Got a new rear screen one (DMC10023) in a BritPart box so can't guarantee its accurate to original drawings. But its all plastic and the rubber squishes so should be near enough.
According to my Mitutoyo 200 mm Dial Caliper, which should be accurate enough.
Plastic spigot diameter 17 mm nominal outside diameter, two ridges to locate in the rubber seal 17.9 mm Ø nominal at 6 mm spacing.
Measuring the rubber bush in situ on the pump spigot outside is 21 mm Ø nominal, two location ridges 21.7 mm Ø nominal. Bush has 26 mm nominal by 4 mm deep ring on the end to stop it getting pushed into the tank.
Clive
How old are your plug leads?
Had similar idle shudder issue that took a few thousand miles to finally get bad enough to identify as a failing plug lead when it began to routinely run on 7 1/2 cylinders for the first 100 yards or so on start up. Fine when warm, except for the occasional idle shudder which was edging up towards regular but sometimes from occasional if you see what I mean.
Clive
Hot Damn! They still make 'em. Thought everything had to have a touch screen and computer chip to go on-line these days.
Says handmade on the website so gotta be ££££. Cant say that I care much for the crowded modern dial. Scale rolling through a window like mine is so much more elegant.
See some E-Bay optimist wants £30 for a genuinely battered wooden box. Now if the hefty mounting plate and wing nut adjustable carrier were still inside maybe ...
Clive
Guess brake testing decelerometer tester calibration depends on the breed.
Have a Ferodo badged, but made by Tapley, brake testing meter kicking about the place which reads braking performance as a percentage of G. Scale calibrated LEVEL to 100 in unit increments numbered every 5. Level of course being zero which needs to be set before use.
Darned if I can remember how I ended up with it. One day I might make a mount and give it a try out for interest sake.
Clive
Bitch to find. Look under expansion tank and hoses section F02020 in LRCAT.
No 8 on the picture.
PCH115700 - HOSE ASSEMBLY-EXPANSION TANK COOLANT EXPANSION TANK TO THROTTLE BODY [ (V)XA410482 - ] I think.
Did mine last year and probably spent longer tracking down that damn number than I did doing the job! Obvious when you know where to look.
Clive
If its an "economically made" 3D printed part it won't be up to the job.
Looked into this 3D Printing lark for replication of broken plastic parts last year for other purposes and concluded that the commonly available materials aren't yet strong enough for direct replacement of significantly load bearing moulded parts. Some of the more exotic stuff might do it but, realistically, you'd be looking at re-design to suit the material as well.
Seem to be a few firms springing up offering 3D printing services to Joe & Joanna Public quoting affordable to expensive basic prices but going by the websites they seem to use higher end hobby machines rather than proper pro gear.
Another incentive to get to grips with Fusion 360 and start using the baby CNC.
Clive
Thanks for that.
Ordered the UV dye cleaner from your link.
Will a pump and an "operated on" pressure cap be good enough for a pressure tester. Old pressure cap lying around somewhere. Pump and gauge I made up 20 - 30 odd years back for something else. Finding it may be challenge!
Clive
With a couple of runs sufficiently further than just up to town in prospect to give things a fair trial I let the coolant level in the expansion tank down low enough to be sure the UV dye would be well mixed after topping up.
After 6 cold starts and 150 miles on the clock, the coolant level hasn't visibly moved. UV torch reveals bright violet in a nice strong Jackson Pollock pattern all over front and much of the top of the engine. Light dusting on thermostat housing, sides of radiator, inner wings and exhaust heat shield with pretty complete coverage. Inside of radiator mostly covered to more than dusting but less than Pollock standards.
I'm guessing a pinhole leak or three on front side of the radiator being picked up by the fan and thrown everywhere. If the team agrees whats currently a decent price / performance radiator for a year 2000 HSE 4 litre. Price range for acceptable breeds seems to be around £100 (Island 4 x 4) to £170 (Euro Car Parts). Can collect from Euro Car Parts so a few pounds extra is OK for security of it not going via common courier and also having somewhere to take it back to if it does turn out bad.
