I've seen the setting for UK Police in the Nanocom.

During my little project to replace the electrochromic mirror with a reversing\crash camera I think I've spotted the plug for the roof lights.

Does anyone know where the switch pack went in the dashboard? What did it look like? How many unicorns do I need to buy one? Thinking of fitting an LED light bar.

Bonus points for recognising the movie reference in the title.

Don't need a permanent live I'm not using the crash cam motion sensor for anti-theft. I'll sort it with my multimeter and report back. Thanks people.

Okay. There's actually room inside the mirror for the step down unit. No pink and white wire, but there is a red one. Do you reckon that's it?

Cheers!

I've installed a rear camera with a mirror style display which replaces the rear view mirror.

Running power up from the centre console while keeping the cable hidden is difficult. But i have the headlining out for a leak repair.

I've bought a 12v to 5v step down module I can attach to the roof somewhere near the courtesy light and sunroof motor (which I'm about to replace). Butchering a USB cable to expose the Black and Red wires was easy enough.

I'm looking for an ignition fed 12v supply for the input. Since the electrochromic rear view mirror was already disconnected when I bought the car that seems the best option.

Anyone happen to know which wires will give me ignition switched 12v and GND?

I'm fed up with eBay. It cost me more then I saved last year and I want to close my account. But it seems to be a good source for obscure parts which can no longer be bought new. Sunroof motor for example.

What are the best alternatives (if any)?

Gilbertd wrote:

Chasman wrote:

Need to repair the sunroof mech when I get a weather window. All tips appreciated.

Don't bother. I bought one of the 3D printed repair kits from eBay.

Okay. I've just reactivated the sunroof. The motor runs but the panel doesn't move at all. Seems to me like the mechanical connection from the motor has failed so new roof may not be necessary. Head lining is out... Shall I whip out the motor? Is it direct drive or a cable like an old speedo?

Super! Thank you everyone.

Morat wrote:

Congrats on beating your P38 into shape! It sounds like you were getting off lightly until the liner issue hit. May I ask who did your rebuild? If it was a DIY then you score many man-points for skill and masochism :)

A chap called Derek who I know for sure has, sadly, retired. They X-rayed the block and had it machined for top-hat liners. I'm led to understand that's not recommended for the 4.6 but what's done is done.

Thanks everyone. I'll have a dig around the Nanocom instrumentation and Motronic errors I think my lambdas were replaced. I remember insisting on Bosch. But that might have been my wife's car. It has a new (genuine) MAF because I'm planning a Tornado chip upgrade and they recommend replacement at 80k.

Weird uneven tickover problem starting about 30 seconds after starting and lasting about a minute. It's very consistent and has been doing it for many months.

I like to get to the bottom of minor things like this because they often precede something worse.

I don't have a good ear for V8s. Might be a misfire but that would start straight away, wouldn't it?

Newbie reporting for duty.

Our first P38 had quite a few faults when we bought it but I didn't have a clue what I was doing.

It looked tidy. Black tinted rear windows and black paint with wicked looking 21s (before I knew any better). Then he started it and it was game over! I'd never owned a V8 before and fell in love. I paid him way too much money, which I had very unwisely taken in cash, at started the drive home. The first demonstration of my galactic naivety was him having the windows down "so you can hear the engine." Smart move because he killed two birds with one stone clinching the sale and hiding the fact the refrigeration unit for the HVAC wasn't working. It was summer and I was driving a black car with no chiller!

He was honest enough to say the 21s didn't ride well and gave me a set of 18s in the boot. It has bloody awful and spent very little time in contact with the ground on the country roads near us. I blamed the 21s for being heavy knock-offs and punted them onto eBay. It was better on the 18s but I could still tell something wasn't right. 4 new air springs and a full set of Bilstein B6 dampers later, things were really good. The car feels tall but that pig-iron chassis pulls down the CG so it handles better than it has any right to. Maybe I blamed the 21s incorrectly but driving one on 16s years later the ride was supple but really controlled (also on B6s). I don't think this chassis is cut out for big wheels (not looking to start a fight about it though). A tremble in the steering was fixed with a new (also Bilstein) steering damper.

Later on the drive home I noticed a weird thudding noise and jumping sensation on full throttle and on hills. That proved to be a stretched transfer case chain. We got that and the refrigeration fixed and all was well until the MoT test. Needed a new exhaust, track rod a drag link (could have done just the ends). Those last two were the missing pieces in the handling puzzle. Suddenly the steering was lighter, more responsive and had less slack around the dead-ahead position. The exhaust is a Janspeed cat-back which sounds gorgeous and passes MoTs.

It really grew on me and passed some MoTs with advisories.

Then dropped a liner. It was decision time. Had the rebuild done. I'm All-In.

More recently it had a misfire diagnostic computers weren't showing a reason for. A very experienced guy at a nearby garage said it was a fractured flex plate triggering the knock sensors. Absolutely spot on. Changed it for an uprated spring steel alloy one from Turner Engineering. Also added a Prins LPG system they'd retrieved from a Maserati. Found a Turner ATB diff on Facebook for good money, it's on the back but I might move it to the front when funds allow.

It's on the drive with the roof liner out at the minute. Left sun visor kept going mouldy then the whole car got really damp inside. Turned out to be a leak on the seam under the roof rack trim on the passenger side. I fixed it by taking the roof rack trim out and drizzling Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure (not making that up) into the visible part of the seam. A good 5-10ml two or three days running. You can do this without removing the trim at the sides or the nightmare one at the top of the screen, so it's well worth a tenner to try before doing anything more drastic.

Need to repair the sunroof mech when I get a weather window. All tips appreciated.