You are entirely right, Gilbert!
Those are some odd looking ends there.
I was tired when I found them, so not being critical enough....
Looking at the offerings from your side of the ditch this morning.

I know, Kinda interesting, price is certainly right as long as they are not counterfeit.......

Well,
An search has turned up these from AMK.......Germany? (sorry for the long Url)
Any thoughts on quality??
Cheers,
Tom
https://www.ebay.com/itm/800072353624?fits=Year%3A2000%7CModel%3ARange+Rover&_skw=2000+range+rover+Dunlop+air+springs&itmmeta=01KTAYEYMSTBYJDDFCKT7SW8PQ&hash=itemba48074758:g:oQoAAeSw1rlqFV~S&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xD%2BQBwViFMlSAdnAhOkS1bjFDRYbZ3kutnTIRFbd6h7HsXh1yoU1pEQXrqJ1pgEaKbelv8aezRQTmUrGn8bVfyYd6mYn7YgSYQMFjLGlZtBjzg2tfXTQM8OIxmQX041FLBXkJVYChZuY%2BU64BsOQ1sQZsO9Tu8kbEBJZjT5YFFJ2IkdWp0apI0hPlwwUGYmi9KrICcX2y8it8NK8mQXdqWiqeC4jjrlS1m%2FIiUsgAFELkduNJlgW0Hc82wrsWig7UB73OaPV0igsu%2FxLYor%2FTnVwSJl60zWV6u9t8O3c0vqixQtsh6lrI7gaalsvuzztFI%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8Dqu97SZw

If the wire in question runs through the rh kick panel plug, as I think it does, it's probably
A corroded connection there. These can be intermittently weak, as well as go/ no go.
Also look under the sill plate as a slight nick in the wiring loom can lead to a corroded wire there.
You may have to unwind the lousy tape from the loom to isolate the wire you need.
As you will have to get in there to run a new wire it's not a wasted step.
Virtually every plug I have seen behind either kick panel has had some corrosion.

Thanks Gilbert,
As far as you know,
Are any of these better than the others as far as shipping to the US?

I'm knocking off jobs on the Borrego currently.
Did the u joints and new rotors and pads all around. Also new shoes for the parking brake.
Whilst lying comfortably under the beastie, I had to notice that there are lots of little cracks in the air bags.
Not leaking yet, but as I am going for reliability on this one, a set of quality Dunlop bags is in the near future.
It's currently on arnotts, so.......
Where's the best place to buy Dunlop bags lately?
Cheers!

I have pretty much given up on any of the fan speed controllers I have been able to buy from sleezebay
Therefore, I will attempt a repair. Super simple circuit, so the failure has to be the transistors.
I have tried this previously and used MJ11015 power transistors, Didn't work......Could have been faulty parts??
I have another genuine Valeo unit (Dead) that appears to have FW2602541 transistors.
This seems to be a bad number, and due to corrosion on the Transistors, I am not dead sure I have it right.....
So, anyone with a live or dead controller that can get me the number on the transistors, I will be grateful, as I need a new fan
for the Borrego......
Cheers,
Tom
Edit:
Looks like it was originally FW20625A1 (not 41)
Further research says that the MJ11015 would be a spiffy replacement. As I have tried these, I am not so sure.
I will order the correct part, which is only available from China, and another set of the 11015 cans, and see if I have any success!
Still, any different part numbers on known working controllers will be helpful.

As these things are Darlington transistors, it is now no surprise that they spontaneously short circuit!
When we were using Darlingtons in power Inverters, they would short and catch fire!!

The diagrams were very helpful, thanks again!
They helped me get the CDL going, the intermittent wipers and the delay dome lights going again.
The high beam circuit was fine but the multi contact switch was full of fine red bull dust which I have been collecting for 24 years!
Flushed it out and they are good as new.
It is amazing to me that things like the switch were built so well and made to be serviced.
Other than the vacuum pump on the TDI 300 packing in it is running like a Swiss watch!
Had to drive 2000k with out power brakes! Almost all on B and C roads and virtually no traffic.
Just LOTS of suicidal Roos!!!
Getting into Brisbane was a real treat tho. Heavy fast traffic!
Got the new pump yesterday, and what a difference! I now know it was dying for years.
Also interesting to see how many details from the Classic made it to the P38!
Once again, thank you for the information.
Cheers,
Tom

Thanks for the fast reply!
I suspect the stalk as well, but as it is a sudden onset problem, it could be a wiring issue.
Nice to have a schematic for it!
Could be a relay maybe?
25 years ago, when I bought it, I added driving lights to the high beam circuit, so possibly
Some of my wiring has failed. She's done a lot of very hard off-road driving since then!
It's under the dash time tomorrow..... How hard could it be? It's not like it's a P38 or something!

