Both front hubs recently changed due to bearing wear.
ABS sensors didn't make it out alive.
However, Front Right threw a wobbly a few miles later.
Replaced under warranty at no charge.
However, the problem has come back again, again not present for garage test drive.

Nanocom says:
12-05 FRONT RIGHT SENSOR SHORT TO ANOTHER 012 TIMES

We have glove box out and WABCO available for testing of the unit, or multimeter and oscilloscope readings from the plug pins. Though the latter would presumably require some messing about to supply power?

All pins in the unit are shiny and free of green or blue deposits.

Background:
Both hubs and ABS sensors have been recently replaced.
After both visits, the Front/Right ABS sensor came up as faulty/shorted after a few days (replaced under warranty after the first time).
Traction failure normally comes on first in 90 degree right hand turns.
ABS comes on a few miles later.

Both my Nanocom and my specialist's Logic say front right sensor has failed.

But two in a row, always right-hand side? Has anyone seen that before?

Car has been stood over the (prolonged) winter. Got it started and idle was lumpy. Let it warm up, revved it a few times, fault seemed to clear. Stuck it in SPORT and gave it some beans on the way to MoT.

No faults found except CO emissions 3.5 percent on fast and slow idle tests. He also said they were okay initially, but started rising.

It was presented and tested with the PRINS LPG engaged and fuel level showing 3-4 lights.

The car has a conical air filter, which had disconnected from the inlet. Timescale unknown. It has passed successfully with that mod.

I've Googled a few probable causes (a couple with exact match to circumstances) but prefer to see if anyone here confirms them.

I have a Nanocom, but no idea what to look for in live readings.

Car is SORNed so I'm very limited re: test driving.

Sooz car cut out today just after driving through a puddle then started when recovery arrived.

Symptoms match CKP failure which happened a year ago, and has been replaced. I want to check the connector for water ingress.

Can I access the CKP connector and wiring without taking off the wheel and removing the arch liner? Most photos online are close ups. I'll look in RAVE tomorrow but I'm looking to check it, not replace it.

As I love to have more than one can of worms open at the same time... Has anyone found a way to eliminate the potentiometers from the EAS Height sensors using a rotary encoder or the Hall effect sensors from the L332?

The bass speaker on my driver's door is silent.

I substituted a known good one from a back door: nothing.

I note the wire colours in the doors bear no resemblance the the ones coming out of the crossovers in the load area. In fact both front doors have the same colour pairs for mid/hi and bass.

There's no continuity from the Black/Green wire in the load area to either of the spade connectors in the T-piece at the RH door.

Next moves?

The the "radio" isn't working from any source. Total silence. It made a very loud pop in all speakers (esp the subwoofer) when I turned on the ignition a few days ago and hasn't worked since.

I checked all the under seat fuses. All good

I assume I've blown up my main amp and a professional installer has told me a) they blow up often, chiefly due to water damage b) Harman Kardon units are NOT repairable.

Prices on eBay are wild... From £50 to £300.

Please tell me what I need to know...

Sooz car is flattening its battery every couple of days. I've invested in a Kaiweets HT206D Amp Clamp and nerfed the bonnet switch so everything sleeps with the bonnet up. The pattern after leaving the car double locked over an hour is 0.25-0.35 for 2 mins, then 0.80-090 for 2.5 minutes. My plan is to pull each fuse during the high drain phase to see when it drops, and by how much.

1 Does anyone recognise this pattern?

2 How do I bypass the driver's side door switch to test the ones under the seat if the under-bonnet fuses don't reveal a problem?

The cones in the subwoofer if my P38 Vogue have shredded. I'd post a picture but I can never get it to work.

It is an XQA100070.

They measure 3 ohms, so must be 4 with impedance...

But I'm clueless on power for speaker systems.

1 What's the Bosch part number for the MAF without the plastic tunnel?

Euro Car Parts are taking the p*** at £200 for the tunnel version.

