The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
123 posts

I think running the engine will heat the exhaust and sensor in equal measure so may have negligible effect. Externally heating the collar preferentially should yield better results.

I do almost all things myself* including plumbing for which crows foot spanners are invaluable for those tight spaces. Not sure of their utility for this job over and above a standard spanner with nice big bit of scaffold tube?

In an earlier post I did state that Stilsons are the tool of last resort. Not quite true . . . I have been known to undo the odd recalcitrant nut with a cold chisel and lump hammer!

*Apart from removing the gearbox/transfer box on the Rangie - without a suitable vehicle lift I considered this a job just that little bit too far for home DIY!

Stilsons: I always feel a bit disappointed like it’s a bit if a failure when I have to resort to the Stilsons but I have, all too often, had to apply them and they rarely fail . . . especially when I have my length of scaffold tube over the handle to give that increased and brutal mechanical advantage!

Heat: Yes, good point. I will take my blowtorch with me when I go grovelling and, if needed, hope I don’t set anything on fire . . . particularly me!

Thanks, I do not have the correct flare nut spanner. However, I have the correct open ended spanner and the correct ring spanner - the latter will be used if the former is looking flakey, the existing sensors are toast so I’ll just cut the wire and use it if necessary. I also have a length of pipe to wield if necessary! Stilsons will be the tool of last resort!!

New Bosch O2 sensors have turned up. I have never removed the sensors on this vehicle and assume it’s just a case of disconnecting the existing ones, unscrewing them and reverse for fitment of the new ones making sure not to touch the sensor end itself. However, I have heard stories of them being very difficult to unscrew so any tips on making this easier would be welcome before I get grovelling underneath.

Genuine LR O rings have turned up. Before I get working on replacing them does anyone have any additional tips, over and above the how to’s, on the procedure. I have done it before but it was so long ago I can’t remember everything I did - I don’t remember cutting/removing the duct just a vague recollection of disconnecting and manoeuvring it out of the way. I do still have the hole cut in the centre console panel - I see it every time I remove the outer trim panel!!

I just had a quick look under - one is easily visible, t’other not so. Once I get it up on its stilts and grovel properly underneath it will submit and reveal itself I’m sure.

Well that explains why three of them appear completely static which struck me as a bit strange! I have put 2 Bosch O2 sensors on order as I couldn’t be sure of the correct NTK ones - may as well change both of them as they are still the originals and the P0155 fault code is intermittent. I can cancel it but it eventually returns after a short while. The P0135 fault code just comes instantly back when cancelled.

Now have to locate one of the O2 sensor connectors - I know it’s up there somewhere but it’s playing hide and seek at the moment!

Genuine LR O rings on order with free delivery so ha to your LPG . . . . . although that is together with a couple of Bosch O2 sensors on the order!

Well spotted. That should be 0.4V, in fact one of the upstream O2 sensors and both downstream sensors are 'pinned' at 0.44V - the Bank A upstream sensor is wanging about at a range of readings 0.1V and 0.8V changing about 4 times a second!

Bosch it is - the OEM ones look to be a third of the price of the 'genuine' LR ones! Although before I go nap I'll check the price of the NTK ones.

BTW, Nanocom seems to use Bank A & B in its values but Bank 1 & 2 in description of fault codes . . . . . although A does correspond to 1 and B to 2 at least!

Thanks Richard. Slight problem is that with the Rangie running a bit rich - see other thread - the cost of fuel to go and collect them (nearest LR dealer is 20 miles away so 40 mile round trip) will probably dwarf postage cost!

During a regular test of the HEVAC system and running the blowers/distribution/blend motors through their paces I just felt a barely perceptible dampness down by the lower blower output an the drivers side and, yes, it's hardly anything but definitely the start of the O ring problem! Been replaced once before in 2009. I'm not going to do the 'replace the matrix job' but what are the best replacement O rings to get (and what to avoid), what size and where from? I'd like to get some that will last another nearly 13 years like the last ones (which I can't find the detail of!).

