You should have the sensors in the pre-cat (as in, nearer the engine) holes and bungs in the post cat holes. Bungs with the right thread are often sold as replacement sump plugs.

The O2 sensors come with the sealing washers, much like the washers on spark plugs.

Dropping the crossmember isn't as bad as it looks. You'll need a jack to support the rear of the gearbox, a crowbar to get the crossmember out from between the chassis rails and a club hammer (and another jack) to put it back.

My boat is very slightly Range Rover related as I tow it behind mine. In fact, when launching and recovering it back onto the trailer, I back down the slipway until I can hear the exhaust bubbling because the ends are under water.

This was last Tuesday when I took it out with my stepdaughter and my boating mate Phil (aka Holland and Holland). He shot a brief video to send to my other half who was slaving away in the office at work while we were out in the sunshine having fun.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HelWU9AACzw

Unfortunately it didn't all go quite as planned. After one run along the river we were sitting next to the slipway and decided to have one more run, only to catch the prop on the concrete edge of the slipway. So £50 in fuel and another £180 for a new prop. I now know why boat stands for Bring Out Another Thousand.....

Due to the way they are bolted in, it isn't really feasible to enlarge the mounting holes to allow you to adjust the position of the sensor to get the readings to match. You might be able to do it by bending the arm until it matches with the one on the other side?

Having searched the ETM in RAVE, it doesn't appear to even mention the oil cooler fan on the diesel. I would suspect it is simply turned on by the temperature switch on the side of the cooler so will have a power feed, the switch and the fan with nothing else involved. Where it gets it's power and earth from is anyone's guess. I know people have had trouble finding the part number for the switch though as even the parts listing seems to ignore it.

If it is really humid and the drains are partially blocked, the condensation can't drain fast enough and it will flow into the intake trunking. Then there is a convenient join in the duct for it to dribble out of. Sealing that is a good idea too while you are in there. I cleared my drains with a spare length of 6mm EAS pipe but the spiral curtain wire should do the same job nicely.

I found on mine that the drain tubes weren't a nice tight fit onto the spigots so when it was really humid it was coming out faster than it could get out of the tubes so would drip. It's a fiddly job, but see if you can get a tie wrap around it and pull it tight. I used a pair of long nosed pliers to get it into place and pull the tie wrap tight. I've had no further reports of wet feet since.

Yes that's right. If you look at how the gears are meshed with the new pot in place, it can ride up and become disconnected from the pot so the gear turns but it isn't turning the pot. So a couple of thin plastic washers stop it from riding up.

He'll be OK until the RH blend motor sticks on full heat......

When mine first failed, years ago not long after I'd got the car, it failed on full cold. In mid winter, while driving through a blizzard in France. Ended up driving while sitting in a sleeping bag until I got to some services, bought a roll of duct tape and taped over all the driver's side vents.

Either way, it will at least tell you if the fault is in the HEVAC if it still happens on his HEVAC. You won't damage yours by putting it in a poverty spec car, it will just flag an error if you try switching on the heated screen or seats as it won't detect any current being drawn.

Can you whip the HEVAC out of yours and see if you still get the same fault? The only time I've known one die was when 12V was put on the motor connector while it was still plugged into the HEVAC, that blows the driver chip. But in that case it won't move.

Yes, the arrows line up as they should with those pots. The dead spot will be what is causing it to fail the self test.

The ones I use are from Mouser Electronics, Mouser part number 531-PT15GV02103A22ES (https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Piher/PT15GV02-103A2020-E-S?qs=DPoM0jnrROVsaSbOUHWyTQ%3D%3D). One problem I found and it may be that you have the same, is that they are not quite as tall as the original ones, so it is possible for the gear to ride up the spindle so it no longer meshes. My solution for this is to put a couple of small plastic washers (from some bits left over from assembling a desktop computer for my step-daughter) on the spindle so it can't rise up and become disconnected.

The feedback pot isn't sending a reading to the HEVAC. When you force it to move from one setting to another using the Nanocom, you should see the percentage change as it moves. If it isn't, then the HEVAC doesn't know what position it is in so flags the error and doesn't try to move it again. The Nanocom error isn't really of much help, but it does at least tell you which motor is causing the error and you can then confirm by doing as you have and looking for a change from the feedback. On initial switch on, the HEVAC drives the blend motors over their range to check for correct feedback. If it doesn't see a change it stops at one end of the travel or the other. Sods law says it will stop at full heat in summer and full cold in winter. You can sometimes get it working again by giving it a squirt of switch cleaner and working it back and forth a few times. If you take the gear off to work the pot, make sure when you put it back the arrows line up.

https://rangerovers.pub/topic/898-calibrated-speedos?page=1#pid27063

Occasional number plate light being out may just be a poor connection in the bulbholder. When checking lights and finding one not working, a thump on the tailgate will often bring it back on. If it doesn't, it's new bulb time.

Trailer light blinking will be when the BeCM has detected more current being drawn than the one 21W rear indicator bulb would draw so it thinks there's another one on a trailer. Bad earth at the rear light cluster maybe?

I hope you told him that the Thor doesn't play nicely with aftermarket MAFs, it needs to be a genuine Bosch one.

Don't forget that with it disconnected it will run a default fail safe fuelling map, whereas with it running from a duff one, it will fuel to suit the incorrect readings from the MAF. Did you check the live readings? MAF output should be 17-23 kg/hr at idle and 57-63 at 2,500 rpm.

