Gilbertd wrote:

1. No, that is the same unit my daughter has in her Toyota Celica. It has preouts but it also has speaker level outputs on the DIN connectors so you ignore the front and rear, left and right outputs.

2. Yes, the existing P38 sub has a built in amp, but you will need to connect the sense wire to the electric aerial output on the head unit to cause it to power up

3. You could run two subs or some subs want a stereo input (which is a bit pointless).

I'm a big fan of the Kenwood stuff, I've got a KDC-BT73DAB (previous version of the current KDC-BT760DAB except it has a better 3 line display) in mine and I can't fault it.

Thank goodness I've got a working solution!

I assume the electric aerial pin is hidden in the ISO (DIN?) with the speakers?

EDIT: found it on pin 8!

Thanks Gilbert

EDIT: DO NOT DO USE THIS UNIT

IT'S A DOUBLE DIN UNIT WITH CD. IT IS TOO BIG AND TOO DEEP FOR THE HOLE WHERE THE SATNAV WOULD GO.

WILL USE THE ONES GILBERT RECOMMENDS IN THE NEXT POST.

Okay peeps. Total change of plan, I want to fit a Kenwood DPX-7300DAB and use Gilbertd's rewiring guide.

https://www.kenwood.eu/car/receivers/dab_cd/DPX-7300DAB/

It has 6 RCA outputs (front, rear and subwoofer) all described as "preouts"... that said, they are 2.5V, so apparently 50W per channel... Not sure where that number comes from.

Q1 Does that mean I need the 4 amplifier kits in the pinned post?

Q2 Does the subwoofer have it's own amplifier?

Q3 Is the second subwoofer RCA for running 2 subwoofers?

Gilbertd wrote:

Marty supplied the original information...

Cool! Thank you.

If I want to bin it, is there a two box solution where I can replace the DSP amplifier and head unit, leaving everything else in-situ? I'd rather not have to remove all 4 door cards.

Thinking of using this to dissolve epoxy if necessary:

https://www.mapei.com/it/en/products-and-solutions/products/detail/ultracare-epoxy-off-gel

However, I think it's the power supply. As there are two DSP chips, blowing both seems unlikely, blowing one would only affect one side.

Having this blow after my successful subwoofer rebuild has put me into a bad mood. It's like that fairground game where you hit gophers with a mallet... tempting...

I'll buy a £50 parts only one and take a look.

Thanks for the quick reply. Why aren't they repairable?

The the "radio" isn't working from any source. Total silence. It made a very loud pop in all speakers (esp the subwoofer) when I turned on the ignition a few days ago and hasn't worked since.

I checked all the under seat fuses. All good

I assume I've blown up my main amp and a professional installer has told me a) they blow up often, chiefly due to water damage b) Harman Kardon units are NOT repairable.

Prices on eBay are wild... From £50 to £300.

Please tell me what I need to know...

Cheers!

Good board from my car from previous MY. No Faraday cage. Is the sub-board a filter? (Wrote this before hearing how Marty solved it).

We need both cars working for Monday so we'll leave the faulty car on charge and in the furthest space.

3rd gen boards like this one are £169.49 from East Coast 4x4. There's 200 percent brand tax on the LR version from LR Direct so we've ignored that.

I assume we'll need to use the Nanocom to match the 4 digit codes? Sooz car wouldn't start without it fitted.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LvJyc7zxu1CVGMWo9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PJ3DnvM3NfcuPtSn6

This is the bad one from Sooz 2001 car.
It's screened.

If pic doesn't work can we work through fixing it. It's worth a thousand words! No text or description changes, tag direct from forum software

Right. Humble pie time.

Pulling the EAS timer hadn't stopped the cycling, just as you' predicted. We didn't wait long enough. It did reduce the current to 0.55. But running was still 2.0/2.5 mins.

Sooz followed the flow chart, mapped it back to the fuses and found F15 to be the cure:

• Rear Wiper
• RF Receiver
• Tailgate Central Locking
• Left and Right Hand Amps
• Subwoofer
• Load Area Lamps

From your advice I concluded I dismissed the RF in haste. We swapped the cars around. They're literally side by side.

The cycling has stopped. Only at this point I remembered Mr Griffith's the physics teacher saying "All electromagnetic waves are inversely proportional to the square of the distance from the source "

That means the car has around 1/9th to 1/16th less signal in the space furthest from my workshop. Which used to be my home office and has a burglar alarm and WiFi access point...

My car, oddly, is unaffected by being closer. We're pulling out Sooz RF module for comparison.

Thanks again. Humble pie is yummy now we are closing in on a fix.

Okay, removing the EAS delay relay stopped the cycling. Thank you!

Sooz is going over the flowchart to decide what keeps waking it up, as she designs train signalling systems for a living.

I'm looking forward to just following instructions for the rest of the day!

davew wrote:

Guessing you already know about the alarm/RF problem plus the BeCM staying awake for over 2 minutes etc ? If not search for BeCM SID on here...
As for the 0.8-.9A drain it could be a few things (!!) but I would start with the EAS... so try pulling out its Timer Relay under the LH seat ?!

Probably the easiest way to 'bypass the drivers door switch' is just to use a screwdriver to simulate the striker ?
Needs a calm environment (eg. garage) of course due to motion detector (alarm)

I'm aware of the RF issue, we fell foul of CCTV in my car. But my almost identical (1 year younger) Vogue parked next to hers isn't showing the same symptom. I've also seen the joke "solution" with the aluminium box on the circuit board.

I thought the BeCM timeout was longer, so I've been giving it 15 minutes.

We've removed the CD changer and Satnav from the boot area. Satnav head unit TBA.

Thanks for the tip about the black timer relay. Wed pulled the under bonnet one with fuse F29 (but missed fuse F40). I'll put those back and do what you said.

I'll see if can figure out where to stick the screwdriver for the drivers door!

Thanks for the help. This forum is priceless.

PS I'm leaning towards it being something inside the car, as there's a lot of stuff powered while ignition is off, right?

Sooz car is flattening its battery every couple of days. I've invested in a Kaiweets HT206D Amp Clamp and nerfed the bonnet switch so everything sleeps with the bonnet up. The pattern after leaving the car double locked over an hour is 0.25-0.35 for 2 mins, then 0.80-090 for 2.5 minutes. My plan is to pull each fuse during the high drain phase to see when it drops, and by how much.

1 Does anyone recognise this pattern?

2 How do I bypass the driver's side door switch to test the ones under the seat if the under-bonnet fuses don't reveal a problem?

The cones in the subwoofer if my P38 Vogue have shredded. I'd post a picture but I can never get it to work.

It is an XQA100070.

They measure 3 ohms, so must be 4 with impedance...

But I'm clueless on power for speaker systems.

Thanks everyone. The hologram thing is a great tip, but I normally buy from reputable outlets. Your comments have put me off eBay!

Bosch F 00C 2G2 029

Rare as rocking horse poop and obscenely expensive.

1 What's the Bosch part number for the MAF without the plastic tunnel?

Euro Car Parts are taking the p*** at £200 for the tunnel version.

2 Would you ever buy a non-Bosch copy?

Found it. It doesn't look great.

enter link description here

My 2000 P38 Vogue is starts okay, after a minute or two RPM drops below 500 and is, understandably lumpy. This lasts for about 30-40 seconds, then recovers.

It's been doing it for a while but has recently become much worse.

MAF was replaced about 20k ago.