Arrrggggghhhh!!!!!!
I made up a cheater plug for the top of the fuel pump so that I can drive whilst substituting in various fixed resistors
feeding the resistance directly to the BECM via the pump plug.
I needed to do this as there is something changing on a dynamic basis while driving.
What I have observed so far is that with 150 ohms in, it reads about 1/8 tank. No fuel range light yet..
Drive a bit, and it will quickly twitch up 1/4 tank and stay stable there. No correlation between lights on/ off brake pump running / off.
When I switched in 67 ohms, it read just above 1/2 and was fine until, while driving, it went up the 1/4 tank increment.
No wonder that when it is actually full, the gauge freaks out for the first 1/4 tank as it is seeing the signal as out of range.
The resistance is not changing, yet the gauge is?????
So, as this is a signal that is being sent to the cluster as a digital stream, would I possibly be correct in pointing to the Becm as the possible
culprit?. I realise it gets blamed for many things and is rarely at fault however as the PO had their shop remove the Becm and send it to Turners
at at least one point, I am guessing someone messed around in there.
I have a spare board for the Becm that is allegedly a clone of the original, or is perhaps the original..
This is getting ridiculous to the point of being fun now!

Edit: The bad news is that the board I have is a power board.....The good news is that it looks to be in very good condition......No help for this one however.
Guess I will get inside the box and have a look for corrosion, etc.

Well, you mentioned that you were answering questions from Calais.....
I shall officially amend my salutation to "Hope you enjoy(ed) your Banzi run
In the Plod...."

Ahhh, thanks.
I recall that thread.
I will have a play with it this morning.
Also need to get rid of the annoying 5mph error on my 02.
Cheers!
Enjoy your holidays!!

Yep!
What you have here looks like your basic AI hack.
Very generic questions.
Annoying. But clever.....

Thanks, that's actually the next step.
I'm rummaging around the shed looking for the box of pots to do just that.
Thanks for the numbers!
It's possible the PO or his "expert" shop have screwed around with the calibration.
Got a message center bulb to replace anyway so I will have a play with it.
I guess just fill it up and adjust as appropriate.

Everyone??
Ahem.....
Careful how widely you tar us over here with that very wide brush you are using....
There are a lot of us all over the planet that want to keep things just as they're designed, thank you very much!

Having stepped off of my soap box, I can certainly appreciate your take on the unwashed masses that are currently teeming on the dark side!
Some of your answers are vintage Toad Hall!!!
Got me laughing several times.
Do you also have an urge to drink good single malt from the bottle with a straw
Whilst you moderate over there?
Keep up the good work. You are appreciated wether it seems like it or not.

Now, could you please send me a tacho conversation box for a 454 big block Ford I am installing?

Upon further investigation, I found the RH kick panel plugs to be SERIOUSLY green.......
Whipped out the soldering tools and heat shrink, and fixed them. While it did not seem to effect the fuel gauge issue, it did fix the LH rear speaker and the subwoofer.
(Being the Missus' car, I was not really aware they were out....) Glad the soldering job fixed something!
Fuel gauge is mostly working, but I do not think it is calibrated correctly.as in resistance being added by a bad connection.

Also, discovered a mystery black wire coming out of the loom under the door sill cover that had a 1/4 inch ring terminal on it.
The matching red wire with it,went to a 5 amp fuse that looked a bit aftermarket but well done and seemed part of the harness.
I had a suspicion that this was possibly power and earth for the Phillips Incar nav system that has never come on, so I
Jumped black wire to earth, and lo and behold! The sat nav worked.....sort of.
It would load the dvd, but not recognise it.
As I had a spare Dvd drive, I swapped it in and now have a fully functioning, virtually obsolete GPS nav system!
I had been intending to fix this thing for a while, so glad it was an easy fix!
I am guessing the sender wiring goes through the LH side, and hope to find cruddy plugs there as well.

Right!
So, I have tested 2 different, but used sending units and they both have a few issues.
Mostly, the fuel gauge reads mid and lower fine, but as soon as they go above about 4/5 tank, the
fuel gauge plunges to empty, the range light comes on, and "Fuel Gauge Fault" is announced in the message centre.
Just put in a brand new genuine Bosch pump after first checking sender with ohm meter and plugging in the unit
whilst still outside of the tank (unplugged fuel pump to prevent dry running) and gauge read just fine until I ran it to the full side of the sender, then, same result. Straight to empty.
I understand that if you run the wiper off of the PCB traces, it will show a fault, so that should not be the problem.
Installed, and with about 4/5 tank of fuel, when you switch on ignition, it reads correctly for a few seconds, then goes to fault mode.
I would suspect corroded plug, or wire issue if it had not passed with flying colours when I used a resistor substitution wheel and the gauge ran in a very linear manner.
Is there a calibration on the cluster for this, or possibly, I do have a corroded wire somewhere. I have not cut out and re soldered the kick panel plugs, but will have a look there next.
Aside from that, I am out of ideas.
Not really a problem as such, as it reads very well down to empty, which is the important bit, it is just annoying that I cannot solve it!