Aloha, and G'day from the antipodes.
I am currently here having fun driving Austin Champs and working on my 85 Classic.
Got the new Ashcroft R380 gearbox in just fine. Now, I have an issue with my high beam headlights.
They work when I flick the stalk, but not when I move it forward to keep them on.
Looking for a wiring diagram for the lighting circuit.
Anything out there?
Cheers!
Tom

Is there a chance that someone has swapped the timer relay for a standard relay?
That would stop communication.

Just because you don't think any hoses have actually come off, it's good odds the ends have split are good.
Particularly the black tube from the brake pedal to the tee.
Check the end at the tee for splitting.
Cut off 25mm and try it again.

Intermittent whinging is not a bad bulb, it's more likely a dirty and/ or loose socket.
You need to give the socket a good clean up anyway or the same thing will happen.
I like a fiberglass "scratch pen" for contact burnishing.
Why not avoid the added cost and aggravation of trying to find a chinesium replacement and
Get a new set of quality bulbs. They seem to last about 20 years, so........?
The previous owner of my HSK changed out all the bulbs he could reach with " high quality LEDs"
I battled them for a year, then binned the lot! No issues with the incandescent replacements.

Ahhhh, Thank you!
I had not mentioned that the old Win7 machine in my shop is down at the moment, so no Rave......
That makes complete sense. I will have a poke at the plugs again.
Solder and heatshrink treatment is on the board, but I am confirming all of the major mechanical and electrical functionality before I dig into the fiddly stuff.
So far, it all looks great. All fluids changed including trans. All came out clear and metal free.

Here's one I have not heard or read about.
I am bringing my latest acquisition, a 2002 Borrego (Love the yellow ones!) back from a serious period of "benign neglect".
It had a myriad of issues, too many to list for the moment.........
Working on the A/C today and went for a test drive. As I was fiddling with the trip computer, it gave me an implausible range to empty
figure, so I looked at mpg. 64.5mpg.WOW! so I did a reset, and after the calibration period, it came up with 99.9mpg and
that is where it stayed for the remainder of the trip. So cool to have a Rangie with a 2000+ mile range!.......Yea, Right!
Average speed reading was correct.
Anyone know where it is doing the calculations? I figured Becm, but really have no idea.
It was working when I drove it the 350 miles from Washington to Oregon and showed a very believable Mpg number for that trip.
Since then, I have fiddled with the footwell plugs, and a couple of Becm plugs.
Any insights will be very welcome!
At least the A/C is now working as well!

I had a 2000 Bosch 4.6 that I bought as a salvage even though it was perfect....
It did the same thing.
No matter what I tried to do to annoy it and get it to lock down and alarm, I failed.
It did not appear to have any modifications.
It just won't go into a deep sulk and refuse to start.
I checked with my friend who bought it and it is still looking good 8 years later!
Scotty (becm doctor) was active back then and he had me send it to him on his dime and he unlocked it
And tried to figure out what was going on. He was stumped. I think he cloned it but shortly after that his situation changed and he faded away......
It would be nice to know tho.

I chased the same sounding issue a while back.
ABS /TC fault, no error codes stored, intermittent issue.
Nano would read all the sensors correctly up to the 5mph cutoff.
Mine turned out to be a worn front wheel hub bearing that was allowing the reluctor to get just
far enough away from the sensor to trigger a fault.
Only found the bearing issue when I was checking tie rod end condition and the whole damned wheel was loose!
The wobble had pushed the sensor back a few mil as well.
Give the sensor a light whack and re seat it?

Good luck!

+1 on dodgy relay. The hotter you get a relay coil the weaker it's magnetic field.
The weaker the field, the hotter the relay will get as you will have poor contact force.
Self destructive feedback loop!
Oh, then it cooks the base of the fuse box!

Is it possible that the lower windscreen trim is vibrating?
It's held in with a bunch of little clips. They age and break.
Maybe running a piece of tape along the windscreen edge and a test drive?
Only other thing that comes to mind is a piece of tape on a wiring loom has unraveled?

Just putting this out there in the hope that someone has some insight into the worldwide shipping racket?
I am planning on ordering an Recco R380 transmission for the 85 Classic in Oz this week. (Classic has Tdi300 and trans from Disco)
Ashcrofts has the best price and a great reputation, so was leaning that way. Unless I am missing info on a good rebuilder in Oz?
They want about 600 pounds for shipping, and still come out better than a couple of rebuilders in NSW I have contacted, even after duty and GST.
I will be charged 350 Pounds for the core, so I was looking for a really slow, cheap sea freight way to send the core back for less than the
core charge. It just needs to be returned within 12 months.
It seems that most sea freight companies will only deliver to a port and will not arrange onward shipment?
So, question for the UK crowd.....What is the best international port to ship to to get closest to Luton?
Then, is there a courier or freight service that is preferred to do the "final mile" part? (Weight is 62kg)
Any advice gladly accepted!
Cheers,
Tom