Try removing the wind deflector - it stopped my Bosch wipers juddering and they still clean the screen nicely!
Just check the operation of the rubber covered momentary switches on the circuit board click crisply on/off and check the actual plastic buttons move freely in the front housing/panel. Don’t forget to check the bulbs whilst you are in there, much easier to replace than fiddling about afterwards. As for the rotary switch, just gently clean the tracks and adjust the wiper - the real secret is to just select Auto and set the temperatures and let the HEVAC do what it is designed to do - the rotary switch rarely needs touching then and wear isn’t a problem.
Halfway home from visiting the British Motor Museum at Gaydon Rangie developed quite a throaty rumble. Now whereas this made Rangie sound a bit more meaty than usual and was not unacceptable sound there was clearly an exhaust blow somewhere. Made it home without anything banging or falling off and investigation revealed this:
The exit from the rear of the centre silencer had given up just behind the weld - this had lasted for 13 years but it is a stainless steel exhaust that is guaranteed for life! Center section was duly removed:
Claim made on the guarantee and this was duly delivered:
Installed today with new hangers and all back intact:
This section of exhaust failed previously in 2018 but just behind the joint where it couples to the tailpipes above the rear axle - that was repaired back then under the lifetime guarantee as well.
After a couple of weeks in the Lake District Rangie was looking a tad grubby so a good wash, clay bar, polish, wax and black trim treatment later she's looking somewhat smarter:
A few years ago my exhaust fractured and completely separated at the joint between the centre box and the back boxes. It was only picked up on the next MoT as the emissions did not make sense to the tester! In other words it did not sound like a fractured exhaust! It is an aftermarket stainless steel exhaust so not an OEM centre box. However, how about removing the back boxes and pipes and go for a run at all loads and speeds and you might find the back boxes are completely unnecessary unless you want a really quiet vehicle. Then just cut out the back boxes and weld in some straight pipes and refit.
Heads off?
Rimmer Bros are a bit thin on P38 Fuse Boxes but go to the Island 4x4 web site and you’ll see that there are three Fuse Boxes listed for a diesel P38 depending on year/VIN. There are obviously differences as the part number changes but what those differences are exactly is a mystery unless the internal circuit board diagram can be found. It would be a brave man to try and fit the wrong part number!
I imagine there may be more differences between the diesel and petrol versions for obvious reasons and there are two versions (nominally GEMS and Thor) listed for the petrol version. It would be a very brave man to try a petrol version in a diesel (or vice versa).
In other words I would make sure the part number matches your VIN!
Monaco seat. Bright yellow with black trim. I assume it now has an LS3 under the ‘hood’ as well?
Sports seats . . . in a P38!
Where are the AA decals?
GROM don’t advertise it for the P38 as the BT3 unit they sell is a standard unit (same firmware) covering a range of more modern vehicles. It will work with a change of firmware but the market for P38s is tiny so not worth their while having a specific variant for it.
The firmware change is trivial (but you do need a MicroSD card) and, when installed, and with the BT3 unit plugged into the ‘blue’ ISO connector in place of the CD player it works extremely well. GROM responded to my emails very quickly and I just told them what I wanted to connect to the BT3 unit and they pointed me at the correct version of firmware and how to download and install it.
You will lose the CD player unless, like myself, you rig up a changeover switch in order to select the CD or GROM unit! I have also made use of the USB connection to the BT3 unit in order to provide a handy charging point for phone, MP3 player etc.
The ‘deal’ with the GROM BT3 unit is that the latest firmware it ships with does not support the full functions with the Alpine HU and depending on the external phone cum MP3 player being used as it is, unsurprisingly, set up for much newer vehicles and HUs.
The basic Bluetooth worked fine for phone and streaming music. However, it would not provide the full functions as advertised - the HU controls and the steering wheel controls would not work for selecting and running playlists and for direct connected MP3 players. I found the support from GROM extremely good and they directed me to download and install a previous firmware version (see my previous post above). With this ‘downgraded’ firmware installed the unit works flawlessly with all functions and controls available and the sound quality is astonishingly good. There is no interference and the SatNav functionality is unaffected.
If you are just connecting via Bluetooth then probably OK. I did not have Bluetooth connection problems but did have direct wired connection issues to MP3 players and phone . . . but they are ‘elderly’ units and GROM did state that the firmware was continuously updated to work with latest iPhones and the like.
Are the new mounts OEM or aftermarket? Double check the domed washers are, indeed, correctly orientated and that they are sufficiently domed. Also check that the three mounting posts are properly secured in the housing. Use new self locking nuts on the mounts and ensure they are not overtightened - they really need to be just nipped up and no more. Other than that there is nothing much else that can be done as the three mounts are the only method of isolating the compressor vibrations.
I see you have connected a GROM BT3 unit but do you have full functionality? I had trouble with mine (mine would not run playlists and a couple of other functions) and GROM informed that the latest GROM BT3 firmware does not provide full functionality for the old Alpine unit in the P38. The firmware needs downgrading to previous version BMWv21 available on their web site. Downloaded it, rename it as per the instructions and load on a microSD card in order to downgrade the GROM unit. This involves unplugging the RVR cable, removing the GROM circuit board from its housing and inserting the microSD card into the slot on the circuit board, reconnecting the RVR cable to the bare board and waiting for some flashing lights on the board to then go steady and, voila, it's done.
