Looking back at the invoice I think the total package was put together by Rimmer Bros using the Double S system at its core as the lifetime guarantee is actually with Rimmer Bros. I have to say that Rimmer Bros have stood up to their guarantee with no quibbles whatsoever. The first warranty claim the centre box section was deemed repairable - it was collected, transported to Double S for repair and couriered back to me within 48 hrs. The second time the centre section (again) was not deemed repairable (by photos) so Rimmer Bros delivered a brand new centre section to me within 24 hrs. Can’t fault the service.

My quad tail pipe is a Double S stainless steel cat back system (with centre box). It came with all necessary clamps, nuts, bolts and rubber hangers. Fitted in 2009 it has since undergone two warranty repairs courtesy of the lifetime guarantee so well outperforms anything Klarius can come up with!

Simple job - replace the rusted out rear mudflaps. However, I replaced the puny OEM screws with bigger No14 (6.3mm) size stainless steel screws, SS penny washers (which needed to be ground to fit the recesses in the mudflaps) and No14 plated captive nuts plus plenty of anti-seize (just in case I need to remove them in future). The holes in the the mudflaps also had to be drilled out to 6.5mm to accommodate the new beefier screws.

Whilst replacing the offside mudflap it became apparent that the exhaust mounting rubber to the front of the rear exhaust tail pipe box had broken. Luckily I had a couple of spares so that was quickly replaced.

Talking of exhausts Rangie is very offended by the suggestion that quad pipes are "ridiculous" - Rangie feels and looks just that little bit more sporty in her old age:

OK so it's not like a Ferrari, the rear bumper is shaped to accommodate the quad pipes like this:

Clive,

The OEM is a Rimmer Bros OEM whereas their Genuine LR one is £102. I tend to trust Rimmer Bros but who really knows!

A new OEM fan is less than £60 so I think I’ll just change it at next years annual service and have done with it. It’ll be another of those regular preventative maintenance items alongside the refurbished EAS valve block and compressor although this one has lasted over 20 years and 125k miles so I’ll put it on the schedule for changing again in 2043 🤣

I can inspect the blade roots very carefully without removing the fan and have done so as I assumed this would be where any cracking would start (thanks for confirming) - not a hint of cracking even using liquid (penetrating oil) to help show up hairline cracks. As a preventative maintenance activity I’m not sure removing the fan on each occasion is quite what I am looking for but a regular close inspection of the blade roots is now on the maintenance schedule.

OK, you guys have initiated a level of nervousness I didn’t have previously. I have been out to examine my fan but can find no sign of fatigue or cracking, indeed it looks pretty damn good. I have now put a fan inspection on my list of preventative maintenance activities/schedule but what exactly should I be looking for as an indication it should be changed before a horror show ‘explodes’ on the scene?

OK, I didn’t get the ‘project’ bit from your earlier posts, more a what’s the minimum to swap engines to keep the P38 running for some more years. However, what is the evidence that the original engine has low oil pressure and if confirmed and not the oil pump then what else can it be? For really low oil pressure there must be a hell of a leak somewhere (internal or external) or the bottom end must be rattling like a good ‘un. Either way, the original engine must be a bit of a risk to refurbish if the cause isn’t known.

If I’ve got it right, Rutland is going to do some minimal work on the second hand engine before replacing his existing low oil pressure engine in order to rebuild the existing low oil pressure engine and then, for a second time, swapping that back in. Why? If a complete engine rebuild is on the cards why not just rebuild the second hand engine and do the swap once? If the existing engine is that low on oil pressure that a complete failure is imminent then I think a rebuild of it might be a tad risky!

Compression testing is simple on an engine stand - just fit a starter motor and spin it over. If the compression is OK across all cylinders I would leave the top end alone.

Oil pressure will not be such a concern if your newer oil pump is to be fitted. Indeed, once the sump is off (and assuming it’s not full of sludge) I would remove the main and big end bearing caps to check the crankshaft and if OK re-shell the lot. Whilst there do not forget to replace the cruciform seals on the rear main bearing cap. I’d also replace the front crankshaft oil seal as well as the rear. These are all relatively inexpensive items as insurance for the future.

