Okay, so having ordered, paid and never received a damn thing from the good Doctor, apart from a litany of useless excuses (of course, that could just be me, RRTH would probably say that his bestest mate pissing off with somebody's money is no harm), my interior still needs sorting out.
There's all sorts of bits I need, e.g., instrument binnacle, rear carpet finishers, transmission tunnel side trims, all sorts. More to the point, all sorts I simply cannot get here.
Anyone up for receiving a shopping list, sourcing and a courier? Ideally a job lot from a single breakers for ease.
Lots of places have got 'some' bits, but not all, so then it becomes an expensive mix 'n' match enterprise, shipping each part and, more to the point, paying whatever made up duty they feel like on each bit. A single ship would work out a lot cheaper. It's all plastic bits, no weight, just bulk.
Happy to pay all costs, plus a (good) few beers, by direct bank transfer before shipping.
Interior is G (Tan) as fitted to the early Epsom Green 4.6 HSE.
Ta ever, ever so.
Well, given that this won't polish out...
And the back's been hit three times by sidecars, plus it's US$1,300 the pair for new, before shipping and duty, there's only one option. Make yer own!
Don't do fibreglass, so the plan is simple and can be read here...
Although I'll warn you there are 60-odd pages to plough, through and I can't really recommend it!
Edited version is buy some 2mm sheet steel, a welder, a grinder and get stuck in.
I want the result to look as close to existing (without the holes!) as possible, including using the spoiler and spots, and rear wing finishers.
Buying welder this week
Watch this space!
Had a run up to Angeles last weekend.
Sunday morning, empty roads, windows down, sunroof open, V8 purring gently. Just pure pleasure.
Got 19 to the gallon as well, according to the computer. Happy with that, as it was her first long run in nearly two years.
Where to go tomorrow morning?
Okay, so way back when, I decided to replace the prop UJs as I was getting a bit of vibration on acceleration.
For some reason that escapes me now, I did 3 of the 4 before having to refit the shafts and use the vehicle. So the vibration, whilst better, was still there. This weekend, I dived underneath again to replace the last one, the back one on the rear prop.
It was pretty goosed, with plenty of slop, so in went the new one. Greased all the others and the prop slides whilst I was there. Job done.
Vibration still there. Damn!
It only happens under two circumstances, hard acceleration and on the overrun at anything above 80kph. It’ll run up steadily to speed without a murmur, it’s only when you boot it. The rest of the time, it’s a smooth as silk.
Any bright ideas?
The three UJs I replaced earlier will only have done a couple of thousand kms, if that and no, they aren’t Britpart!
No, no. I'm not trying to start a hundred page thread on viscosity, but...
Today I did a semi-oil change.
"Whoopee bloody doo" I hear you say and yes, you'd be right, except it's only two weeks and probably 60km or so since the last one.
Last time I came to do this, my usual place was full of dead cars and they couldn't get me in, so I went around the corner to my local Caltex station where they offer the same service. I'm a messy bugger when it comes to oil. Always have been. The other reason is that changing oil in the Pit of Hell that is the apartment parking, ain't no fun.
I normally do changes around every 2,000km at most, as I do a fair bit of short runs coupled with hours sitting in traffic in +30 degrees, both hard on oil. My normal place sells Mobil 1 20W-50 so that's what goes in and for three years she's been happy. The new place uses Halvoline 20W-50, which is actually one of the brands recommended in the handbook. As an aside, 20W-50 is about the only grade you'll see here, we don't need cold weather oils.
So the first couple of days, all is fine and dandy, then I just catch the sound of a small rattle as an echo going up a parking ramp. "Strange" thinks I. The next couple of runs were only short and with no problems. Then, on Saturday, I take her for a fair trip and the noise is back, only louder. It definitely sounds valve train-ish and, of course, you start to imagine the worst. Then I get to thinking, "Wonder if she doesn't like Halvoline?" And let’s face it, always start at the cheap end, eh? To be honest as well, the idea of doing lifters and cam at this very moment does NOT appeal, either financially or location-wise.