Guess perhaps I should do the thermostat at the same time. Allmakes, Bearmach et al being around £20 which is neither here nor there. Hoses are all new reasonably recently so should be OK. Not done the little one off the top of the radiator but no apparent leaks from that. Heater O rings still good. Do I risk disturbing them so I know its done or let sleeping dragons lie.
Do I have to get the £15 bottle of special spray from Ring to shift the fluorescent residue or is their something easier to find that works?
Clive
Another vote for an odd connection issue or three or more.
Over two years of struggling with initially random self turning off of my drivers side tail light eventually evolving to always after about 5 minutes running ended when I dropped the left hand front wheel into a hidden pot hole at about 30 mph. Avoiding a smart car with a suicide wish on a 1 1/2 track road! Heck of a bang, everything well shook up and tail light problem fixed. Guess the gremlin fell off.
Clive
Gilbertd wrote:
I'd hold out for one in a bit better nick to use as a starting point.
Truest words ever spoken. Not that I have any intention, or personal need, to do a full on mid life improved one. But getting fed up with her ladyship moaning about what her L322 is costing in servicing and fixing so may be forced into doing something that will last.
Turner are local to me.
Clive
Morat, by your standards, everything has crap paint.
Very Blue indeed. Barely 25 mile up the road from me. Clive style financial analysis(?) makes it a prime candidate for having £ 6,000 or £ 7,000 thrown at it in one big hit then pretty much be just driven for the next 120,000 miles. Hopefully mostly on LPG. How does a Turner top hatted motor compare to one from V8 Dev?
Clive
Clive603 wrote:
If I read Taylors book correctly bog standard HSE "trim level 3" is right.
This one makes more sense if a blue one will do https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-4-6/192447264488Clive
Looks like the Overpriced P38 Spotters Club is having a really good week.
£10,000 for this admittedly smart 30 th anniversary edition https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-30th-Anniversary-Ltd-edition/232656731892 with 120,000 miles up. Theoretically you could say the interior looks good but the combination of dark green leather with cream piping and cream plastic has rather too much resemblance to the aftermath of an unfortunate late night post pub curry choice for any normally non colour blind person to appreciate.
Clive
Possibly the "legend" of better servicing and more careful looking after associated with "prestige" Japanese re-imports might affect folks perceptions. If you want a P38 you want a P38 so its all down to condition-condition-condition and does SWIMBO like the colour. Mind you at that money I'd want more than a paltry 3 months warranty.
However looked at vaguely dispassionately some sort of case could be made on a pure economics "likely miles per pound" invested basis.
That P38 has 45,000 (ish) miles on it so should be good for 70,000 odd more with normal servicing plus (say) two extra fixes. Normal servicing including a replacement set of air bags, refurb compressor / valve block, suspension bushes and are of the other known gets old parts along the way. P38 is cheaper to fix / service than the Disco by good margin too. Suppose for fair fuel consumption comparison we should add in £1,000 for LPG.
Throw another £5,000 into the pot and you have a 300,000 mile motor. But you know that.
Disco has 75,000 miles on it. Probably only another 40,000 to 50,000 on normal servicing before it starts throwing incidents. I know Disco 3's can do serious miles with no issues but its still bit of a gamble. Not first series L322 "how many shirts would you like to loose territory" but still not wonderful. Lots more complex than the P38 and far more expensive to fix. Maybe £5,000 on extras by the time it gets to 200,000 and odds are you're more or less done. Too much un-rebuildable stuff. Far as I'm concerned teacher was off sick the week that the guy who stayed the Disco 3 managed to attend classes. Can't see ever being desperate enough to drive round in something that ugly!
Still a nonsense price when you can find nearly as nice for half or less with 60 - 70,000 on the clock tho'. But fact is for grumpy old so-n-so like me on 5,000 miles a year over-paying for something unlikely to have real issues for the decade or more could be attractive. I've pretty much settled on doing the mid-life improvements thing to mine and, factoring in the original £4,000 purchase price costs will be getting up there by the time its done.
Clive
Morat has it.
