Aloha,
I need to send off one of my fobs for repair. Bad switches, it seems.
Just wondering who / where is the current favourite service centre?
I had a look on Ebay, and there are a large number of identical looking ads.......I know Gilbert has recommended someone recently, but my
search super powers seem to have failed me when I tried to find the link to the Ebay guy.
Cheers!
I have had very good luck with the EAS on all of the P-38s I have owned, so I guess I was due for this one!
Been having a hard time getting the eas calibrated on the Borrego. I have blocks, and did a calibration last month.
After a few minor tweaks, I got it spot on! Perfect at all 4 corners.Then, a week later after just being parked in the shed, it wasn't anymore.
Now the left side comes radically up, and Rt side goes down in about the same proportion.
I just calibrated again, with blocks.Here is what I get after calibration:
Extended:
FL Target: 130 FL Actual 146
FR Target 134 FR Actual 125
RL Target 126 RL Actual 145
RR Target 123 RR Actual 102
Standard:
FL Target 107 FL Actual 119
FR Target 109 FR Actual 97
RL Target 107 RL Actual 123
RR Target 104 RR Actual 87
Highway:
FL Target 89 FL Actual 96
FR Target 91 FR Actual 79
RL Target 96 RL Actual 94
RR Target 92 RR Actual 70
These numbers are consistent +/- a couple of points when input into 3 different EAS ECUs
All 3 ECUs exhibit the same behaviour when the observed values for calibration are saved into them.
I have confirmed all 4 sensors are in good shape and plugs are clean.
I have cleaned and re tightened the ground points related to EAS on LF fender.
I have cleaned the plug and mating sockets of all 3 EAS controllers
I have 4 new Dunlop bags.
I have replaced, then did a left right swap of the rear sensors. No difference
The plug in the RH kick panel is clean (Hmm, Better go check the left side...)
As a new bonus feature, it now also levels itself after shutting it off and closing the door.....
It goes straight to access height!
Over the years, I have had various P-38s occasionally but rarely come up with one side MUCH higher after they had sat for several months and EAS had leaked down. Cycling the EAS up and down, or driving them always cleared things up.
SOLVED: It was a bad driver pack. It was not operating the RR valve even though the EAS ECU was sending the 12v signal, so basically the 3 other corners were dragging it along. Found it by operating the valves with Nano and listening carefully. RR would operate about 1% of the time when commanded to open.
Replaced with one from the parts cupboard, and it is now riding precisely where it is programmed to.
Very strange set of symptoms for a pretty simple problem. I now have a solid EAS!
Now for the Air Con slow leak......
What's the latest wisdom?
(If it's important, I am using Elring gaskets.)
I am ready to re install the skimmed heads on the 02, and have found old discussions here that say 65 Ft/Lbs is good.
70 ft pounds may or may not be better....
Atlantic British video for stud install says 85 Ft Pounds
annnnd the instructions on Lucky8 website, which shows an ARP document give the final torque as 100 ft Pounds!!
I note that the block is helicoiled, so don't expect to pull anything out, but 100? Really??
I am now paralised by indecision, so any help appreciated.
Failing that, I will probably straddle the fence and go 75
I have been searching for a while this morning and have drawn a blank.
As I am digging down to the heads on the Borrego, removing the accessories and brackets,
I have been dutifully labeling, and cleaning all the fasteners.
Most of them have a bit of corrosion on them and a few have compromised heads, so since they are out, good time to replace them!
Thing is, I don't see any offerings for a full set of bolts, etc?
Anyone know where they can be had?
I suspect that getting them individually would double the cost of the parts for this job.
Well, after owning 9 P-38s I have finally struck one with a bad head gasket. The latest Borrego.
Just started pufffing out the side. Ironically, in the shop just as I finished repairing and re gassing air con so I was listening out for odd noises.
I was hoping it was manifold but that would be too easy!
So, it's heads off and do what is needed......At least I finally have a well lit shop with a solid floor now.
The question at this point is which gasket set is recommended? There is a bewildering selection out there with prices all over the place!
I already know, from years of reading about this, that I will be wanting ARP studs rather than stretch bolts.
Also, whilst the heads are off, and all the top end bits are off, what else is a must do?
Engine has 122k miles on it........
Oh, yea, I am assuming I would be wise to do both sides, not just the one that is leaking??
Any guidance here will be much appreciated!
Cheers,
Tom
Aloha all,
I have the Dunlop air bags on the way from LR direct.....
If I could add a RH (LH Drive car) door latch to my order, what would I get??
I have used the MG LH latches in the past, but was not sure that the RH drive RH latch would work??
I have dancing door locks on the Borrego and the one that does not move is the passenger side lock.
Also, rear hatch is intermittent as well. Sounds a bit like a bad switch to me.
Any ideas?
Cheers!
I'm knocking off jobs on the Borrego currently.
Did the u joints and new rotors and pads all around. Also new shoes for the parking brake.
Whilst lying comfortably under the beastie, I had to notice that there are lots of little cracks in the air bags.
Not leaking yet, but as I am going for reliability on this one, a set of quality Dunlop bags is in the near future.
It's currently on arnotts, so.......