This morning I'm awake at 3am and decided to test my theory. I've got 4 litres of Castrol GTX in stock, plus an unopened litre of Mobil 1 in the car so it's time for a Mess-less oil change. Slight problem is that the only thing I have large enough for this task is one of Madam’s casserole pans. Good job she and the Girls are in Tondo this weekend then!
The plan is to drop out 5 or so litres and replace. The filter would just make too much mess and, now 5.30am, I've only got that much new oil. I figure that replacing 76.923% of the oil should prove, or otherwise, my clutching-at-straws theory.
Down we go and under the motor. Carefully place pan and undo sump plug. Oil obligingly goes into pan rather than over the floor. I guess at quantities and stick the plug back in with only minimal arm drippage. So far, so good.
Using Ghetto Funnel (cut off top of coke bottle), throw in the Castrol then, whilst that runs through, place now empty Castrol bottle into pre-thought of carrier bag (to act as bund), gaffer tape the funnel to top and pour oil from pan. Success! Although the bund was a damn fine idea.
Top up with the litre of Mobil to level, tidy up, test drive.
The result? Now been out twice today and so far, not a peep out of it. Let's see how we get on, but I think I'll be dropping the whole lot out, filter and all on Tuesday.
And what conclusions can we draw? Well, it's a tad early to say, but either my ageing V8 really, really doesn't like Halvoline, or the Caltex station is using repackaged chip fat. Who knows?
I think the longest part of this project will be cleaning the pan. It's still got a slight sheen on the water in it.
Before you all rush out and update to the latest release, hang fire a moment.
I seem to remember writing on here that I'd found the touchscreen much more responsive after an earlier update, now I have the opposite problem.
Upgraded to release 1.34 (corrected from 1.35 - that's in the future!) and the bottom half of the screen was a pig to use, but the top was fine. The new update gives you the opportunity to rotate the screen 180 degrees, so the cables on the right side for LHD vehicles, I forgot to click this option initially.
Writing on the BB forum, I was advised to reload again, also clicking the kernal overwrite option, so I did that and the 180. I was also told that I'd need to input my activation codes again. It never asked for those afterwards.
Now only the bottom left of the screen accepts any inputs, which ain't a lot of use.
I'm guessing I'll be told it's a hardware fault, but it does seem coincidental...
But I'll wait for a response from BB and take it from there.
Hold off the upgrade until I get to the bottom of this.
Of course, the '38 has thrown an alarm fault that I now cannot clear!
Coolant temperature sensor - falling temperature fault
It's intermittent, well it would be wouldn't it! When I've got all the kit ready, it wont replicate.
Sensor replacement or anywhere else to look?
Nope, we don't meet in the wilds of Swindon, just here in Manila...
Where their Land Rovers are upside down.
Eight, not bad for a first meet.
One of the guys was getting a set of carpet runners delivered, so I had to ask
Next meet, delivered.
And fitted, Colour isn't as far away as the photo shows.
Next meet included Land Rover Club Philippines. One hundred and many vehicles. Someone should have told the restaurant!
These aren't my pics...
Ooh, those ZUs look good there!
Then there was one I couldn't make...
But i like the photo.
Great fun and the banter is typical, revolving around key-fobs, pros and cons of EAS, whose broke this week, the usual.
A pal of mine here, who runs a Eurocar centric garage and owns a '38 says, quite rightly, "There are some people who really shouldn't own a Range Rover." All the guys I know definitely should! Except those still on coils. :-)
There's another coming up later this month, I'll be making that one.
Had a little get together...
Eight fully functional '38s in the Philippines! Never thought I'd see the day.
One has a Toyota diesel fitted. All gauges and functions working. Just a little box between the engine and BECM and everything talks.
Oh, and happy Christmas all. :-)
Up until yesterday, all was well in Range Rover land. Then the rev counter decided it was hooked up to a screaming multi - cylinder Japanese two stroke.
Not quite, but it overreads by almost 1000rpm. So on tickover it sits at 1750-1800. When driving, it pops up and down with the gearchanges but always +1000.
