I use the simpler grom unit without blue tooth and just put my music on a USB stick, or plug my phone into the grom line in.
You can also use a multi pole toggle switch, relay or rotary switch to select between the grom and the CD player. I have Dsp and sat nav, and it all works just fine. Sound is amazing.
I have also been chatting with David over on the dark side.....(I am still boycotting it's forum)
As for competent RR mechanics in Hawaii? Nope! there are none. Main Dealer in Honolulu is worse!
Over the 30 years I lived there, I found only one competent, honest mechanic..... And he would not touch a P-38
(Between my Austin Champs, and the several Rangies I have had, I have learned much, and fear no machine!)
It just so happens I will be in Hawaii tomorrow with Nano to help a mate on the Big Island, so sadly, 400 miles of water away from David.
I am leaning towards fuse box as when battery is changed, the red cable does get tugged a bit, so a crumbly box could play up.
Its sad that a dealer would send out a truck to Hawaii that is so knackered!
Zero parts availability, and as far as I am aware, no competent indies. A bad combo for RR ownership.
Oh, Btw, Gilbert, when shipping to and from Hawaii, you cannot disconnect the battery as they drive them on and off the boat.
Arriving with a dead battery is therefore down to the seller putting in a crap old one, or of course, any number of other niggles
that kill P-38 batteries
Hey, David, we still need to know if Gems or Bosch........
It would seem that our Honolulu friend has gone dark?
Ironically, I was sitting within probably 10 miles of said Rangie whilst transiting from Honolulu to Kona.
Even had the nano in my pack.
I really wish could have laid my hands on this one to see just what was up! With only an hour layover, that, alas was not in the cards.
The good news is I saw no evidence of fireballs, pillers of smoke etc.........With luck, he is checking fuel pressure and will get back to us.
That is just sooooo black, it hurts! Love it!
Quick question ......... and this seems a good thread to use....
I was just over in Hawaii helping a mate with his fleet of 4 Rangies all of which have interesting issues.
He has a 97 that has been "Rode hard and put away wet" many times, but is complete and has air system. Best ride as all others have coils.
It does not beep or show flashing gears when shifting to low, and it only indicates an H or L on the message centre. Odd?
It also has amber upper lenses in the back.....I have only ever seen clear or grey tinted upper lenses....? What's with that?
Possibly Canadian spec?....
I suspect then that the rear lenses have been changed as all of the Rangies I have owned, or seen on the road or at the breakers yards have had clear lenses and amber bulbs. Must be a DOT thing?
As this truck has also been re sprayed, they must have bought Canadidian lenses for it as well?
As for shift? Yep, goes into Low and back no issues, just very little fuss. No flashing lights, no beep, and just a clunk and a single letter indication of H or L on the dash.
Consistently inconsistent! That's the true Range Rover tradition!
Happy Holidays all!
Heading out the door for another 1500 mile R/T in our trusty Bolt to So Cal for Family madness..........
If you've only ever owned post 99 cars then they will all have had the clear/grey lenses. A lot of people swap the earlier ones for the later ones as they assume they look better. My 96 Ascot has had them swapped so it would have originally had the amber lenses but now has the later ones.
I have had 95, 2x97,99, and 2x02 and all pre 99 had clear, whilst the 99 and 02s have light grey smoked lenses.
Over the years, I have hunted a few replacements at the breakers and have not seen amber till this one.....
Like to think I am moderately observant, so this one is bugging me. What does the mighty Microcat have to say for part numbers?
Happy New Year!!
Sincerely wishing all the best to you all from the Sacramento Delta!
New EBC Stage 4 Rotors for the front on Bolt. (Standard disks for the rear)
For some bizzare reason, these were listed on Amazon for $39.95 with free shipping......One set left......
I thought it sounded too good to be true, and ordered them anyway along with some green EBC pads.......WCPGW?
They showed up 3 days early and are as advertised! Looked to buy about 6 more sets for friends, only to find they are now $305.24!
I had a slightly warped LF rotor. These new disks and pads are terrific!
Nice to win one occasionallly!
REALLY nice that it is still possible to get brake parts that are made in UK or USA. NOT CHINA!
Now, how to address the very slight weep of coolant that is coming from the left rear of the engine (probably head gasket)...sighhhhhhh
PS: How long and at what temperature do you bake your filters? Mine always come out tough no matter how I cook them! (HP sauce works well as a topping)
Annnnd on to the Borrego.......
I re sprayed the "Pattern baldness" on the roof either side of the sun roof. Looks great again. The rest of the paint is in good nick.
I had re finished an factory bull bar obtained for the princely sum of 25 bucks from the breakers by cleaning and spraying with
flexible Polyurethane "Bed Liner" in a rattle can. Good as new.
This was installed on the freshly sprayed bumper and on the Borrego.......Then un installed, disassembled to insert the 2 friggin
spacers!!!!! (I know better too!). Back together, and it looks really nice!
Tomorrow, the factory roof rack goes on!
Kinda hate to sell the Borrego, as it is a super clean example of it's type. (If some clod had not removed the EAS it would be perfect!)
Oh well, Wife says one or the other of the 02's goes. (And Bolt stays. End argument!) Besides, now with the soon to be restored
1950 Willys Jeep in the barn, it's a bit tight.....
I will settle for Unicorn Poop if I can find it!
Getting ready to place the factory roof rack on the Borrego, and noticed the rubber gaskets are a bit knackered.
I have had a look and cannot seem to find any for sale.......nor the part number for that matter.
I had seen that video, thanks for posting it here though. I love his true indignation about the low quality of the Fram.
