Thanks, Marty. we'd never have found that without your advice. I'll attempt to insert an image and hope an admin can tweak it to work.
Both doors have the same wiring colours. LH door matches the loom as described in your spreadsheet, RH door mismatched as shown in the image:
Yellow/White door wires change to Black/White and Green/Yellow door wires change to Green/Black. Nightmare.
Surprisingly, continuity through the sheath into the door is fine. The cable run to the back is knackered for BOTH Black/Green and Green/Black twisted pair. The adjacent ones for mid/hi are fine... Seems a bit odd.
I'm not in the mood for even more trim removal now, so will tackle it tomorrow. Thanks again to you and to Gilbert.
PS Where does the loom cross from driver's side to the passenger's side where the DSP was?
Thanks, Marty! We were at our wits end. We traced the Green\Yellow, Yellow\Green wires to the elbow between the door and the car. I thought they went down into the footwell and backwards under the kick plates, but they aren't in any of the connectors behind that footwell side panel.
Tried following them from the sheath entry with a borescope shoved into the gap at the side of the dashboard but didn't get far with that idea. I'll pop off the A-pillar trim and have a look.
Thanks, mate. I found a YouTube where a guy had rear door speakers probs and the cause was exactly what you describe.
I've removed the soil kick plate and d/s kick panel have disconnected all the connectors. All are annoyingly bright and clean!
I aborted due to the heat but will get back on it today and report back.
The speaker wires seem to be whatever they had in abundance when they deleted the door amplifiers!
The bass speaker on my driver's door is silent.
I substituted a known good one from a back door: nothing.
I note the wire colours in the doors bear no resemblance the the ones coming out of the crossovers in the load area. In fact both front doors have the same colour pairs for mid/hi and bass.
There's no continuity from the Black/Green wire in the load area to either of the spade connectors in the T-piece at the RH door.
Next moves?
I didn't expect anyone else to be up and edited my post... Doh!
So that's a simple solder inline on a bodged 2-wire from the radio on its input, to the Orange and Black Orange on the output, then smother in PVC tape? :-)
Will one of those transformers balance the RCA pre-outs from the new radio to feed into the twisted pair wires?
I missed the second link initially. I've found loads of DRV134PA 2.0 Channel Single-ended Balanced Boards... complete with clamps for power and inputs and XLR outputs.
1) None of them are boxed.
2) I assume I need to buy a female inline XLR and connect the Orange wire to hot pin, the Black and Orange to cold pin and a Ground to the third.
Thank you. Sleep well.
Do you mean disconnect the black wire or the black and orange?
I don't really understand what balancing means. I known the XLR cables uses in sound systems are balanced. I saw a YouTube of a guy using a cable similar to coaxial, but with two wires in the middle, plus a shield. He wrapped the shield around the wire he was using for ground, linking the shield electrically and physically.
I created an RCA with a short piece of coaxial cable and soldered the core to the orange wire and the shield to the black and orange. It's not the same, but whatever the physics is, I don't see the difference.
I assume the DSP board was either balancing everything or using capacities to kill the hum? Components of it may be much higher than my estimate, it's high enough that my high frequency hearing loss (>15k) is making it seem quieter to me than what my wife is hearing.
I've got everything installed and working except the front right mid/bass which has probably seized. I'll sort that later. However, I have a whining noise coming from the subwoofer. Sounds about 100-150Hz. I have a film clip but as images don't tend to work for me here... The Internet suggested a ground loop as a likely cause so... At the back I've grounded the black cable from the, now redundant, C0491 to the body by the bracket which held the DSP board. Up front I tested the crimp on the black wire into the head unit against a bolt head, and got a tone from the meter. Didn't cure the problem.
romanrob wrote:
hi Chasman,
How did the refurb go? Any speakers that you would recommend (& links)?
Pretty simple, actually. I moved the amplifier into the bottom of the enclosure using some plastic standoff washers to stop it bending over the diagonal rib.
Hawkeng 6mm (M6) Nylon Spacers Standoff Washers (12 Pack) 4 x 15mm, 4 x 10mm, 4 x 5mm - Black https://amzn.eu/d/2ZHxfzj
Use Nyloc nuts so they don't vibrate undone.
I just went into my local Halfords and asked for 6.5 inch mid/bass speakers. They sound great, adding depth without overwhelming everything else. I didn't even keep the box, sorry!
Gilbertd wrote:
No, that is the same unit my daughter has in her Toyota Celica. It has preouts but it also has speaker level outputs on the DIN connectors so you ignore the front and rear, left and right outputs.
Yes, the existing P38 sub has a built in amp, but you will need to connect the sense wire to the electric aerial output on the head unit to cause it to power up
You could run two subs or some subs want a stereo input (which is a bit pointless).
I'm a big fan of the Kenwood stuff, I've got a KDC-BT73DAB (previous version of the current KDC-BT760DAB except it has a better 3 line display) in mine and I can't fault it.
Thank goodness I've got a working solution!
I assume the electric aerial pin is hidden in the ISO (DIN?) with the speakers?
EDIT: found it on pin 8!
Thanks Gilbert
EDIT: DO NOT DO USE THIS UNIT
IT'S A DOUBLE DIN UNIT WITH CD. IT IS TOO BIG AND TOO DEEP FOR THE HOLE WHERE THE SATNAV WOULD GO.
WILL USE THE ONES GILBERT RECOMMENDS IN THE NEXT POST.
Okay peeps. Total change of plan, I want to fit a Kenwood DPX-7300DAB and use Gilbertd's rewiring guide.
https://www.kenwood.eu/car/receivers/dab_cd/DPX-7300DAB/
It has 6 RCA outputs (front, rear and subwoofer) all described as "preouts"... that said, they are 2.5V, so apparently 50W per channel... Not sure where that number comes from.
Q1 Does that mean I need the 4 amplifier kits in the pinned post?
Q2 Does the subwoofer have it's own amplifier?
Q3 Is the second subwoofer RCA for running 2 subwoofers?
If I want to bin it, is there a two box solution where I can replace the DSP amplifier and head unit, leaving everything else in-situ? I'd rather not have to remove all 4 door cards.
Thinking of using this to dissolve epoxy if necessary:
https://www.mapei.com/it/en/products-and-solutions/products/detail/ultracare-epoxy-off-gel
However, I think it's the power supply. As there are two DSP chips, blowing both seems unlikely, blowing one would only affect one side.
Having this blow after my successful subwoofer rebuild has put me into a bad mood. It's like that fairground game where you hit gophers with a mallet... tempting...
I'll buy a £50 parts only one and take a look.
Thanks for the quick reply. Why aren't they repairable?
The the "radio" isn't working from any source. Total silence. It made a very loud pop in all speakers (esp the subwoofer) when I turned on the ignition a few days ago and hasn't worked since.
I checked all the under seat fuses. All good
I assume I've blown up my main amp and a professional installer has told me a) they blow up often, chiefly due to water damage b) Harman Kardon units are NOT repairable.
Prices on eBay are wild... From £50 to £300.
Please tell me what I need to know...
Cheers!