Where's the best place to buy Dunlop bags lately?
Cheers!
I have pretty much given up on any of the fan speed controllers I have been able to buy from sleezebay
Therefore, I will attempt a repair. Super simple circuit, so the failure has to be the transistors.
I have tried this previously and used MJ11015 power transistors, Didn't work......Could have been faulty parts??
I have another genuine Valeo unit (Dead) that appears to have FW2602541 transistors.
This seems to be a bad number, and due to corrosion on the Transistors, I am not dead sure I have it right.....
So, anyone with a live or dead controller that can get me the number on the transistors, I will be grateful, as I need a new fan
for the Borrego......
Cheers,
Tom
Edit:
Looks like it was originally FW20625A1 (not 41)
Further research says that the MJ11015 would be a spiffy replacement. As I have tried these, I am not so sure.
I will order the correct part, which is only available from China, and another set of the 11015 cans, and see if I have any success!
Still, any different part numbers on known working controllers will be helpful.
As these things are Darlington transistors, it is now no surprise that they spontaneously short circuit!
When we were using Darlingtons in power Inverters, they would short and catch fire!!
Aloha, and G'day from the antipodes.
I am currently here having fun driving Austin Champs and working on my 85 Classic.
Got the new Ashcroft R380 gearbox in just fine. Now, I have an issue with my high beam headlights.
They work when I flick the stalk, but not when I move it forward to keep them on.
Looking for a wiring diagram for the lighting circuit.
Anything out there?
Cheers!
Tom
Here's one I have not heard or read about.
I am bringing my latest acquisition, a 2002 Borrego (Love the yellow ones!) back from a serious period of "benign neglect".
It had a myriad of issues, too many to list for the moment.........
Working on the A/C today and went for a test drive. As I was fiddling with the trip computer, it gave me an implausible range to empty
figure, so I looked at mpg. 64.5mpg.WOW! so I did a reset, and after the calibration period, it came up with 99.9mpg and
that is where it stayed for the remainder of the trip. So cool to have a Rangie with a 2000+ mile range!.......Yea, Right!
Average speed reading was correct.
Anyone know where it is doing the calculations? I figured Becm, but really have no idea.
It was working when I drove it the 350 miles from Washington to Oregon and showed a very believable Mpg number for that trip.
Since then, I have fiddled with the footwell plugs, and a couple of Becm plugs.
Any insights will be very welcome!
At least the A/C is now working as well!
Just putting this out there in the hope that someone has some insight into the worldwide shipping racket?
I am planning on ordering an Recco R380 transmission for the 85 Classic in Oz this week. (Classic has Tdi300 and trans from Disco)
Ashcrofts has the best price and a great reputation, so was leaning that way. Unless I am missing info on a good rebuilder in Oz?
They want about 600 pounds for shipping, and still come out better than a couple of rebuilders in NSW I have contacted, even after duty and GST.
I will be charged 350 Pounds for the core, so I was looking for a really slow, cheap sea freight way to send the core back for less than the
core charge. It just needs to be returned within 12 months.
It seems that most sea freight companies will only deliver to a port and will not arrange onward shipment?
So, question for the UK crowd.....What is the best international port to ship to to get closest to Luton?
Then, is there a courier or freight service that is preferred to do the "final mile" part? (Weight is 62kg)
Any advice gladly accepted!
Cheers,
Tom
Next on the list of minor annoyances is the Cruise control on the 02...
It was fine, then just stopped.
The light on the switch is off, however, I suspect that is a bad bulb.
I do have difficulty connecting to Hella CC with Nano, but when it eventually does, I get to check all functions.
If the dash switch is not pressed, I cannot ever connect, and if I switch dash off whilst reading data, it stops, so I think switch is OK
Speed input valid, and follows actual speed whilst driving.
Brake light shows ON when pressed.
Wheel buttons show proper response.
Vacuum lines are good, and I swapped in a known good vac pump/ diaphragm module.
Swapped in the ECU from the 99, which is the same part number. No difference.
What I cannot get to change is the "Brake / Clutch switch" status. It stays reporting "Pressed" no mater how I manipulate the
CC switch on the pedal.
So, I have "Cruise Status" DISABLED showing on line one of the inputs screen.
Cruise is "SET" in Becm settings
Anything else to check? I will remove cruise control brake switch next and test on the bench.
As an aside, Oddly, the CC on the 99 is duff as well at the moment. Nano reads same for it as well. Dash switch on 99 does light up.
It is as difficult to connect to with the Nano as the 02.
The reason for this question is that I am going to be driving from Oregon to Southern California next week and planning to stop at as many breakers as I can that have P38s......
So far, 2. A 96 and a 98. And that's from 21 breakers!! Getting scarce!
I am after a differential for the front axle of my 02. ( And a handful of other odds and sods)
Don't need it yet, but wanted to get one as there are fewer and fewer P38s coming up in breakers yards.
So, is a 4.6 1998 differential a 4 pin and if I have a choice, would a front axle be in better condition than the rear?
Any other parts I should have on the shelf? I'm thinking transfer case?
With any kind of luck, I will be able to power up the becm and use nano to pull up the mileage.. I'm good with anything under 150k miles.
