That’s not how Wabco D operates, well not how mine works. If you have replaced a faulty sensor with a good one then on start up the ABS and Traction lights will extinguish as normal but the system ‘nags’ you via the DIS of the Traction Failure (which isn’t there anymore) and then proceeds to erroneously nag you for a few seconds of a non existent Traction Failure when you subsequently switch the ignition off. I assume this is because the Traction Failure is logged in the Wabco D unit and will not reset until the next power off/power on - seems a bit of an inbuilt software oddity. When you subsequently restart all the warnings are reset and normality resumes - no lights, no DIS nags. If you continuously have a Traction Failure warning then that’s something other than a repaired faulty sensor!

For the Wabco D system (don’t know about other previous systems) when a sensor is replaced the power on self test will pass for ABS but the Traction warning in the DIS will remain until the vehicle is driven and then shut down and then restarted at which point it, too, will go away.

As part of my set of ready use spares I have one rear and one front known good ABS sensor on the shelf. When I get the ABS/Traction fault on POST I use Nano to identify if it is a sensor and, if so, I use a spare sensor to just plug in (not fit) in place of that sensor and check it clears the POST fault before going on to dig out the old sensor and permanently fit the new one. I then purchase a replacement for the used spare and at least check it passes POST before storing it on the shelf.

I fully support Richard’s view that a second hand OEM Wabco sensor is preferable to a new aftermarket sensor as I have had no end of problems with short lived aftermarket sensors lasting only a few thousand miles before failing for no good reason. If only I knew where to get reliable second hand sensors or whether Wabco do an OEM sensors but not in Land Rover packaging!

The nano is, as you say, a bit ‘dyslexic’ regarding the voltage measurements but because it just reports the fault in the Wabco ECU verbatim it is accurate with regards to which sensor has an error.

Edit: Just checked and wrt the right front the nano is actually correct with voltage measurements as well - it’s the only one though!

Edit 2: According to RAVE there are no connectors twixt the Wabco ECU and the wheel sensor flying leads.

Most probably. Under that screw 'hole' in the small plastic scuttle cover there should be a press in square plastic housed captive nut. The hole for the captive nut assembly goes directly into the pollen filter housing below. The plastic housing has a gasket under its 'shoulder' to seal it but mine had disintegrated. When you screw into it it naturally lifts the plastic captive nut housing upwards and water leaks under the 'shoulder' and into the pollen filter housing and from there under the dash and into the footwell.

Options are a) make another small gasket from neoprene sheet or similar; b) 'glue' the captive nut assembly in position with RTV; or c) buy a new replacement captive nut assembly.

Water leaking under the dash on the driver’s side.

I suspected the pollen filter housing might be leaking through the cover so made (another) gasket for the cover. No change, still leaking.

I pulled the pollen filter out but it looked OK and dry so I was somewhat perplexed at where the water ingress was occurring so I taped around the windscreen on that side to exclude a windscreen leak but it still made no difference.

I had heard that water can ingress via the screws that hold the small plastic scuttle pieces in place so I removed the easily accessible one and, yes, it’s threads were wet. I injected some clear RTV into the screw hole and ensured the flanged head had RTV under it as well. Made no difference.

I pulled the windscreen side and bottom trim off and the small plastic scuttle trim off that side. Bit dirty underneath but all still looked OK. I again pulled the pollen filter and, again it looked OK . . . until I tipped it sideways and water ran from within its folds. I then examined the housing more closely and, yes, there were signs of moisture in there. I pulled out the plastic captive nut that protrudes into the pollen filter housing and examined it. It still seemed intact and had not split anywhere but the small seal under its collar where it plugs in had disintegrated. I reinstalled it but with RTV sealer under the collar and a ring of RTV externally around it so it was sealed from moisture once the small scuttle panel was reinstalled. Dried out the pollen filter and it’s housing and reinstalled filter and cover. Problem sorted.

I have had a similar issue with ABS in that nano reported wheel sensor voltages OK and speed readings were apparent from each sensor but the ABS and Traction faults were still flagged up on the dash. However, nano did tell me a wheel sensor was at fault. It turned out that the resistance of that particular sensor was higher than the other three but not spectacularly so. Changing the sensor cured the fault.

I concluded that the static POST of the system measures the resistance of each sensor (probably by current draw) and flags a fault if out of spec.

In your case the fault is may be ‘lodged’ in the ABS ECU unit and needs clearing - there is a fault there as that is what triggers the dash indications. The faults clear themselves in the WABCO D unit the system is rectified but I am unfamiliar with the workings of earlier units.

Mine are more duct tape than anything else these days. If you get spangly new ones then it’s worth duct taping all around at the edges on the back. Then seal them to the door with non drying ‘goo’ of choice on this duct tape and the vapour barrier won’t rip to shreds when you next (have to, and you will) take it off or release it in places to change the door lock / sort the internal released mechanism out / replace the regulator*

*Delete as appropriate.

Simple way to detect a leak - tape a short length of tissue paper to the end of a stick with about an inch protruding over the end and then go round the manifold and joints. The tissue will flail around even at the slightest leak. May need to stall the fan or at least shield the ‘test probe’ from it during the test. The beauty of this method is you don’t burn your hands and you can get right around the manifold to downpipe joints with ease.

