FL (pins 1/2): 0 ohms
FR (pins 4/5): 0 ohms
RL (pins 7/8): 920omhs
RR (pins 3/6): 917 ohms
None show continuity to ground.
Find this useful PDF while Googling:
https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/preview/wabco-d-type-p38
Aragorn wrote:
I had this same fault code on mine after i converted it to Wabco D. However its gone away and hasnt returned all summer. I do wonder if it was dampness/moisture in/around the ECU unit as my car does seem to have a bit of a leak, and the ECU and area around it did appear to have sort of a slight sheen of condensation... It was also popping a few other codes relating to the pump iirc.
Thank you. It was bone dry and all connections pristine. It's very low mileage (<90k) and garaged most of its life ... Until we brought it to rainy Somerset Levels!
mad-as wrote:
Chasman wrote:
I'm not exactly sure what you mean.
the pins on the abs sensors down on the hubs and the reluctor ring on the axle is also a spot to look as this is where the reading is taken from for the abs sensor, just look down the hole and you can see it
why are you pulling the electrics out , am i missing something.
You aren't missing anything. We were at crossed purposes ... I was talking about the pins on the WABCO ECU being shiny. You were down at the hubs.
Our garage had the WABCO partly unscrewed from the bulkhead then ran out of time, so we removed the final screw (damaged thread) and unplugged all three for a look to see if the leak into the foot well had affected it ... Dry as a bone, all pins and plugs pristine.
Going to check the sensor input plug pins with multimeter now. Should be 1.2k Ohms. I guess I'm looking for half that across a pair? Or maybe a zero resistance which shouldn't be there ... I gather they are two-wire.
Gilbertd wrote:
If I remember correctly, resistance of the sensors is around 1.2kOhms although the one sensor short to another fault is a known one with the Wabco D ECU and it may just be pure coincidence that it happened after you had been working on the hubs.
Hi! I'm glad to see you're still an active member here!
I'll pop out with a multimeter in a minute and check them.
When you say this is a known fault with the WABCO D, do you mean the ECU is faulty, or it is reporting a phantom fault?
I'm not exactly sure what you mean.
Unrelated to the ABS/TCS problem, we had water ingress in the passenger side foot well which took down the ODB port. Replaced pollen and plenum filters to cure the leak.
We removed the glovebox and the OBD was wet but the WABCO unit and all 3 plugs are bone dry and shiny. They are pretty widely spaced, I don't see how they could go into the wrong plug hole ...
Besides which, it all worked flawlessly before the hubs were changed.
I also don't see how wiring in the loom would have been damaged, except near the hub sensors. Where it should be obvious ...
I'd love some resistance or voltage values to probe for ... Or even just the pin-outs so we can find which pair of sensors the ECU thinks are shorting.
Both front hubs recently changed due to bearing wear.
ABS sensors didn't make it out alive.
However, Front Right threw a wobbly a few miles later.
Replaced under warranty at no charge.
However, the problem has come back again, again not present for garage test drive.
Nanocom says:
12-05 FRONT RIGHT SENSOR SHORT TO ANOTHER 012 TIMES
We have glove box out and WABCO available for testing of the unit, or multimeter and oscilloscope readings from the plug pins. Though the latter would presumably require some messing about to supply power?
All pins in the unit are shiny and free of green or blue deposits.
Background:
Both hubs and ABS sensors have been recently replaced.
After both visits, the Front/Right ABS sensor came up as faulty/shorted after a few days (replaced under warranty after the first time).
Traction failure normally comes on first in 90 degree right hand turns.
ABS comes on a few miles later.
Both my Nanocom and my specialist's Logic say front right sensor has failed.
But two in a row, always right-hand side? Has anyone seen that before?
Got it through.
On a hunch, I wondered if the conical air filter had been leaking for a while and thrown the long and short range trim out.
I reseated the adaptor ring, tightened the knock-off Jubilee for the conical air filter as much as I dare and clipped it back on.
Used my Nanocom to RESET ADAPTIVE VARIABLES.
Stuck it in SPORT, used D3 and D2 and ragged the nuts off it on the way to the test centre. It has a rev limiter!
Resubmitted for emissions on petrol just to eliminate the Prins as the problem.
PASSED.