2 Would you ever buy a non-Bosch copy?

My 2000 P38 Vogue is starts okay, after a minute or two RPM drops below 500 and is, understandably lumpy. This lasts for about 30-40 seconds, then recovers.

It's been doing it for a while but has recently become much worse.

MAF was replaced about 20k ago.

My 4.6 Vogue failed the MoT Test today because the fog light telltale bulb has blown. Obviously, I'll be replacing everything in the instrument cluster with LEDs. Googling has revealed nothing because step-by-step instructions for instrument cluster removal seem to have disappeared from certain major sources. Baffling because they would be tiny, even with pics. Obv. I have 10 days to avoid a full re-test.

Can it be done without taking the whole dash out? I found a YouTube video for that but don't want to do it unnecessarily.

Planning to buy this set unless someone warns me otherwise:
https://embertonimperial.com/products/land-range-rover-p38-green-led-dash-dial-binnacle-instrument-bulbs-v8-diesel

My wife's 01 Vogue keeps cutting out after running for about 30 minutes.

The battery is only a few months old and the vehicle has been used regularly with a bit of a gap over Christmas.

Garage's Autologic is spitting out 4 codes:

108 Continuous Power Supply Interruption
148 Interface Immobiliser
107 ECU Power Supply
A5H4/165 Generic take to Dealer

Crank Position Sensor shows okay.

Googling turns up bad ground and faulty fuse box as possible causes of 108 - and possibly the others? I've asked them to check.

We're really buggered here. Garage does plenty of RRs/LRs but they've not seen this set of symptoms and it's intermittent, albeit reproducable.

Had an EAS FAILURE on the way home.

Turned out to be COMPRESSOR FAILURE.

On reaching home I turned off the ignition and heard a hissing as the car visibly sagged.

The compressor dues actually run, but the system won't repressurise with a short open.

I'll leak check with washing up liquid in daylight but that hiss and sag has me thinking a valve is stuck open...

Need the car tomorrow night (Monday).

Accelerated diagnostic steps would be much appreciated.

Have a parasitic drain on a cc 2001 Vogue. I've blown at least two meters in the past so serial current measurement is clearly not my forte.

The AA guy showed me his "amp clamp" and briefly outlined how useful it is... I want one.

I'd like Auto-Ranging from milliamps up to starter motor levels (400-600?)

Hertz and Duty Cycle seem like they might be useful.

I don't really like unbranded or obscure items, because they have no reputational skin in the game.

Fluke are way too expensive.

Draper don't have the clamp style on their website, but are out there.

Any recommendations?

On Sooz '02 Vogue both door mirrors dip perfectly when you select reverse. Coming out of reverse only the right hand (driver's) door returns to the normal position.

However, the passenger door mirror can be set back where it should be using the controls in the centre console. But it's a ball/ovary ache.

Ideas, please.

One of my rear bumper mounts has rusted through so it's dangling on one side just rear of the wheel arch...

1 Will it fail my MoT test on the 4th Jan?
2 Fix or replace? I know a welder/fabricator...

I'm finally back on my Viair upgrade.

There's no room for it on the small ledge inboard of the EAS housing. I'm going to mount it remotely on the firewall and run a 6mm tube into the housing. Extending the wiring is trivial.

Can anyone tell me the correct name for the little brass ring INSIDE the little blue pipe we connect to the compressor? I know it's not an olive - wrong shape, it has a shoulder. More like a top hat. Is it a ferrule?

I'm just looking for confirmation.

Saw a thread on dead EAS where someone jacked up the rear axle to access height and the system recovered. The hypothesis is that some cars go so far out of range when deflated the ECU throws in the towel.

Any grain of truth to this?

I want to work on the steering wheel buttons and cassette. Is there any way to remove the airbag without disconnecting the battery? I've had key problems and don't want the hassle.

Also, is there a way to test the cassette? None of my controls for cruise, ICE, etc. are working.