Both ideas noted. But things have moved on.
Switched back to new ECU.
1 Noticed some corroded pins on the old one I missed the first time because my work light is a bit directional.
2 Ran the pump for a minute with the Nanocom just to prove a point. Cycling through the INPUTS I saw Temp Sensor was showing HOT. Checked the pump - cold to the touch.
It was showing NORMAL earlier. I should keep a log because I'm not 100 percent sure which ECU I had in.
Thermistor in order. Arriving Monday.
Honestly, though. I'd rather get a Viair, ground the Orange wire and never go through this again. I know purists disapprove of this kind of thing, but with a duty cycle of 100 percent (not 15) and almost 4 times the flow rate it seems perfect. Some people worry about demand spikes at startup but anecdotally that doesn't seem to be an issue.
My current hypothesis is that the ECU in the car is faulty.
The new ECU appeared faulty but actually threw an error because it's calibrated for a different car and the values were out of range.
I'm going to give it a fair crack of the whip buy reconnecting it then doing all the crap with the plastic rods. All without a working pump... Trolly Jack and my arms will take a hammering.
I assume running the pump with Nanocom does so with exhaust valve open so I can't cheat? Thigh it occurs to me jumping the relay might work as long as i monitor the pump so it doesn't overheat.
I also wonder if just copying the Access mode figures might be enough to kick-start things...
Gilbertd wrote:
About the only thing left that you haven't checked would be the pressure switch. If the pump needs to run it would be open circuit, closed when the system is up to pressure.
I have a Nanocom. Anything else I can check?
"Raise Switch" and "Lower Switch" both say OPEN.
Car is in Accss.
These values do not change if I select Standard.
What are they? Where are they? What does it mean if both are OPEN?
C141 Pins 7 and 9 open.
Testing:
Orange and black wires are connected.
Maxi Fuse 2 intact.
Relay 2 works in Syckes-Pickavant tester.
Removing relay and jumping 3 and 5 runs pump.
ECU switch for another LRPN: ANR4499
Three of them hold up the kick panel under the glove box.
Replacing ABS sensor (front right}.
1 HTF do you pull it out?
2 How do you squeeze both buttons on the plug at the other end?
3 Two lower clips have dissolved. Are there part numbers and are they still available?
Cheers!
Found this. Driver's side in front of the battery.
It's very clean so seems to have been plugged in until recently. Wires are white\purple and black\purple.
Any ideas?
Perfect. Thank you very much.
Does anyone know the part number for the little metal cylinder which joins the automatic gear selector to the switch on the gearbox? Wear can be a cause of an inability to select Park.
Oh! Interesting. Steering wheel was centered but I didn't check the new cassette before fitting it. How does one tell when the ribbon is centred? Are there index marks?
Is anyone out there refurbishing these? My second one has just failed. All controls dead. They all wear out eventually and we're going to run out if someone doesn't figure out a repair.
Gilbertd wrote:
The Alpine has catches at the top, about an inch in from each side. A couple of feeler gauges usually works well.
You haven't got the DSP option have you? If you have it then gets very complicated.
Bought some keys which fit but don't work.
Any more ideas?
Thanks both!
Anyone know the part number for the clips which hold on the pillar trims?
Yes I know I can get some bent corroded ones from a scrapyard.
Ordered these but they don't look quite right.
Also what is the black foam tape they use to stop them rattling? I'm guessing PVC insulating take will do but if I can get the right stuff...
Gilbertd wrote:
You haven't got the DSP option have you? If you have it then gets very complicated.
Yes, I have.
In which case I've decided to get a Highway 600 and install a Grom box at the back of the radio to give me a hard wired AUX input.
Thank you! Mine is the Alpine head unit. The release keys seen to be tricky. Found a 38 piece kit on Amazon but none look exactly like the ones in a video I watched, but it's hard to tell as moving picture and freeze frame too blurred.
Do you know there RRK- number or if another brand uses similar keys?
I think the PURE Highway scores because of the magnetic ground plane anchor for the roof and stick on windscreen antenna. I assume the Kenwood doesn't have anything like that because it's a one box solution in the dash?
The weak point of the Highway is that I still need the cassette from the AUX out. FM is out of the question. Quality is dreadful and you can never maintain clear channels on a long journey.
That Kenwood unit looks perfect and is the same price as the Highway 600 v2.
Why do people bypass the door amps?