Swapping the leads wouldn't be a bad idea to see if it moves.

For the MAF, if you are using a Nanocom, it reads in kg/hr so 26 is a bit high but not by a huge amount. Spec says it should be 20 +- 3kg/hr.

The noise suggests it is running on 7, which you already knew, and it is the mechanical bits moving but not as a result of combustion. I've heard it before and it does sound nasty but will go away when all cylinders are firing.

It could be a failing coil pack. Although each coil fires 2 plugs, I've known one car that was misfiring on only 1 of the two. Coil packs are easy to change on a GEMS but a bit of a pain on a Thor, you need small hands and a 1/4" drive socket unless you fancy taking the upper manifold off to get to them.

EAS pump can't be too tight and if slack will be even noisier but it must have the correct dished washers. Bottom ones concave side down, top ones, concave side up

But the V8, if running properly, is as smooth as you can get. Anything else will be somewhere in the drivetrain.

Quite possibly. It's a 24 year old car so it is very likely to have slack in the top and bottom axle ball joints (not detected on an MoT unless done by someone that knows how to check them), Panhard rod bushes and radius arm bushes. Any of which can cause the steering to pull one way or the other. £1,000 is about right for top and bottom ball joints as even experienced LR mechanics don't like doing them as they can be a real pig to get the old ones out.

A noisy diff is also a sign that it is getting worn and will need to be replaced sooner or later. You may well have damaged it when the front propshaft let go.

Only EAS goes through the one behind the LHS kick panel so that won't affect any of the other systems. The ABS relay is a strange dual contact one that can handle the high current but IIRC the has a different in layout so can't be swapped with a standard relay.

No, even the description in RAVE isn't strictly correct. If you look at the diagram, the single pressure switch connects the HEVAC to the engine ECU which then sends a signal to the fusebox to bring in relay 18, the AC control relay, which turns on the condenser fans at slow speed.

From the Nanocom HEVAC document:
Air conditioning grant: When the A/C button is pressed an active low signal is output to the engine management ECU (The Request). This then looks at factors like engine temperature, load, current acceleration etc. and according to when these conditions allow, grant Air conditioning. This involves it engaging the clutch to drive the Air Conditioning pump, altering its internal fuelling to compensate for the load imposed by the pump, managing along with the Hevac, the Condenser fans, and also telling the Hevac that Air Conditioning has been granted. (even though the AC is on all the time EXCEPT when the button is pressed.....

Looking at that, you are seeing the AC Grant signal but from where? HEVAC or GEMS ECU? It appears that the HEVAC needs to send a request to the ECU which then sends the AC Grant signal as long as the ECU is happy for that to happen which then causes the HEVAC to send 12V out on the compressor clutch from pin 7. That means it won't try to engage the clutch if the engine isn't running or if it is running very hot and adding extra load wouldn't be a good idea. It isn't clear which is which but pins 28 and 29 on the GEMS ECU are the two that deal with the AC, so one will be looking for a ground from the HEVAC (the request), while the other puts out the Grant. The two connections at the HEVAC that go to these two pins are on the Black/Grey wire from pin 13, C246B and a Yellow/Black from pin 8 of C244 (which has the single pressure switch in line with it). However, even that isn't clear as the diagram shows the pressure switch to be open at less than 13 bar and closed at above 17 bar so at static pressure (without the compressor running) the pressure would be down at around 8 bar????

The trinary switch contains two separate switches, hence it having 5 wires to it. One is a single on/off switch which is the one that causes relays 13 and 14 to engage and put the fans on high speed if the pressure gets up to 21 bar. The other switch within it is the 3 way switch which is open circuit if pressure is below 2.4 bar or above 30 bar. So it won't allow the clutch to engage if the refrigerant is low or if it is over-pressuring.

The evaporator going down to 1C is too low and it will almost certainly ice up, that will cause the pressure to increase pretty dramatically which is why the clutch is dropping out. I suspect ice will be forming on the outside of the Low side (thick) pipe and the high side (thinner) pipe will be too hot to touch. When running normally, the evaporator temperature should go down no lower than 4C, at which point the compressor clutch will drop out until the temperature gets up to around 6-7C when it will kick in again.

I'm not even sure why I looked at the temperature gauge as it never moves no matter how long it is idling. I seem to have a habit of driving on bits of road that are about to be closed in front of me. I sat in one queue for almost 2 hours a few weeks ago and wondered if the temperature gauge was working as it hadn't moved so pulled the Nano out and checked it. 93C is the highest I've ever seen, with normal running at 87-89C.

Check fuse 27 as that provides power to the ABS ECU, whie Maxi fuse 3 (the middle one) supplies the ABS pump.

You need a replacement HEVAC. The fans should run at low speed when the compressor clutch is in and only go to high speed when the pressure in the AC system gets too high. The power to the relay from the Black/Yellow wire on pin 7 should only be there when AC Grant is showing Yes. That is what controls the clutch to stop the system being over-pressurised. With it having a permanent 12V on it, that feature has been removed.