Left hand pins seized. Think about how it works, the inner pad is pushed in by the piston and the outer pad is pushed in by the calliper sliding towards the inside of the car. If it can't slide, the piston releases the inner pad but the calliper doesn't slide so the outer pad is permanently binding.

I don't know which ones they were but an owner near me asked me to look at his car as it had EAS errors. It had been into 'his mechanic' to have some work done and one thing they had done was replace all the height sensors. I told him it would need calibrating and that was probably what the problem was but when I checked it, both fronts were giving duff readings with them jumping all over the place. I replaced them with a pair of used originals, calibrated it and he's had no problems since. Oddly, the rears were fine.

Pete12345 wrote:

Has anyone contacted with a sensible offer ?? i.e. Definitely only £500 as it is.

That would be my valuation too. I sold my Ascot (which was HSE spec plus a couple of other bits) for £1,800 just over a year ago. Although a year older, it had all new front suspension and steering ball joints, headlining done and everything working. So working back from that, £500 to buy it, tyres are flat so it'll need a set of tyres at £120 a corner even for cheap ditchfnders, headlining at another £100, same again to unlock the BeCM if it needs it (pictures show the driver's door panel off so someone has probably made things worse by playing with it) and £50 for an MoT (plus whatever is found when tested), so even with the bare minimum done to it, it would still stand you at £1,250. Better to buy it and break it, £600 for the engine, £300 for the cats and £350 for the gearbox before you even start on the smaller bits.

Bolt wrote:

Granted, this site is blessedly "Brit-Centric" in nature, however there are still a lot of owners all over the world, including, YES! here in the former colony AKA the USA.

That was how this site came about, as an antidote to the US bias on rr.net. Admittedly, It did involve Gordon and I sitting in a pub in Glasgow in 2014 and coming up with the idea after quite a lot of beer when both of us had recently been banned by RRTH for posting the tagline on this site

No way to know what the final straw was with most of them, but due to the lack of real mechanics over here who are willing to even look at one of "Those things" and the sad fact that there is no shortage of unethical charlatans who are perfectly willing to take enormous sums of money to fix something, only to get it wrong, at best and make things worse usually.
As with everywhere I am aware of, the old skilled trained experienced guys are getting pretty thin on the ground.

There is a lack of real mechanics everywhere as the older ones retire and the younger ones don't have the experience or correct mindset to work out what a problem is without a computer that tells them what part to replace. They are skilled (semi-skilled?) parts fitters, not mechanics. Last week I was asked to look at a Ford Granada that has been fitted with a Rover V8 of unknown origin which was running really rough. The owner's son was helping me and he works for a Jaguar independent workshop. From the 35D engine number I could see it was a 3.9, EFi from a manual 88-94 Classic or Discovery. The EFi has been removed and an Edelbrock manifold and carb fitted. The problem was that only 4 of the HT leads were in the right place on the distributor cap and the timing was way out. The son has only ever worked on an engine with coil on plug coil packs and had no idea how to adjust the ignition timing, a distributor was completely alien to him.

The only indication that appears is the red led on the dash will be flashing to indicate it thinks the alarm is on.
Having disconnected the alarm horn long ago, I don't know that it would not be bleating like Shaun the Sheep!

If the alarm is triggered as well as the horn it would usually switch on the hazard lights too, so if it isn't flashing at you, then the only thing still working is the LED. As I have no idea how Simon's chip works, I'm not sure how that works. Under normal circumstamces, when you unlock the car the BeCM turns off the alarm and sends a code to the ECM to enable it. As far as I know, there is no 'handshake' back to the BeCM, it blindly sends the code. On a GEMS you can unlock the car so the alarm is turned off, the code is sent and you don't get an immobilised message, even if the engine ECU is unplugged. The BeCM is happy and has done its bit so will even allow the starter to turn the engine over (the starter is disabled on a GEMS if immobilised). So quite why you don't still get the Immobilised message on the dash and the alarm doesn't get triggered, I have no idea.

So, if the S-chip is a method of keeping people from getting immobilised due to their lack of knowledge of the proper maintenance procedures for the locking system, then I say, sell one to everyone who has had immobiliser issues!

And there you've nailed it, proper maintenance. I won't drive my car if something either doesn't work or it feels or sounds different until I have investigated and fixed whatever is causing the problem (except in the case of the seat heaters, I've fixed them once but as I keep sitting on the seats, I've broken the elements again and, as I have cloth seats, don't really need them). So when someone says they've been locked out and then casually mention that the locks have been dancing for years now and they've done nothing about it, I feel like telling them it is their fault then. It's been telling them something isn't right but they ignored it, so now it is punishing them for their neglect.

Who has the sign off: "Land Rover, making mechanics out of drivers since 1945"

Johnno, an Aussie on rr.net. It's actually since 1948 but I think it is more from the point of view of mechanical issues, for the P38 owner it should be, "The P38, making electrical, electronic and pneumatic engineers out of owners since 1994"

Apparently, he's had it listed previously for over 2 grand, so now he is open to offers. I doubt he would accept a sensible one though, he thinks it is worth more than it is. If you look at the MoT history it's had quite a few advisories for rust on the bodyshell in the past.

@Bolt, Any P38 in the UK with immobilisation issues won't end up in the breakers unless that is all they are worthy of but rather than being in a breakers yard they will be bought by someone that will break them and sell off the parts, a P38 will fetch around £3k as a pile of saleable parts. Worst case, a locked out BeCM can be unlocked for around £100. With Simon's mod, what happens if a car is immobilised? I know it will still start and run but do you end up with a dash that tells you it is immobilised?