You need a replacement HEVAC. The fans should run at low speed when the compressor clutch is in and only go to high speed when the pressure in the AC system gets too high. The power to the relay from the Black/Yellow wire on pin 7 should only be there when AC Grant is showing Yes. That is what controls the clutch to stop the system being over-pressurised. With it having a permanent 12V on it, that feature has been removed.

That link is useful. My heater pipe sensor died, or it would read correct when cold or hot, but while heating up it would go to -40C. I found they are NLA but from a post on rr.net, that said it needed a 22k thermistor, I did the same as described in that link. Only to find that it read very low. Added a 10k resistor in parallel and it reads something like sensible so the heater works as it should but not correct. That link shows a 10k thermistor being used so it looks like I'll be changing mine.

It was embarrassed about being seen with lesser cars at Lidl. If it isn't working mechanically, I'd suggest replacing the door latch asap.

Original engine but rebuilt with top hat liners at 287,500. Heads are still the originals. Gearbox was replaced at 454,185 as it lost all drive but that actually turned out to be the torque converter. Both diffs replaced at some point, all wheel bearings are original. Brake discs have been replaced about 4 times though......

Isn't it +11 hours time difference? If you posted at 8am on the 7th Dec, the site shows it as 20:56 on the 6th. So 23:06 on the 29th December here would be 10:06 on the 30th for you as you are ahead of us.

Sounds like a plan to me, it'll be like the days of Lockdown when nobody was allowed out so had to entertain themselves somehow.

To be honest I thought it was the previous December. It was July 2014 when I was up in Glasgow for the Commonwealth Games and we were sitting in a pub when the idea of a virtual pub came after 5 or 6 pints of a rather nice, locally brewed, Commonwealth Ale as an antidote to RR.net.

But being very sad, I've just gone into my 2015 email inbox and sure enough, there's the email timed at 01:53 on 30/12/2015 with a link and the suggestion of having a play and seeing if I can break it (which I did, a mere 16 hours later).

From that tiny start of half a dozen or so in the first week, the memberlist now shows we are up to almost 10,000 members. A shame a large proportion are spammers or bots. Equally a shame that some of the original members, Orangebean, dave3d and Ferryman to name just a few that I am aware of, are no longer with us.

Got stuck in a stationary queue of traffic on the A1 today after a couple of cars had a coming together. You know how it is, after a couple of minutes sitting in Drive with your foot on the brake, you stick it in Park and just wait. Then the fire engine, ambulance and two police cars thread their way through the queue and you know you are likely to be there for a while. You idly look around at the other poor buggers sitting in the queue around you, wonder if you should open the can of drink in the car and then have a mental argument with yourself that while you might be getting thirsty, if you are going to be there for a while, you'll be bursting for a pee, so decide against it. HEVAC is showing 4 degrees so you keep the engine running and you glance at the dash to make sure the temperature gauge isn't starting to climb, then I noticed the odometer. I always reset it when I fill the LPG tank so I'd managed 33.3 miles of my 45 mile journey (with no exits off the A1 between me and the end on the red line on the satnav) but it was what the main display was showing that made me take a picture.....

gordonjcp wrote:

Do you want a public subforum set up for that? It's no bother...

Nah but as it's a virtual pub it should probably really be in Opening Time. The place for any random topic not specifically P38 related, just like any real pub.

The dipstick tube on my boat engine is fitted into the sump plug. It's on one side but near enough at the bottom of the sump. It's a solid plug with a threaded hole in the centre where the dipstick tube is fitted. So I can either unscrew the tube from the plug or, once I've done that, unscrew the whole plug. I reckon there is enough room under the engine to get a bowl under it which I can slide forwards out from under the engine if I take the bilge pump out (which sits just under the front of the engine. I've seen pictures of an arrangement where there is a tap instead of the drain plug and a length of hose which can be pushed through the drain hole in the transom which seems a much better idea to me.

Not sure about cooler running. My engine is a 4.3 litre Mercruiser V6 which is nothing more exotic than 3/4 of a 5.7 litre V8 small block Chevy and runs at around 170F. No idea what 170F works out to in proper units but as it is in the middle of the gauge, I assume it is correct. According to the engine manual, the oil pressure at 2,000 rpm should be 30-55 psi and more than 4 psi at idle. I'd be seriously worried if I saw oil pressure below 10 psi even at idle and mine sits at around 50 psi when running, dropping to 35 at idle when hot. So it must like the 15W-40 I've put in it.....

That's an odd one, never seen that before, as you say, the BeCM retains its settings when teh battery is disconnected. The only possibility I can think is you had an iffy connection at the OBD port which might explain the rapid relay operation as it connected then reconnected.

If you want the picture to appear in the post, click on the Image icon at the top of the box you are typing in (the one that looks like a picture frame) and a box will pop up asking for the picture hyperlink, paste the photo link in that box (making sure the https/:: already in the box is overwritten) and it will appear in the post. Like this.....

I use 15W-40 semi synthetic in my boat engine but it has roller cam followers rather than the flat tappets you have in yours. As it also have a fully rebuilt engine, there's no sludge in there either (although there was when I stripped it down). I suspect the biggest problem with boat engines is that very few have a sump plug, or anywhere to drain the oil into, so most just suck it out the dipstick tube if they actually bother to change the oil at all. My experience is that boat owners tend to treat an inboard engine as that black lump that lives under a cover in the back and gets totally neglected until it stops working.