With the old sender, it did indeed say "FUEL SENDER FAULT"
And, it was indeed faulty.
I had my run to bring down the fuel level, and no change,
So, I went to the boat and got my good ohm meter......
I found the "New" sender reading 39 ohms.
So, got my trusty resistor substitution wheel, and clipped it to the sender wires.
For the resistance I applied to the wires at the fuel tank plug, I got these results:
47 ohms- Full
100 ohms- 1/2
150 ohms- 3/8
220 ohms 1/8
330 ohms- Empty
This is correct according to an old post on the dark side by Marty, so you know its good data!
Looking like the sender got upset during it's transplant.
Next, I will obviously need to pull it back out to see what I did to upset it!

On the subject of BECM compatibility, At least for NAS spec, they seem to be reverse compatible.
Long ago, I had Scotty (Remember him!?) unlock and clone one from my 95 parts car to work in my 02, which it has been doing just fine......
Not sure, but he may have done a firmware update as well????
Thanks, once again for the help!
I will report back when I find out how I managed to destroy a perfectly good sender.

Thanks Gilbert!
Turns out that E0559 is the one on the wing next to the coolant expansion bottle.
Clean and tight, but wire brushed just in case.
Also checked C1289 the 20 pin plug on BECM. Clean and tight. Checked all the plugs on the front, since I was in there.
All looked good, so no moisture getting to the BECM.
So, as I had done the "Surgically cut flap" procedure for the fuel pump (I have only gravel surfaces to work on at
present.....Shop floor coming soon.) It only took a minute to remove sealant and access the pump (Luxury!)
I opened the flap, and checked the pump connection. Clean.
Next I took the old fuel pump and plugged it in to see if the old problem was still the same.
Yep! gauge read correctly and exhibited all the symptoms that I expected from a known worn out sender.
Plugged the "New" pump back in, and, with key in Pos II gauge reads full, as I would expect, as tank is full......
So, start engine and within 5-10 seconds needle sails down to empty and I get "Gauge Fault" message.
The pump and sender was very recently in my 02 and worked flawlessly. I suppose I could have damaged it in the transplant, but took great care not to.
Odd that it thinks Gauge is at fault when it seems to be a sender issue?
Further thoughts welcome!
I am going to take it for a drive today to get the tank down a bit and see what happens.

1999 HSK, Petrol
I had been having issues with a "FAULTY FUEL SENDER" indication on the message center display accompanied by fuel needle plunging
to zero and low fuel indicator light being illuminated.
This only happened after a fill up, so full tank. It got good when fuel was below 3/4 tank and was correct to empty.
I assumed that it was a sender with a worn track at the top end, so I swapped in a fully tested, known good fuel pump and sender assembly.
This seemed to fix the issue straight away! The old sender indeed had bad sections on the track at the top end, and about the 3/4 mark.
Bench testing with ohm meter confirmed this.
Now, however, I am getting a "FUEL GAUGE FAULT" indication on the message center, along with the needle plunge and low fuel light indication.
When ignition is switched on, the gauge reads correctly. after starting, and idling a few seconds it faults out. I noticed that a few times when it stayed accurate
for a bit, that pressing the brake would fault it out (Bad earth somewhere?)
Plugged in Nano, and looked at fuel sender values. Got a 36 and this dropped to a 26 when brake was pressed.........And went as low as 8.
I cannot seem to find my guide to the Nano that indicates what these readings should be?
Comparing to my 2002, the fuel sender readings on it stay solid at 69 when I press brake....(It has less fuel, so I would expect different number)
Any hot tips as to where to start looking? I have confirmed earths under the bonnet are good, so I suppose it's under the dash next.