When I switch off, it drops to 1000, sits twitching for a few minutes, then drops to zero.
Left it overnight to see if it would just disappear, like you do, but no, same this morning.
Before I go wailing into things, any bright ideas, guys?
Over the last few months I've been losing a bit of brake fluid, enough to need a small top-up every couple of weeks. I seem to remember a bit about this in Russell's brake modulator thread on RR.net but damned if I can find the words it now.
I've done pads all round so I know there's no leak at the calipers and the last time I did the oil I had a damn good look at all the lines underneath when it was on the ramp. I've also had a good look/feel around the modulator. No sign and no puddle when its parked either.
Any bright ideas? I've just received the modulator repair kit so will be diving into that at some point and that'll be checked, but is there anything on the 38 equivalent to fluid leaking into a servo on a 'normally' braked car, thus hidden?
So, there's this shopping mall near me to which, on occasion, I am forced by circumstance to visit.
The car park is accessed via a five storey left hand up-ramp.
Maybe five times out ten when I park up and lock, with a happy click of solenoids, she drops to access height. As soon as I start up, back to normal in seconds.
This only ever happens at this single location.
The car park was fitted with a vehicle sensing system above each slot around the same time as I reverted to EAS. Don't know if there's a correlation or if I should get a gecko to live in the '38 to ward off the evil spirits.
Just something I discovered the other day.
I rarely lock the vehicle anyway (virtually everywhere I park has an armed security guard nearby) and being as Land Rover Manila want nearly 450 quid for a remote, I've stuck with using the door lock. I have replaced the latch some time ago. So this is for those in the same position.
Anyway, I went to unlock it the other day and whoops, the key wouldn't turn. "Oh dearie me", I thought. Going to turn the opposite direction, and I noticed that the door handle bit with the lock in moved fractionally, and I mean fractionally. By dint of a gentle twist on this, the door unlocked with no problem. This bit is only held on by one torx head screw, accessible with the door open and if that isn't 100% tight, the lock section moves, et voila, stuck.
Positioned the handle section so the key moved both ways, tightened up the screw and problem solved.
It just may save someone panicking and thinking the worst.
Of course, in your case it may indeed be the worst, but now it may not, if you follow me.
Oh and please no, "Get a new fob or you will die" replies in a US accent please. :-)
Get yourself a pint and pull up a stool...
Just wondering if anyone else on here has had a similar experience ordering stuff from a certain “doctor” on the other place. If not, then take this as a possible heads up.
Previously, I had a valve block rebuild kit from him, which although slow, did finally arrive. To be fair, the timespan wasn’t his fault, the delay occurred with the post at this end.
So back April 2015, I agreed to buy some interior parts that he had sourced for me, namely :
Right and left rear carpet finishers (biscuit)
Parcel shelf surrounds, L&R (biscuit)
Centre box lid (black)
Instrument binnacle surround (black)
Along with those, I also ordered a compressor rebuild kit for my stock and a rover raiser as well. The latter not because I couldn’t knock up something similar, but the idea of trailing from place to place here just knowing each one would only have one bit I need in stock and no idea when they would get any more, made it not worth the candle. Anyway, sorted, price agreed and paid for. I also paid for the stuff to be couriered so that the Philippine postal service were kept well out of the loop!
I then had a string of mails telling me of a litany of problems he was having with couriers and how everything he sent outside the USA was being returned by three different ones. Not just me, but a radiator bound for Dubai as well and a steering rack to Ireland. We got a whole host of other stuff about travelling, losing family members, daughters getting married in Thailand as reasons for not responding to mails and messages.
Eventually, we agreed that we’d try the US Parcel Service as a last resort and risk the inevitable involvement of PHLPost. That was 13 December 2015 and his last mail said he’d get them away on the following Monday and send me proof of postage that I’d need for here. “George DEAL Brother! They’ll go on Monday and I’ll follow up with the tracking.”