For the P38, I have used Castrol 10W-60 synthetic on the advice of Ray at V8 Developments after he rebuilt the engine. The P38 workshop manual gives a list of LR recommended oils depending on ambient temperature.

It seems that imgur have had a falling out with the UK regulator so access is no longer available from the UK. Any posts that have an image hosted on imgur now just show a grey box with 'Content not viewable in your Region' in it. Not only that, but if you are in the UK, you can no longer view your own images. A way round it is to connect via a VPN making it look like you are in a different country. That will allow you to download your images at least, although you do lose the date information so you can no longer look at an image and see when you uploaded it.

I've used imgur for many years so had images going back at least 15 years stored on there with the originals scattered around multiple removable drives, my laptop hard drive or have been deleted once uploaded. As this site doesn't have an image upload facility, any pictures in posts need to be hosted somewhere. I've never had any success with linking to images on my Google drive so looked elsewhere and found www.imgbb.com. Works much the same as imgur (but without showing you a load of other peoples uploads before you get to your own).

Using imgbb is much the same as imgur, upload your image, open the image and hit C on your keyboard and a box pops up with embed codes, select Direct Links from the drop down and it gives you a link that you use here. If anything, easier to use than imgur and, like imgur, free to use.

If it is only sticking on one side, check to make sure the cable is pulling it open fully. If not, replace the cable, if it is, all it needs is the two bolts holding the latch slackening off and the position adjusting.

I might be able to get you some if they haven't been thrown away after the door latches were removed from a couple of breakers.

Step-daughter is using hers with an iPhone, initially an elderly iPhone XS and for the last week or so, a brand new 17 Pro without any problem. So not an iPhone problem unless a 15 is even earlier than her XS was and it doesn't like it. Not tried it with my Android phone.

v8vroom wrote:

I did open the bonnet (it actually opened when I assumed it was stuck. Probably got lucky), but I did not know what I was looking at. I know which side it is located, but with the LPG setup in the way, I wasn't sure where exactly to point my eyes at. I'm going to use a bright torch and dig my head deeper down lol.

I posted the pictures from RAVE in your other thread. The steering box is on the end of the steering column so on the RH side of the car (unless your car is LHD for some obscure reason).

You've found a dickhead. A minus figure for toe is toe IN, which is why it is pulling to the left. Taking it somewhere that understands a steering box is far better than KwikFit. It's only taking as much time and energy as it is because you are entrusting it to people that don't know what they are doing (and charging you for the privilege).

A sticky calliper would cause it to pull one way and the easy check for that is to check to see if one front wheel is hotter than the other immediately you stop driving. The hot one is the sticky one.

If the steering box is a long way off centre, then the power steering will cause it to centre incorrectly but it has to be a long way off. With the wheels pointing straight ahead it is simple enough to open the bonnet and look at the pointer on the steering column collar.

Airbag light has nothing to do with an ABS sensor. Do you mean the ABS light?

You can't grease the viscous coupling, it is a sealed unit inside the transfer case.

Why do you think it is the steering box? Was it driving straight before you paid someone that doesn't understand how it works start playing with it? If the problem was tyre wear, then that should have told you what it was. Wearing the inside edges is too much toe out, wearing the outside edges is too much toe in, wearing both inside and outside is too low pressure. Squealing when turning sharply may be low pressure or could also be a seized viscous coupling. As you destroyed a front propshaft, unless it was extremely worn and had never seen a grease gun in the entire life of the car, I would still suspect the viscous.

Also point out that if their machine shows anything but zero on the rear, it hasn't been mounted properly.

Once you have both front wheels pointing in the right direction, set it so it is pointing straight ahead. Then look at the two markers on the steering box body and collar on the input shaft. You might find looking from above and using a mirror will help.

If they line up with the wheels pointing straight ahead, that is it, you don't need to do any more at the steering box. It the steering box is straight but he steering wheel isn't, then take the steering wheel off and move it on the splines. Each spline will move it by 5 degrees so if it needs moving less than that, you adjust it at the drag link. If the steering box marks don't line up showing it isn't central, that also needs doing at the drag link. This is a similar adjuster to that on the tie rod but on the drag link but on the front rod between the steering box output lever and LH front hub. See below only the pic shows a LHD one so it is on the opposite side of the car.

Not sure how you are doing it. You slacken off both clamps and turn the centre hex on the adjuster with both ends of the tie rod attached to the hubs. That causes it to lengthen or shorten the tie rod by moving on the threads at each end of the adjuster. If it is pulling to the left, that means the RH front wheel is pointing to the left compared with the LH front wheel. In other words, too much toe in. So you need to adjust the tie rod by shortening it until it runs straight (although don't forget that with camber on the road in the UK meaning it will drift to the left anyway as the camber will cause it to run towards the kerb). on a flat road surface.

Near to me I've got a bit of road that used to be the A1 but has been bypassed so now goes nowhere so I use that. With the clamps just nipped up so the adjuster can't move on it's own but will still move with a spanner on it, drive along, see which way I have to correct the steering for straight ahead, get out tweak the adjuster one way or the other and try again. If it has made it worse, tweak it back the other way and so on until it runs straight. Then the clamps can be aligned as per the book so they won't foul and done up fully.

Only then do you start looking at the steering box centralisation.