Used to use only Fram on my cars as they had the correct hype, and that is what dear 'ol dad used! (Turns out, crap product to go with it!)
Having always used Wix for any marine diesels I have been in charge of, I gravitated to Wix for my trucks and diesel vans as well.
A good friend, and great engine guy told me to use "The best filter you can buy and, a good Dinosaur based oil" a long time ago. so that's what I have been doing.
He uses only the Napa Gold or Bosch filters.
For the last 25 years, I have been running Delo 400 15w-40 in the Cats (On the boat) as well as all my vehicles and generators, petrol and diesel
with no problems.
I have not switched over to full synthetic oils on the Rangies as I have had issues with it sneaking past main seals on a goodly number of
stationary power plant diesels. Any issues found by others?
I was afraid that this would be the case.
Over here, it is quite the opposite.
We see lots of factory racks and very few of the Safety designs and others as they just are not sold by anyone here.
In Oz, you are spoilt for choice as those blokes use roof racks! I have a serious basket on the 85 and have used it extensively whilst camping
in the Bush. (Sadly, many of our fave spots are getting a fiery makeover at present......
I like the minimalist, well fitted look of the factory racks, but second the thoughts on their slightly curved aspect.
The solution I found was to use a 4 in dia ethyfoam "Pool Noodle" cut into 1 ft lengths and slit up one side.
These effectively clamp over the side bars and allow large flat things to ride very securely.
You can get a Yakima system here with flat bars for like 850.00 Yikes!
Oh, I got my first rack several years ago off eBay for 250 bucks, with freight to Hawaii.
Just recently got a like new one from the breakers for $27.00 (Got a beautiful bull bar for 35 bucks from the same car!)
Now to find some quality rubber sheet to make up some new fitted rubbers............
Yakima racks were priced in Hawaii, where everything co$t$ a bunch more.
-22??! I have a theory about folks that live where it gets that cold.......
Gotta be in a witness protection program of some sort, otherwise......Why would you do such a thing voluntarily?
(This from someone who has lived the better part of their years in Hawaii and is now "suffering" in 10C weather. Yea, I'm a wimp!)
Thanks for the tips!
I have a factory rack for each of mine, however, a mate, who is still in Hawaii wants something a
bit beefier than factory, so I am looking for parts for him as well.
Hoping that something for him will show up at a local wrecking yard......
Just tried a post. As of right now, seems to be instant for me.
In the last few weeks, there have been several times I have seen that the last post shown on the right side, is not the last post on the thread. Quite a
delay for some to show up. Possibly there is a "White list" and all others need to be moderated?
I have noticed that over the last 6 months or so, that TH has gone from very present to very vaguely present, with somewhat incoherent posts, to virtually non existent.
As much as he can tend to be a bit "Heavy handed" when he perceives he has been provoked, I do hope he is ok?
Well, seeing as the only thing worse than an undercharged ac system, which is merely annoying, is an Overcharged one.......
You may well do yourself a favor by letting a bit more out.
The primary issue with overfilling is having liquid refrigerant on the suction side of the system. This will cause compressor "Slugging" which is when the compressor sucks up liquid, which, of course is a bit tough to compress........it can cause a pretty catastrophic failure of the compressor.
The field method of checking this without guages is to look for the suction line (Fat one on the compressor) to be sweating, or worse, frosted up to the compressor.
In normal operation it will be relatively cool to the touch, but not so cold as to give you frostbite! Actually, as it is not jacketed, you can follow the suction line as far back as possible and at no point should it be frosty. If this is happening with yours, let a bit of gas out at a time until, with it on High with doors and windows closed, you no longer get frost, or if it is dry out (Low humidity), it should never be uncomfortable to hold for an extended time at any exposed portion.
Good to see Toadie is still with us!
Odd sort of issue 'tho.
They were going to pump nitrogen into a gassed system to pressure test it??? Yikes!
When the car is off, the high and low sides will equalise, and as long as there is any liquid R-134 in the system, it will show the same pressure.
Pressure will be vary, and is determined by ambient temp.
As soon as the system is active, it will suck the vapor through the compressor, and condenser will cool it into liquid, then through the expansion valve in the
evaporator, and cold happens! This is when the high side versus low side pressures will tell you if additional gas is needed.
If there is not enough gas in the system, things will still work, but not as well. When it gets down too low, the trinary switch kills the
power to the compressor so as not to damage it. Thus, when things nudge above 35 or so, it just blows coolish air at you as it is short cycling.
Here in the US of A, we are still allowed to re gas our own vehicles. In OZ, they practically panicked and called the cops when I inquired about purchasing a can of R-134.....
I am guessing that over there in Borris land, like OZ you are not allowed to do your own..........Possibly after Brexit? ;)
Not really sure just what dry nitrogen would do in the system being rather stable temp wise, but it probably does not help.
I used to put these things on all the systems I built waaaaayyyy back when. They take all of the guess work out of AC charging as you simply run the system and keep on adding small sips of gas till the liquid stream is bubble free. As a bonus, it will show moisture in the system.
In olden times, virtually all US cars had a sight glass on the top of the drier. No more, alas.
I may just add one of these buggers to mine when I get my service kit where I am.
I even found an Eurocentric link for you all!
Oh, yea, I have played with R-600 (Dry Isobutane) and plain old LPG as R-134 replacements.(Use a LOT less) They actually outperform the Dupont patented, legislated products!
Disclaimer: Do not try this at home, I used a disposable car for the testing...........And it is still just fine 13 years on............