Since then nothing. No proof of postage, no kit, no updates, no response to my mails (last one yesterday), a big fat zero.
I’ve also spoken to a fellow ’38 owner here who had similar experience over a radiator and I ended up sorting him one out from the guys who made mine. He’s very happy with it, as am I, but he’s not so chuffed about his dealings with the good doctor.
I considered raising this on the other place but have the feeling the post would last for around 30 seconds before disappearing, due to being an insult to a “forum god”.
I know most of you, being in the UK and Europe, can source this type of stuff fairly easily, but for me it’s not so simple, hence, when the doctor said he could supply the interior bits I needed, I went with him. I can't help but feel that I'm going to write this off as a bad job.
So to anyone else thinking of going down this route, beware.
Still need the bits though!
Okay, so when I first got this thing, it had slightly wandery steering, reminiscent of my old Series 2. However, with a little bit of judicial adjustment at the box, we eliminated that and it's been spot on ever since. Well, nearly...
The other day I was on a dead straight road doing around 40kph (a massive achievement here) when it felt like the road wheels had become disconnected from the one in front of me. Cranking the wheel to the left caught up with things, but now it has a distinctly, and I mean distinctly vague feel about it in the straight ahead position. The wheel has to be at around 45 degrees left to maintain level flight, whereas before, it was dead straight.
Got underneath, yanked and levered stuff around, but there was no untoward movement in any of the joints or bushes that I could detect. Moving things via the roadwheels is smooth and easy with no hangups or tight spots. Moving the steering wheel, even a tiny amount when stationary, results in a corresponding movement in the road wheels, and vice versa. It only seems to be an issue on the move, when sometimes you have to give a larger input than normal to keep things straight. Like there's a bit "missing" between me and the road, if you get me.
If I'd hit a bloody great pothole, my first stop would have been tracking, but I was on one of the roads that was re-done for the Pope's visit, so it's like a billiard table - for now anyway. It also doesn't account for the suddenness of the occurrence.
Not seeing anything obvious, I seem to remember a post on the "Other Place" about an issue with the slip joint for the steering wheel adjustment. Only problem is a) I'm damned if I can remember anything about it and b) I can't find the post anyway!
Can anyone remember it or have other ideas?
Ta ever so.
Sooo, whilst I'm waiting for a bit to arrive, I'm going to start the brake overhaul. Pads were done last year and have hardly any kms on them, so they're fine, but replacing rubber flexis with braided, doing the modulator modification, replacing the accumulator and doing the rear brake bias thingy (can't remember its name!) mod as well. This'll all be over a few days.
What I'd like to do is drain off as much fluid as possible before I get started, so I've got an empty reservoir, etc.
Crack a rear nipple and run engine?
Just undo each hose at the wheel cylinder and stick a jar under each while I go and have a few beers?
Time is not of the essence, so what's the best way to drain the system?
Note, I'll be working in an apartment car park (hence trying to drain now and minimise mess on dismantling) and on my own (although I can get someone to assist for the final re-fill/bleeding part), so the easier the better.
Ta ever so.
Well, now she drives straight and level thanks to her recycled truck tyre Panhard rod bushes, and the valve train is now silent again due to the application of actual motor oil, it's the turn of the brakes. Been fine up until yesterday morning when it took around two minutes for the warning light to go out and the ABS pump to stop. Same today. It's always been 15-20 seconds or so.
Guessing it's time for an accumulator then!
remind me how to stick up a photo on this site. I've used RRTH's favourite search, but get nowt of any use back.
I've a little tale of Goodridge to relate, but it needs pics!
I thank yew.
Just finished the brake modulator overhaul and modification as supplied by Range Rover Solutions in Australia. I have no intention of trying to usurp Russell Botha's excellent and detailed instructions, but here's a couple of things I found along the way. Remember I'm a left hooker, some of this will be easier/different on a RHD.
First thing is that Russell recommends having the suspension at standard height to make later bleeding easier. If you are 7'13" this may be an option. I pulled the ABS relays and fuses and dropped to access. I can run it back to standard without firing up the pump later.