Vehicle seems to be running absolutely fine with no warning lights or messages but I noticed the exhaust getting a bit black of late and thought it might be running a bit too rich. Plugging in the Nanocom reveals that it is throwing codes P0135 and P0155 which seems to indicate that the upstream O2 sensor heating circuits have both probably gone AWOL (one may have gone AWOL before the other without me really noticing). They seem to be on separate circuits form a common fuse - fuse is OK but one of the sensors appears to be fixed at 4V and the other one is dancing around somewhat. Before I go and order a couple of new O2 sensors can anyone:

a) Confirm my diagnosis or is there something else that could be causing the problem?
b) Recommend makes of sensor to go for (and ones to avoid)?

If the ride was firmer and, therefore, more ‘controlled’ at Standard height there would be no need for the lower ‘Motorway’ height at higher speeds!

Forget pressure for the moment and look at the dynamics of the bag itself. The spring rate just isn’t dependent on the pressure it is also dependent on the flexure of the rubber bag walls. When at High the bag has a lot of opportunity to flex outward. As the bag deflates/lowers and certainly at Motorway level where the bag is doubling over around the ‘piston’ the ability to flex becomes less and less and so the structure becomes stiffer and the effective spring rate increases.

When towing it will feel more stable in Motorway than in Standard. In Motorway the trailer will not be level but tipped forward slightly with resulting increased weight on the tow hitch and, therefore, increased weight on the rear suspension. The pressure inside the air springs will be increased to maintain the same height with the increased weight and the air within them less compressible giving a firmer and more stable, but less ‘compliant’ ride. There may, however, be resulting effects on the trailer but these should be pretty minimal.

For best results and a chance of removing them in future then No14 (6.3mm) hex head stainless self drilling screws and No14 zinc plated (or anodised) U clip captive nuts. For the fronts the lower fixings also require plastic captive nuts but these generally come with the mud flap. If not then CZA4705L is the part number. Upper fixings need a 1” or 1.5” long screw and lower fixings may need a longer 2” or so screw. The captive U clip captive nuts are fixed around the holes previously occupied by the plastic fixings for the wheel arch liner which will need to be removed.

If you want to look OEM then the screws need to be black cross head self tappers but beware that because of where they are and the environment they experience they are traditionally nigh on impossible to remove after a few years!

Do not over tighten the fixing screws as this will cause the rear edges of the mud flaps to come away from their snug fit on the bodywork with an unsightly gap appearing.

By doing the solenoids one at a time I meant number them, then remove them all from the block and then complete the refurbishment of each solenoid one at a time. As they are numbered it should be possible (with a simple diagram) to get them back in the right position after the valve block has been cleaned. I number the solenoids with a white marker pen all on the same side when looking at the assembled valve block and the take a photo of it. That way even a simple diagram isn’t required - just refer to the photo when rebuilding; it also ensures the orientation and wiring routes are maintained.

A few further tips:

  1. Mobile phone is your friend for taking photos at each stage as you disassemble - they are invaluable for referring to when reassembling. Particularly which way the non-return valves and diaphragm go.

  2. Use a marker pen to number the solenoids as they are removed with a simple diagram of which number goes where.

  3. I find it less confusing to disassemble and immediately reassemble each solenoid in turn.

  4. When refitting the pressure switch don’t forget to ‘unwind’ the wires to it a few revolutions before screwing it back into the block.

First time then 3-4 hours from start to finish is reasonable. The secret is to be patient, methodical/systematic and employ extreme cleanliness.

Having refurbished the EAS valve block a few times now I can probably do it in half that time. However, I treat the valve block as a preventative maintenance item so have a spare that I refurbish ready to swap in. When I refurbish the valve block I also thoroughly clean the block itself when completely stripped down which involves a couple of hours in the dishwasher and overnight drying in the nice warm airing cupboard.

When reinstalling always, always make sure the ends of the air pipes are clean and smooth to avoid damaging the newly installed o rings.

Refurbishing the compressor takes 15 minutes or so once it’s out and on the bench. Again, I have a spare that I refurbish as a ready use spare. Inserting the piston and new seal into the cylinder is one of those techniques that once acquired takes seconds but learning the technique can take some time! It is important to make sure the grub screw engages correctly and firmly on the machined flat face on rebuilding. Cleanliness is essential - I once allowed some FOD ingress during one refurbishment and the compressor was toast within a week or so requiring another complete refurbishment.