Cheers!
As the title says. How the heck can a blend motor short to positive when it is mounted onto a pcb
which is encased in plastic, then screwed to a plastic box?
I have had an entertaining day chasing my Right hand blend motor shorted to ground issue.....
Removed, tested, cleaned, replaced. Same error.
Tried 3 different, known good HVAC heads. Same problem.
Swapped in a used replacement. Problem went away! Only to reappear as "Potentiometer feedback circuit failed" (or something like that)
Put in a 3rd B/M after testing, cleaning, and re testing. This one faulted with Motor shorted to positive.
Took the motor out of the one with Pot failed error, and put it in the one with Motor shorted issue.
Got motor shorted error on this one.
I am thinking now that the caps on the B/M PCB are the issue as they will die with age.
How else could stray current trigger a fault?
Tomorrows job will be to remove these caps and see what is happening.
I am sure they are there to filter the noise from the brushed motor, Worth a try...
I will source replacements and try that if no joy.
If Marty was around, I am sure he would have a better plan.
I am open to suggestions.
I will report back tomorrow......
Hey Gilbert,
When are gonna get us a Frankenstein ai for the Pub?
I have not laughed at a forum post from the dark side for a long time!
Thanks!!
On the other hand, be afraid, be VERY afraid..........
For those who don't lurk on the dark side, I am referring to this:
Got a new one on the '99
Last night, I went for a drive and within about 30 seconds of setting out, with lights on, I got 3 messages:
RH Tail Bulb out, LH Tail Bulb out, License plate lamp bulb out.
Upon inspection, all 3 lights were merrily shining away. Shut off and upon re starting, got the same thing.
I have checked RAVE thinking it was possibly an earth issue. Found that they do not share a common Earth point, so non starter there.
Any clues as to where I look from here?
Having fixed the issues on the RT side with distribution motor, I have turned my attention to the LH side distribution flap motor.
Nano shows error as "Motor short circuit to 12 volt positive"
The motor moves the flap just fine from recirc to fresh.
I have unplugged the motor and substituted in a blend motor with a good drive. Works fine. Same error.
I found the 2 wires at the HVAC head unit plug and snipped them and attached motor directly to the plug.
Same error.
I have swapped in 2 different known good, tested working head units and same error.
What am I missing? Nothing in that circuit is shorted to positive anywhere???!
Well, it's not so much an "Issue" as a real boneheaded maneuver.
I was replacing the diversion blend motor on the RH side of my LH drive '99. went well, and no more checkbook.
Having done the heater core on my 02, I was just breezing away putting everything back together, because I knew what I was about!
Replaced glove box fascia, having smoothly clipped in the cable release cassette........Without checking to be sure it was engaged....OOPs
Put in hinge fasteners and attempted to open the glovebox. Yea, Right! Latched, and the cable is not engaged.
So, what is the approved procedure for extricating myself from this??? Non destructively preferred.
I suppose it is the same as if the cable broke at the latch??
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Cheers!!
Edit...An hour later......
Had something to eat (And Drink!) and had another look.
I am guessing that if I use my super shallow ratcheting screwdriver, I will be able to remove at least the screws along the top of the
piece that holds the top in. Then attempt to either re seat the cassette or jigger the release with picks?
Fortunately, the aforementioned ratchet driver is in the tool kit on boat, so my only option tonight is another G&T.....
Any refinements cheerfully welcome!
1999 HSK, Petrol
I had been having issues with a "FAULTY FUEL SENDER" indication on the message center display accompanied by fuel needle plunging
to zero and low fuel indicator light being illuminated.
This only happened after a fill up, so full tank. It got good when fuel was below 3/4 tank and was correct to empty.
I assumed that it was a sender with a worn track at the top end, so I swapped in a fully tested, known good fuel pump and sender assembly.
This seemed to fix the issue straight away! The old sender indeed had bad sections on the track at the top end, and about the 3/4 mark.
Bench testing with ohm meter confirmed this.
Now, however, I am getting a "FUEL GAUGE FAULT" indication on the message center, along with the needle plunge and low fuel light indication.
When ignition is switched on, the gauge reads correctly. after starting, and idling a few seconds it faults out. I noticed that a few times when it stayed accurate
for a bit, that pressing the brake would fault it out (Bad earth somewhere?)
Plugged in Nano, and looked at fuel sender values. Got a 36 and this dropped to a 26 when brake was pressed.........And went as low as 8.
I cannot seem to find my guide to the Nano that indicates what these readings should be?
Comparing to my 2002, the fuel sender readings on it stay solid at 69 when I press brake....(It has less fuel, so I would expect different number)
Any hot tips as to where to start looking? I have confirmed earths under the bonnet are good, so I suppose it's under the dash next.
Aloha,
My PC that runs RAVE in the shed is on loan......
Does anyone have a handy list of the (7, I believe) wires on the RH 2 plugs on the controller that need to have B+ and earth connected
to enable testing of the unit on the bench?
I have a couple of plugs to use for the test rig.
Going to overhaul 5 HVAC controllers and it would be very nice to be able to check out bulbs and display on the bench.