That link is useful. My heater pipe sensor died, or it would read correct when cold or hot, but while heating up it would go to -40C. I found they are NLA but from a post on rr.net, that said it needed a 22k thermistor, I did the same as described in that link. Only to find that it read very low. Added a 10k resistor in parallel and it reads something like sensible so the heater works as it should but not correct. That link shows a 10k thermistor being used so it looks like I'll be changing mine.

It was embarrassed about being seen with lesser cars at Lidl. If it isn't working mechanically, I'd suggest replacing the door latch asap.

Original engine but rebuilt with top hat liners at 287,500. Heads are still the originals. Gearbox was replaced at 454,185 as it lost all drive but that actually turned out to be the torque converter. Both diffs replaced at some point, all wheel bearings are original. Brake discs have been replaced about 4 times though......

Isn't it +11 hours time difference? If you posted at 8am on the 7th Dec, the site shows it as 20:56 on the 6th. So 23:06 on the 29th December here would be 10:06 on the 30th for you as you are ahead of us.

Sounds like a plan to me, it'll be like the days of Lockdown when nobody was allowed out so had to entertain themselves somehow.

To be honest I thought it was the previous December. It was July 2014 when I was up in Glasgow for the Commonwealth Games and we were sitting in a pub when the idea of a virtual pub came after 5 or 6 pints of a rather nice, locally brewed, Commonwealth Ale as an antidote to RR.net.

But being very sad, I've just gone into my 2015 email inbox and sure enough, there's the email timed at 01:53 on 30/12/2015 with a link and the suggestion of having a play and seeing if I can break it (which I did, a mere 16 hours later).

From that tiny start of half a dozen or so in the first week, the memberlist now shows we are up to almost 10,000 members. A shame a large proportion are spammers or bots. Equally a shame that some of the original members, Orangebean, dave3d and Ferryman to name just a few that I am aware of, are no longer with us.

Got stuck in a stationary queue of traffic on the A1 today after a couple of cars had a coming together. You know how it is, after a couple of minutes sitting in Drive with your foot on the brake, you stick it in Park and just wait. Then the fire engine, ambulance and two police cars thread their way through the queue and you know you are likely to be there for a while. You idly look around at the other poor buggers sitting in the queue around you, wonder if you should open the can of drink in the car and then have a mental argument with yourself that while you might be getting thirsty, if you are going to be there for a while, you'll be bursting for a pee, so decide against it. HEVAC is showing 4 degrees so you keep the engine running and you glance at the dash to make sure the temperature gauge isn't starting to climb, then I noticed the odometer. I always reset it when I fill the LPG tank so I'd managed 33.3 miles of my 45 mile journey (with no exits off the A1 between me and the end on the red line on the satnav) but it was what the main display was showing that made me take a picture.....

gordonjcp wrote:

Do you want a public subforum set up for that? It's no bother...

Nah but as it's a virtual pub it should probably really be in Opening Time. The place for any random topic not specifically P38 related, just like any real pub.

The dipstick tube on my boat engine is fitted into the sump plug. It's on one side but near enough at the bottom of the sump. It's a solid plug with a threaded hole in the centre where the dipstick tube is fitted. So I can either unscrew the tube from the plug or, once I've done that, unscrew the whole plug. I reckon there is enough room under the engine to get a bowl under it which I can slide forwards out from under the engine if I take the bilge pump out (which sits just under the front of the engine. I've seen pictures of an arrangement where there is a tap instead of the drain plug and a length of hose which can be pushed through the drain hole in the transom which seems a much better idea to me.

Not sure about cooler running. My engine is a 4.3 litre Mercruiser V6 which is nothing more exotic than 3/4 of a 5.7 litre V8 small block Chevy and runs at around 170F. No idea what 170F works out to in proper units but as it is in the middle of the gauge, I assume it is correct. According to the engine manual, the oil pressure at 2,000 rpm should be 30-55 psi and more than 4 psi at idle. I'd be seriously worried if I saw oil pressure below 10 psi even at idle and mine sits at around 50 psi when running, dropping to 35 at idle when hot. So it must like the 15W-40 I've put in it.....

That's an odd one, never seen that before, as you say, the BeCM retains its settings when teh battery is disconnected. The only possibility I can think is you had an iffy connection at the OBD port which might explain the rapid relay operation as it connected then reconnected.

If you want the picture to appear in the post, click on the Image icon at the top of the box you are typing in (the one that looks like a picture frame) and a box will pop up asking for the picture hyperlink, paste the photo link in that box (making sure the https/:: already in the box is overwritten) and it will appear in the post. Like this.....

I use 15W-40 semi synthetic in my boat engine but it has roller cam followers rather than the flat tappets you have in yours. As it also have a fully rebuilt engine, there's no sludge in there either (although there was when I stripped it down). I suspect the biggest problem with boat engines is that very few have a sump plug, or anywhere to drain the oil into, so most just suck it out the dipstick tube if they actually bother to change the oil at all. My experience is that boat owners tend to treat an inboard engine as that black lump that lives under a cover in the back and gets totally neglected until it stops working.

For the P38, I have used Castrol 10W-60 synthetic on the advice of Ray at V8 Developments after he rebuilt the engine. The P38 workshop manual gives a list of LR recommended oils depending on ambient temperature.