If he's installed a new battery, the fob will have lost sync which is why it doesn't work. If he tried to open the door within 30 minutes of connecting the battery, it will have been showing keycode lockout so won't do anything or accept the EKA

Or get a replacement lock barrel and swap the wafers over so it matches the key.

Chrisp38 wrote:

My query..
If I disable the compressor, let all the air out of the springs then it would be easy for us to lift the car up and down as necessary to fit the blocks, read the heights and store them without the engine running and us having to shout over the engine noise(diesel). What I'm not sure of is would the nano still see the heights and store them etc with just the ign on position 2 ?

In a word, yes. As long as the ignition is on (and the battery is good), that is the easiest way of doing it.. The ECU won't try to take control and change the heights and you won't be gassing yourself with exhaust fumes while under the car either. Jack it up, fit the High blocks, lower it down onto the blocks, read and write the heights, lift it up, remove High blocks and fit Standard blocks and so on.

Just be aware that if the battery starts to go flat the BeCM shuts down different systems one at a time in order of importance. I was doing the calibration on one car using just this method and partway through it started refusing to accept the new settings and then came up with a sensor out of range error. It was only when I noticed that the HEVAC had turned off, that we realised what the problem was. We had to put a battery charger on it, leave it to bring the battery voltage up to something sensible and clear the error before we could carry on.

Not sure if there is anyone on here in Ontario, but what is the exact probllem and it may be possible to walk you through what you need to do.

Just edited the link as the first ebay one wanted almost as much in postage as the cost of the bit.....

Take the cover and pollen filter out and you can see the blower through the hole. Try using the twiddly knob on the HEVAC to speed it up and make sure it does. You can also use the Nano to look at the feedback from the blower as you turn the speed up.

The speed controller is a generic Valeo part used on a number of different cars like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263977084986

You should have mentioned it on Sunday, I've got 3 spare blower motors in the garage......

The Grom BT-3 only connects to the head unit. The steering wheel controls only connect to the head unit too, so the BT-3 will work whether you have the steering wheel controls or not.

If you've got parts from a 98 with High Line, then you will have the door amps and speaker loom from inside the doors. Job done......

If it runs for longer than you are holding the key in the start position, I'd be suspecting the crank position sensor or fuel pump. You can check teh fuel pump easily enough, there is a Shrader valve on the end of the fuel rail, left hand side, at the back by the bulkhead. The fuel pump will run while the starter is turning but should continue to run once the engine starts. You could have a problem where it runs while cranking but doesn't continue once the engine has started.

So it does, thanks for that.

lrcat has been blocked for ages now as the https certificate has expired. I now use the genuine JLR site instead, https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/. There's also https://www.allbrit.de/ but both are online, no idea where a pdf version can be found.

Had a couple of hours free this morning and as the bench is set up for valve blocks, decided to check the next 3. The first one has a driver pack with one dead channel so was put to one side for later or for cannibalisation. Checked the driver pack on the second one to find all channels working so decided to give it a leak test. Putting air into the reservoir port it all came out of the dryer return port suggesting at least one of the NRV's wasn't sealing so took the end off. This is what happens if the desiccant in the dryer makes a bid for freedom......

Another one for the pile of maybe one day or maybe not.

Dunlop compressor is probably toast. If it drops with the bypass valves in either your air springs are getting towards retirement age or, more likely, you have a slight leak on the connection between the pipes and the valves. The pipes form a groove where the O rings sit so will start to leak at some point. Simple fix, trim a millimetre or so off the end and chamfer it with a pencil sharpener. Unless you have some serious leaks in the valve block then anything from the desiccant pack isn't going to end up between the solenoids, so what the green can be is anyone's guess.

In between the nice weather, I've been working my way through the stock of valve blocks I bought ages ago as I can do something useful inside. Got 3 that have been done and tested (it was 4 but I've sent one to Germany for Max) and another 7 to go..... So I'll have a few ready for fitting shortly.

Adding line in and Bluetooth to the Clarion was fairly simple but the main problem with the Clarion units was the display failing and they are NLA. You used to be able to send them to Clarion who would do a fixed price repair which included a new display, adding the line in and making them code free. I sent one to them about 5 years ago and they called me to say that all they had left was grade B displays and would I be happy with one of them. I said to go ahead and that unit went in the Ascot but had started to fail by the time I sold it last year.

If you still have your original DIN plugs there's nothing to stop you trying the Alpine and see how it works. I suspect it will be low on volume without the amps but you've got nothing to lose.

If your 98 had the Clarion it will have had a 10 way speaker output DIN plug, So the 4 channels plus the output for the sub. The Alpine will have an 8 way DIN connector with the sub output on a separate plug. Depending on how much has been changed to fit your aftermarket head unit, it might be plug and play but it might not. With an Alpine that had the DSP amp, you will need the door amps, or something to boost the output, that a mid line system didn't have, they were only fitted on the High line. Unless you intend installing the DSP amp as well, in which case it is far from plug and play, more like a total rewire.

I blasted the underside of mine with degreaser and a pressure washer before taking it for one MoT test. The tester looked at it and asked if it had any oil in it.....

You're right, I've got 6 or 7 that I don't consider worth using as they are badly worn. Most of the 12 valve blocks I bought don't appear to have had much use so the NRV's are in good nick. They came from a company doing off road conversions, and the main problems I have found with them are split diaphragm valves and bad connections in the driver pack to solenoid plug so not all channels were working. I leak test them initially and if the valves are leaking badly, put it to one side and move on to the next one. Any that appear to be good, I'll re-tension the sockets in the solenoid plug, replace the diaphragm and check the pressure switch to make sure that is working. Then replace the O rings and do another final leak test before declaring it good to go. So from those with leaks, I've probably got a few spare valves that weren't leaking.

Take the coils off the solenoids and see where the leak is actually from. I've known them to leak around the plunger seal, out from the bottom where they attach to the main block and even between the two halves of the valve itself. It's not as easy with the block in the car, particularly if the leak is on one of the bottom ones, much easier on the bench but that involves plugging the outputs so you can put pressure into it.

I bought a job lot of valve blocks and have been working my way through them, so could supply you with one that is all done and known good. Drop me a PM.

Your leak could be from the base or from the solenoid tube itself so it looks like you will be taking them apart again. I test them by connecting a compressor to port 6, where the reservoir would normally go, and opening all 4 corner valves and the inlet valve. That puts pressure into each outlet so I can bench test and look for leaks by leaving it overnight. If the gauges haven't dropped after 12 hours or so, they are good. If they have, then out comes the soapy water (as the weather has been a bit iffy recently, I've got 4 valve blocks now all ready to go for anyone that needs one). Doing it like this also checks all of the channels in the driver pack too. Then I can apply power to the 4 corners and outlet valve to let the pressure out.

Note that I test at 12-13 bar and as the system runs at a maximum of 10 bar, if they don't leak at 12, they aren't going to at 10 bar!

It's obviously worn and working too hard so is overheating. The big worry is that either the thermal switch dies so it goes off and stays off or by running near constantly it will wear itself to the point that it can't generate enough air.

Are you on your way out or heading back home?