Harv wrote:

I don’t think you should use 100% concentrate. If you’ve flushed the system with water, you could then add the 100% coolant to the pure water left in the system. Then you’ll end up somewhere in the 50% range.

No need for guesswork. After flushing the system through with normal tap water disconnect the top hose and, using Mk1 lung power just blow the remnants of flushed water out of the system. Then disconnect one of the heater hoses and do the same. System will be pretty much completely empty. Reconnect all hoses and refill with 50/50 coolant/deionised water mix. Job jobbed.

You can replace Mk1 lung power (if you don’t have much puff or are too short to get at the heater hoses) with compressed air if you like via a compressor (if you have one) or a foot pump if you don’t (or even a bicycle pump).

Viro-Sol will not harm the tarmac. Any oil/grease coming off the engine/gearbox/axle will be mixed with the degreaser of choice and as long as the tarmac is washed down afterwards will not do any harm.

It won’t work, it’ll just dilute the product to uselessness (is that a word?) for tough stuff!

Save the spray bottles that your household cleaners come in, clean them thoroughly and use them. I have lots with various lotions and potions in them including my favourite degreaser/cleaner in various states of dilution from 10% to neat. I use Viro-Sol - it’s a citrus cleaner that is water soluble and doesn’t harm rubber or paintwork. It also smells lovely.

For the tough stuff (like engines, gearboxes and axles) I use it neat. Spray it on, leave it a few minutes, agitate with a brush and then blast the crud away with the power washer. It’s also brilliant for removing brake dust and grime from wheels - I use it diluted 50/50 with water for this.

Water is the better coolant and 50/50 water/concentrate mix is not as good at cooling but much better at keeping the system from corroding and ‘gunging’ up. 100% concentrate will not be very good at cooling at all. If you mix your own always use deionised water and the resulting coolant will last for many years and keep the waterways (or is that coolant ways) nice and clean.

When the system is drained I always advise back flushing the block and radiator before refilling just to make sure any resultant FOD is cleared out.

As the NanoCom must be providing a secondary route for the errant wiring just install the NanoCom as a permanent ‘accessory’ - job jobbed ;-)

I refer to these jobs as a Magnus Magnusson - you’ve started so you’ll finish!

I ‘learned’ that lesson some years ago. I took one look at the size of the gearbox/transfer box and it’s weight and decided that removal of this was one job I couldn’t do at home on my own without a proper lift. It’s about the only job I get the professionals to do (apart from painting that is). I have total respect for those that do take this on though.

I’ve only broken one switch! I used reinforced silicon tubing for the full belt and braces approach! It’s outer diameter is slightly bigger than OEM but it goes through the firewall grommet OK but is tighter to fit on the infamous switch due to the proximity of everything else. I ended up removing the ducting to get it fitted/located and then had to be very careful putting the ducting back.

Supposed to be 22” for both but I find a 22” on the driver’s side just catches the top windscreen trim so I fit a 21” on that side. For Bosch Aerotwin you need to get the ‘AR’ version not the ‘AP’ version to get the correct fitting - AR22U and AR21U.

Also, for the Bosch Aerotwin the wind deflector is not required because the back of the blade is shaped to perform the same function.

It runs from the T by the actuator along the firewall behind the engine and then goes through the firewall in line with the brake pedal and terminates in a ‘switch cum valve’ operated by the brake pedal. Access is pretty tight under the dash above the air ducting from the right hand blower motor but it can be done but be careful as the plastic of the switch can be brittle and it’s locating lugs easily broken when trying to get the vacuum tube off and on it.

Sounds like a cracked vacuum rube which is leaking but has not yet given up entirely. Favourite places to go are the by the connections to the actuator/diaphragm or where the vacuum tube exits the firewall into the engine compartment and just behind the engine. The cracking will be evident on inspection. If so just renew the vacuum tube - I used reinforced tubing on mine so it lasts longer.