Really its down to how many miles you are going to do and what a just-use-it car is worth to you. Way I see it pushing around £6,000 - £7,000 into a sound vehicle will get you a pretty much "bullet proof for the next 100,000 miles" with just ordinary servicing P38 on LPG. Or rather less if you decide not to top hat the motor. Which given the relatively inexpensive servicing of a P38 really isn't a bad deal. Assuming you have LPG in reasonable range or on a regular run. Which I don't. Rats!
So that green one would make a lot of sense as a starter vehicle.
Different if you, like moi, don't do vast miles when its actual spend not spend per mile thats important. I've been taking Car Mechanic magazine for the past few years gathering evidence for my possible next purchase, ought to be due around 2024. Troubles and costs of modern, even so called relatively economy stuff, are bloody terrifying. So mayhap doing a bullet proof P38 to last until I'm 80 odd might make sense. Say 70,000 miles worth over next 15 years. Could probably get £6,000 for the Bristol so funds are no issue.
Might be into doing one anyway. The "unofficial kid sister" is due her annual 2 or 3 week between contracts visit come April. If she doesn't stop whinging about how much her L322 TD6 is costing to run and service (£5,000 on servicing last year, Yikes!) I'll be seriously tempted to toss her the keys to the Big Red Beast to se if he can convert her to the one true faith. (Hour long "there, there, there - pat, pat, pat - it'll be OK - tears don't stain shoulders, How Much!" response phone calls are getting old.)
Clive
20 nm is more than little greater than finger tight. About 14 1/2 ft lb in proper money. Roughly the standard tightening torque for a half decent 8 mm bolt according to this : http://www.wtools.com.tw/STANDARD-BOLT-TIGHTENING-TORQUE.shtml. Interesting links but I defy anyone to make sense of the introductory blurb to the relation formulae between bolt and torque at the bottom.
I prefer the spring loaded handle with direct reading dial type like this https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/torque-wrenches/sw25-dial-indicating-torque-wrench/p/KEN5551250K for that sort of low torque work. Its very easy to feel whats going on. Important when pretensioning a stretch bolt. Theoretically not as positive as a click type but it takes only a modicum of care to hold better accuracy than the inherent scatter of a normal size click type. Folk tend not to know what they are so often found very cheap or even, like mine, free.
Clive.
Sheesh. Brings back unpleasant memories of doing near enough same "stuck in the footwell" thing in a GT6 more years ago than I'm gonna admit to. Fortunately GT6 seat is thinner relative to the steering wheel so could still breath (shallowly) whilst I figured things out. On my ownsome so self extraction essential.
Ever since I've always pulled the seat out before I slip into a footwell. I put the original error down to bad habits picked up in 6 months of Reliant trike ownership!
Clive
The DIY DAB antenna in your third link should work very well indeed.
Did some Googling to try and find some intelligent commentary. My grasp of antenna theory was pretty weak back in night school days 40 years ago and it certainly hasn't improved. This quote sounds right
"Apparently performance is mainly down to the coil at the bottom which acts as a choke impedance matching device. What you have is an end fed balanced 5/8 wave. Dunno who came up with the design but the use of the coil, the 75 ohm coax and the fold back is very very clever indeed !"
Dunno what effect running it close to a scree pillar will have. I'd test it hanging in the middle of the screen first.
Clive
Yup the electronics are smart enough to stop you locking the car if it thinks the key is still in it. Key detection microswitch actuator on mine is a bit sticky and if it doesn't go over when the key is removed the car won't lock. Usually hear it if it doesn't go. Pushing the key back in and pulling out sharply fixes it. Much louder clunk when fixing.
Clive
L322 lights are wider than the P38 ones so I imagine the "Bubba with a monster trade pack deal on Isopon" converters leave the aircon condenser off, junk the viscous fan and move the radiator back a bit to make room for the lights. Allegedly getting the L322 bumper mounted properly is, ahem, "less than easy" too. Not that any of the Bubbas and Bubba wannabees I've ever met have properly in their vocabulary anyway. In certain quarters taking an angle grinder to the welds for service access appears to be considered acceptable!
Folk claim to have done the job properly retaining the air-conditioning and viscous fan but imply its very hard work needing significant bodywork expertise to achieve a could've come from the factory result. Unfortunately the Photobucket issue seems to have deep sixed all the relevant pictures so its hard to verify that the words match reality.
Clive