I think some had it but not all. Easy way to tell is to look at the part number on the ABS modulator, STC2778 is with Traction Control, STC2779 is without according to LRCat, although Craddocks site has them the other way round.

A Disco 1 rots so quickly soon they will be completely extinct so the few that remain will go up in value purely on rarity (although having used one from brand new in 1993 until it was pensioned off at 10 years old, I can't understand why anyone would want one).

It isn't so much the Vogue that fetches good money, it's cars that have been looked after. A Vogue is not much higher specced than an HSE, just it came with everything as standard rather than almost everything and many buyers added the bits it didn't have as options. The only one that is really different is the Vogue SE which came with everything.

There's dogs of P38s about that have been abused and neglected (the only reason a V8 will overheat) and then there's ones that have been looked after and are worth good money. This one, a Jap import, on coil springs (and sitting too high so will likely handle like a blancmange), the book showing on the HEVAC, peeling aftermarket stick on plastic wood and nothing really special, didn't reach the reserve https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/auctions/2000-p38-range-rover-46-hse-w8evOg? but still reached a good price.

Good news then. I suspect someone has used aftermarket stretch bolts that are too hard and managed to do them up as per the instructions so they are way too tight. First time I went to buy stretch bolts, I was asked if I wanted decent ones or cheap ones. when I asked the difference I was told the cheap ones might stretch, might not or might break so I went for genuine LR ones. Since then I've always used the studs, expensive but they work and you know how much pressure they are putting on.

Don't try heat as the alloy will expand more than the steel and make it tighter. A good smack may help though. See how many you can crack undone, just an 1/8th of a turn will be enough that the head won't be distorted, and if you need to drill the heads off the remaining stuck ones. When I took my engine out, 3 of the flex plate bolts came out but the fourth refused to budge until I'd rounded it off. I started off with a 2mm drill down the centre of it for the depth of the head, then went up a bit at a time until I reached 8mm and the head just fell off. Cobalt drills, cutting fluid and patience. With a head bolt it won't matter if you aren't completely central as the holes in the heads are bigger than the bolt diameter.

Or see how many of them will move with brute force and use some cobalt drills to drill the head off those that won't shift?

That may be why only one head was off before? I've never had a problem getting them out but it has involved a serious amount of grunt and a big long bar. Maybe my plug socket is a better quality one that yours? They do tend to go with a hell of a crack though. I use the plug socket with a 2" extension so the handle clears the head casting and my big bar. The short extension means there's less chance of it twisting sideways. 3/4" drive, 6 point impact socket should shift it.

Of course your other option is that as the head gaskets aren't blown and you are only replacing them as a preventative measure, just leave them......

Yeah, Proline, ANR4849 which is probably cast into the inside.

As mine is ex-police, it still has the huge Spraystopper mudguards on it which are just cut from a sheet of this https://www.truckware.co.uk/acatalog/Anti-Spray_Mudflaps_-_Manufactured_by_Clearpass.html. There would be nothing to stop you cutting them more to the size of the original ones and using the original mounting points (if they are still there that is)

That looks about right, 5/8ths of an inch is 15.875mm which would explain why a 16mm plug socket fits nigh on perfectly.

I use a 1/2" drive 6 point spark plug socket on the head bolts, the one with a smaller hex for plugs used on a lot of modern cars. It's probably some strange Imperial size, but 16mm, 6 point is a nice fit. I use the handle from my trolley jack which is about 5 foot long on the Tee bar. They are seriously tight and need a lot of grunt, hence the use of the jack handle. Heads are symmetrical so the tightening sequence is the same for them both and the undoing is the reverse order.

Wing liners are held in with plastic plugs but the mudguard has to come off too and that is held on with rusted screws and almost always need a grinder to get them off.

Something that most will find hard to believe, I polished it..... Took it into the village first so it could be attacked by a team of Romanians with soapy mitts and a pressure washer which got it clean, then got it home and out with the Turtle Wax. Not quite up to the standard of those that are into detailing, but it's clean and shiny rather than it's usual dull and filthy.

Might even clean the dog nose prints off the inside of the windows tomorrow if I can be bothered.

Looks like at least one of the heads has been off before. It may have been swapped or it may just be that they cleaned the rockers on one head but not the other. That might explain why the dirtier one of the two appears to have a slight leak, someone just did one side. That would also explain why the inlet manifold bolts weren't all torqued up the same amount.

But, as you say, so far so good. See what I mean about being able to get to the mating faces of the water pump when everything else is out of the way?

I've seen it in RAVE somewhere but I can't find it now either. You have to push the glass one way and lift the opposite side. So you would carefully lever the glass towards the car and the outer edge should pop out of it's clips, OR, you carefully lever the glass away from the car and the other side pops out. Hopefully someone that has done it more recently than me will be able to tell you......

Nah, screwed together by Land Rover Special Vehicles, they build them properly.

j_rov wrote:

Thanks as always (you must be on here all day!!!)

Laptop is permanently logged in and I just refresh whenever I walk past it. Been a bit remiss today, been out to buy a kitchen for a Buy to Let we're buying, watched F1 qualifying, watched HRH Phil's funeral, went outside, masked up and finished painting a speedboat and now waiting for dinner to cook......

Try reverse flushing the rad and check the thermostat. It may well be clogged especially if, as Symes says, someone has mixed antifreeze types or put gloop in it for whatever reason (I've known people put K Seal in a cooling system when tightening a Jubilee clip would have stopped the leak). It has to be filled properly so there's no air in there or it will spit it all out.

And, 4.6 V8.... none of that derv muck...

(ducks for cover)

You can share my dugout if you like......

Pictures weren't showing initially until I edited the links, should be OK now.

Easy enough to test the heaters, put your meter on the Ohms scale and see if you have a low resistance between the two pins on each plug. Backrest rarely fails but the base often does as people will insist on sitting on it and breaking the element. Swapping the cover is not a fun job, see https://web.archive.org/web/20180513085246/http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/seats/seatheat4.html

Bleed the air out, plug up the hole and see if it starts to seriously pressurise. With the cooling system open it will overflow due to thermal expansion and probably an air lock. What does it run like when it is running? All 8 or does it misfire? Does it idle smoothly? Any tapping noises which would suggest a liner. Pull the plugs and do a compression test to see if any are down. Mayo may be front cover or may just be condensation due to lack of use.

This assumes it's a V8 and not an oil burner. If the latter I've no idea, never had anything to do with them.

They are popular in the US for some reason, maybe they were standard fitment on some models over there.

Ah, I meant retain your backrest and use the new bases as usually it is the base that is worn out but the backrest is OK. However, as they are different colours that isn't an option. Looks like you need bypass resistors then.

SRS is in the backrest only so you could mix and match, using the existing backrests and new bases. Or just get some bypass resistors to plug into the wiring so the SRS system thinks they are still there https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113954336789