an answer from Colin and his merry men about why the Nano displays an EAS fault as "Unknown"??? It can clear it fine, but not knowing why it faulted does not assist in troubleshooting!. Annoying, at best!
I have an odd continuing problem with the EAS on the HSK.
The system works flawlessly, however, the compressor cycles on and off frequently.
Sometimes it is as little as a few seconds, sometimes it is on for minutes.
Nano reports that the compressor is indeed being commanded to switch on and off each time it does so.
Pressure switch remains at "Open" status and thermal switch reports as "Normal"
This condition persists whether it is first thing in the morning and all is cold, or after a long hot drive. Same behavior
Any ideas?
I have ordered a pump rebuild kit just in case, but I believe the compressor is fine.
Have a spare pressure switch as well, but as Nano reports that the switch state is unchanged, yet
commands the compressor on and off, I don't see that as probable cause..
I am baffled.
I was just getting a few old fobs I have accumulated over the years ready to send off to have their codes read.
The plan being to input a known fob code into the HSK's Becm and see if I can get a working fob for it.....
Going through the fob bin, I found I had an extra fob for Bolt making 3......The one in the bin said it was key 1.
This got me thinking I could test my theory before sending a parcel to the UK......
I have read somewhere that you can only change the first code number (not correct) so, I went into Bolt's (unlocked) Becm and read the 3 stored codes. The first one happened to be 64, so I went to the HSK to input that into it's (also Unlocked) Becm. I found that the first number in the HSKs Becm was already 64......Caused me to recall I had tried this about 2 years ago without success.....
However, being a bit tenacious about this sort of thing, and seeing as I had no working fob for the HSK, I went ahead and loaded all 3 codes from Bolt into the HSK....What could possibly go wrong??
In this case, nothing went wrong, and the Becm accepted all 3 codes. Figuring one had to be correct, I tried to sync the fob.....
It WORKED!!.
I pulled the key from the non working fob that came with the HSK and inserted it into the now working fob.
As this is the Missus' daily driver, I am now a hero in her books!
I am going to send the other 2 fobs off to be read as they work, but I have no way of getting the codes for them.
This means, of course that if you have a fob on the correct band, a Nano or equivalent, an unlocked Becm, and a way to get the fob code, you can very easily make any fob work! Even the ones that they sell on sleezebay!!
Now for a large celebratory Rum!
Cheers!
This started on a dark and stormy night last Christmas......
I was driving home from California on the Coast Highway so as to avoid a large Sierra snow storm on highway 5.
the coast route had snow and ice as well, and as soon as I hit it, I got ABS and TC lights on! Not sliding or braking, so coincidence????
Pulled over, cycled ignition, and issue went away for about 10 miles, then on again.
Pulled off again, attached Nano, and looked for faults. None reported for brake system??
So, as it was 3am and I had been driving for 14 hours, I drove on.
Oddly, the ABS and TC seemed to be actually working...
For the last year, I have looked into the problem a couple of times, and again, no faults are ever reported by Nano.
When you turn on the ignition, and without starting the engine all 3 amigos go on.
After about 15 seconds, the Brake light goes off, and the message center beeps telling me I have an ABS failure.
Once I start the engine, and move the vehicle a small distance, (the usual distance that is needed to extinguish
the TC and ABS lights) the message center tells me I have Traction Control Failure.
I have 2 2002s here, and a 1999, so I compared readings from the Nano.
I get 2.33 to 2.35 volts on all sensors on all 3 and the nano says I am doing 1.7kph at a standstill.
Since this is an issue of the system failing at self test and before even starting the engine, and since all initial
readings for all 3 vehicles are virtually identical, I thought possibly it was an issue with the ABS ECU. So,
I pulled the working ECU from the 02 Borrego, and placed it in Bolt.
The issue went away for about 100 yards, then came back with the same message center warnings.
Anyone have any ideas so far??
Now, it gets stranger......I took the known good ABS ECU back out and installed it back in the Borrego.
The Borrego now has the SAME SYMPTOMS!!!!!
Identical behaviour when I switch on ignition.
Installing the ECU in Bolt for 5 minutes seems to have affected it. Again, no errors logged to be read by Nano!
Now I have 2 02s with the same issue. One that started on the road, and the other started in the shed by swapping in the ECU to Bolt.
Can anyone think just what is going on here, because I am stumped!
I hesitate to try the ECU from the 99, because it works...... but may take the Borrego ECU and try it the 99 to see if the problem shifts as expected........
Cheers,
Tom
Does anyone know if it is possible to change any of the 3 fob codes on an unlocked Becm using a Nano?
Cheers
Tom