Car has been stood over the (prolonged) winter. Got it started and idle was lumpy. Let it warm up, revved it a few times, fault seemed to clear. Stuck it in SPORT and gave it some beans on the way to MoT.
No faults found except CO emissions 3.5 percent on fast and slow idle tests. He also said they were okay initially, but started rising.
It was presented and tested with the PRINS LPG engaged and fuel level showing 3-4 lights.
The car has a conical air filter, which had disconnected from the inlet. Timescale unknown. It has passed successfully with that mod.
I've Googled a few probable causes (a couple with exact match to circumstances) but prefer to see if anyone here confirms them.
I have a Nanocom, but no idea what to look for in live readings.
Car is SORNed so I'm very limited re: test driving.
Cool. I'll try that in the morning Cheers!
Mine's been mothballed over the winter.
Starter spins but doesn't engage.
The spiral thingy that pokes it in is clearly stuck.
Will dipping the entire car in WD40 sort it? Joking aside, will some penetrating spray in the right place do it, or am I under the bloody thing AGAIN?
Cheers!
Sooz car cut out today just after driving through a puddle then started when recovery arrived.
Symptoms match CKP failure which happened a year ago, and has been replaced. I want to check the connector for water ingress.
Can I access the CKP connector and wiring without taking off the wheel and removing the arch liner? Most photos online are close ups. I'll look in RAVE tomorrow but I'm looking to check it, not replace it.
Bugger.
Accidentally picked up the Light Green/Black wires.
All sorted.
Take 2:
I bought this tone generator: allsun Automotive Short Circuit Tester Finder Cable Tester Wire Tracker Detector Tone Generator EM415PRO https://amzn.eu/d/bTFyJJz
All trim and kick-plates are off but carpet is still down on passenger side. Traces all the way from the load area to the female plug under the driver's seat IF it's UNPLUGGED.
EDITED:
Tone can be detected all the way from the load area to the door on both wires... I assumed all the soaking in Contact Cleaner and cycling if the plug had fixed it.
I vote the car front to back not left to right like JLR So FR is Front Right and FL is Front Left. The crossovers say woofer so I use W in the codes but call the speakers bass.
To eliminate the FR crossover I connected the FLW wires to the currently vacant FRW terminals: Sound from FL bass driver.
To eliminate the FR bass speaker (again) I connected it into the FL door: Sound from FL bass driver.
Left FR bass in FL door because there's no point switching it back when I know both of them work.
Switched FL bass wires back to FL crossover. Tested and still working.
So, I now have GR/BL and BL/GR wires for FR which pass the test tone all the way from the load area to the door and a known working speaker from the FL door.
Fitted and connected FL bass to FR door, reconnected GR/BL and BL/GR wires to the (now) known good FR crossover.
Silence. Nothing. Nada. Null point.
Progress of sorts. Found the connector under the driver's seat, Thank you!
The wiring through the elbow sheath in the door to the male plug is intact. I tested one of the suspect wires in the female plug to the load area and it's broken.
1 is there a second plug over the passenger side? i.e. is the production line split left and right with one station putting in bridge components across the middle?
2 is it worth buying a tone generator and probe for £25?
As I love to have more than one can of worms open at the same time... Has anyone found a way to eliminate the potentiometers from the EAS Height sensors using a rotary encoder or the Hall effect sensors from the L332?
Thanks, Marty!
I found the small grey connector in the A-pillar. 5 wires, a pair for mid/hi, a pair for bass and (bizarrely) a wire which controls the tailgate release.
The mid/hi pair both show continuity to the back of the car (I made up an extended lead for my meter). The wire for the tailgate is fine, too, because that works and stops when we unplug it.
Viewing the female plug from the front the bass speakers are pins 3 and 4 with the mid/hi in 1 and 2 and tailgate on 5. There was a tiny bit of blue/green but it's been hosed with WD40 Fast Drying Contact Cleaner. No continuity to the load area, no sound.
The failure of the pair is very odd, particularly as the mid/hi follow the same route...
Should they be twisted for the whole run? Sooz found some running straight in some of the bunches.
That connector under the seat is my last hope of finding an obvious failure. Thanks, mate!
PS Is it possible to feed a signal into the wire and non-destructively detect the break or is 12v too low?