The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
74 posts

On Sooz '02 Vogue both door mirrors dip perfectly when you select reverse. Coming out of reverse only the right hand (driver's) door returns to the normal position.

However, the passenger door mirror can be set back where it should be using the controls in the centre console. But it's a ball/ovary ache.

Ideas, please.

One of my rear bumper mounts has rusted through so it's dangling on one side just rear of the wheel arch...

1 Will it fail my MoT test on the 4th Jan?
2 Fix or replace? I know a welder/fabricator...

Ferrule? in forum Oily bits

I'm finally back on my Viair upgrade.

There's no room for it on the small ledge inboard of the EAS housing. I'm going to mount it remotely on the firewall and run a 6mm tube into the housing. Extending the wiring is trivial.

Can anyone tell me the correct name for the little brass ring INSIDE the little blue pipe we connect to the compressor? I know it's not an olive - wrong shape, it has a shoulder. More like a top hat. Is it a ferrule?

I'm just looking for confirmation.

Saw a thread on dead EAS where someone jacked up the rear axle to access height and the system recovered. The hypothesis is that some cars go so far out of range when deflated the ECU throws in the towel.

Any grain of truth to this?

I want to work on the steering wheel buttons and cassette. Is there any way to remove the airbag without disconnecting the battery? I've had key problems and don't want the hassle.

Also, is there a way to test the cassette? None of my controls for cruise, ICE, etc. are working.

Dead EAS in forum Oily bits

This is a weird one.

Just switched the valve block in Sooz' car. We also refurbed the air dryer to get rid of the powder and cleaned the pipes.

Her compressor had died so we reconditioned and refitted it But it wouldn't run even when we used a jumper in the relay. We swapped in the compressor from my car and that worked fine. BUT... it never stops running, the system won't pressurise. It won't even rise from the bump stops to Access.

Since the new valve block is from eBay with an X8R kit fitted it's an unknown quantity.

We've made the classic error of changing so many things in one go we have no idea where the point of failure is. Have a Nanocom but no clue what to look for.

I've sprayed everything except the bottom air dryer collet with leak detector. Nothing. Can't feel any air leak by hand.

Where's the best place to put a T-piece for a pressure gauge for the EAS and what hardware do I need?

Does anyone on here have a rig to bench test rebuilt valve blocks?

Sooz is refurbing the nearly new compressor from her car and found telltale white powder from failed air dryer desiccant. That explains the premature failure.

She's 75% through rebuilding a different valve block soon that's sorted.

We have air dryer refurb kits including foil packed desiccant.

Two questions:

1 Where else can we clean up residue while we're changing all the major elements? I'm hoping most has been blown through into the air springs.

2 Is the block currently on the car buggered or can it be cleaned and refurbished?

Backstory: We have two P38s. A Black/grey interior Vogue 2000(W) on 125k and an Oslo Blue/cream interior 2001(51)on 67k-ish. We've had mine (the Black one) 6 or 7 years and Sooz for about 2 years. Both cars have replacement OE air springs. During that time, we've seen off 4 EAS compressors. Enough is enough.

We bought the current compressor in the blue car brand new from a reputable vendor with solid feedback and the serial number checked out with Dunlop. First it became very noisy, then the cut-out failed, all within a few months. It currently has a replacement glommed on the outside and spliced into the loom on the compressor cabling. But there's more.

The pump still goes through phases of loud vibration, then quiet. We stripped it and eye-balling it all looks fine. The loud phases reverberate though the whole car - makes a sound like something in the wheel arch, but it has done that in both cars so we know it is the compressor. We leak checked both cars by pulling fuse 29. Mine stayed up. Sooz sagged on one side of the back axle. Valve block and X8R valve block refurb kit are here awaiting her return. That explains, but does not excuse, the catastrophic failure of the pump after such a short time. I neither know nor care what's causing the noise or why the stat failed. It's going in the bin rather than waste the X8R compressor refurb kit in the workshop. As the blue car is completely stock, we'll keep it that way. We'll refurb the valve block and put the working pump from my car in there. Yes, my wife works on the cars with me. No, she's spoken for!

In consultation with the hive mind of the internet and Gilbertd, I've sourced a Viair 380C for the bargain price of £175. This has a 55% duty cycle and flow rate more than three times the stock pump. Vendor seems solid and I've used PayPal for added protection. Photos have disappeared from many of the threads I used to research this. The wiring looks (sounds) to be simple, with the orange wire now redundant and connected to the black ground wire, it's just a two-wire switched supply. However, If anyone has some pics relating to mounting and tidily hacking the existing enclosure, I'd be very grateful. I know I can mount it in parallel and keep the old pump as a bakup but I'm in Somerset, not Western Australia, so I'd prefer to go all in on the new unit. For our part, we'll take detailed pics and post back here for anyone interested in the pros and cons of what I'm about to attempt.

I'd like to finish with a simple question.

Does anyone known exactly what size and gender of NPT reducer I'll need to join the new compressor to the blue pipe?

Having successfully fixed the over temp sensor in my car (photos soon) we realised my wife's car has an issue.

Even with the inhibit switch pressed with the height set to Standard her compressor is running every 20-30 minutes and the car sags right overnight.

What are the first things to check in order of probability?

Do people refurbish these or buy an off the shelf alternative? A lightweight corrosion resistant composite would be nice. Fittings are standardised, aren't they?


Orange and black wires are connected.
Maxi Fuse 2 intact.
Relay 2 works in Syckes-Pickavant tester.
Removing relay and jumping 3 and 5 runs pump.
ECU switch for another LRPN: ANR4499

Trim Stud in forum Oily bits

Three of them hold up the kick panel under the glove box.

Anyone know the part number for this?

Replacing ABS sensor (front right}.

1 HTF do you pull it out?

2 How do you squeeze both buttons on the plug at the other end?

3 Two lower clips have dissolved. Are there part numbers and are they still available?

Found this. Driver's side in front of the battery.

Stray Plug
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Clean Inside
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It's very clean so seems to have been plugged in until recently. Wires are white\purple and black\purple.

Any ideas?

Does anyone know the part number for the little metal cylinder which joins the automatic gear selector to the switch on the gearbox? Wear can be a cause of an inability to select Park.

Is anyone out there refurbishing these? My second one has just failed. All controls dead. They all wear out eventually and we're going to run out if someone doesn't figure out a repair.

Anyone know the part number for the clips which hold on the pillar trims?

Yes I know I can get some bent corroded ones from a scrapyard.

Ordered these but they don't look quite right.


Also what is the black foam tape they use to stop them rattling? I'm guessing PVC insulating take will do but if I can get the right stuff...

Currently I'm using a Bluetooth hands free in the cigarette lighter with an AUX OUT into one of those clever little cassette adaptors. Not the highest quality mic on calls but a really simple setup. I can use Google Voice commands to skip tracks and make calls.

I'd like something with a sun visor mic and more state of the art with DAB.

Is a unit like the PURE Highway 600 the way to go or should I go the whole hog and get a touchscreen multimedia unit?

There's no GPS so I can install in place of the oddments cubby hole. There are ready made ISO adaptor rigs on eBay.

I've seen the setting for UK Police in the Nanocom.

During my little project to replace the electrochromic mirror with a reversing\crash camera I think I've spotted the plug for the roof lights.

Does anyone know where the switch pack went in the dashboard? What did it look like? How many unicorns do I need to buy one? Thinking of fitting an LED light bar.

Bonus points for recognising the movie reference in the title.