The modulator is big. It's big and it's awkward. Do your best to get as much fluid out as possible. Disconnecting the line between the pump and reservoir at the res end was easiest for me. I put plenty of rags underneath to catch errant drips when you start to undo the hard lines.
Once out, you drift the pins that hold the fork in giving you this little lot...
Then you attack the modulator from the other side. So far everything went swimmingly and as per the book, until it came to remove this...
I had to use some of this...
I was careful to heat the plug rather than the surrounding alloy. It needed 4 or five heat/cool cycles before finally letting go. You can probably see why...
I could then drift out the gizzards from the other end. A 1/4 drive extension bar is ideal for this as it sits squarely on the end of the cylinder to be drifted, with zero chance of internal damage.
The little filter is a tad tight. I went gently all the way around, applying tiny pressure only, like this...
This is what all the fuss is about...
Mine were in one piece but very easily broken for removal. Getting pretty brittle, I'd say.
New ones fitted up no problem...
Then it was time for o-rings...
There's seven. I could only find homes for six!
Hiding in the end of this...
You can see it in the instructions photo. It looks a bit like a cartridge firing cap, is this...
Just drift it out from behind and this is where your 7th o-ring lives! It seems to have no purpose than as a blanking piece. I dunno? Anyway.
Reassembly is very straightforward, giving you this...
Then the fun starts. Getting the pig back in. There's no pictures of this. I haven't got enough hands.
Russell gives you the choice of bench fitting the reservoir or leaving it until the modulator is in. On a left hooker, leave it off.
As you look at the modulator in the vehicle from the front, there are three hard lines on the left, two at rear bottom, up by the bulkhead, one towards the front, three on the front and a single one, with banjo fitting on the right side.
On a RHD vehicle, the first three lines, on the left, will be towards the wing and access should be fairly good. On LHD, someone put an engine in the way and they are a bastard! Especially the two bottom ones. To start with I tried to fit these before locating the modulator, trying to make access easier. Don't bother. The rearmost, which on mine, feeds the front LH caliper, runs underneath the modulator and with that loose, it's impossible to get the right angle on the pipe with a very real risk of crossing the thread. Fit the mod up, break four fingers on your left had and get stuck in there. You'll get at least a 5 degree turn on the spanner every time and it only takes an age, so get on with it. This is one of the reasons I recommend access height. I was already stood on points like a bloody ballerina as it was.
Once you've got these two on, the rest are pretty straightforwards. Once you've done, refit the reservoir. A smear of brake fluid on the rubber bungs and steady pressure worked for me.
Amazingly, the fork slotted happily over the pedal and travel is nice and smooth.
So it's in, all connected up, which brings me to a question. The instructions tell me to pull the plunger on the brake switch out, push the pedal in slightly and refit. Mine doesn't want to come out at all. I seem to remember somewhere about the very early ones (mines January 1995 build) not being the same. Can anyone shed some light?
Apart from that, I'm still waiting on the hoses (which are somewhere in the Philippines) and I can get some fluid in there and see if it all works.
Apart from the plastic washers looking on their last legs, some of the o-rings weren't particularly pretty, so I'm glad I got in there and replaced them all. Interestingly, my modulator is dated 1997 on a 1995 vehicle and Nanocom tells me I have 4 wheel traction control. Ah well.
Once again, top instructions from Russell, the actual job itself really isn't difficult.
A quick, "How long is a piece of string?" type question.
As we know, the P38 has O-rings for all sorts of gubbins. I've done the valve block and the EAS is fine, I've got o-rings in the modulator upgrade kit, so no problem, but I really need to finish off my air-con installation and it needs rings for the new condenser and dryer joints before a re-gas. For this I'm told that I ideally need Viton (which seem to be a quite versatile 'general') ring or Neoprene (which don't) rings. Okay.
So the question is, my local hardware shop has a huge range of ring sizes but he has no idea what they are made of. If you were to go out and buy a 'box of o-rings, please' from a non-specialist place, what would you likely be getting?