If your key fobs are working OK then it’s easy to check if the BBUS is working or not. Lock the car with the fob. Wait for the alarm to arm (red led flashing slows down) then unlock with the key. The BBUS should clearly operate. Cancel by locking with the fob.
To check if the battery is still operational, switch the ignition off, wait 17 seconds and then pull the BBUS connector at its rear. If the BBUS operates then the NiCd battery is still OK. Reconnect connector and then lock/unlock the vehicle and switch the ignition on. BBUS will then be reset.
Reminds me of the time a few years ago when my youngest lad was in the passenger seat and I went for an overtake of three somewhat dawdling cars. Press of sport button, floor throttle and away we go. The look of surprise on his face was priceless as he made comment that the he never realised the ‘old barge’ could move so quick! I explained it had a magic button that he had never really seen (and hadn’t seen me prod) as it ‘hides’ beneath the handbrake lever when in motion!
Rejoice, you’ve done the difficult bit! You should now be able to get a finger into the matrix side of the joint and any crud will be immediately felt. Easily cleaned out with a bit of descaling fluid. Further tips:
Take time to make sure the pipes are pushed into and fully located into the matrix before doing the screw up and drawing the collar up tight.
Do not overtighten the screw especially if you have a replacement hex head screw. The amount of torque you can apply with Mk1 hand and a screwdriver will be sufficient otherwise you may crack the plastic matrix. You can always nip it up a bit if it weeps but once the matrix is cracked it’s a whole heap of further work.
Once the joint is assembled refill the cooling system and test the joint by running the engine and coolant up to temperature and pressure. Do NOT turn on the ignition/start the engine without the instrument cluster connected with both connectors - a whole new world of pain awaits otherwise.
Don’t forget to clip the temperature sensor back onto the pipe.
Clean up the inevitable hairy edges of the cut heater air duct and assemble in situ. To help with the duct tape issue the method I use is to cut a length of duct tape and then ‘stick’ a strip of grease proof paper twice as long as the cut length of tape to the sticky side of the tape and fold it back on itself. The duct tape can now be easily fed through the narrow gap twixt duct and heater box, positioned and then by slowly pulling the grease proof paper off the duct tape can be slowly and accurately stuck across and around the joint in a controlled manner.
Good luck.
PS : Classic Minis - pretty much rebuilt more than one of these. Once I’d mastered the ‘secret’ of the heater by-pass hose replacement I could do one in under ten minutes! There was also an acquired technique for bolting those pesky master cylinders in place. All other jobs seemed pretty straightforward to me.
RH front (OSF) fog lamp replaced today. The old one had lots of condensation it it which wouldn’t clear and the reflector had started corroding. When I took the rear cap off it a lot of water just poured out! I assumed the cap had not been fitted properly or the seal has failed but it all looked OK. Impossible to remove the lamp screws in situ as the heads had corroded and one needed drilling out. Took the bumper off which makes the job a lot easier, wrestled the screws out and replaced them with No14 hex head SS screws and captive u nuts - meatier and better.
On examining the old lamp it became obvious that someone at some time had split the plastic lamp housing on the top surface and ‘sealed’ it with some goo that had gone hard and started to flake off which explains the water ingress. I suspect that when I had the bumper repainted some years ago the body shop damaged it when removing it (damage in line with top left hand mounting) and had bodged a repair!
Firstly I would enlarge the hole you have drilled to access the heater duct upper screw in a horizontal direction towards the rear. By viewing through the enlarged hole and behind the moved ducting you should be able to see the infamous screw head and the long pozidrive No2 screwdriver can be inserted to engage. Unclip the temperature sensor off the pipe (the wiring prevents the pipes being moved towards the engine compartment). There are now two options:
By feel undo the screw and then move the released collar back along the pipes and then push the pipes towards the engine compartment. Then, mainly by feel, the o-rings can be removed, the pipes and matrix cleaned up, o-rings inserted over the pipes, the pipes inserted back into the matrix and the screw re-engaged. To facilitate this do not remove the screw from the matrix, rather as you unscrew it pull the collar away from the matrix. Do not forget to re-clip the temperature sensor onto the pipe. If you have big mits like mine this is all a big ask but I managed it the first time I did the o-rings.
Through the instrument binnacle opening cut through the heater duct as low and as square as possible and be very, very careful not to cut the heater pipes. Then pull the lower section out from below or move it right out of the way. The upper section can also be removed through the binnacle opening as well once it is cut. With the ducting out of the way the access to the screw, matrix and collar is vastly improved and you can actually see what you are doing. The ducting needs to be duct taped back together on re-installation.
There is a third option to remove the dash which is what I did a few weeks ago but I also needed to re-attach the dash to windscreen trim/seal which had come adrift and also fully lubricate the blend and distribution flaps which had started making ominous sounds as they moved. Removing/replacing the dash is straightforward and not that difficult - it just takes a fair amount of time.
The OEM seat cushion seat heating elements do not get particularly toasty before the incorporated thermal switch cuts off so one modification you might consider when replacing/repairing a damaged element is incorporating a 12V DC normally closed thermostat that switches around the 40 - 50C mark depending how toasty you want the seat . Digi-key do a few Cantherm circular flattish thermostats in this range and, from memory, I believe the current draw of the seat heating elements is some 8A so a rating above this is required - minimum 10A, preferably 15A or above (but measure the resistance of the element to check). These just need to be soldered in parallel with the existing thermal switch - no need to remove/replace it. I have modified both of my seats this way when replacing the elements and they are much better.