Aloha João,
If you want to send me your address either by PM or here, I will be happy to send you a few O rings.
(To be quite honest, I would prefer to hand deliver them!)
My repair has been a success, so they must be the correct compound.
I don't suspect postage will be much, so no worries there. Happy to help.
Cheers
Tom

Now you mentioned it, I have noticed that on the 02, if it has been in motorway height, it will go back up to standard height at a traffic light with the brake pedal pressed if the light is long enough.
Not sure if I have ever tried dropping it to access with just brake on, but not in park.

Thanks!
I found an old thread on the dark side, then used the way back to confirm.
Got all of the pins I need except for the LCD screen backlight which is supplied separately...
Any idea what pin on the 20 pin connector that supplies that?
I am going on the video showing the test plug setup. He connects 2 wires from the 20 pin plug......
Without any 20 pin connector wires connected, the display works and all buttons check out fine, just gotta use a torch for the LCD.
I got RAVE to work on my really old XP machine and it looks like possibly pin 11? Don't want to fry anything though......

Got 2 fully refreshed HVAC controllers done.
3 to go
Oh, I did mean the Right hand most 2 plugs as viewed from the face. Should have said Center and RH plug.
I know the LH plugs are I/O

Aloha,
My PC that runs RAVE in the shed is on loan......
Does anyone have a handy list of the (7, I believe) wires on the RH 2 plugs on the controller that need to have B+ and earth connected
to enable testing of the unit on the bench?
I have a couple of plugs to use for the test rig.
Going to overhaul 5 HVAC controllers and it would be very nice to be able to check out bulbs and display on the bench.

Section b seems to be referring to "components" that may have been modified.
If the whole suspension has been changed, it would not apply.
(Oh my, what if you modify a spring!?)

Now, not ever having spent a quiet evening perusing the MOT testers manual......
What's it have to say about "modified vehicles"
Surely changing the whole design of the suspension would qualify as a modification? "Got a permit for those springs chum?"
Heck, there's probably a detector van out looking for just that!!

Had a slowly advancing rotational "grunch, grunch" noise that was one of those that seemed to be coming from a bunch of different places.
Finally had an assistant hang out of the LH rear window and listen. He thought rear wheel bearing.
Drained Diff, and found major water contamination in lube, odd, since i had not been in any deep water since last oil change in diff. breather good as well.
Anyway, I got a good second hand 4 pin diff from breaker, and installed it today.
Checked wheel bearings when I pulled axles. Both good.
Problem solved! $80 bucks, including diff, oil and black silicone!!
Easy job. Gotta love these beasts!
Original diff looks good on inspection, so I am thinking carrier bearing. Will disassemble when it gets warmer and see.

Yes, I'm sure the Becm needs to be powered up.
I got even luckier as someone had pulled all but 4 of the small fuses and had left only one maxi in the under bonnet fuse box. Just enough apparently.
I will have to add a few Maxie's to my kit as pulling all the fuses is common.
Even luckier, even though the passenger side foot well cover was hanging out of the door by the Obd port wires, they were still connected!
P-38s are a bit thin on the ground lately, but if you are in the San Francisco bay area, there always seems to be a couple around. Sadly that's 12 hours drive from my place now.

Aloha,
Over the years I have seen some nice and not so nice P-38s at wrecking yards.
The one thing the breakers don't know is the mileage of the Rangies.
If you happen to have a Nanocom and a suitable battery, you can not only determine the mileage, but also test the stereo / amps
and unlock the doors, tailgate, and lift hatch without destroying anything. And without the key.
I recently had amazing luck reading the mileage on an 99 that had the dashboard and all the electrics therin
removed by what appeared to be a dull shark! A total shambles.
As I wanted the rear diff, I wanted the mileage, so using an 18v Makita cordless tool battery and a set of leads and clips to fit,
I gave it a try. To my astonishment, it lit up and I was able to read the information.
Just clip an 12-18v battery to the battery leads and fingers crossed, it will play!

I have tracked down an noise I have been hearing lately to the rear axle.
Upon draining the oil from the rear diff, I found it to be the color and consistency of milk chocolate pudding.
Not a good look for gear oil. Obviously water got in there, which is a real mystery to me as I have not been wading at all
since the last time i serviced the rear end. Vent tube is in place and routed properly as well
Be that as it may, I believe the diff to be stuffed!
I was able to get a decent used diff from the local breakers with 174k miles on it.
Rather than just drop it in, I was planning to replace the outer bearings as well since they share the nice wet lube oil......
Question is, How are the bearings best removed? Rave does not seem to get into the actual rear axle other than R&R diff assy.
Are they as difficult to press in and out as the fronts?
Any hints and tricks for doing this greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Tom