The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
487 posts

dave3d wrote:

I don't think battery warranty's are worth the paper thay are written on. It is easy for the supplier to say the battery has been misused.
Invariable it has to be posted back to them for testing.

To be fair, Motolite are one of the biggest suppliers here and seem to have a branch on every street corner. People I know who've had a battery go tits-up during the warranty period have had a little guy turn up on a motorbike with a new one within the hour, no quibble.

I know that when one of mine has gone (and they tend to die suddenly) I've never waited more than 30 minutes before a new one is there.

I bet they're wondering why they haven't sold me a new battery recently!

Just to go back to chargers...

I always got around two years out of a battery, or one day after the warranty ran out! Which was a bit of a pain. Everything was working fine, no drain, good charge from the alternator, just the heat killed them.

Invested in a C-tek, and this last battery (same brand as before) has been going for five years now, still happy flinging the engine over. I just tend to throw the charger on every now and again, stick it on its, "Sort the battery out" setting and all's good.

Thanks for replies all.

Forgot to mention the height sensors were new with the compressor, etc., and correct for 1995.

Should have done it this weekend but seem to have wound up working which, I think, should be illegal!

Yes, Richard, working high to low makes sense.

Good idea on the dummy run, Clive, just to double check.

I know, I know, there's bits all over the internet, but I want to do it 100% right and that's how you guys work!

I have cut nylon rod calibration blocks to the standard lengths, I have Nanocom, so what's next?

Do I start at Access and work up, or Extended and work down?

Do I jack up front and back, insert the blocks, drop it and say to Nano, "Fill yer boots," or is there another stage I need to go through?

I set it up a while ago using the tape measure method, but finding a flat piece of road isn't easy here and recently, as I have to drop to Access every time I put her in the garage, she's been playing silly buggers. Nothing I can't sort, but she shouldn't be doing it in the first place.

When I swapped her back to air, after buying on coils, bags (Dunlop) were three months old, compressor was new, valve block was rebuilt, so I see no reason, apart from properly calibrating, why it all shouldn't be happy.

As I say, a simple idiot's guide would be brilliant. 'cos I'm an idiot!

Thank you.


As David says, Double S stuff is good. I managed to find (don't aske me how) an OEM centre and back box when I first got the car, but front pipes were to elude me a couple of years later when the cats had obviously collapsed.

Rimmers had a sale so I bit the bullet and shipped their Double S front pipes over. Lovely quality and bolted up first time. In two pieces as well, so if they ever have to come off again, gearbox X-member can stay where it is.

They also come ready for two lambda sensors (pre and post-cat) on each pipe for the US. I had to blank one set, as mine's European spec, but no problem.

And yes, like above, my last '38 in the UK had a little tappity sound, just before it shoved No.7 piston out! :-)

Another with 16" (although by 8") here.

Coupled with the EAS, just soaks up the roads.

Hello and welcome!

Like GilRichardG, my 4.0L '38 back in the UK was ex-Greater Manchester Police, the only frill being a calibrated speedo.

To be honest, Id rather have that spec (apart from the engine) than the HSE I have here. Life was simpler then!

It's a simple problem. We have long lost the ability to debate and discuss sensibly. So, if my dogma's bigger than your dogma, I win and you're a heretic. End of.

And yes, my P38 steadily rockets in value. In my world anyway.

Smiler wrote:

So just to add to the options, where does the Napa leather interior sit in the hierarchy of seats?

I'm guessing slightly above the Knackered leather in mine!

Cleaned it, drove it.

Within the limitations allowed, of course!

Don't know how long she's been in Manila but, given the traffic here, brakes get a real hammering.

Anyway, there's a fine lip on the front discs, so a change won't hurt.

Alan, you run a P38, there'll never be nothing to do!

Best of luck with the ops and, more to the point, the recovery. Take it easy.


j_rov wrote:

Anyone else got a second p38 for parts, just in case???

Got me a 4.6HSE in the same colour today spares or repairs. It’s almost good enough to put back on the road, but has all the normal issues!!!

The intention was to use it for parts for The Duchess!

I'd kill for a parts car. Still hunting, still not found!

Time to replace the discs. Wouldn't be surprised if they are original at just over 100,000k.

Pads are fairly new (in mileage terms, about 4 years old) but not averse to doing all in one go.

So, what are the recommendations for good quality replacement discs and (maybe) pads? There just seem to be a large choice, so looking for experience here.

Everything else on the braking system has been done.

Thank you.

Done nowt, but have cut several perfectly innocent lumps of nylon rod into EAS calibration block sized lumps.

Does that count?

If I remember correctly, the only O-rings that were specifically to be fitted "dry" were the ones on the cones of the non-return valves. When I did mine, I'm sure I lubed all except those.

Changed the coolant. The stuff that came out was nice and clean, so that was pleasing.

Refilled and, so far, it's stayed there.

I know 265/70/16 won't.

BlackBox told me that duty or VAT shouldn't be charged on repairs.

Just nobody told the Philippine Bureau of Customs.

They'll charge you for anything!

Well, I finally got it back.

Customs charged me VAT on the cost of the repairs carried out in Cyprus.

May their ass holes heal up.