I’m not aware that Blackbox have released an updated software suite yet. I have the conversion on a note stuck to my NanoCom lid/cover.

The NanoCom is confused reading wheel sensor voltages. When reading the voltages the NanoCom to real world vehicle conversion is as follows:

NanoCom Vehicle
FL RL
FR FR
RL RR
RR FL

At least it gets FR correct. Perversely it reads the reports the error texts correctly. You can see why it showed the RR voltage incorrect when it was actually the FL at fault. That is why changing the RR sensor didn’t cure the problem

Black box have been informed and promised to correct the software when an update is released.

The Wabco ECU is very sensitive to resistance of the wheel sensors on power up check - they don’t need to be very far out of nominal to throw the ABS/TC faults yet the voltages at the wheel sensor will still look normal. Ask me how I know all this!!!

Rangie now back from MoT today with a clean bill of health and, get this, no advisories! Yay!

Shorting on the pump side only would have little effect as the ECU needs see the closed circuit before switching the pump on. If it’s closed circuit on the pump side already then you can assume the thermal cut out is working.

You say you have 12V at the compressor so it has effectively been turned on by the ECU! How did you check this because if you break the connector the ECU won’t provide the 12V (because the thermal cut out signal will go open circuit to the ECU). Have you checked the earth/ground is also OK on the vehicle loom side of the connector?

I would be tempted to just apply 12V directly across the compressor motor, +12V on pin 4 (purple/light green) and an earth/ground on pin 3 (black) and see if the compressor motor actually runs. If not, then the compressor is at fault and needs refurbishing (new brushes?) or replacement. If it does run then check the vehicle side of the earth/ground on pin 3.

To bypass the thermal switch read Richard’s post directly above yours. Short the orange and black wires.

Try removing the wind deflector - it stopped my Bosch wipers juddering and they still clean the screen nicely!

Just check the operation of the rubber covered momentary switches on the circuit board click crisply on/off and check the actual plastic buttons move freely in the front housing/panel. Don’t forget to check the bulbs whilst you are in there, much easier to replace than fiddling about afterwards. As for the rotary switch, just gently clean the tracks and adjust the wiper - the real secret is to just select Auto and set the temperatures and let the HEVAC do what it is designed to do - the rotary switch rarely needs touching then and wear isn’t a problem.

Halfway home from visiting the British Motor Museum at Gaydon Rangie developed quite a throaty rumble. Now whereas this made Rangie sound a bit more meaty than usual and was not unacceptable sound there was clearly an exhaust blow somewhere. Made it home without anything banging or falling off and investigation revealed this:

The exit from the rear of the centre silencer had given up just behind the weld - this had lasted for 13 years but it is a stainless steel exhaust that is guaranteed for life! Center section was duly removed:

Claim made on the guarantee and this was duly delivered:

Installed today with new hangers and all back intact:

This section of exhaust failed previously in 2018 but just behind the joint where it couples to the tailpipes above the rear axle - that was repaired back then under the lifetime guarantee as well.

After a couple of weeks in the Lake District Rangie was looking a tad grubby so a good wash, clay bar, polish, wax and black trim treatment later she's looking somewhat smarter:

A few years ago my exhaust fractured and completely separated at the joint between the centre box and the back boxes. It was only picked up on the next MoT as the emissions did not make sense to the tester! In other words it did not sound like a fractured exhaust! It is an aftermarket stainless steel exhaust so not an OEM centre box. However, how about removing the back boxes and pipes and go for a run at all loads and speeds and you might find the back boxes are completely unnecessary unless you want a really quiet vehicle. Then just cut out the back boxes and weld in some straight pipes and refit.

Heads off?

Rimmer Bros are a bit thin on P38 Fuse Boxes but go to the Island 4x4 web site and you’ll see that there are three Fuse Boxes listed for a diesel P38 depending on year/VIN. There are obviously differences as the part number changes but what those differences are exactly is a mystery unless the internal circuit board diagram can be found. It would be a brave man to try and fit the wrong part number!

I imagine there may be more differences between the diesel and petrol versions for obvious reasons and there are two versions (nominally GEMS and Thor) listed for the petrol version. It would be a very brave man to try a petrol version in a diesel (or vice versa).

In other words I would make sure the part number matches your VIN!

Monaco seat. Bright yellow with black trim. I assume it now has an LS3 under the ‘hood’ as well?

Sports seats . . . in a P38!

Where are the AA decals?

GROM don’t advertise it for the P38 as the BT3 unit they sell is a standard unit (same firmware) covering a range of more modern vehicles. It will work with a change of firmware but the market for P38s is tiny so not worth their while having a specific variant for it.

The firmware change is trivial (but you do need a MicroSD card) and, when installed, and with the BT3 unit plugged into the ‘blue’ ISO connector in place of the CD player it works extremely well. GROM responded to my emails very quickly and I just told them what I wanted to connect to the BT3 unit and they pointed me at the correct version of firmware and how to download and install it.

You will lose the CD player unless, like myself, you rig up a changeover switch in order to select the CD or GROM unit! I have also made use of the USB connection to the BT3 unit in order to provide a handy charging point for phone, MP3 player etc.

The ‘deal’ with the GROM BT3 unit is that the latest firmware it ships with does not support the full functions with the Alpine HU and depending on the external phone cum MP3 player being used as it is, unsurprisingly, set up for much newer vehicles and HUs.

The basic Bluetooth worked fine for phone and streaming music. However, it would not provide the full functions as advertised - the HU controls and the steering wheel controls would not work for selecting and running playlists and for direct connected MP3 players. I found the support from GROM extremely good and they directed me to download and install a previous firmware version (see my previous post above). With this ‘downgraded’ firmware installed the unit works flawlessly with all functions and controls available and the sound quality is astonishingly good. There is no interference and the SatNav functionality is unaffected.

If you are just connecting via Bluetooth then probably OK. I did not have Bluetooth connection problems but did have direct wired connection issues to MP3 players and phone . . . but they are ‘elderly’ units and GROM did state that the firmware was continuously updated to work with latest iPhones and the like.

Are the new mounts OEM or aftermarket? Double check the domed washers are, indeed, correctly orientated and that they are sufficiently domed. Also check that the three mounting posts are properly secured in the housing. Use new self locking nuts on the mounts and ensure they are not overtightened - they really need to be just nipped up and no more. Other than that there is nothing much else that can be done as the three mounts are the only method of isolating the compressor vibrations.

I see you have connected a GROM BT3 unit but do you have full functionality? I had trouble with mine (mine would not run playlists and a couple of other functions) and GROM informed that the latest GROM BT3 firmware does not provide full functionality for the old Alpine unit in the P38. The firmware needs downgrading to previous version BMWv21 available on their web site. Downloaded it, rename it as per the instructions and load on a microSD card in order to downgrade the GROM unit. This involves unplugging the RVR cable, removing the GROM circuit board from its housing and inserting the microSD card into the slot on the circuit board, reconnecting the RVR cable to the bare board and waiting for some flashing lights on the board to then go steady and, voila, it's done.

If your key fobs are working OK then it’s easy to check if the BBUS is working or not. Lock the car with the fob. Wait for the alarm to arm (red led flashing slows down) then unlock with the key. The BBUS should clearly operate. Cancel by locking with the fob.

To check if the battery is still operational, switch the ignition off, wait 17 seconds and then pull the BBUS connector at its rear. If the BBUS operates then the NiCd battery is still OK. Reconnect connector and then lock/unlock the vehicle and switch the ignition on. BBUS will then be reset.