To the best of my knowledge......
There was only one part number for the correct DSP amp.
I believe they were only fitted on 2000-2002 models.
I had pretty much the same symptoms on my 02.
It would come and go and could be cleared with Nano.
Drove me round the bend for several years.
Finally faulted out permanently on an icy road at 2am....on Christmas Day!!
Lots more trouble shooting and it turned out to be the RT front wheel bearing.
It was very worn out but showed no odd symptoms and made no noise.
Hitting the ice, it must have really twitched hard over and it dislodged and pushed back the sensor!
New wheel bearing and problem gone.
The sensor shorted to sensor fault was a red herring for me.
Usually it would come up with an abs fault and show no errors on Nano.
Live readings showed signal, resistance was fine.
Jack it up and give the front wheel a good wiggle ( a piece of timber under the wheel to pry it up and move it sideways worked for me)
Good luck!
Welcome in from the cold and dark!
Even if you don't have a "proper" Rangie anymore, you are certainly a welcome
addition to the Pub!
I look forward to seeing the new forum subdivision.
My best mate in Oz has a 320 and will be happy to join in the fun.
As for So Cal? Born there,( bailed to Hawaii ASAP.)
It's a great place to be FROM!
This particular ai seems to be trained with the philosophy of
"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit!"
Sadly, it seems like most of the folks who have joined in on the dark side lately cannot tell the difference......
Franken freak is nothing if not confident, obsequious, and waaaay too chirpy!
Once the VS owners drive away Gilbert and Richard (I know, same scizzo guy)
The forum can do nothing but fail.
Just gotta wonder, what would Toad Hall have to say???!
Hey Gilbert,
When are gonna get us a Frankenstein ai for the Pub?
I have not laughed at a forum post from the dark side for a long time!
Thanks!!
On the other hand, be afraid, be VERY afraid..........
For those who don't lurk on the dark side, I am referring to this:
Yea, (tee hee)
Actually,, I was surprised to find 4 of them. I thought I only had 2?
Go figure!
Glad the issue was sorted with a bit of .....ahem..... contact cleaner.......
Gotta love the easy ones!
That is very interesting on the disco amp. I wonder that Marty did not go that route? Maybe send him a PM and ask?
If you really get frustrated by the rewiring process, I do seem to have 4 spare tested working DSP amps here that
I have collected from breakers over the years.......I also have the aforementioned disco amp on the shelf.
Of course, these may be considered to be "Geographically undesirable" but I don't need that many spares.
Under the circumstances, a very good plan!
Hmmm..... Possibly yours is acting correctly, and your mate's has an issue?
Yea, that's the ticket!!!
You're lucky, not every P38S still has all of the factory installed gremlins!
Interesting.
Thanks for the information.
Sounds pretty darned analog to me!
And you say it comes on and runs when you simply plug in nano?
Earth fault?
P-38 mystery!!
There must be a bit more to it than just a switch and fan if the act of plugging in the Nano triggers it to come on?
Possibly a relay being driven by the Becm, but as nothing is shown in ETM, this is a real odd one.
Have they re purposed a circuit on the the Becm power board that would do something else if it was a petrol engine??
There have been further developments.....
Lately, it has been "occasionally" telling me the license plate bulb is out. Taillights are ok
The really odd one is the trailer indicator (Symbol of a trailer) has been flashing along with the LH turn indicator.
But not all the time, and maybe just a few blinks when it does do it.
Does that bit of information jog anyone's memory? Am I perhaps chasing a bad underbonnet fusebox?
Fuel gauge is still a bit out of whack. It ran out of fuel in 35 miles after it went to <50 miles. (I had spare petrol with me)
I don't mind it being a bit nuts at 3/4 and above, but I like to know when I am at the bottom, that I really am!
Which pots were calibration for that again?
Granted, this site is blessedly "Brit-Centric" in nature, however there are still a lot of owners all over the world, including, YES! here in the former colony AKA the USA.
Tragically, here, I have seen over a hundred very nice, mostly under 150k miles (I have had great luck in jumping in a small battery and reading the Becm for mileage) clean examples in breakers yards with unknown issues.
No way to know what the final straw was with most of them, but due to the lack of real mechanics over here who are willing to even look at one of "Those things" and the sad fact that there is no shortage of unethical charlatans who are perfectly willing to take enormous sums of money to fix something, only to get it wrong, at best and make things worse usually.
As with everywhere I am aware of, the old skilled trained experienced guys are getting pretty thin on the ground.