If manifold bolts need to come out plus gas and patience are the order of the day. Soak bolts thoroughly hours before you attempt the job and then start with a (very) small tightening to barely move the bolt and then it’s very slight loosening before very slight tightening and continuous rinse and repeat with the loosening being just a bit more than the tightening until the bolt frees and can be taken out. It takes time but not as much time as trying to remove a sheared bolt!

I have had two (of the many) ABS/Traction faults that have been ‘out of the ordinary’.

The first was a broken reluctor wheel on the hub. This was only diagnosed by jacking the car up and hand spinning the wheel and measuring the sensor output on an oscilloscope. There was still an output but it was ‘odd’ compared to the other three. Testing of the ABS sensor itself yielded nothing untoward - it’s resistance was the same as the others and it was giving an output. Looking down the ‘hole’ for the ‘odd’ output sensor and slowly rotating the hub did indeed show a broken reluctor ring. Hub replaced (pretty cheap and a lot easier than ‘sweating’ a replacement reluctor ring onto the hub) and peace and harmony was restored.

The second was flagged up as a normal sensor fault on NanoCom. However it’s supply voltage was normal and so was the speed output. However it’s resistance was a bit higher than ‘normal’ - not a lot but definitely higher than the others. Changed it and, again, all was well. I deduced from this that the POST by the Wabco unit tests the resistance of each sensor (current draw?) and if outside prescribed limits flags a fault.

Looking back at the invoice I think the total package was put together by Rimmer Bros using the Double S system at its core as the lifetime guarantee is actually with Rimmer Bros. I have to say that Rimmer Bros have stood up to their guarantee with no quibbles whatsoever. The first warranty claim the centre box section was deemed repairable - it was collected, transported to Double S for repair and couriered back to me within 48 hrs. The second time the centre section (again) was not deemed repairable (by photos) so Rimmer Bros delivered a brand new centre section to me within 24 hrs. Can’t fault the service.

My quad tail pipe is a Double S stainless steel cat back system (with centre box). It came with all necessary clamps, nuts, bolts and rubber hangers. Fitted in 2009 it has since undergone two warranty repairs courtesy of the lifetime guarantee so well outperforms anything Klarius can come up with!

Simple job - replace the rusted out rear mudflaps. However, I replaced the puny OEM screws with bigger No14 (6.3mm) size stainless steel screws, SS penny washers (which needed to be ground to fit the recesses in the mudflaps) and No14 plated captive nuts plus plenty of anti-seize (just in case I need to remove them in future). The holes in the the mudflaps also had to be drilled out to 6.5mm to accommodate the new beefier screws.

Whilst replacing the offside mudflap it became apparent that the exhaust mounting rubber to the front of the rear exhaust tail pipe box had broken. Luckily I had a couple of spares so that was quickly replaced.

Talking of exhausts Rangie is very offended by the suggestion that quad pipes are "ridiculous" - Rangie feels and looks just that little bit more sporty in her old age:

OK so it's not like a Ferrari, the rear bumper is shaped to accommodate the quad pipes like this:

Clive,

The OEM is a Rimmer Bros OEM whereas their Genuine LR one is £102. I tend to trust Rimmer Bros but who really knows!

A new OEM fan is less than £60 so I think I’ll just change it at next years annual service and have done with it. It’ll be another of those regular preventative maintenance items alongside the refurbished EAS valve block and compressor although this one has lasted over 20 years and 125k miles so I’ll put it on the schedule for changing again in 2043 🤣

I can inspect the blade roots very carefully without removing the fan and have done so as I assumed this would be where any cracking would start (thanks for confirming) - not a hint of cracking even using liquid (penetrating oil) to help show up hairline cracks. As a preventative maintenance activity I’m not sure removing the fan on each occasion is quite what I am looking for but a regular close inspection of the blade roots is now on the maintenance schedule.

OK, you guys have initiated a level of nervousness I didn’t have previously. I have been out to examine my fan but can find no sign of fatigue or cracking, indeed it looks pretty damn good. I have now put a fan inspection on my list of preventative maintenance activities/schedule but what exactly should I be looking for as an indication it should be changed before a horror show ‘explodes’ on the scene?

OK, I didn’t get the ‘project’ bit from your earlier posts, more a what’s the minimum to swap engines to keep the P38 running for some more years. However, what is the evidence that the original engine has low oil pressure and if confirmed and not the oil pump then what else can it be? For really low oil pressure there must be a hell of a leak somewhere (internal or external) or the bottom end must be rattling like a good ‘un. Either way, the original engine must be a bit of a risk to refurbish if the cause isn’t known.

If I’ve got it right, Rutland is going to do some minimal work on the second hand engine before replacing his existing low oil pressure engine in order to rebuild the existing low oil pressure engine and then, for a second time, swapping that back in. Why? If a complete engine rebuild is on the cards why not just rebuild the second hand engine and do the swap once? If the existing engine is that low on oil pressure that a complete failure is imminent then I think a rebuild of it might be a tad risky!

Compression testing is simple on an engine stand - just fit a starter motor and spin it over. If the compression is OK across all cylinders I would leave the top end alone.

Oil pressure will not be such a concern if your newer oil pump is to be fitted. Indeed, once the sump is off (and assuming it’s not full of sludge) I would remove the main and big end bearing caps to check the crankshaft and if OK re-shell the lot. Whilst there do not forget to replace the cruciform seals on the rear main bearing cap. I’d also replace the front crankshaft oil seal as well as the rear. These are all relatively inexpensive items as insurance for the future.