Cool. I'll try that in the morning Cheers!

Mine's been mothballed over the winter.

Starter spins but doesn't engage.

The spiral thingy that pokes it in is clearly stuck.

Will dipping the entire car in WD40 sort it? Joking aside, will some penetrating spray in the right place do it, or am I under the bloody thing AGAIN?

Cheers!

Sooz car cut out today just after driving through a puddle then started when recovery arrived.

Symptoms match CKP failure which happened a year ago, and has been replaced. I want to check the connector for water ingress.

Can I access the CKP connector and wiring without taking off the wheel and removing the arch liner? Most photos online are close ups. I'll look in RAVE tomorrow but I'm looking to check it, not replace it.

Bugger.

Accidentally picked up the Light Green/Black wires.

All sorted.

Take 2:

I bought this tone generator: allsun Automotive Short Circuit Tester Finder Cable Tester Wire Tracker Detector Tone Generator EM415PRO https://amzn.eu/d/bTFyJJz

All trim and kick-plates are off but carpet is still down on passenger side. Traces all the way from the load area to the female plug under the driver's seat IF it's UNPLUGGED.

EDITED:

Tone can be detected all the way from the load area to the door on both wires... I assumed all the soaking in Contact Cleaner and cycling if the plug had fixed it.

I vote the car front to back not left to right like JLR So FR is Front Right and FL is Front Left. The crossovers say woofer so I use W in the codes but call the speakers bass.

To eliminate the FR crossover I connected the FLW wires to the currently vacant FRW terminals: Sound from FL bass driver.

To eliminate the FR bass speaker (again) I connected it into the FL door: Sound from FL bass driver.

Left FR bass in FL door because there's no point switching it back when I know both of them work.

Switched FL bass wires back to FL crossover. Tested and still working.

So, I now have GR/BL and BL/GR wires for FR which pass the test tone all the way from the load area to the door and a known working speaker from the FL door.

Fitted and connected FL bass to FR door, reconnected GR/BL and BL/GR wires to the (now) known good FR crossover.

Silence. Nothing. Nada. Null point.

Progress of sorts. Found the connector under the driver's seat, Thank you!

The wiring through the elbow sheath in the door to the male plug is intact. I tested one of the suspect wires in the female plug to the load area and it's broken.

1 is there a second plug over the passenger side? i.e. is the production line split left and right with one station putting in bridge components across the middle?

2 is it worth buying a tone generator and probe for £25?

As I love to have more than one can of worms open at the same time... Has anyone found a way to eliminate the potentiometers from the EAS Height sensors using a rotary encoder or the Hall effect sensors from the L332?

Thanks, Marty!

I found the small grey connector in the A-pillar. 5 wires, a pair for mid/hi, a pair for bass and (bizarrely) a wire which controls the tailgate release.

The mid/hi pair both show continuity to the back of the car (I made up an extended lead for my meter). The wire for the tailgate is fine, too, because that works and stops when we unplug it.

Viewing the female plug from the front the bass speakers are pins 3 and 4 with the mid/hi in 1 and 2 and tailgate on 5. There was a tiny bit of blue/green but it's been hosed with WD40 Fast Drying Contact Cleaner. No continuity to the load area, no sound.

The failure of the pair is very odd, particularly as the mid/hi follow the same route...

Should they be twisted for the whole run? Sooz found some running straight in some of the bunches.

That connector under the seat is my last hope of finding an obvious failure. Thanks, mate!

PS Is it possible to feed a signal into the wire and non-destructively detect the break or is 12v too low?

Thanks, Marty. we'd never have found that without your advice. I'll attempt to insert an image and hope an admin can tweak it to work.

Both doors have the same wiring colours. LH door matches the loom as described in your spreadsheet, RH door mismatched as shown in the image:

Yellow/White door wires change to Black/White and Green/Yellow door wires change to Green/Black. Nightmare.