I suspect most of them on your side of the ditch are on this forum!
So, to answer your question:
I have tested this with all 3 of my P-38s, and if I intentionally immobilise the BECM I can immediately start the vehicle, and, strangely, there are no messages in the console, and everything works as usual.
The only indication that appears is the red led on the dash will be flashing to indicate it thinks the alarm is on.
Having disconnected the alarm horn long ago, I don't know that it would not be bleating like Shaun the Sheep!
So, if the S-chip is a method of keeping people from getting immobilised due to their lack of knowledge of the proper maintenance procedures for the locking system, then I say, sell one to everyone who has had immobiliser issues!
Remember, they may be capable of learning to fix things in time if they don't get so pissed off and disgusted that they torch, or trash a perfectly serviceable vehicle. The fact that they ask questions (Over and over again) about issues they are having shows at least a willingness to give it a go.
Who has the sign off: "Land Rover, making mechanics out of drivers since 1945"
Never were more true words spoken!
Stepping down from soap box now......
The door latch or Nano and EKA tricks might work, but I am assuming that this one has been annoyed until it has gone into what I think of as "Secondary lockdown"" The only way out of that is for the BECM to take a trip to someone with full BBS setup or testbook for unlocking.....$$$$$$
OR the Psidoc solution is quicker, cheaper, and foolproof. (and forever)
NO I do not work for, or in any way receive compensation from Simon.
I just love his product and want to keep as many P-38s out of the breakers yard due to immobilisation issues as possible.
Someone needs to get one of Psidoc's chipped unlocked ECU units and go plug it in and drive it off.
About a 5 minute job!
I would love to see the look on the seller's face!
Was going to attack this issue this morning, but it seems to have miraculously healed itself.....For now......
Of course, this is the '99 with the randomly wonky fuel gauge as well.....That seems stable for the moment too......
OK,
I have sussed the problem(s)
First and foremost is that when it comes to the recirculation flap motors, the Nano, or at least mine. IS Dyslectic!!
It has been pointing to the LEFT recirc motor, when it was the RIGHT motor all along.
Since these motors seem to be a rare failure, it's possible this is not a well known bug?
To find this, I just looked down the pollen filter holes, and observed the Left flap moves just fine, whilst the Right flap is a non player!
Pulled the kick panel, unplugged RH motor, and tested. It came up Open circuit instead of shorted.
Putting a motor only from a blend motor on the RH side cleared that fault, and only then did it detect the Left hand motor being unplugged??!!
Interesting to note, the HVAC controller did not throw an open circuit fault when the Left hand motor was unplugged.
So, if it finds one recirc motor fault, it seems to stop looking for another. Curious.......
In any event, I will now look into replacing the RIGHT hand motor, which looks easier to get at than the Left! (Yea, Riiiight...)
3rd new fuel pump/ sender and it seems to be playing well. We shall see........
Thanks for the help!
Got a new one on the '99
Last night, I went for a drive and within about 30 seconds of setting out, with lights on, I got 3 messages:
RH Tail Bulb out, LH Tail Bulb out, License plate lamp bulb out.
Upon inspection, all 3 lights were merrily shining away. Shut off and upon re starting, got the same thing.
I have checked RAVE thinking it was possibly an earth issue. Found that they do not share a common Earth point, so non starter there.
Any clues as to where I look from here?
Sorry, I failed to mention that with the motor unplugged as well as with the wires going to the motor plug
cut at the HVAC plug, it is consistently reporting "Motor is short circuit to Pos 12v"
I am indeed trying a blend motor as a substitute as you had suggested on the dark side sometime back.
I did notice that since the HVAC only does a calibration every 6 or so cycles of the ignition that
with motor plugged in, and error cleared, it would stay cleared until it tried to do a scheduled calibration.
Now, it seems I cannot even clear the fault.
I do cycle the ignition after clearing fault as Marty suggested......
Having fixed the issues on the RT side with distribution motor, I have turned my attention to the LH side distribution flap motor.
Nano shows error as "Motor short circuit to 12 volt positive"
The motor moves the flap just fine from recirc to fresh.
I have unplugged the motor and substituted in a blend motor with a good drive. Works fine. Same error.
I found the 2 wires at the HVAC head unit plug and snipped them and attached motor directly to the plug.
Same error.
I have swapped in 2 different known good, tested working head units and same error.
What am I missing? Nothing in that circuit is shorted to positive anywhere???!