Surprisingly, continuity through the sheath into the door is fine. The cable run to the back is knackered for BOTH Black/Green and Green/Black twisted pair. The adjacent ones for mid/hi are fine... Seems a bit odd.

I'm not in the mood for even more trim removal now, so will tackle it tomorrow. Thanks again to you and to Gilbert.

PS Where does the loom cross from driver's side to the passenger's side where the DSP was?

Thanks, Marty! We were at our wits end. We traced the Green\Yellow, Yellow\Green wires to the elbow between the door and the car. I thought they went down into the footwell and backwards under the kick plates, but they aren't in any of the connectors behind that footwell side panel.

Tried following them from the sheath entry with a borescope shoved into the gap at the side of the dashboard but didn't get far with that idea. I'll pop off the A-pillar trim and have a look.

Thanks, mate. I found a YouTube where a guy had rear door speakers probs and the cause was exactly what you describe.

I've removed the soil kick plate and d/s kick panel have disconnected all the connectors. All are annoyingly bright and clean!

I aborted due to the heat but will get back on it today and report back.

The speaker wires seem to be whatever they had in abundance when they deleted the door amplifiers!

The bass speaker on my driver's door is silent.

I substituted a known good one from a back door: nothing.

I note the wire colours in the doors bear no resemblance the the ones coming out of the crossovers in the load area. In fact both front doors have the same colour pairs for mid/hi and bass.

There's no continuity from the Black/Green wire in the load area to either of the spade connectors in the T-piece at the RH door.

Next moves?

I didn't expect anyone else to be up and edited my post... Doh!

So that's a simple solder inline on a bodged 2-wire from the radio on its input, to the Orange and Black Orange on the output, then smother in PVC tape? :-)

Will one of those transformers balance the RCA pre-outs from the new radio to feed into the twisted pair wires?

I missed the second link initially. I've found loads of DRV134PA 2.0 Channel Single-ended Balanced Boards... complete with clamps for power and inputs and XLR outputs.

1) None of them are boxed.
2) I assume I need to buy a female inline XLR and connect the Orange wire to hot pin, the Black and Orange to cold pin and a Ground to the third.

Thank you. Sleep well.

Do you mean disconnect the black wire or the black and orange?

I don't really understand what balancing means. I known the XLR cables uses in sound systems are balanced. I saw a YouTube of a guy using a cable similar to coaxial, but with two wires in the middle, plus a shield. He wrapped the shield around the wire he was using for ground, linking the shield electrically and physically.

I created an RCA with a short piece of coaxial cable and soldered the core to the orange wire and the shield to the black and orange. It's not the same, but whatever the physics is, I don't see the difference.

I assume the DSP board was either balancing everything or using capacities to kill the hum? Components of it may be much higher than my estimate, it's high enough that my high frequency hearing loss (>15k) is making it seem quieter to me than what my wife is hearing.

I've got everything installed and working except the front right mid/bass which has probably seized. I'll sort that later. However, I have a whining noise coming from the subwoofer. Sounds about 100-150Hz. I have a film clip but as images don't tend to work for me here... The Internet suggested a ground loop as a likely cause so... At the back I've grounded the black cable from the, now redundant, C0491 to the body by the bracket which held the DSP board. Up front I tested the crimp on the black wire into the head unit against a bolt head, and got a tone from the meter. Didn't cure the problem.

romanrob wrote:

hi Chasman,

How did the refurb go? Any speakers that you would recommend (& links)?

Pretty simple, actually. I moved the amplifier into the bottom of the enclosure using some plastic standoff washers to stop it bending over the diagonal rib.

Hawkeng 6mm (M6) Nylon Spacers Standoff Washers (12 Pack) 4 x 15mm, 4 x 10mm, 4 x 5mm - Black https://amzn.eu/d/2ZHxfzj

Use Nyloc nuts so they don't vibrate undone.

I just went into my local Halfords and asked for 6.5 inch mid/bass speakers. They sound great, adding depth without overwhelming everything else. I didn't even keep the box, sorry!